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Ascents in Wye Valley by Gavin

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Showing all 40 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Sun 26th Jul 2020 - Wynd cliff
HS 4b HS 4b Papillon Trad Good
There were some very interesting moves, marred by a confusing end

 
E1 5b E1 5b The Don Trad Classic
Very nice bridging. My guide has it at e2, but e1 is probably fairer.

 
HVS 5a HVS 5a Sinew Trad Classic
Great line and consistently interesting

 
VS 4b VS 4b Questor Trad Mega Classic
The mega classic for a reason, cool moves solid gear great position. Ukc might oversell it as one of the best vs in the country, but very worthwhile

 
Wed 1st Jul 2020 - Wintour's Leap
E1 5b E1 5b King Kong Trad 90m Classic
A great line with some great movement, seperated by some choss and vegetation. I still think the crux is the one stopper move in the second pitch

 
E3 6a E3 6a Kangaroo Wall Trad 90m Classic
A great line with some great movement, seperated by some choss and vegetation

 
Sun 8th Sep 2019 - Shorn cliff
Abbey Buttress
HVS 5a HVS 5a Tigers Don't Cry Trad 20m Classic
Came back for the tick, chill this time

 
E1 5b Social Criticism Trad 22m Good
E1 5b Side Effects Trad 23m Good
Sun 8th Sep 2019 - Shorn cliff
Tiger Bay
E2 5c E2 5c Touch the Fire Trad 21m Good
The start is spicy, but that doesn't really justify the grade

 
E2 5b E2 5b Pump It Up... Again Trad 17m Average
Came back to get it with crack gloves, those jams do hurt

 
Mon 22nd Jul 2019 - Wintour's Leap
VS 5a VS 5a Cheetah Trad Good
In drizzle the first pitch was hell. Muddy, slippery and uninspiring. The second, however has lovely moves on solid rock, can be runout, but its all there.

 
E3 5c E3 5c White Feather Trad 30m Classic
Hard and often psychological. The climbing is nice and reasonably protected.

 
E2 5c Yesterdays Dreams Trad 30m Classic
Followed this one. Really nice, equal difficulty to white feather, but maybe better protected.

 
Fri 19th Jul 2019 - Wintour's Leap
E1 5c E1 5c Wurlitzer Trad Very Good
Nice route, not an obvious line, but it all fits.

 
HVS 5a HVS 5a Dragonfly Trad Very Good
Follows obvious corner cracks. Could do with some cleaning, and there is actually less gear than you expect. Second pitch was lovely.

 
Thu 4th Jul 2019 - Wintour's Leap
7a Heil Hittler! Sport 65m Classic
Unexpectedly nice sport climbing

 
Thu 4th Jul 2019 - Ban-y-Gor
Mandela Sector
7b Nelson Mandela Sport Classic
Fantastic crux sequence takes some finding. The real climbing might be over quicker than you want, but it packs a punch in those meters. My first 7b.

 
6b+ Sperm Whales Sport Very Good
Tricky little climb makes you think, worth a go.

 
Thu 27th Jun 2019 - Symonds Yat
Hollow Stone Area
HVS 5a HVS 5a Red Rose Speedway Trad Classic
Lovely climb that takes some thought but its all there. Gear is all bomber.

 
HVS 5a HVS 5a The Russian Trad Good
Some nice moves, but very sketchy gear didnt inspire confidence as a warmuo

 
Sat 3rd Nov 2018 - Wintour's Leap
VS Johns Route Trad 60m Average
Used this to get out instead of going back up the easy way. It was a ramble with loose rock. Simul climbed, felt like a sketch solo.

 
E1 5b E1 5b King Kong Trad 90m Very Good
Not many cracks this sustained in the area. Wouldnt standup to the jamming in some places, but good for a fix.

 
Sat 29th Sep 2018 - Shorn cliff
Abbey Buttress
VS 4c VS 4c Alta Vista Trad 13m Very Good
Interesting for the grade

 
E1 5b E1 5b The Bone Trad 18m Very Good
Nice route which requires some thinking at the crux

 
HVS 5a HVS 5a Tigers Don't Cry Trad 20m Classic
Great route, but so so polished. Made it hard with my rubbish footwork

 
VD Acoustic Trad 22m Average
Sun 16th Sep 2018 - Shorn cliff
Great Central Cave Area
HVS 5a HVS 5a The Bitter Battle Tears Trad 26m Good
Generic, but quite long and decent. Good warmup

 
Sun 16th Sep 2018 - Shorn cliff
Tiger Bay
E1 5b E1 5b Motion Pictures Trad 23m Classic
So far the only climb here i thought was an actual 3*. well worth it.

 
E2 5c Touch the Fire Trad 21m Good
a little contrived and less good than the E1, still quite nice

 
E2 5b E2 5b Pump It Up... Again Trad 17m Average
Pulled a lot of rock off this, and hurt my hands to boot. not a classic crack

 
E1 5a Renaissance Trad 20m Good
nice few moves up the flowstone

 
Sun 22nd Apr 2018 - Wyndcliff Quarry
Upper Cliff
6b+ Hong Kong Wedding Sport 12m, 8 Good
Finale is almost great, but finishes before it gets started

 
6b+ Shin Gi Tai Sport 15m Classic
Lovely route, some technical moves and nice movement, worth a shot

 
7a+ Hoodoo Magic Sport 12m Good
Easy start, the real climbing is only 3m long. But they are tough damn meters.

 
6a+ Chepstow Killer Appliances Sport 10m Good
Not bad

 
6a 6a+ THE END Sport 10m Average
average warm up

 
Thu 19th Apr 2018 - Wintour's Leap
VS 4c VS 4c Butterfly Trad Very Good
Nice and Chill line

 
VS 4c VS 4c African Killer Bee Trad Very Good
VS 4c VS 4c Freedom Trad 30m Classic
Better and scarier than the other VSs. The hand traverse gets the blood flowing even if its within your grade

 

Showing all 40 ascents.

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