A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Jill Carlson
Jason HalladayThe size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. Easy Bake Alcove 8 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Easy Bake Alcove 8 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 35.822160, -106.540485
summary
Sunny, south-facing alcove up above river with great view
description
Facing due south, sheltered from the wind and way up above the river, the Easy Bake Alcove gets its name from the Easy-Bake Oven as the area tends to bake even on the coldest winter days. The area is definitely best as a winter crag but fall and spring are reasonable especially if the day is cloudy. Summer evenings are also quite nice.
You'll likely be climbing in t-shirts on sunny, calm winter days even if the temperature at the parking area is well below freezing.
access issues
Almost all the area except for Cattle Call Wall is on Forest Service land. From cattle Call wall to the road is private, but you can climb on it. You cannot climb on the crags on the South side of the road.
approach
Hike along the East Fork of the Jemez River from the main Las Conchas parking lot for about 15 minutes (roughly a mile). You'll cross the river three times on good bridges. After the third crossing, keep hiking past The Sponge. Just beyond The Hidden Tower but before the beautiful Leaning Tower is a big corner/alcove up above the river. This is the Easy Bake Alcove.
where to stay
There are a couple of forest service campgrounds west of Las Conchas on highway 4
ethic
You'll likely encounter some bolted cracks in the area on account of the crumbly rhyolite rock
history
Development began in the late 1990s and stagnated for a couple of decades. In 2014, the Easy Bake Alcove and Retirement Wall areas saw a flurry of route development.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | The Seashells Shall Shine | 5.10d | 70ft | |||
| 2 | Babies In The House | 5.9 | 50ft | |||
| 3 | Lightbulb Not Included | 5.10b | 60ft | |||
| 4 | Schwing! | 5.12b | ||||
| 5 | Crucial Taunt | 5.9 | 60ft | |||
| 6 | Stray Capacitance | 5.10a | 70ft | |||
| 7 | Autumnal Bliss | 5.11b | 70ft | |||
| 8 | The Color Of Optimism | 5.12c | 80ft | |||
2. Index by grade
| Grade | 
|
Stars | Name | Style | Pop |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 5.9 | Babies In The House | 50ft | |||
| Crucial Taunt | 60ft | ||||
| 5.10a | Stray Capacitance | 70ft | |||
| 5.10b | Lightbulb Not Included | 60ft | |||
| 5.10d | The Seashells Shall Shine | 70ft | |||
| 5.11b | Autumnal Bliss | 70ft | |||
| 5.12b | Schwing! | ||||
| 5.12c | The Color Of Optimism | 80ft |