Routes in England for selected grade

Bridge anxiously up above the holly until a difficult step can be made right to a wide crack. Follow this to the top.

Bridge the leaning corner (without pushing too hard on the flake) and then step left to reach the rectilinear fissure, thankfully above the wide and potentially awkward lower section.

To the south (right) of the main West Face of Suspension Bridge Buttress is a much shorter buttress with much of its top section under black keep netting. There are three routes on the crag; this is the central one of the three.

A pleasant route that takes the wall right of the start of The Return of the Fencing Master, exiting as for that route. Starting at the short stepped rib just to the right of the two large rock anchors, climbing the wall above on the right using crystal pockets. At the ledge system step right and climb the clean wall (peg) enjoyably to a larger ledge. Gain the attractive groove 2m left and climb to the large bay, and move left (care needed with slippery netting underfoot) to join the final section of The Return of the Fencing Master. Traverse the ridge to a large tree and excellent stanchion.

Descent: Abseil of the tree (no strop fitted currently) or descend on foot via the keep netting and easy angled slabs to the south. Height

The crack starting behind a block.

Start at the holly. Swing left on to a ledge, then move left again to climb a corner leading to a roof. Sumount this and continue up an easier finishing crack.

Interesting! This variation avoids the hard section of the regular route by some speleological lunacy. Climb towards the slot beneath the boulders then get squirming. Helmet, harness and runners will all impede your progress.

Crack School No. 3 in BMC Definitive Guide

An airy route, initially straightforward, but increasingly challenging as it gains height. A good route at this grade, which is poorly represented in the Avon Gorge, and ideal for a Severe leader looking to improve their all-round skills. The rock is good, and the lower section of the route well protected. Start by abseiling from the tree at the top of Limbic Dystrophy to the capacious well-protected mid-way belay ledge of that route. From the belay ledge easily up the rightward-trending open groove to ledges, then follow the continuation groove with more interest and exposure until forced left onto narrow ledges. After arranging protection ascend the increasingly exposed and delicate right-trending continuation groove to the top. Belay at the tree.

To the right are several semi erect protrusions. The cannon is reached via the crack/grove.

The first chimney as you enter the cave.

a much attempted line that sees some epics. start below the cracks that point the way to the middle break in the upper overhang.