Routes in Third Sister Area

Start in the centre of the crag, climb an ivy choked groove on big jugs to a hole at 12m (needs recleaning). Move up and right to a bulge and pocket. Step up and extend for finger jugs slightly out left. Step right, reach a crack above the top bulge and cut loose for the top.

Brilliant on almost perfect rock. Start below a short crack on the right-hand side of the crag. Go up the crag to a shallow bulge. Stride left over a smooth slab then pull over a small overhang after a projecting foothold. Climb the waterworn face above to the top bulge and yard up on jugs out right to the exit.

Cracks on R side of crag, very small wire on the crux.

The groove/chimney which bounds the left side of the main part of the cliff.

Committing. To the right of Standing Guard is a second rightward-facing groove (Sundrench). Climb the wall just left of the groove, but step left to the centre of a bulge. Use a good undercut to stretch for a jug and pull nervously up to a small grey slab. Take the crack leftwards to finish up poor rock.

Start as for Windworn, but continue directly to a TR at 7m, then step left and surmount the bulge. Continue up the cracks and groove above.

Follows the right-facing groove. As for Snowstorm to the steep grey wall barring entry to the groove, pull right into the groove and climb up the right wall to the top.

The brutish bulge right of the groove of Sundrench. Take poor rock to the widest part of the ledge beneath the concave stratum. Arrange gear, including a crucial Rock 5 in a pocket over the lip. Now move over onto the face. Step up right into a very slim groove and right again into a more obvious one, leading to the top.

Start 3m right of The Ram of Radyr and climb to a bulge. Move left and then make a sustained series of moves up to a poor PR under the roof. Move over the roof and onto the slabby wall above then move left to gain a ledge. Continue up the cracked wall above to the top.

The arête to the right of Beth. Climb direct to small ledges beneath a bulge. Reach over to finger pockets, TR, then climb rightwards on undercuts to a hidden jug near the arête. Follow thin cracks in the arête above to finish.

The saving grace of the crag. Takes the leaning groove right of Where East Meets West and left of Insatiable Appetite. From the concave stratum pull up the rib, PR, into the groove, PR and reach the top passing a 'sexy hand spike'.

Climb the wall 3m right of Insatiable Appetite passing an overlap to reach small ledges. Take the easier groove above to the top. Committing and high in the grade.

Start 3m right of Don't Tell Anne below an obvious square-cut overhang at the top of the crag. Climb a wall until a move can be made leftward to a groove below the overhang. Continue up the groove at its right side.

The obvious diagonal line from the start of Honey to the groove of Insatiable Appetite.

Climb the vague grooves just right of Honey.

Start well to the right of Sugar, where the concave strata meets the ground. Climb the shallow yellow groove and then move rightwards into the groove above.

Climb the cracked wall just right of 50 Franc Menu.

The short broken groove on the far right of the crag.

Start 4m left of the snaking crack at a tiny niche at 2m. Move up to place good wires in an incipient crackline, then make fingery moves right to a little black scoop. Swing left to a break, surmount the bulge above, PR and continue to a crack. Take the crack to the top, taking care with the exit move.

A pump out taking the bulging rib overhanging the start of Sister of Mercy. Follow Sister of Mercy to a jug 1m above the first PR. Break out right with difficulty to vertical cracks in the rib. Climb the rib on its right side, exiting slightly right over a bulge.

The rib to the right of South East Wall. Pull straight over the bulge and step immediately left to reach a thin flake crack. Climb the rib to the traverse of South East Wall and finish with difficulty.

Continue from the belay on the grass terrace

Climb loose rock left of the fin of rock at the left side of the crag.

From the ledge at the start of Barney Rubble, swing right round the arête to the obvious groove of South Wall. Move up and stretch left to the fin edge. Climb the right side to the top. An obvious, but disappointing route.

Gain the groove of South Wall as for Finnmark, but continue as for South Wall itself.

Might be worth a star if it was trundled at the start. Start at the right edge of the ledge running across the start of the wall proper. Make a leftward-rising traverse to reach the corner crack and follow this to a ledge. Finish through the small overlap above the groove.

Supersedes an earlier indirect route, Harrow (P.Kokelaar, G.Williams 1969). Climb the lower slabs just right of the start of South Wall, via a slanting crack line to gain the overhangs. Overcome these to gain the top.

This takes a line of slabs and grooves 2m right of South Wall.

Start as for Topless Admirers, then finish up the obvious grooves further right.

Start at the left end of the broken ledge running beneath the wall. Take the obvious leftward-rising overlap to gain a shallow hanging groove, TR. Finish directly on flakes up the leaning wall.

Start as for Sister Bliss, then follow an intermittent crack on honeycombed rock right of a grey flake. Proceed directly on flakes up the unlikely wall above to the top, avoiding premature escapes into the groove on the right.

Take the concave slab (sic) above the middle of the ledge beneath the wall. Follow a very slight, overhanging flake a little leftwards onto the slab. Go directly up from an undercut onto the easier angled slab, keeping just left of the groove on the right. Exit with care.

Follows the groove to the left of Pot Boiler. Worthless. Climb the groove as for Seeing Beyond the Drill, but instead of traversing right under the steeper rock continue straight up the chossy groove.

Up To The prominent pocket, then slightly rightwards up to the top RH corner of the crag. Lowered off a hanging rope. The gear was good, but very fiddly to place and easy to miss if not abseil inspected.