Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
5.7 A0 | ★★★ Royal Arches Route
An exceptionally popular easy route up the central buttress between the two arch features. For such a popular route the climbing isn't actually that great, with lots of rambly 4th class pitches to start, an unavoidable aid move, and some mungy bits as well. The climb is also quite linear, especially up high, so passing slower parties or climbing parallel to them isn't particularly easy.
| 430m, 15 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.7 R | ★★★ Snake Dike
Bolts replaced in 1992. FFA: Eric Beck, Jim Bridwell & Chris Fredericks, 1965 | 550m, 8 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.8 | ★★★ The Nutcracker Suite
FFA: Royal Robbins & Liz Robbins, 1967 | 180m, 5 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.8 | ★★★ Bishop's Terrace
Pro to 4". 60m rap. This can be done as one long pitch. FA: Russ Warne, Dave McFadden & Steve Roper, 1959 FFA: Chuck Pratt & Herb Swedlund, 1960 | 55m, 2 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.9 | ★★★ Central Pillar of Frenzy
One of the best 5.9 routes in the Valley! This stunning route can be identified by the twin crack system of the second pitch just left of the bear bins. Amazing climbing. Most parties rap at the top of the 5th pitch using double ropes. A 70m rope will need to be extended to reach on the first rap (top of 5th pitch). FA: Jim Bridwell et al., 1973 | 170m, 5 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.7 | ★★ After Six
Walk off descent with short 3rd and 4th class exposure. Retreat earlier by rappelling with 2 ropes or escaping left atop pitch 4. Pro to 2". FFA: Yvon Chouinard & Ruth Schneider, 1965 | 180m, 6 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose
On the tick list of most aspiring climbers, The Nose is a long, sustained and beautiful climb. An incredible line straight up an intimidating wall with many memorable pitches. The Nose can be done big wall style, or it can be done "Nose In a Day"(NIAD) style. The climbing has a surprising amount of splitter cracks with many pitches of sustained hands/fists cracks. If you are aiding, it can be done with some mandatory 5.9 climbing and mandatory C2 sections. Much of the C2 on The Nose is actually quite soft for the grade due to the abundance of fixed gear and long pieces of tat which avoids some of the more difficult sections. Don't underestimate the difficulty of a summit however, you need to have many technical skills dialed, such as pendulums, hauling, lowerouts etc. in order to make it. You also need to move fast, most parties bail not because they don't have the ability to do a single pitch, but because they are moving to slow. Practice lots and move quick. Speed Records
FA: Warren Harding, Wayne Merry & George Whitmore, 1958 FFA: Lynn Hill, 1993 | 1000m, 31 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.10d | ★★★ Serenity Crack
FA: Glen Denny & Les Wilson, 1961 FFA: Tom Higgins & Chris Jones, 1967 | 110m | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.6 | ★★ Munginella
Located in the leftmost dihedral of the five open books area, this route begins with a 4th class scramble up to a bush. Then it's two or three pitches of varied climbing with corners, cracks, friction slab, and a bulge. Be careful of loose rock at the top, and consider belaying from the trees to the right instead of the left. Walk off left to descend with an optional single rope rappel. FFA: Tom Fender & Vic Tishous, 1966 | 110m, 3 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.6 III | ★★★ Southeast Buttress
Seemingly intimidating from afar, the Southeast Buttress of Cathedral Peak is a beautiful 5 pitch route filled with lovely moderate climbing. A must do when in Tuolumne, Cathedral Peak can become quite crowded, fortunately the climbing offers many ways to navigate around other parties, at least down low (up high the face narrows, and parties tend to get bottlenecked). | 220m, 5 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.10c | ★★★ East Buttress
1
5.6
120ft
2
5.8
40ft
3
