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The Peabody Boulders Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Christian Schultz joe tynan Jake Forker Eric Foltz Luke Stefurak Henry Harley Mills

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. The Peabody Boulders 88 routes in Area

Summary:
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F
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Seasonality

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 37.328778, -118.574777

1.1. Grandpa Peabody 13 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 37.328196, -118.574773

description

A huge boulder holding some of the best and most recognised highball boulders in the world

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Transporter Room V5 Boulder
2 Cave Problem V4 Boulder
3 La Belette V11 Boulder
4 Rastaman Vibration V12 Boulder 49ft
5 Evilution

FFA: Jason Kehl

FA: Jason Kehl

V12 R Boulder 52ft
6 Evilution To the Lip V10 Boulder
7 Evilution Direct V11 Boulder
8 Unnamed V9 Boulder
9 East Arete 5.10+ X Boulder
10 Advanced Rockcraft Arete 5.8 X Boulder
11 Ambrosia

One of the most famous highballs on the planet

V11 X Boulder 43ft
12 Lucid Dreaming

First ascent by Paul Robinson, who initially graded it 8C+ (V16), and later downgraded it. In 2010, together with The game, this was considered to be one of the world's most challenging boulders. Second ascent by Daniel Woods, who confirmed the 8C (V15) grade.

FFA: Paul Robinson

FA: Paul Robinson

V15 Boulder 49ft
13 The Process

The proudest and most obvious line on the classic Grandpa Peabody boulder.

FA: Daniel Woods, 15 Jan 2015

V16 Boulder

1.2. Grandma Peabody 23 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 37.328364, -118.574786

summary

Amazing highball bouldering on great quality rock

description

The smaller (but still huge) of the two Peabody boulders

approach

Walk up to the boulder from the parking lot

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Arete V1 X Boulder
2 Go Granny Ho

Sit start at good undercling/left facing flake. Climb up and left to underclings, make a move out left to some crimps, then a big move right to finish as for Go Granny Go.

V7 Boulder 13ft
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 Go granny GO {AU} V5 Boulder
4 Unnamed V0- Boulder
5 Unnamed2 V2 Boulder
6 Unnamed3 V2 Boulder
7 Unnamed4 V5 Boulder
8 Baburre V12 Boulder
9 Essential Peabody V0 Boulder 26ft
10 North Face Direct

Steep cranking on massive huecos before a committing sequence to turn the lip, finishing up a slab

V2 Boulder 20ft
11 Slipstream

Sit start on dual underclings, then big moves on big holds

V4 Boulder 10ft
12 Center Direct

Start under the bulge matched on the large undercling into a series of steep, powerful moves on small holds.

V10 Boulder 13ft
13 Direction V13 Boulder
14 Direct North

A direct variant of "Direction".

V14 Boulder
15 Thunderbird V11 Boulder
16 Baburre Short V11 Boulder
17 The Mystery V12 Boulder
18 Go Granny Go; Right Finish V5 Boulder
19 West Corner V4 Boulder
20 Southwest Arete 5.9 X Boulder 39ft
21 Magnetic North

One of the most classic lines in all of Bishop. Powerful moves with a crux just high enough to encourage self-doubt

FFA: Jeff Sillcox

FA: Jeff Sillcox

V8 Boulder 33ft
22 Tiers of Uncertainty V12 Boulder
23 Too Tall to Fall

Start as Tiers of Uncertainty but then trends left to join the arête at the top.

FA: Miles Adamson, Jan 2020

V10 Boulder 40ft

1.3. The Drifter Boulder 8 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 37.328845, -118.574790

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Tois Maunets Traverse V10 Boulder
2 The Knobs V6 Boulder
3 High Plains Drifter V7 Boulder
4 Change of Heart V6 Boulder
5 Smoking

Right side of NW Face. Climb patina/crack to slab.

V0 Boulder 16ft
6 East Face Sit V4 Boulder 35ft
7 Les Trois Maunets V11 Boulder
8 Change Of Knobs V7/8 Boulder 25ft

1.4. The Mandala Boulder 6 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 37.329101, -118.574934

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Mandala SDS / The Mandalion

FA: Tony Lamiche, 2002

V14 Boulder
2 The Mandala

Start on the prow on the North-west side of the boulder.

FA: Chris Sharma, 2000

V12 Boulder 20ft
3 The Mandala Direct V12 Boulder
4 The Pope's Prow

Climb up the blunt arete on the southwest side of the boulder.

