Schoolroom Area Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Gerald Levi Johnson Bill Foster curt schoenfeld Ian Kuester

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1. Schoolroom Area 193 in Crag
- 1.1. Graffiti Cave 7 in Sector
- 1.2. The Ramp 11 in Sector
- 1.3. Sunday Wall 12 in Sector
- 1.4. The Basement / Pass or Flail Ledge 11 in Sector
- 1.5. Asbury Park 15 in Sector
- 1.6. Gangsta Ledge / Lower Gangsta Ledge 10 in Sector
- 1.7. The Catwalk 8 in Sector
- 1.8. College Wall 9 in Sector
- 1.9. Alcove / Upper Alcove 17 in Sector
- 1.10. Night School Wall 11 in Sector
- 1.11. The Tangerine 5 in Sector
- 1.12. 5.10 Slab 4 in Sector
- 1.13. The Great Flake 9 in Sector
- 1.14. Tree Crack 17 in Sector
- 1.15. The Schoolyard / Approach Routes 6 in Sector
- 1.16. Utahnics Wall 9 in Sector
- 1.17. Taylor's Corner 5 in Sector
- 1.18. Schoolroom South Buttress 24 in Sector
  - 1.18.1. Center Stage 11 in Sector
  - 1.18.2. Coupler Area 9 in Sector
  - 1.18.3. SO EX 4 in Sector
2. Index by grade

1. Schoolroom Area 193 routes in Crag

Summary:

Seasonality

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 41.219442, -111.923459

summary

Schoolroom features Ogden's highest concentration of established climbing along three tiers of quartzite cliffs. Access is committing but climbing is varied and rewarding for those who venture.

description

Climbing throughout the Schoolroom began long before local legends Jeff and Greg Lowe began establishing classic test piece trad lines such as Tree Crack (5.11a, early 60's) and Pass or Flail (5.11d, mid 60's). Although many trad lines were established early, little was documented prior to mid-80's. Sport development began proliferating ~2000's. Most climbs begin on the upper tier (4x4 ledge), with a few approach pitches through the lower band. Onsight climbing can be difficult and seem sandbagged. This area has west aspect, open exposure, with longer approaches and egress requiring a fair amount of navigating. Plan accordingly and strategically. The reward is an unapparelled, intimate setting with astounding views. Climbing along Ogden's Schoolroom is rewarding, well worth the effort, and offers something for everyone.

approach

Northern approach:

22nd Street Trailhead: follow Bonneville Shoreline Trail to location (41.2259478, -111.9270853). Trail marker will indicate approach trail to the Ramp.

North Alcove:

22th St, 24th st, or Lake St as for boulder field. Follow trail system south of Patriot crack boulder. Find path through bushes and gain boulderfield. Trend up & right aiming for cliff toe. Find trail below cliff, easy class III scramble through steps gain base near (41.222033, -111.924500) & left of vegetated roof.

Travers north along base to short trad approach pitches (41.2224093, -111.9264163). Pick most appealing line to gain Basement & 4x4 ledge systems.

Southern Approach:

27th Street Trailhead. Hike Bonneville Shoreline Trail to (41.216091, -111.925324) and continue through Upper Boulderfield aiming for the Crack boulder at the base of talus field. Continue up talus field aiming toward (41.2182174, -111.9234957). Once you reach Utahnics several options exist.

Opt. 1: Climb one of the Utahnics routes to gain 4X4 ledge.

Opt. 2: Start on Hyper Dependent and continue up and left on exposed class IV/ 5 easy terrain where two bolts are available.

Opt. 3: Use Approach Routes to gain 4X4 ledge.

	Grade	Style
19	School Rock Steep drip formation through multiple steps on south end of Schoolroom Alcove. V-thread or natural anchor for egress. Hike through lower boulderfield and talus field at base of Alcove aiming for (41.2213786, -111.9246142).	WI3 - 5	Ice 300ft
20	★★★ 4x4 ledge Traverse Traversing Schoolroom offers a leisurely Via Ferrata style outing including fixed cable traverses, repels, a catwalk & light scrambling. Common options include a full traverse or partial traverse with a loop at the alcove.		Via ferrata
21	★ Castle Rock / Professional installation Bouldery steep face climbing. Excellent for the grade and great top rope route. Boulders along base make this PG-13/R for leading. Several variations 10+ to 11 range. (41.2173292, -111.9257018) Rack #0.4-#2	5.10d	Mixed trad 30ft, 2

Route

Grade

Style

Selected ascents

School Rock

Steep drip formation through multiple steps on south end of Schoolroom Alcove. V-thread or natural anchor for egress. Hike through lower boulderfield and talus field at base of Alcove aiming for (41.2213786, -111.9246142).

WI3 - 5

Ice 300ft

★★★ 4x4 ledge Traverse

Traversing Schoolroom offers a leisurely Via Ferrata style outing including fixed cable traverses, repels, a catwalk & light scrambling. Common options include a full traverse or partial traverse with a loop at the alcove.

