Routes in Utah for selected grade

A great intro to climbing trad in the Moab area. Right facing corner to a 2 chain anchor.

Morning shade, afternoon sun. Easy access. Sandstone is quite polished due to the high traffic, and the climbing a bit awkward in places. Make sure you look good, you'll be starring in 100's of tourist photos.

Climb follows the obvious crack on the western side, hand crack and jugs for most of the climb, albeit quite polished, it's well protected in the crack the whole way. The crux is about half way up past a bulge, some jamming required, then possibly a second crux towards the top as you're forced out left on to the face. Throughout, if you start to struggle to find the next big hold, reach high.

Three large bolt and chain belay under the summit, comfortable ledge, plenty of room for multiple climbers. It's then 8m of 4th class to the top, protected by 2 drilled pitons, it's worth belaying that for safety.

Descent: 1 x 60m rope reaches the base, you can angle your rappel to the side to allow other parties to climb the route.

Starts just left of the tree in the slabby corner. 2 bolts low down and one high up.

Classic, great crack route with some exposure and mandatory jamming. First pitch up to a slung boulder, then second pitch up to the anchors. Commonly done in one pitch.

Left facing corner right of the big tree.

Finger cracks, face climbing, and slabs. Bring lots of nuts and small cams.

You can't miss the big holds

Well known for being run-out, but with careful consideration can actually be protected fairly well.

Start at the south-west (parking lot side) of the tower. Climb crack (cams) to flake (cams) and a mantle. Up to the base of summit block with large horizontal flake, you can protect with BD #3 & #4 at the base of the flake and extend over the lip with slings. Step up and right, possible to sling a small dinner plate with prussic cord, then slightly overhung jugs to rappel chain. Hidden pockets on the summit to help with the mantle.

9 pitches when combined with Tarzan and Tingey's Terror.

1st pitch is trad. varied crack climbing to double bolts at top of first pitch. second pitch bolted and slightly run out. Traverse right from the belay until directly below the first bolt (if the rock gets brittle you are off route) and then continue up the arête above past twelve bolts to a ledge 15 feet below the summit. Climb 4th class terrain around the back of the tower to the top.

60m rope.

Descent: three raps down the Woods Route with 1 60m rope.

Start on the right side of the pillar with the big and obvious flake, head left and chimney up to the same anchor as Brodie Machine. Gear: 0.5 to 3

Starts on the east side with a high bolt. Stick clip this one and climb up. Some bolts are reachy and not all of the rock is good quality. The top has 2 anchors with chains.

You can begin by climbing to first bolt of No Nuts but is not necessary. Pull roof and continue up face or traverse left and around roof. Finish on face with anchors left or up and right.

Rack to #2

Thin tricky to protect route.

Rack small cams- #1, micro-nuts, ball nuts.

S-shaped crack behind the information sign.

A more beefed up version of Non-Technical Church Socks, Technical Knee-highs climbs a long line of bolts through a roof and finishes heavy on a dicey bulge. This route can be done as a short easy single pitch or one long, more difficult double line.

Between Power Line & Batteries Not Included

Friction slab with almost nonexistent protection.

Small cams, micro-nuts, ball nuts.

Thin & runout.

Small cams, micro-nuts, ball nuts.

chimney