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Routes in Valkyrie Area

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Showing all 19 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
E1 5b Crack of Gloom Trad 20m
VS Raven rock Gully Left hand Trad
D Raven Rock Gully Trad
VS 4c Swinger

The steep and neglected crack in the right wall of the gully leads to the upper section of Via Dolorosa.

Trad 20m
E5 6a Sidewinder

A devious oddity that grapples with the left-hand edge of the great roof. From the base of the crack of Swinger, ape right and climb a groove to a possible stance under the giant overhang. A flake on the left leads past the lip then stretch right, passing a flake, to climb the arete.

Trad 24m
VS 4c Via Dolorosa Trad 33m
S 4a Via Dolorosa Variations

Starts on the higher ledge to the right and finishes up the dark and slippery Raven Rock Gully. Best split into 2 pitches otherwise rope drag may be a problem.

Trad 2
HVS 5b Matinée
1 HVS 5a 15m
2 5b 8m

FA: Joe Brown & Don Whillans, 1951

Trad 23m, 2
HVS 5b Matinee Alternative Finish

Below the bulge at the top of Matinee follow the break out right on jams and thin feet to finish up the offwidth

Trad
E4 6a Manatee

From the large chockstone in Matinee, venture out left and up to a hidden jug, then finish more easily up the wing shaped flutes to the top.

Trad 14m
HVS 5b Valkyrie Direct

A long and elegant pitch up the steep jamming cracks in the arete. Climb the crack and the bulges to a rest at the base of the flake on the regular climb. Finish as for the normal route, or via the tricky bulging short-cut crack just right of the arete.

Trad 28m
VS 4c Valkyrie Trad 2
VS 4c Valkyrie
1 VS 4b 15m
2 4c 23m

Traditional hard Grit VS. Not for the novice or faint-hearted VS leader.

FA: Peter Harding & A Bowden Black, 1946

Trad 38m, 2
HS 4b Valkyrie Corner

Follow the initial corner of Valkyrie right to the top.

Trad
HS 4c Valkyrie Corner Flake Variant

Start 1m right of Valkyrie Corner, climb direct and trend right up the large flake rather than staying left in the corner. Finish route as normal.

Trad
E6 6c Northern Comfort

From the tip of the Valkyrie flake, climb the wall past some useful flakes to a finish up the left arete. Wild and very reachy.

Trad 14m
E5 6b Licence to Kill

From the top of the flake on Licence to Run continue straight up to the hanging crack above past seeming blankness.

FA: Gary Cooper, 2000

Trad 22m
E4 6a Licence to Run

The right-trending flakes in the wall above the Valkyrie stance are pumpy though good gear is available if you can stop!

Trad 12m
E4 6a Licence to Lust

A counter-diagonal across the wall, utilising the same holds and runners in the central section at License to Run.

Trad 12m

Showing all 19 routes.

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