As Traversi dputs it: “Empath is slightly overhanging, about 65 feet tall and it’s difficult all the way from the bottom to the anchors. It’s a power endurance test piece with very few resting positions. The minimal shake spots are on bad liebacks with smears for feet. The route revolves around squeezing this refrigerator-like feature from bottom to top. There are only two down-pulling holds on the entire route. One of the uniquely difficult aspects of the climb is that your left hand is always on the ‘good’ holds and your right hand is always on bad holds. Your left arm gets completely smoked, because there are few opportunities to rest it.”
Climb past the first 3 bolts of 'Burnt Offering I'[233129391], then follow the bolt line right to the 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Burn Victim'[233131503].
2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Deep Throat'[233127741]. You can, from here, continue up 'Put Up Or Shut Up'[233163687] as an optional second pitch on the 'High Country Headwall'[233144067].
2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Spliff'[233123331]. Still not pumped? Continue up 'High Times'[234770229] as an optional second pitch on the 'High Country Headwall'[233144067].
The New Deal is the first 5.14a established by an American. Scott Cosgrove did the first ascent on Super Bowl Sunday January 31st, 1988 and he suggested the grade of 5.13d. It took 22 years for the New Deal to see a second ascent. Alan Moore repeated the New Deal in 2010 and suggested the grade of 5.14a. Video of second ascent.
2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Burnt Offering II'[233130216]. You can, from here, continue up 'Put Up Or Shut Up'[233163687] as an optional second pitch on the 'High Country Headwall'[233144067].
An unlikely direct finish to Double Dragon that is well worth the effort. After the reachy crux on Double Dragon power up the rounded layback above to some powerful cranks on small edges before a tricky final dead point and run out
Taste the Bronco