Routes in Midlands for selected grade

Continue direct up the bald slab above the start of Thin Air to a finish just right of Piece of Mind.

Left of Puffed Up. Using the large obvious undercut and a couple hidden crimps from direct. Success or a potential back breaking landing awaits Please avoid using the obvious fragile bit of rock before the first rockover. Highball 7a+ and a potential modern classic.

Powerful moves up the sidewall lead to a harrowing exit.

From the top of the flake on Licence to Run continue straight up to the hanging crack above past seeming blankness.

P1, E6 6c the obvious white shield left of the bottom pitch of Blind faith. Climb up below the wall, arrange gear in the crack on the left, climb up and right via a peg using some very small crimps (avoiding the section out left) before going straight up to the ledge above. P2, E5/6 6a. From the ledge. Move out left and go up the loose groove to the sloping ledge above. Climb straight up via the hanging fang block, stuck wire, to a sloping shelf handhold, hidden peg round to the left in a groovelet, (rest round to the right) before steep moves lead up and left onto a perched slab and belay. P3, E4 5b, move up and left above the belay and arrange gear, before pulling straight up through the dry stone wall section. Above, step left to a shot hole with a crack (gear) before moving back up and right to finish straight up more easily. Possibly E7 for the full route.

The three dimensional slug-trail on the wall round right.

From the right-hand end of the long elongated slot, climb straight up the steep wall by hard pulls on pebbles and desperate friction. The landing is hard.

The arete on its right-hand side and the high slab above.

Climb the rounded arete by laybacking to good gear and a though-provoking mantelshelf finish

Finger traverse left from the with increasing difficulty (V5 to here) and pull into the leaning corner with great difficulty. Once established, finish easily.

A direct start to A Fist Full of Crystals, avoiding the use of the right-hand side slab.

The slab is bold and precarious. A side-runner (placed on route) may stop you repeating the first ascensionist's bouncing trick but then the route is only really worth E4.

Strange name, good route! The right side of the Elegy slab is at the limit of friction and the grade varies from E4 to E6 depending on how high you put the side runner in The Bulger. A wire in Elegy can also be used to reduce the swing potential.

From the tip of the Valkyrie flake, climb the wall past some useful flakes to a finish up the left arete. Wild and very reachy.

Horizontal offwidth crack.

From the junction of Pincer and Guano Gully, rock up onto the slab, and continue direct via a sustained sequence.

The impressive left arête of the Hawkwing buttress.

The hanging lower arete just right of the Headless Horseman traverse is reached via a very hard traverse from the right to the enticing pockets and a lovely balancy move to stand up in them. The arete above is much easier. Good cams under the roof protect (back-rope useful) and a very poor cam in the right-hand pocket just about serves for the rest.

Force a way into the hanging groove with great difficulty (and with overhead gear) then finish more easily through the shrubbery above.

Direct finish to Piece of Mind for those who find the easier/scarier rightward step to much to handle.

This route follows the central crack-line and is highly regarded for its quality. The upper half of the climb poses a considerable challenge.

#SD

Yet another silly eliminate, Climb Tree-mendous eliminating the shallow pocket. Take the small slanted crimp with your right hand, establish your left foot on a pebble of choice and crank to the jug.

Only slightly harder than the original line.