Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
{FR} 6a+ | ★★ Reptile Smile | 22m | Portland | ||
E1 UKT:5b | ★★★ Flying Buttress Direct
FA: D. Lomas, 1956 FFA: Paul Grey, 1966 | 20m | Stanage | ||
E1 UKT:5b | ★★★ The Left Unconquerable
| 17m | Stanage | ||
HVS UKT:5b | ★★★ Great Portland Street | 21m | Millstone Edge | ||
E1 UKT:5b | ★★★ The Arrow
The right trending crack line on the front of the buttress. Around the rooflet to the right near the top. Awesome position, consistent climbing the whole pitch with excellent protection. FA: P Whillance & D Armstrong, 1977 | 39m | Pembroke | ||
E1 UKT:5b | ★★ Embankment 3
1
E1 5b
16m
2
5b
14m
FA: Ed Drummond, 1975 | 30m, 2 | Millstone Edge | ||
{FR} 6a+ | ★★ Pregnant Pause | 30m | Portland | ||
E1 UKT:5b | ★★★ The Plum
One long mixed pitch with many different styles. FA: R James & D Yates, 1961 | 50m | Tremadog Area | ||
E1 UKT:5b | ★★ Embankment 4 | 30m | Millstone Edge | ||
6a+ | ★ Stonemason
| 18m, 4 | Swanage | ||
{FR} 6a+ | ★★ A life of Grime
The centre of the wall is nice and sustained with the odd reachy move. Pumpy | 14m | Peak District Limestone | ||
HVS UKT:5b | ★★★ Congo Corner
FA: Peter Biven, 1954 | 24m | Stanage | ||
E1 UKT:5b | ★★★ Gogarth
1
E1 4b
18m
2
5a
18m
3
4b
18m
4
4c
20m
5
5b
32m
The first route established on Main Cliff - historic! FA: B Ingle & M Boysen, 1964 | 110m, 5 | Anglesey | ||
6a+ | ★★ Long Layback
Lay-back up the crack in the corner. There's a tree-root at the base of the crack, and the start is somewhat polished. | 8m | Kent | ||
E1 UKT:5b | ★★★ Manzouku
FFA: K Wilkinson & S Jones, 1978 | 36m | Pembroke | ||
6a+ | ★★ Consomme | Portland | |||
HVS UKT:5b | ★★★ The Peapod
FA: Joe Brown | 18m | Curbar Edge | ||
6a+ | ★★ Unseen Ripples of the Pebble
| 12m, 5 | Swanage | ||
HVS UKT:5b | ★★ Suicide Wall
FA: Peter Harding & Veronica Lee, 1946 | 28m | Peak District Limestone | ||
E1 UKT:5b | ★★★ Long Tall Sally | Burbage Valley | |||
E2 UKT:5b | ★★★ The Strand | 49m | Anglesey | ||
E2 UKT:5b | ★★ Clean Hand Blues Band
FA: S Bancroft & B Newman, 1980 | 24m | Pembroke | ||
E2 UKT:5b | ★★ Brown's Eliminate | 16m | Froggatt Edge | ||
{FR} 6a+ | ★ The Lizard of Oz
FA: Jan Rostron & Pete Oxley, 1995 | Portland | |||
E1 UKT:5b | ★★ The Link
| 22m | Stanage | ||
E1 UKT:5b | ★★★ Cemetery Gates
1
E1 5b
34m
2
4c
18m
FA: J Brown & D D Whillans, 1951 | 52m, 2 | Llanberis Valley Area | ||
VS UKT:5b | ★★ The Direct Route | 74m, 4 | Llanberis Valley Area | ||
6a+ | ★ Brean Dream
Move up the initially technical wall to an easing. Continue slightly leftwards to a lower-off well below the top of the crag. Info taken from the Rockfax 'West Country Climbs' topo FA: F Haden, GA Jenkin, E Heslam & S Cook, 1995 | 13m | Brean Down | ||
HVS UKT:5b | ★★ Leaning Buttress Direct
| 16m | Stanage | ||
{FR} 6a+ | ★★ Talk
| Portland | |||
HVS UKT:5b | ★★ The Flange
| 15m | Stanage | ||
E1 UKT:5b | ★★ Dexterity | 20m | Millstone Edge | ||
E1 UKT:5b | ★★ Millsom's Minion
| 24m | Stanage | ||
HVS UKT:5b | ★★★ Looning the Tube
FA: C Phillips, 1984 | 20m | Llanberis Valley Area | ||
E1 UKT:5b | ★★ Seams the Same | 20m | Llanberis Valley Area | ||
