Balmashanner Quarry Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

alonsoATCO Duncan Gunn

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

1. Balmashanner Quarry 22 in Crag
2. Index by grade

1. Balmashanner Quarry 22 routes in Crag

Summary:

Seasonality

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 56.626232, -2.890761

summary

Hard sport climbing area near Forfar. Slow to dry after winter seepage.

description

Slow to dry after winter seepage. Most climbs well protected, short (15m) and enjoyable, although somewhat intense.

approach

Park on the road sign posted as Glecoe Cottage. Try not to block any access on approach track. Follow the road to a right turn that becomes a footpath. After a few meters, cross over the barbwire fence on the left and walk doen the crag which would be clearly in view.

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Syes Don't Matter	{FR} 6b	Sport
2	Sye of Relief	{FR} 6b+	Sport
3	Firestarter	{FR} 6a+	Sport 12m
4	Delivery Man	{FR} 7a+	Sport
5	Start the Fire	{FR} 6b+	Sport 12m
6	Digital Sclerosis	{FR} 7b+	Sport
7	Digital Sclerosis there and back	{FR} 7c+	Sport
8	Made to Suffer	{FR} 7b+	Sport
9	★★★ Savage Amusement	{FR} 7b	Sport
10	★★ Putting Shame in your Game	{FR} 7c	Sport
11	★ Manifestations The thin wall which leads directly into the massive flake of Rat Attack.	{FR} 7b	Sport
12	Rat Attack Starts right of Manifestation and finishes on the same line.	{FR} 6c+	Sport
13	★ Tales of Creation	{FR} 8a	Sport
14	★ Hell Bent for Lycra	{FR} 6c+	Sport 13m
15	★ Le Von Vacance	{FR} 7a	Sport
16	★ Half the Battle	{FR} 7a	Sport 14m
17	★ The Comfort Machine Follow the first 3 bolts of Half the Battle, then traverse right for 2 more bolts to another anchor.	{FR} 6c+	Sport 14m
18	Off the Couch	{FR} 6c	Sport
19	★★ Gravity's Rainbow	{FR} 8a	Sport
20	★★★ The Niche	{FR} 8a+	Sport
21	Merchant of Menace	{FR} 6b	Sport
22	Balmashanner Buttress	{FR} 4c	Sport

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style
4c		Balmashanner Buttress	Sport
6a+		Firestarter	Sport 12m
6b		Merchant of Menace	Sport
		Syes Don't Matter	Sport
6b+		Start the Fire	Sport 12m
		Sye of Relief	Sport
6c		Off the Couch	Sport
6c+	★	Hell Bent for Lycra	Sport 13m
		Rat Attack	Sport
	★	The Comfort Machine	Sport 14m
7a	★	Half the Battle	Sport 14m
	★	Le Von Vacance	Sport
7a+		Delivery Man	Sport
7b	★	Manifestations	Sport
	★★★	Savage Amusement	Sport
7b+		Digital Sclerosis	Sport
		Made to Suffer	Sport
7c	★★	Putting Shame in your Game	Sport
7c+		Digital Sclerosis there and back	Sport
8a	★★	Gravity's Rainbow	Sport
	★	Tales of Creation	Sport
8a+	★★★	The Niche	Sport