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description

This is the obvious left-to-right-angling crack on the slabby left end of the North Face. A cross between classic Looking Glass eyebrow-wandering and the more strenuous crack climbs to the right.

Begin by climbing up to, and then through, the fallopian chimney that marks the start. Thinking that this squeezer is 5.9 will only get you in trouble elsewhere. 5.8, 80'.

P2: 80 feet of right-leaning crack ends at a pair of bolts. This and the first pitch are easily combined; 5.9.

P3: Inobvious moves in the vicinity of a short vertical crack (5.9+) lead to easier ground up and left. Belay from bolts. 100'

P4: Standard 'Fields of Lichen Growing Wild'; eyebrow version. 5.7, 100'.

Protection The usual stuff will suffice. Bring walkoff shoes.

Route history

There is no known route history.

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: 35.30521, -82.79185

Grade citation

5.9 Assigned grade
5.9+ Jakob Kapelj

Seasonality

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M
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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 67 from 1 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 2

Comment keywords

great

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Greg Loomis

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780990782124

For year-round bouldering fun in the Piedmont region of North Carolina, your next exciting challenge awaits in the Moore's Wall Bouldering guide, featuring over 500 fantastic problems.

  • Full-color guide details over 500 problems, with helpful topo overviews to help get you oriented and awesome action photographs to inspire you before lifting off
  • Printed in color

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Wed 10 May
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