Showing all 22 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Talking Headwall | |||||
5.9 | McMurray must be Castrated
| 12m, 1 | |||
5.8 | ★★ I Love Big Jugs
First and leftmost bolted climb on the approach trail. Follow 3 bolts up lower 2/3 of the climb which is at about 5.5 level. The upper 1/3 is a sustained 5.8 on good holds through overhanging terrain. | 18m, 5 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Ne Plus Ultra
Start just right of I Love Big Jugs and little to the left of Fortis. Climb on easy terrain 2/3 up the cliff to a set of two roofs. Pull the roofs. | 30m, 6 | |||
5.8 | Little Balls
| 45m, 3 | |||
5.9 | ★ Discontinuance
Start at a block leaning against a tree just left of Fat Bastard. Discontinuance is a new name after original "Continuance" climb was drastically altered by a rock fall. Climb easy terrain to the roof 1/3 up the climb. This section is not protected by bolts and some trad gear would make it safer. Pull through the crux few feet above the roof to easier terrain. | 15m, 4 | |||
5.8 | ★ Fat Bastard
This is the last bolted route before the trail begins to ascend the hill on the right side of the crag, just in front of two large trees. Start at the right side of the wall under a large roof up high. Easy climbing leads to the roof. Pull the roof with 2 bolts to good holds at the anchors. | 20m, 5 | |||
Buzzard Rocks | |||||
5.8 | ★★ Unknown Slab
| 1 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Pulp Friction
First bolted route on the right of the climbers' trail. the climb had two cruxes one above bolt #1 and the second above bolt #4. After the 4th bolt there is an easy runout to the anchors | 24m, 4 | |||
5.7 | ★★ Raising Arizona
25' right of Pulp Friction, and on the other side of some pines growing in a large flake system on the cliff, look for an obvious bolt line. Climb 3 bolts of slab/face right of a crack system. Take a sharp left after the third bolt and you'll clip the 4th bolt above a small ledge. Run out to rappel anchors about 15 feet. 4 bolts to anchors. | 23m, 4 | |||
5.7 | ★★ Failure to Communicate
10' right of Raising Arizona, look for another obvious bolt line. Look for a 4 bolt line direct to anchors left of a pine tree. | 21m, 4 | |||
5.8 | ★ Don't Fear the Leeper
Bad dirty route. Not worth it. | 23m, 1 | |||
5.8 | ★ Kimberly
Located 10-15 feet to the left of Melungian Brotherhood. Except for 2 bolts, one on the bottom and one on the very top, this is a pleasant 5.7 gear route following a crack. Last 10 feet become much more steep and thin. Anchors on the top | 18m, 2 | |||
5.8 | ★★ Melungian Brotherhood
Very pleasant sustained long route with some long sections between bolts, which can be protected with trad gear. Anchors at the top. Can be done with 70m rope if you do not mind an easy 10' scramble to the ground. | 37m, 7 | |||
5.8 | ★ Ass Cannibal
Another pleasant sustained long route. Nice slab to a small roof than move up and left to the top. Anchors. | 40m, 6 | |||
5.9 | ★★ The bulge
Start under a bolt above left side of arching rock. Bring light rack. The climb has two cruxes. The first is at the first bolt and the second is the roof towards the top. Second crux can be done either to the right or to the left of the bolt. Anchors at the top | 30m, 8 | |||
5.8 | ★★ Half and Half
Start under a bolt above the right side of arching rock. Bring light rack. Anchors at the top | 35m, 7 | |||
5.7 R | Obscure Adventure
Bushwack north (left) from Anonymous Flake or south (right) from Half and Half. It is 150 feet from Half and Half on a quite tricky faint trail up and down some steep gullies, so approach from Anonymous Flake is recommended. Look for low bolt on a lichen-free section of rock Very pleasant slab past 3 bolts ends suddenly. Face become covered with lichen and there is no protection: bolts or natural, as you climb on easy terrain. There will be a small sapling on the right and some dirty sections with loose dirt before you find some natural protection, pull over a small overhang and climb to a large ledge with a big tree. Make your own repel station on the tree or climb to the top. The route seems very rarely done and should be avoided. NO ANCHORS at the top. | 43m, 5 | |||
5.7 | ★ Keep Off the Riff Raff Direct
| 40m | |||
5.8 | ★★★ Anonymous Flake
This route is unusual for Buzzard Point as it is not a slab but a beautiful steep trad line following a finger crack. Route starts as a steep slab which can be done at several places including way to the left or to the right side. Go over a bulge to much less steep slab section. Not much protection here, but if you place something use long runner. Continue until you find detached rock ring which can be threaded. Angle left up a steep wall to a bolt. There are several small nut and can placements in this section. Continue up on thin folds until you get to the small roof with a good crack in the corner. Follow the finger crack diagonally to the right until you reach the top. Climb onto the face on the right to reach anchors. Rack: mostly small nuts and cams with nothing bigger than 1 inch. | 34m | |||
5.9 PG13 | ★★ Unknown
Start the same as Anonymous Flake, but after the initial slab section move right just before it gets steep. Climb the steep face to the bolt, protecting it with small nuts and cams. Continue up the face to the top. There are few very good gear placements on this route but they can be tricky to spot. | 1 | |||
5.8 | ★ Rather be Sk8boarding
| 27m, 4 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Prajapati
| 24m, 4 |
Showing all 22 routes.