5.8
100ft
4
5.7
100ft
5
5.10c
100ft
6
5.8
100ft
7
5.7
120ft
8
5.8
130ft
9
5.7
100ft
10
5.8
140ft
11
5.7
120ft
About 12 single rope Rapels Description is for climber facing the cliff Locate the rap anchor a few meters to the left Rap diagonally to the left towards a distinct triangular block, NOT steight down The next anchor is to the left hand side Rap towards the groove with the tree Do not pass the tree stop 3-4meters before. Look left it's not super obvious but that's where the next Rap anchor is Take care with the rope on this rap that it doesn't get caught on the trees 20m or so below. Flake it on yourself /harness. From this point on the raps are straight forward down the face. Easy to locate, even with a headtorch if you are rappeling in the dark. Apart from maybe rap 8 or 9 where the face becomes less slabby. The Rap is a little bit more to the left Very good Route! Heaps of chossy rock to look out for though Made me feal a bit that I was climbing in the mountains... We linked 3-4 easy And 7-8 in a mega 70m long pitch I would suggest not linking 1 with 2 The start of 2 can be a bit commiting, Nicer to have the belayer next to you, to stop you for decking We aided the bolted pitch Could have been fun to try climb it, but not fun if we wasted that time and got caught out in the dark for the last couple of pitches Especially when you need to do 12Raps to get out Rumor has it to better Rap than do the walk off.. FA: W. Harding, J. Davis & B. Swift, 1954 FFA: F. Sacherer & E. Leeper, 1965 | 360m, 9 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.9 | ★★★ Commitment
Starts from a tree up the same 3rd class ramp as Munginella, but after having traversed further across the ledge the ramp reaches. Or can be reached from right as well by descending, then re-ascending around the foot of the cliff. FFA: Jim Bridwell, David Bircheff & Phil Bircheff, 1966 | 100m, 3 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.8 | ★★ Church Bowl Lieback
4th class approach. Descend via 100' rappel. Pro to 1". FFA: unknown, 1987 | 37m | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.9 | ★★ Jamcrack Route
1
5.7
2
5.9
5.7 hand crack with V at top to ledge; move left a few feet then 5.9 fingers crack to second anchor. | 53m, 2 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.10b | ★★★ East Buttress
1
5.9
160ft
2
5.10b
70ft
3
5.6
55ft
4
5.6
125ft
5
Class 3
80ft
6
5.8
155ft
7
5.8
130ft
8
5.9
65ft
9
5.9
130ft
10
5.5
100ft
11
5.8
160ft
12
5.7
150ft
13
5.6
70ft
For the descent take care, it might not be easy to locate it especially in the dark. After topping out you follow a trail and a bunch of cairns down. Then you continue walking down on some slabs The rap station is as you walk down facing the valley to the right hand side (Skier's-right) A chain on a ledge with usually some fixed ropes, We did 6 raps (the last 2 were short) Do NOT go left! Do NOT rap from the tat and old rings that are on a very dead looking tree. After the raps follow a long but obvious trail through the trees and back on the road FA: Allen Steck, Wili Siri, Bill Long & Willi Unsoeld, 1953 | 440m | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.7 | ★★★ Corrugation Corner
1
5.6
140ft
2
5.7
130ft
3
5.7
190ft
FA: Kurt Edsburg & et al, 1960 | 140m | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
5.9 | ★★★ Regular Route
FFA: Wally Reed & Chuck Pratt, 1958 | 300m, 12 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.9 | ★ Grant's Crack
| 24m | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.10a | ★★★ Moby Dick, Center
Difficult fingers at the start leading to a sustained wide section. Beautiful climbing. Pro to 4.5", 2 ea. 4". FFA: Franch Sacherer & Steve Roper, 1963 FA: Herb Swedlund & Penny Carr, 1963 | 58m, 2 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.7 R | ★★★ Bear's Reach
1
5.7 R
120 ft
2
5.7
120 ft
3
5.7
120 ft
FFA: Phil Berry & Robin Linnett, 1956 | 110m | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
5.8 | ★★ After Seven
An excellent alternate start to After Six with committing crack climbing and much less polish.
