Routes in Sweden for selected grade

Huvudväggen

Start just to the right of the groove, keep left into the groove, through the small roof in the narrow inner corner, finish on the slab. One of the longest route on the crag.

Shared start with 'Lata människor (gör sig inte besvär)'. Right exit

Shares last bolt and anchor with Bussiga Leffe.

Bolted technical slab route

Originally one of the four 6- ultra classics in Bohuslän. Some years ago a big section of stone came of, and now considered harder than 6-.

Start at the obvious crack up to first ledge. Traverse a bit left and up to the large diagonal crack. Follow the crack or 2m and then follow vertical crack to the top.

1st route left side of main wall.

Extension of Rampage. 5c and 6a+ ext. Good climbing on a bit crunch rock. Bring a lot of draws.

Renovated and fully bolted 2022 by Mikael Widerberg.

Up to the first bolt is the hardest part, watch out for the small drop on the right.

One of the best routes in ågelsjön for its grade. Great climbing on good holds, a bird has built a nest some years on the shelf in the middle of the route.

Surprisingly pumpy for the grade, overhanging with big, rounded holds, good rock. It's possible to belay and pull the rope down without getting it wet - the trick is for the belayer to clip into the bolt on a long sling so they can lean back and catch the end of the rope. (From the anchor there is a perfect tiny ledge to jump from into the deep water if you wish).

Loose rock. First bolt missing.

Short but good route on perfect rock. Start in 'Rasputin' (Left of the birtch) and traverse to the right after ~3m. Originally gear in the start now with a bolt in the start.

One of the most popular routes of the crag. It's tempting to escape to the right on the shelf but following the arête as much as possible up to the top slab is a nicer climb.

Continues straight up from Ankarolina then left above roof to share anchor with Absolut.

Bolted anchor

Hand crack

Shares anchor with Pannkakstårtan.

Same start as Skörbjugg but straight up from 1st bolt.

Starts in "Stöldförsök", traverses under the roof and goes up in the dihedral. A common variant is to start 2 m to the right and climb it as a pure sport route. Bolted anchor.

Almost sport. A nut behind the flake in the start (or clip-stick the first bolt).

Bolted anchor with with easy access from above.

New route second from right on the wall. Climb to first anchor.

Start in 'Skål' and exit right.

Rebolted and extended 2019

Very difficult start, harder than the grade itself. Two #1 rocks secures the start after the very tricky overhang start (not using the tree). Once under the first roof you get 1-2 bomber aliens (green & white). Thereafter, you can protect every inch, if you like,while jamming/laybacking.

same start as "Blå Lotus", finishes to the left anchor.

40a "Halls Hammare": variant that goes right after the first bolt, 6b/6b+.