Routes in Moab for selected grade

At the northern end of Parriot Mesa, a slender spire that is detached but barely discernible.

Easiest to hike in from the east having parked in Ida Gulch.

P1) Start on the Eastern side, climbing chockstones in the crack. Continue up to the col between the mesa and spire.

P2) Aid up drilled pitons and bolts to the summit, take some gear too. A number of ASCA bolts replaced some fixed pins in 2010.

Descent) Make 2 raps with 2 x 60m ropes.

Climbs the obvious crack at the south western edge.

P1) 120ft, off-width crack slinging chockstones for pro, turns into squeeze chimney.

P2) 100ft, Move to the back of the chimney, then climb a hand crack and belay on top of a chockstone.

P3) 100ft, up a 5.10 hand crack, protecting with BD #1 cams. Chimney narrows to a stem, leading up to drilled warthogs at an arch.

P4) 50 ft, up a slab for 20 ft, go right, then another 20 ft to large ledge and detached block/flake.

P5) 50 ft, up the detached block and aid through 3 bolts.

Descent: It is possible to rappel the route. Or, traverse the mesa and descend the "Mountaineers Route", although the top can be difficult to find first time.

The large bowl/amphitheatre immediately north of Ascended Yoga Masters.

Looks like a fair bit of loose scrambling, and a final steep wall to exit the amphitheatre.

1. 40m (5.9) More of a crack pitch than a chimney, it looks intimidating for the grade. A low crux leads to the chimney and a double crack system. Straight up with lay-backing & jamming, well protected throughout, bring plenty of cams. There is a higher crux just before the belay through a bulge. DBB.

2. 30m (5.9) A short and awkward off-width section just above the belay, bring a BD#5 to protect and ignore the manky old bolt. Continue up chimneying and passing a few loose chockstones. Trad belay with small to medium cams, although there may be fixed pitons in-place.

3. 30m (5.7) Continue chimneying up, and exit to the right to a loose gravel chute with large loose boulders. Climb over these to a saddle and join the Kor-Ingalis route. Not great gear, but body belay behind boulder is fine.

4. 15m (5.6) Nice climbing up flakes trending left to the top and rappel chains.

1. 130ft (5.6) Up into an awful tight squeeze chimney. Maybe a better alternative is to start 20 foot right and climb up through blocks. Belay on massive ledge with massive bolts and chains.

2. 100ft (5.8) Move across to the chimney and double crack system. Ignore the chimney on the left with the bolt (that’s “Black Sun”). Instead, on the right is a double crack system, the left crack is probably best. Climb over some loose blocks at the top to a comfy ledge with bolts and chains.

3. 100ft (5.9) Layback up the corner, the crack widens and you move into and find a bolt, the crack narrows and you’re forced out for the crux which is protected by a bolt, you’ll stem with thin footholds and gratefully reach a large calcite hold for your left hand. More wide crack/chimney above before being forced out on to the right face just before the belay, bolts and chains.

4. 80ft (5.8) The obvious line is straight up the off-width crack. However, easier climbing up right to join the North Chimney route, climb flakes up to rappel chains.

Climbs the chimney & crack system system that separates The Rectory from The Nuns.

Story of the first ascent (in german): https://cdn.website-editor.net/s/4c9d0834c5d8490aa5f735c9da60c271/files/uploaded/story_rectory.pdf?Expires=1657443633&Signature=WZug93GH-PLhEhAe6iz71T-xf4IzDZar6TEthmXf4OyYD3SGm8hh4h8H4dO8fwzPyzExGEvsOKFiGu~Un67GFEcbXYnLDkjNHkNXEta1GPV~kKcSPCKVAU0ATZlrXUVkmEYI5khRvXjovVBry6ugdA7Wg0tgurNPvHdJ2pzgC8qw~yDI9DqJLrw0~a0fjuwF0LHXZGR95tzmnPFgEk7OWVSpSFPyqN~6xzwMxn9fMa1OGyCXdeLEQ5DvX4Kds-8h2I8NDgMzxsDzEeoyyOtmpCFmg0a1VZBoWRgdZelugvQ1IT4A6EWfyX1eB5aK7dbhtQHqg9PQDndktliDNEPBQg__&Key-Pair-Id=K2NXBXLF010TJW

Originally climbed as Aid and named "Renate Goes To Africa", but later freed and named "Renate Goes to Eleven" as a "a tip of the hat to Nigel Tufnel, who might say of the route 'Don't even look at it'".

1. 60ft, 5.10b

2. 50ft, 5.8

3. 190ft, 5.7

4. 80ft, 5.9

5. 100ft, 5.10a

Descent: Rappel "Salvation Chimney" about 30m south, or, walk north to find the top of "Choir Boyz" and rap that.

Climb from the east side, climb the easy but unprotected chimney between the 2 summits, the first gear placement is just below where the two summits bulge out and the chimney widens - you can place a BD #5 cam on the left, but better is a slung horn on the right.

Stem between the two towers past 2 drilled pitons. Then the crux - the 5.7 committing transition from stemming to the south tower with a good left hand hold around the arete, and drilled piton at feet. Exposed friction leads to the anchor, just below that actual summit.

The move up to the summit is unprotected, but a straightforward beached whale move ;o)

Well known for being run-out, but with careful consideration can actually be protected fairly well.

Start at the south-west (parking lot side) of the tower. Climb crack (cams) to flake (cams) and a mantle. Up to the base of summit block with large horizontal flake, you can protect with BD #3 & #4 at the base of the flake and extend over the lip with slings. Step up and right, possible to sling a small dinner plate with prussic cord, then slightly overhung jugs to rappel chain. Hidden pockets on the summit to help with the mantle.

First climbed solo by Harvey T Carter who said "it's the obvious route on the north side of the tower".

Well, there are obvious zig-zag ledges, but the final 20ft is guarded by vertical poor rock. There is now a 4 bolt (drilled piton) ladder to aid on, placed by Joe Forrester in 2007 to finish their route that started on the south face. There is a rappel station on the shoulder just under the summit block.

Some of the worst rock you will ever climb on. Climb the obvious wide crack at the western edge of the formation to a shoulder under the overhanging summit. On the first ascent the summit was lassoed for an aid finish, there is now a 3 bolt ladder moving left across poor rock/mud to surmount the final obstacle. There is a rappel station below the summit block.

The unique tower is below the Titan Trail and is actually a butte with a large section missing (making it technically an arch—-although the arch is a pitch off the ground). The route starts up the southeast side and climbs a pitch to the arch, then a second pitch through the top of the arch. It’s a pretty cool climb and reportedly goes free at 5.11.

chimney

Flaring crack

Climb the same start as Encore, via the bolted crack. After the initial steepness, move right on lower angle and easier terrain until the upper headwall. Steep climbing on good holds with a short crux takes you to the top.

Same start as Encore.

11 or 12 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.

Good addition to the Cinema playbill. Laybacks, pockets, slabbing and some techy footwork fill up the 60 feet of this enjoyable pitch.

Starts just left of Footloose on a couple of stacked blocks.

Glue-in bolts to lowering carabiners.

Difficult start with only friction for feet followed by a wandering lead. Leftmost bolted route on the right side of the Cinema

First Bolt is Shared with One Eyed Willy then branch left. The fourth bolt can be tricky, you can skip it or go right of it and traverse to clip it.

Short well bolted route. Shares the first bolt with Adventures in Babysitting then branches right. Furthest right bolted route