Rappel with 2 ropes (a single 70m rope may or may not suffice), or join up with pitch 3 of After Six. Pro to 2". FFA: unknown | 79m, 2 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.9 | ★★★ West Crack
| 210m, 5 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.10b | ★★ Church Bowl Tree
FA: Tom Rohr FA: Mike Jefferson & Dave Collins, 1970 FFA: unknown, 1982 | 18m, 2 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.8 | ★★ Haystack
1
5.6
140 ft
2
5.8
110 ft
3
5.6
165 ft
Belay from natural anchors. FFA: Ken Edsburg, T.M. Herbert & Jerry Sublette, 1965 | 130m, 3 | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
5.7 | ★★ Pine Line
Pro to 2". FFA: Jeff Schaffer & Greg Schaffer, 1966 | 21m | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.9 | ★★★ The Line
1
5.9
150ft
2
5.9
120ft
3
5.8
50ft
When looking at the East Wall, this is the obvious, nearly straight up and down, bottom-to-top crack line. When you see it, you know it. Climb the crack. Keep climbing it. | 98m | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
5.10a | ★★★ Sons of Yesterday
| 240m | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.6 | ★★★ The Grack, Center Route
Three pitches of scrambly crack climbing up a slightly positive (20 to 30 degree) slab. Just before reaching the top-out at the end of the third pitch, the crack seam disappears and the climber must make two or three intimidating traverse moves to better holds. The route finishes on a very large ledge with bolts. There are now 5 rappel anchors (including the final belay station) that let you rap in a direct line to the bottom.
| 120m, 3 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.11a | ★★★ Outer Limits
FFA: Jim Bridwell & Jim Orey, 1971 | 47m, 2 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.8 C1 V | ★★★ South Face
FA: Layton Kor & Chris Fredericks, 1964 | 370m, 11 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.9 | ★★ Child of Light | 26m | Owens River Gorge | ||
5.7 R | ★★ Surrealistic Pillar
1
5.7
100ft
2
5.7
150ft
3
5.5 R
50ft
FA: Ken Edsburg, Mike Edsburg & Jerry Sublette, 1963 | 91m | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
5.6 | ★ Swan Slab Gully
| 98m, 3 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.9 | ★★ Lena's Lieback
FA: Kim Schmitz & Jim Madsen, 1967 | 58m, 3 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.8 | ★ China Doll | 20m | Owens River Gorge | ||
5.9 | ★★★ Reed's Direct
FA: Wally Reed, Frank Sacerer, Mark Powell, Gary Colliver & Andy Lichman, 1964 | 73m, 3 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.12b | ★★★ Regular Northwest Face
FA: Royal Robbins, Mike Sherrick & Jerry Gallwas, 1957 FFA: Dean Potter †, 2002 | 670m, 23 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.7 | ★ Pop Bottle
A great first pitch, and easier, but still very pleasant pitches above.
| 130m, 3, 1 | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
5.8 | ★★ East Crack
In the center of East Wall is an obvious arch, rising up from the base of the cliff and curving rightwards. East Crack goes up the 2nd crack line right of the right-end of the arch.
FFA: T.M. Herbert & Gordon Webster, 1966 | 120m, 3 | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
5.9 | ★★ Heart of the Sun | 25m | Owens River Gorge | ||
5.4 | ★ Knapsack Crack
left-most obvious low-angle crack line. | 91m, 3 | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
5.8 R | ★★★ South Crack
Stellar climbing up a disappearing crack, then scary slabs above.