HVS UKT:5b | ★★ Eliminator
| 15m | Stanage | ||
E1 UKT:5b | ★★★ Cool for cats
FFA: C Connick & D Hughes, 1979 | 36m | Pembroke | ||
6a+ | ★ Definitely Maybe | Portland | |||
E2 UKT:5b | ★★ The Big Crack | 15m | Froggatt Edge | ||
{FR} 6a+ | ★★ Orangutang Overhang
The left line through the roof FA: Ian Lloyd-Jones, P Targett & T Hughes, 2007 | 12m | Llanberis Valley Area | ||
E1 UKT:5b | ★★★ east face route | 140m | Orkney Isles | ||
E1 UKT:5b | ★★ Grim Wall Direct | 54m, 2 | Tremadog Area | ||
E1 UKT:5b | ★★ Easter Rib
| 15m | Stanage | ||
6a+ | ★★ Devaluation
The middle section of the face features a well-liked and attention-grabbing route that utilises the cut-out pockets, which may not be as impressive as they initially seem. | 12m | Kent | ||
{FR} 6a+ | ★ Lifeline
| Portland | |||
6a+ | ★★ Slab Direct
Step onto the large foothold, then go directly up on slopers. | 8m | Kent | ||
E1 UKT:5b | ★★ Strapiombante | 8m | Froggatt Edge | ||
{FR} 6a+ | ★★ Think About It
A technical route that (approximately) follows a series of cracks while offering up some thought provoking sequences. Knowing how to jam will help. FA: Kevin Turner, 1977 | 12m | Swanage | ||
E1 UKT:5b | ★★ Great Peter | 20m | Lawrencefield Quarry | ||
E1 UKT:5b | ★★ The Mississippi Variant Direct
| 22m | Stanage | ||
E1 UKT:5b | ★★ Breaking the Barrier
| 26m | Anglesey | ||
{FR} 6a+ | ★ THE END
V Grove to ledge then up. | 10m | Wyndcliff Quarry | ||
E1 UKT:5b | ★ Two-sided Triangle | 10m | Froggatt Edge | ||
E2 UKT:5b | ★★★ Tower Face Direct
| 25m | Stanage | ||
E1 UKT:5b | ★★ L'Horla
| 10m | Curbar Edge | ||
{FR} 6a+ | ★★ Stalker's Zone
Top 50 climb. Pumpy. Face climb. Start at left leaning corner under overhang. Finish up flake-crack. FA: Pete Oxley, 1989 | 30m | Portland | ||
{FR} 6a+ | ★★ Fun in the Sun
Due to recent rockfall from the cliff above, this route now cannot be climbed safely. | 14m | Peak District Limestone | ||
{FR} 6a+ | ★ Sometimes I Won't Thrill You
| 15m | Wyndcliff Quarry | ||
E1 UKT:5b | ★★ Kirkus's Corner
| 16m | Stanage | ||
{FB} 5 | ★ Bogside Flakes
| 4m | Stanage | ||
6a+ | ★★ Rusty the Redneck Takes One for the Team | Portland | |||
{FR} 6a+ | ★★ Darkness Falling
Climb the corner groove and continue up the slab | 12m | Lowland Outcrops | ||
6a+ | ★ Resin Devotion
| 13m, 5 | Swanage | ||
6a/a+ | ★ The Railway Children
Fifth line of bolts after the slab. FA: Josie Ball, 2008 | 10m, 7 | Llanberis Valley Area | ||
E3 UKT:5b | ★★★ Great Slab (Froggatt)
Starting from the left-hand end of the main slab, move up good edges until standing in the middle of the slab proper. Prepare yourself for the moves right, the "piano playing" foot traverse, and reach the far ledge. Take a deep breath, and head up and right with the first being the only tricky move. FA: Joe Brown | 18m | Froggatt Edge | ||
E1 UKT:5b | ★ Mani
| Peak District Limestone | |||
E1 UKT:5b | ★★★ Bella lugosi is dead | 28m | Llanberis Valley Area | ||
E1 UKT:5b | ★★ The Tippler
| 20m | Stanage | ||
E2 UKT:5b | ★★★ The Rasp
FA: Joe Brown. 1956. | 14m | Higgar Tor | ||
E2 UKT:5b | ★★ Kayak
| 8m | Curbar Edge | ||
6a+ | ★ T.T.
