Ascents in Scotland

FFA. I spent a couple of days cleaning and working this, trundled lots of teetering blocks that ended up becoming crucial fingerlocks and sidepulls. The moment I finished the prep cloud came with heavy rain. I felt so ready and committed for the route I cracked on anyway. Fortunately the crux holds and gear where dry, second half of the route was a waterfall. 😂 10m of insecure stemming on dripping lichen was tenuous work, what an adventure! Had lots of ground support from the fellas.

Couple of rest days on a rope sussing moves and gear and it went! Rad! Definitely not 6c unless perhaps on the onsight.

Couple of working sessions, it definitely goes! Linked from the ground rope soloing placing gear. Keen to tie in for the redpoint.

Seconding Sev after I down climb retreated from mid height in the roof. Contending with loose rock rattly gear and seep on the lower headwall felt too risky for me. Sev led on the nest of gear I placed low down, cruised the movement lower down finding an easier sequence than I did. He pulled off a microwave size magic block from the roof and trundled several kilos of moss off the top. Otherwise smooth, 15m off good climbing with 10m of sketchy unprotected moss soloing to the top.

Warm up, great!

Very cool problem, improbably perfect pockets with some bold balancey dead points. Easily the highlight of the day!

So many aretes on the torridonian sandstone, not sure which one I did but Sev reckons it's around V5. Hard!

Got lost partway up & made it much harder and more exposed (but also more fun) than it needed to be. Lead p1 & p3 (crux where I traversed too low). Felt more like S or VS with getting lost.

Free solo

Blew the onsight miss reading the moves over the lip, second go. 😊

Mike's first trad second, great funky, pumpy movement. An easy one to punt off in the sun. Sev soloed it to try find his shirt on the top, which turned up in my bag. 😂

Awesome

Nasty start

Alternate leads onsight, sev took the harder pitch which ended up being soft for 6b and well protected. I led the 6a pitch which turned out to be quite runout and dangerous. Classic alpine granite, funky movement with spectacular exposure in wild positions! The crux was reading movement with the gardens of moss and lichen on the holds. A stellar day in the mountains!

Blew the onsight after clipping the insitu nut lower down, second go. Probably the most enjoyable climb of the day!

Top is great, bottom is average. Came in from a jug on the left, felt easy at the grade.

Climbed on sev's gear, had a fiddly time replacing the top runner protecting the slab. Crux is getting the gear in, moves weren't too bad.

Seconding Sev, lovely flowy moves with good holds where you need them. Had a bit of assistance from the rope on the lower boulder problem that was balanced out by an unintended crux of the rope almost yarding me out of the next two roofs and traverse

4 more goes falling at the same spot, lacking the compression power endurance I think.

Following sevs proud onsight, crux felt much easier with good beta!

Blew the onsight faffing on the boulder problem down the bottom. Second go, absolutely sensatonal line.

Warm up, dope! Felt like a solo for the first 10m.

Flash go leading on sevs gear, one rest. Promising!