Head over the back of the dome to an obvious left-trending gully - descend this. | 150m, 6 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.10c | ★★ Sherrie's Crack
| 24m | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.7 | ★ Penelope's Problem
| 18m | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.10c | ★★ Bummer
| 50m | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.9 | ★★★ Nutcracker Right Start
The splitter right trending crack to the right of 'Nutcracker'. Solo 30' up to the top of the shield, then dubious gear to get started in the incipient crack (take great care here - this is the crux and it's poorly protected). The crack widens as it goes right, offering bomber gear, but the slab underneath is very polished, making this a long and sustained pitch at the grade. FFA: Kim Schmitz, Jim Bridwell & Cliff Jennings, 1969 | 61m, 2 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.9 | ★★ La Cosita, Right
Pro to 2". FA: TM Herbert & Steve Roper, 1963 | 27m | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.7 | ★ Uncle Fanny
Pro to 3". Descend with 80' rappel. FA: Bruce Price & Michael McLean, 1970 | 37m | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.10a | ★★★ Sacherer Cracker
Fabulous steep jam crack from narrow hand to offwidth. Pro to 6" with doubles to 3". Two rope rappel. FFA: Frank Sacherer & Mike Sherrick, 1964 | 46m | Yosemite National Park | ||
V4 | ★★★ Iron Man | 5m | Buttermilks | ||
5.8 | ★★ Harry Daley
Two pitches up the center of the Monday Morning Slab pinnacle. Climb 3rd/4th class scrambles to a ledge in the middle of the slab, where there is an obvious pin-scarred crack going up the center of a slab.
FA: Ken Weeks & Harry Daley, 1960 | 70m, 2 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.10d | ★★ Lazy Bum
| 15m | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.4 | Aunt Fanny's Pantry
Pro to 3". FA: Sheridan Anderson & Leo LebBon, 1965 | 30m | Yosemite National Park | ||
{AU} YDS:5.7 AID:A3 COM:V | ★★★ West Face
FA: Warren Harding, Al MacDonald, Glen Denny (with help from Les Wilson, Chris Westphal & George Whitmore), 1961 | 300m, 11 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.10a | ★ Pole Position
Descend carefully via 100' rappel followed by 4th class downclimbing. FFA: John Harpole & et al. | 40m, 8 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.10a | ★★★ Hospital Corner
FA: unknown FFA: Richard Harrison & Jay Smith, 1977 | 73m, 2 | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
5.10b | ★★ Knob Job
FA: Kevin Worrall & George Meyers, 1976 | 61m, 2 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.6 | ★★ East Wall
| 130m | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
{AU} YDS:5.8 | ★★ The Braille Book
| 190m | Yosemite National Park | ||
Class 3 | ★ Mountaineer's Route
FA: John Muir | 400m | High Sierra | ||
5.8 | ★★ The Groove
| 64m | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
5.10b | ★ Tsing Tao
FA: Marty Lewis & Kevin Calder | 20m | Owens River Gorge | ||
5.10c | ★★★ Lunatic Fringe
Yosemite's best 5.10 crack apparently!!! It is outstanding, but very challenging, it will test all of your crack climbing skills and is a very difficult onsight. There is finger locks, ring locks, double finger locks, hands, fists, o/w, laybacks. An awesome climb. | 43m | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.9 | ★★★ Traveler Buttress
| 180m | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
V4 | ★★★ The Solarium
Harder now due to breaks on the topout holds. | 4m | Tablelands | ||
5.7 A2 VI | ★★★ Zodiac
FA: Charlie Porter | 550m, 16 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.9 | ★ Welcome to the Gorge | 18m | Owens River Gorge | ||
5.10a | ★★ Surrealistic Pillar Direct
| Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||
5.9 | ★★★ Regular (Southwest Face) Route
| 130m | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.8 | ★★ Little John, Right
Pro to 3". FFA: Jack Turner & Royal Robbins, 1962 | 79m, 3 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.11b | ★★ Aid Route
