Ascents in City of Rocks

Second go after biffing of the start. 4 stars if ever there were that many to give.

don't rap the whole route, rap into gully. single 80m doesn't reach from 3rd to 2nd anchor

1st try of day, 2nd try total. finished right variant. worked moves for left finish, ticky tacky two move traverse to layback. gear in order: #3 w/ runner #2 w/ runner black totem bolt blue totem .3 .4 blue or black totem bolt bolt mussy hook anchor

2nd go. ripped open finger in first finger crack, crimp traverse slick with blood. beautiful line

2nd go. runout slab for topout, heady and fun.

Liked the climb so much I did it again before we pulled the rope.the crack section is really excellent.

Exquisite route! Lower half is a solid fist-to-hands crack with excellent pro up to 4", to a brief flake below the first bolt at about 50 ft. From there you follow a total of 8 bolts over difficult vertical slab with a definite crux before you finally reach chains with cold shuts.

TR'd after triple roofs lead. pretty fun route split into two distinct looks. easy crack protected low angle climbing followed by some really spooky friction slab especially after the last bolt if you stay on route the last move to easy ground is very pressing. good luck finding any real hands up there, it's almost all just body positioning and footwork with very careful moves. lead would be spicy but safe

fell at the crux pulling through on the plate with the right hand after pulling vertical, failed to spot my hand but the . 75 was great. bring as many . 3/.4/.5 as you've got

fun! easy well protected climbing with a good gear belay at the top. used a #3, #1 and . 4 for the anchor but most anything would probably work. chains to climbers left for lower/rap/fuckery

fun little roof move that goes out right, once you find the jug you've got it. sorta contrived up top of the intention was to stay right in the bolt line.

wouldn't be a bad lead as long as you leave the crack system in the middle and get back in where the humping begins but we just used a TR from the route on the left

full fun! start straight up under the bolt line and slot a piece in the diagonal that meets the dihedral wall to the right and run to through four bolts, extend super long if using the bolt under the roof (a 120cm is still too short to fully cut rope drag) or use pro. skip the fifth bolt (it dumb) enjoy the stemming moves and go right at the roof to the chains or suffer a down climb.

cruxy roof moves were a lot harder than the grade tells if you ask me. looks like I too did the 5.9 variation

meh. puff puff pass. for all the BS building an anchor off to the right I don't think it's really worth the effort.

had to TR again to make a valid anchor after finding out running to swiss cheese anchors is a terrible idea

super fun rock with an easy run out and then some thoughtful slabby moves, rocking up into good feet was key for this route.

fun super easy. a rope was already up but after climbing it I'd climb it on lead no problem. probably got up it in a minute flat