Ascend the wall situated to the left of the crack left of the arete of Pig's Nose. The climb concludes by finishing on the overhang with the two vertical grooves, located one meter to the left of the Pig's Nose finish. | 12m | Kent | ||
E1 UKT:5b | ★★ The Bludgeon
| 54m | Borrowdale | ||
{FR} 6a+ | ★★ Evening Falls | Portland | |||
{FR} FB_ALT:5 | KBHR | Burbage Valley | |||
{FR} 6a+ | ★★ Aim High, Shoot Low | Portland | |||
E1 UKT:5b | ★★★ Raindrop
1
E1 5b
15m
2
5a
27m
3
5b
33m
4
4c
15m
FA: P Livesey & J Sheard, 1973 | 90m, 4 | Borrowdale | ||
{FB} 5 | ★ Pock (Pock Block) | 3m | Burbage Valley | ||
E1 UKT:5b | ★★★ Z Climb Eliminate | 14m | Almscliff | ||
E2 UKT:5b | ★★ Yosemite Wall
| 16m | Stanage | ||
HVS UKT:5b | ★★ Rugosity Crack
| 9m | Stanage | ||
E1 UKT:5b | ★★ Midnight Cruiser
| 36m | Fair Head | ||
6a+ | ★★ Grant's Crack
Tackle the difficult beginning of the crack-line on this wall, employing a range of techniques to navigate it. | 9m | Kent | ||
E1 UKT:5b | ★★ Om
| 9m | Peak District Limestone | ||
6a+ | ★ E.S. Cadet Nose
Following a challenging start, ascend the arete primarily on its right-hand side while refraining from touching Cave Crack when reaching its midpoint. Incorporating a sit-start and concluding the climb at the central break will result in a difficulty rating of f6B. | 12m | Kent | ||
E2 UKT:5b | ★★ Vice Is Nice
FA: S Bancroft & B Newman, 1980 | 24m | Pembroke | ||
6a+ | ★ Dark Chimney Buttress
There's some ambiguity about which holds are in. Well, all the holds are fair game and the route is great. | 10m | Kent | ||
{FR} 6a+ | ★ Idiot Village
FA: Mike Robertson, 1993 | 12m | Swanage | ||
6a+ | ★ One Tooth Short of a Smile
Go direct following the line of 5 bolts before completing an easy traverse to the lower off of 'Still Stuck on You'. FA: 2006 | 10m, 6 | Wyndcliff Quarry | ||
E1 UKT:5b | ★★★ Great Buttress Arete | 12m | Wharncliffe Crag | ||
{FR} 6a+ | ★★ Coming Unstuck | Portland | |||
{FR} 6a+ | Wake Up, Time to Die | 10m | Portland | ||
E1 UKT:5b | ★★ Jeepers Creepers
| 15m | Stanage | ||
E1 UKT:5b | ★ Gundabad
A couple of meters to the right of Gondolin climb directly up through pockets on the face. Once you reach a ledge at half height traverse left into the corner as for Gondolin | 20m | Goblin Combe | ||
E1 UKT:5b | ★★★ Debauchery
One of the top ten E1's in the country, it can be forgiven for the odd bit of polish here and there. the route crosses some remarkable ground with hidden jugs, ample protection and bags of exposure. Best to back up any old pitons you decide to clip. FFA: Pete Livesey, 1967 | 45m, 2 | Peak District Limestone | ||
HVS UKT:5b | ★★ August Arete
| 14m | Stanage | ||
{FB} 5 | Trackside 5
| Curbar Edge | |||
6a+ | Ideal World | Swanage | |||
V1 | ★ Upper Cube Traverse
| 4m | Stanage | ||
{FB} 5 | ★★ Mini Prow
| Curbar Edge | |||
E1 UKT:5b | ★★ King Kong
1
E1 5b
40m
2
E1 5a
40m
3
10m
Marked start in a corner with obvious rockfall. Nice sustained jamming, considered a classic of the grade. | 90m, 3 | Wintour's Leap |