The crux of the climb is the 5.11b start, but don't let that grade discourage you. French free or aid the first 15 feet, and the grade falls to 5.10a C0. Save some strength for the finger locks through the last 15 feet of the route. FA: Joe Oliger & Steve Roper, 1961 FFA: Lloyd Price et al., 1967 | 55m, 2, 3 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.6 | ★ Hanging Flake
| 9m | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.6 | ★ Deception
| 91m, 3 | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
5.6 | ★ Oak Tree Flake
Pro to 4.5". | 30m | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.11b | ★★★ The Freeblast (1st 10 of Salathe)
| 400m | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.5 | ★★★ Northwest Buttress
At 1,500 ft. Tenaya Peak is long. It offers low grade friction climbing with only a few sections in the 5.5 range. A 5.6 or so crack variation on the top pitch is available for those wanting something a bit spicier. | 460m, 14 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.8 | ★ Nurdle
| 55m | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.10a | ★★★ Crest Jewel
| 220m | Yosemite National Park | ||
V3 | ★★★ King Tut | 3m | Buttermilks | ||
5.8 | ★ Crowd Pleaser | 16m | Owens River Gorge | ||
5.6 | ★ Church Bowl Chimney
Pro to 3.5". To descend, walk right and rap 90' from bolts. FFA: unknown | 37m | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.7 II | ★★★ Traverse from South to North
The full traverse from north tip to south tip, inclusive of north and south summits clocks in at 1300M. Most people rap down after the south summit and most of the difficulties come after this point. | 1300m | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.10b | ★★★ Stone Groove
| 18m | Yosemite National Park | ||
V0 | ★★★ Hero Roof | 3m | Buttermilks | ||
5.10b | ★★★ Crescent Arch
The obvious arch dihedral. Three pitches of lay backs, smears and traversing under rooves. Third pitch is the crux and longest pitch. Crux is placing gear. Move just past apex of arch and head upwards to belay. Scramble to top. | 150m, 4, 3 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.10c | ★★★ Lucky Streaks
| 180m | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.7 | ★★ West Country
Pro to 4". FFA: Bob Summers & John Fischer, 1970 | 120m, 5, 3 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.6 | ★★ Northwest Books
Approach: gear-up at the car park and walk under Lembert Dome. To access the first pitch, follow the first ramp you come to, leading up & right above where you've hiked. Set-up a natural belay next to a tree.
Descent: walk-off right down 3rd and 4th class slabs. FA: Warren Harding & Frank de Saussure, 1954 | 110m, 2, 1 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.9 | ★★★ Igor Unchained
FA: Herb Laeger & Paul Clark | 120m | Sequoia National Park | ||
{AU} YDS:5.10a | ★★★ Gorgeous | 20m | Owens River Gorge | ||
5.4 | ★ Regular Route
| 120m, 4 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.10a | ★ Unnamed Thin Crack
Start right of the blocks at the base of Grant's Crack and continue up the thin crack to the top anchor at the tree. | 24m | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.8 | ★ Babushka | 20m | Owens River Gorge | ||
5.10a | ★ Fear of a Black Planet | 25m | Owens River Gorge | ||
5.8 | ★ The Caverns
FFA: Jerry Anderson & Jim Pettigrew, 1970 | 120m, 4 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.7 R | ★★ Golfer's Route
Runout knob climbing. Links with a 60m rope. Climb this to set up topropes for the routes to the right, but be careful on the 5th class traverse to those anchors. Pro to 2". A tricam or purple linkcam works especially well in a pocket before the last runout on P2. FFA: Don Reid & Mike Corbett, 1979 | 55m, 2, 5 | Yosemite National Park | ||
{AU} YDS:5.6 AID:A2 COM:V | ★★★ The Prow
| 370m, 12 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.9 | Black is Brown
(SuperTopo description is incorrect.) Rap with 2 ropes or walk off 4th class left. Pro to 2". FFA: Kim Schmitz & Frank Trummel, 1966 | 44m | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ Salathé Wall
FA: Royal Robbins, Tom Frost & Chuck Pratt, 1961 FFA: Todd Skinner & Paul Piana, 1988 | 880m, 35 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.8 | ★★★ Selaginella
FFA: Wally Reed & Jim Posten, 1963 | 170m, 4 | Yosemite National Park |