A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Table of contents
- 1. Madison 17 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Madison 17 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Bouldering, Trad climbing and Top roping
Lat / Long: 43.078349, -89.449646
summary
Abandoned sandstone quarry, 2 terraces.
description
An old, abandoned quarry turned into a park in one of the nicest neighborhoods of Madison, WI yields plenty of potential for prime bouldering. The rock is mostly sandstone, with some dolomite. The sandstone parts are strong enough to hold on to. The area is mostly visited by people out for a short stroll and the neighborhood kids. Seldom is it frequented by climbers. There is an upper terrace and a lower terrace; the lower is very sunny, while the upper is quite shaded. Plenty of climbable area.
access issues
Often quite muddy.
approach
Small gravel road off Highbury Rd, maybe 50 ft. Opens into lower terrace of 3-5m boulders. Trail on far end of bottom leads to upper terrace.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★ Drag Queen | 5.11a | 40ft | |||
| 2 | Pablo Picasso | 5.9 | 40ft | |||
| 3 | Sun Dogs | 5.11- PG13 | 40ft | |||
| 4 | Crimp City | V3 | 15ft | |||
| 5 | Alligator Clip | V2 | 10ft | |||
| 6 | Lockup | V3 | 10ft | |||
| 7 | Losing Touch | 5.7 | 35ft | |||
| 8 |
★ Pipe Dreams
An old drill scar. Starts with an undercling directly below where the scar disappears. Once up a little higher all hands and feet are inside or directly along the edge of the scar, other than the final feet, which are 2 nice ledges well outside the scar. In the lower portion of the scar there is a crack along the back that offers possible hands and good feet. Near the middle of the upper terrace. Look along the cliff for the most obvious scar, although there are several. There is a group of boulders (too small to climb) near the bottom. | V3 | 15ft | |||
| 9 | Choss Avenue | 5.7 | 45ft | |||
| 10 | Pretty Machines | 5.8 | 35ft | |||
| 11 | Half Moon Slab | V3/4 | 15ft | |||
| 12 | ★ Parvus | V4 | 10ft | |||
| 13 |
★ Pumpkin Thief
"Pumpkin Thief" lies directly to the right of "When In Doubt...". Use the obvious crack up to a small sloper to a ledge to top out. Bottom is off aside from starting. | V3 | 10ft | |||
| 14 | ★ When In Doubt... | V3 | 15ft | |||
| 15 | When In Doubt Direct | V0 - 1 | 10ft | |||
| 16 |
Hang Out and Play Catan
The boulder starts once you’re in the bat hang position. All rock below the ledge is off for feet and hands expect the initial starting hand tap. Crux is either getting out of the bat hang or getting to the third hold. | V3 | 10ft | |||
| 17 |
Dirty Witch
"Dirty Witch" is located the northwest corner of the lower terrace. More technically challenging as opposed to physically. Feet start in a pocket, left heel hooks on a sloper, with hands on a crimp and a small pinch. Top out using the highest ledge. FA: Evan Freed, 15 Oct 2021 | V2/3 | 10ft | |||
2. Index by grade
| Grade | 
|
Stars | Name | Style | Pop |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 5.7 | Choss Avenue | 45ft | |||
| Losing Touch | 35ft | ||||
| 5.8 | Pretty Machines | 35ft | |||
| 5.9 | Pablo Picasso | 40ft | |||
| V0 - 1 | When In Doubt Direct | 10ft | |||
| 5.11- PG13 | Sun Dogs | 40ft | |||
| V2 | Alligator Clip | 10ft | |||
| 5.11a | ★★ | Drag Queen | 40ft | ||
| V2/3 | Dirty Witch | 10ft | |||
| V3 | Crimp City | 15ft | |||
| Hang Out and Play Catan | 10ft | ||||
| Lockup | 10ft | ||||
| ★ | Pipe Dreams | 15ft | |||
| ★ | Pumpkin Thief | 10ft | |||
| ★ | When In Doubt... | 15ft | |||
| V3/4 | Half Moon Slab | 15ft | |||
| V4 | ★ | Parvus | 10ft |