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Chaos

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Description

Chaos is the section of cliff to the right of Serenity Point and left of Alcatraz. The rock is high quality and varies from vertical to slightly overhanging with some sections such as the Power Grid clocking in at steep. As with most north facing cliffs in the Red the rock can be covered in powdery lichen so bring a brush

Access issues inherited from Miller Fork Recreational Preserve

The RRGCC received grant money from the Access Fund to help make a $45,000 down payment, and has a plan in place to make five yearly mortgage payments of $40,000, after which the RRGCC will own the MFRP, securing climbing access on that land in perpetuity.

Approach

From Serenity Point walk right along the trail until reaching a point where it heads downhill skirting the cliff. Chaos begins with the first cluster of routes on a vertical wall capped by a high roof where Live with a Curse can be found. It's also possible to reach Chaos without walking up the trail to Coopers Cove and Serenity Point. To approach this way continue walking along the main dirt road as if going to Highlands or Fruit Wall. Eventually an old logging road angles uphill to the left. Follow this road which branches to a trail leading uphill and ending just beneath Mike Mulligan. The wall faces north to northeast. 37.6417N -83.6802 W

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Routes

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Grade Route

FA: Ian Kirk, 2014

FA: Ray Ellington & Kipp Trummel, 2014

FA: Russ Jackson, 2014

FA: Alex Noreikis & Ian Kirk, 2014

FA: Steve Simpson & Alan Prechtel, 2014

FA: Kipp Trummel, 2014

FA: Kristina Noreikis & Ian Kirk, 2014

FA: Kipp Trummel, 2014

FA: Ray Ellington & Kipp Trummel, 2014

FA: Tania Allen & Kipp Trummel, 2014

FA: Kipp Trummel & Russ Jackson, 2014

FA: Kipp Trummel, 2014

FA: Russ Jackson, 2014

FA: Russ Jackson, 2014

FA: Jeff Neal, 2014

FA: Kipp Trummel, 2014

FA: Art Cammers & Kenneth Johns, 2014

FA: Ray Ellington & Kipp Trummel, 2014

FA: Ray Ellington & Kipp Trummel, 2014

FA: Kenneth Johns & Meghan Curry, 2014

FA: 2014

FA: Kipp Trummel, 2014

FA: Kipp Trummel, 2014

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Brendan Leader

Date: 2022

ISBN: 9780645299915

Onsight Photography:
Comprehensive Sport Climbing Crags of the Red River Gorge, Kentucky

The Red River Gorge in Kentucky is one of the premier sport climbing destinations in the world and the 2nd edition of The Red guidebook has all the info you need to plan your next climbing adventure.

  • 2nd edition adds 245 new climbs, 4 brand new crags, fresh action shots, additional topo shots and maps plus improvements to overall usability
  • Includes details and descriptions of 2,586 routes and 106 crags

Author(s): Dario Ventura and Mike Williams

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9781938393327

Wolverine :
Selected from the area's more than 3,000 routes across 54 crags, Red River George Select presents enough classics to fill a lifetime of weekend climbing fun in Kentucky.
  • Index of classic routes highlights the grade of each climb and indicates if the climb is better suited to sport or trad climbing
  • Helpful icons help you plan your day with driving times, walking times, sun exposure, rain protection and kid-friendliness
  • GPS coordinates and detailed directions help you find your destination easily

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Thu 27 Apr
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