V6 Boulder 16ft
5 Devoted

Sit start, then go up the balancy slab

V8 Boulder
6 Devoted Traverse

Sit start on the sidepulls, climb up and to the right

V6 Boulder

1.5. The Hunk Boulder 1 route in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 37.328858, -118.575114

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Hunk V2 Boulder 18ft

1.6. The Green Wall 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 37.328729, -118.575337

approach

walk up the hill from the car park and past Grandpa & grandma then out to the left. green wall, can't miss it!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 East Rib V3 R Boulder 30ft
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Green Wall Arete

Climb left arête (first you come to from Grandma boulder).

V1 Boulder
3 Green Wall Essential

Between the Arete and Centre. Sidepulls or crack down right to start, then up through delicate techy feet and shallow edges.

V2 Boulder 10ft
4 Green Wall Center V6 Boulder

1.7. Smooth Shrimp/Buttocks Boulder 8 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Buttocks V2 Boulder
2 Project Boulder
3 The Flake V1 Boulder
4 Unamed V1 Boulder
5 Smooth Shrimp V6 Boulder
6 Perfectly Chicken V5 Boulder
7 Cocktail Sauce V10 Boulder
8 Bubba Gump V10 Boulder

1.8. Saigon Area 16 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 37.329522, -118.575240

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Saigon V6 Boulder
2 Fight Club V11 Boulder
3 Fight Club Direct V11 Boulder
4 Saigon Direct V9 Boulder
5 Unnamed V0 Boulder
6 Unnamed2 V3 Boulder
7 Unnamed3 V0 Boulder
8 Unnamed4 V2 Boulder
9 Monkey Dihedral V2 Boulder
10 Unnamed5 V2 Boulder
11 Unnamed6 V3 Boulder
12 Topside V5 Boulder
13 Raggedy Ann V3 Boulder
14 Doll Face V4 Boulder
15 The Sharma Traverse V10 Boulder
16 Backside Mantel V7 Boulder

1.9. Sunshine Boulder 6 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 37.328609, -118.575174

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Unnamed 4 V1 Boulder 10ft
2 Unnamed 3 V0- Boulder 16ft
3 Unnamed 2 V0- Boulder 16ft
4 Unnamed V0 Boulder 20ft
5 Good Morning Sunshine

Right side of South Face.

V1 Boulder 20ft
6 East Face VB Boulder

1.10. Womb Boulder 3 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 37.329007, -118.574689

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 A Birthing Experience

Crawl into the low cave. Squirm left and out up the short wall to the left.

V1 Boulder
2 The Womb / birthing Experience V1 Boulder 10ft
3 Yo! Basecamp V0 Boulder 10ft

