Routes in Mount Diablo

Located on the far right side of the face, this route starts at the dead log and climbs up to the crack/layback flake. The crux is getting off the ground. Follow the crack to just below the top. There is a blank section of rock prior to topping out. While the crack is solid, I havn't seen any of the bolts that are supposed to exist so I give it an R rating if you wanted to lead it. This route sees a lot of shade and seems to be rarely climbed due to the tough start.

Protection

Cams .75"-3" Long 20+ ft slings for toprope.

The obvious left-slanting diagonal crack. If top-roping, take care in the first 20 or so feet, as a fall here can cause the climber to swing left into the ground.

This climb has two variations, both start using Chouinard's Crack and move on to the face just right of Chouinard's Crack (5.9).

The 5.10a version beginning on the jugs starting just right of the tree and ascending up to the ledge/cave.

The 5.11a variation starts just after the crux move of the crack about 15' up and moves our right and then up on balancy face climbing that will get easier as you climb until you run out of holds and have a brief stretch of slab before reaching a ledge/shallow "cave" where your top rope should hang.

Protection

Far atop the upper tier, there is a medium sized tree near the center of the cliff, set your toprope from this. You'll need about 40' of webbing to keep rope drag to a minimun.

Sustained, quality face climbing. As of 2003 this route had a very high first (second?) bolt - while there was a hole drilled for a sane first bolt there was nothing in it.

Steep slab route with some fairly technical moves and some tiny hand holds. Starts left of Chouinards Crack with a few different starts. Look for tiny features for your hands and trust your feet.

To reach the anchors, climb the 3rd/4th class slab with to the left of pebbly face. There are scattered bolts without hangers (bring your own if you want to use them) or climb a bit higher and use the trees and about 40'/50' of webbing/rope.

Located to the right of Amazing Face following the bolt ladder to a two bolt anchor with chains. The start is the crux and often an old bolt hole is used although not necessary. Look carefully to find holds. Gets a bit easier higher up until you reach the last bolt with a tough move or two to gain the anchor chains. Be careful of a flake that seems loose right below the chains. Great technical face climbing.

Protection 12 quickdraws for lead (watch out for loose bolt up high, number 10 I think), or rap down from amazing face anchors to chains for top rope.

The obvious right-leaning, overhanging offwidth, leading to a short fist crack. Climbs a lot better than it looks!

The most popular route here and most likely the one you will find people on. Starts at the main "cave" in the middle of lower tier and follows the left side of the bolts (which are all solid.) The right side of the bolts offers a slightly harder variation. Fine technical face climbing with good edges everywhere. Easily top roped with 2 bolt anchor on top.

Protection Quickdraws for leading, 15 - 20' sling to extend top rope over edge.