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
VB East Face Boulder 1.9. Sunshine Boulder
V0- Unnamed Boulder 1.2. Grandma Peabody
Unnamed 2 Boulder 16ft 1.9. Sunshine Boulder
Unnamed 3 Boulder 16ft 1.9. Sunshine Boulder
5.8 X Advanced Rockcraft Arete Boulder 1.1. Grandpa Peabody
V0 Essential Peabody Boulder 26ft 1.2. Grandma Peabody
Smoking Boulder 16ft 1.3. The Drifter Boulder
Unnamed Boulder 1.8. Saigon Area
Unnamed3 Boulder 1.8. Saigon Area
Unnamed Boulder 20ft 1.9. Sunshine Boulder
Yo! Basecamp Boulder 10ft 1.10. Womb Boulder
5.9 X Southwest Arete Boulder 39ft 1.2. Grandma Peabody
V1 Green Wall Arete Boulder 1.6. The Green Wall
The Flake Boulder 1.7. Smooth Shrimp/Buttocks Boulder
Unamed Boulder 1.7. Smooth Shrimp/Buttocks Boulder
Good Morning Sunshine Boulder 20ft 1.9. Sunshine Boulder
Unnamed 4 Boulder 10ft 1.9. Sunshine Boulder
A Birthing Experience Boulder 1.10. Womb Boulder
The Womb Boulder 10ft 1.10. Womb Boulder
V1 X Arete Boulder 1.2. Grandma Peabody
5.10+ X East Arete Boulder 1.1. Grandpa Peabody
V2 North Face Direct Boulder 20ft 1.2. Grandma Peabody
Unnamed2 Boulder 1.2. Grandma Peabody
Unnamed3 Boulder 1.2. Grandma Peabody
The Hunk Boulder 18ft 1.5. The Hunk Boulder
Green Wall Essential Boulder 10ft 1.6. The Green Wall
The Buttocks Boulder 1.7. Smooth Shrimp/Buttocks Boulder
Monkey Dihedral Boulder 1.8. Saigon Area
Unnamed4 Boulder 1.8. Saigon Area
Unnamed5 Boulder 1.8. Saigon Area
V3 Raggedy Ann Boulder 1.8. Saigon Area
Unnamed2 Boulder 1.8. Saigon Area
Unnamed6 Boulder 1.8. Saigon Area
V3 R East Rib Boulder 30ft 1.6. The Green Wall
V4 Cave Problem Boulder 1.1. Grandpa Peabody
Slipstream Boulder 10ft 1.2. Grandma Peabody
West Corner Boulder 1.2. Grandma Peabody
East Face Sit Boulder 35ft 1.3. The Drifter Boulder
Doll Face Boulder 1.8. Saigon Area
V5 Transporter Room Boulder 1.1. Grandpa Peabody
Go Granny Go; Right Finish Boulder 1.2. Grandma Peabody
Go granny GO Boulder 1.2. Grandma Peabody
Unnamed4 Boulder 1.2. Grandma Peabody
Perfectly Chicken Boulder 1.7. Smooth Shrimp/Buttocks Boulder
Topside Boulder 1.8. Saigon Area
V6 Change of Heart Boulder 1.3. The Drifter Boulder
The Knobs Boulder 1.3. The Drifter Boulder
Devoted Traverse Boulder 1.4. The Mandala Boulder
The Pope's Prow Boulder 16ft 1.4. The Mandala Boulder
Green Wall Center Boulder 1.6. The Green Wall
Smooth Shrimp Boulder 1.7. Smooth Shrimp/Buttocks Boulder
Saigon Boulder 1.8. Saigon Area
V7 Go Granny Ho Boulder 13ft 1.2. Grandma Peabody
High Plains Drifter Boulder 1.3. The Drifter Boulder
Backside Mantel Boulder 1.8. Saigon Area
V7/8 Change Of Knobs Boulder 25ft 1.3. The Drifter Boulder
V8 Magnetic North Boulder 33ft 1.2. Grandma Peabody
Devoted Boulder 1.4. The Mandala Boulder
V9 Unnamed Boulder 1.1. Grandpa Peabody
Saigon Direct Boulder 1.8. Saigon Area
V10 Evilution To the Lip Boulder 1.1. Grandpa Peabody
Center Direct Boulder 13ft 1.2. Grandma Peabody
Too Tall to Fall Boulder 40ft 1.2. Grandma Peabody
Tois Maunets Traverse Boulder 1.3. The Drifter Boulder
Bubba Gump Boulder 1.7. Smooth Shrimp/Buttocks Boulder
Cocktail Sauce Boulder 1.7. Smooth Shrimp/Buttocks Boulder
The Sharma Traverse Boulder 1.8. Saigon Area
V11 Evilution Direct Boulder 1.1. Grandpa Peabody
La Belette Boulder 1.1. Grandpa Peabody
Baburre Short Boulder 1.2. Grandma Peabody
Thunderbird Boulder 1.2. Grandma Peabody
Les Trois Maunets Boulder 1.3. The Drifter Boulder
Fight Club Boulder 1.8. Saigon Area
Fight Club Direct Boulder 1.8. Saigon Area
V11 X Ambrosia Boulder 43ft 1.1. Grandpa Peabody
V12 Rastaman Vibration Boulder 49ft 1.1. Grandpa Peabody
Baburre Boulder 1.2. Grandma Peabody
The Mystery Boulder 1.2. Grandma Peabody
Tiers of Uncertainty Boulder 1.2. Grandma Peabody
The Mandala Boulder 20ft 1.4. The Mandala Boulder
The Mandala Direct Boulder 1.4. The Mandala Boulder
V12 R Evilution Boulder 52ft 1.1. Grandpa Peabody
V13 Direction Boulder 1.2. Grandma Peabody
V14 Direct North Boulder 1.2. Grandma Peabody
The Mandala SDS Boulder 1.4. The Mandala Boulder
V15 Lucid Dreaming Boulder 49ft 1.1. Grandpa Peabody
V16 The Process Boulder 1.1. Grandpa Peabody
? Project Boulder 1.7. Smooth Shrimp/Buttocks Boulder
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