Via ferrata

★ Castle Rock / Professional installation

Bouldery steep face climbing. Excellent for the grade and great top rope route. Boulders along base make this PG-13/R for leading. Several variations 10+ to 11 range. (41.2173292, -111.9257018)

Rack #0.4-#2

5.10d

Mixed trad 30ft, 2

1.1. Graffiti Cave 7 routes in Sector

Summary:: Sport climbing and Trad climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	The Spa From the start of Graffiti Ridge, continue north along base following faint climber's trail. The Spa Crag houses 4 5-easy trad lines. These were developed by a local community member involved with SPI, S&R, and Weber State programs so please be respectful and move on if training groups are present. There are 4 routes <5.5 with fixed anchors.	5.5	Trad
2	Schoolroom Ridge Elevation gain <750ft Ridge scramble north of Graffiti Cave. Approach as for Graffiti Cave then cut north toward the cliff toe. Follow the most appealing route. Class 5 segments exist for the initiated or bypassed if desired. Egress -North: Hike northeast/ east to gain hidden valley trail -Southwest: Navigate down gully, aiming for Graffiti Cave. Either repel or scramble to base of Graffiti Cave.	Class 4	Trad
3	Graffiti Slab South facing, broken slab left of Graffiti Cave with various lines to choose. Mostly ~5.6 climbing with harder moves through midsection. Start low below the graffiti cave ledge and avoid the corner. Angle right toward belay tree. Walk off to Graffiti Cave repel or scramble to base. Standard rack	5.7	Trad 100ft
4	★★ Love Peace Weed Start in corner then move right onto steep face.	5.10d/11a M6	Sport 49ft, 5
5	MIA Climbs out from cave.	5.12a M8	Sport 59ft, 8
6	Take Care of Her Climbs face.	5.11d M7	Sport 59ft, 6
7	★★ Lunch Box RIP Follow ramp up and left, finish on steep face.	5.9 M5	Sport 49ft, 6

1.2. The Ramp 11 routes in Sector

Summary:: Sport climbing and Trad climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Kitchen Pass Located north of where trail begins ascending the ramp. This route features stair steps on moderate terrain 6 blts per pitch	5.5	Sport 110ft, 2, 6
2	Simply the best Immediately left of homecoming princess	5.7	Sport 8
3	★ Homecoming Princess Climb broken face trending right at 5th bolt.	5.9	Sport 59ft, 5
4	★★ Blue Steel Climbs up through 2 bulges.	5.9	Sport 59ft, 4
5	★★ Interstellar Pushes through small roof with sustained climbing above.	5.10a	Sport 59ft, 5
6	★ Phantasmagorical Direct Pulls left of roof near 2nd bolt.	5.9	Sport 59ft, 4
7	★★ Phantasmagorical var. Climb right face (5.7) near 2nd bolt, pulling around and continuing up arete.	5.7	Sport 59ft, 4
8	★★★ Catharsis Climb through roof then follow left leading crack on upper face. Rack to #1	5.9 PG13	Trad 59ft
9	Alienation Effect Same start as Catharsis. Trend right moving through features on upper face. Rack to #1	5.10a PG13	Trad 59ft
10	★★ FDR Obvious widening crack on right side Rack to #2	5.10	Trad 49ft
11	Dork Crack An arbitrary route. Follows flakes right trending in semi-circle back to ground level. Standard rack	5.5	Trad 66ft

1.3. Sunday Wall 12 routes in Sector

Summary:: Mostly Trad climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Super Bowl Sunday Climb flakes heading left up slab. Build belay on ledge. Descend via Sunday School belay a short distance to the south. Rack to #3	5.5	Trad 75ft
2	Sunday Staycation Same flakes as Super Bowl Sunday. Instead of moving across slab continue up and right climbing through a corner. Finish at Sunday School belay. Rack to #2	5.7	Trad 75ft
3	Take an Atheist to Church Start vertical face left of Sunday School (PG-13), or blocky arrete left of face. Move across slab and through overhanging traverse. Rack small gear to #2	5.10a	Trad 65ft
4	Sunday School Start in low angled chimney to slab. Continue up left tending hand crack to corner to belay ledge. Rack to #3	5.7	Trad 59ft
5	Slabbath Climb slabs left of Easy Like Sunday. Finish moving left to Sunday School belay. Direct Var. 5.9PG13 Rack small gear to #2	5.6	Trad 56ft
6	Easy Like Sunday Morning Climbs through obvious gully, finishing at Sunday School belay to the left. Rack to #3	5.5	Trad 49ft
7	Easter Sunday Starts in crack below slab and right of gully. Climb through the slab finishing at belay for Ritualistically Unclean. Rack to #3	5.4	Trad 79ft
8	Ritualistically Unclean Climb right side of varnished slab trending left. Finish straight up headwall to belay station. Rack to #3	5.6	Trad 75ft
9	★★★ Thank God It's Monday Began as for Ritualistically Unclean but continue straight up through left facing corner instead of climbing through the slab. Finish at belay station. Rack to #3	5.8	Trad 66ft
10	I Don't Roll On Shabbos Climbs steep head wall between Thank God It's Monday & Bloody Sunday, gear optional. FA: Colby Wayment	5.10a	Sport 59ft, 4
11	★★★ Bloody Sunday Left facing corner to bulging crack. Follow slab cracks to belay station. Rack to #3	5.8	Trad 69ft
12	★ Darkness on the Edge of Town A sizable corner at south end. Rack to #3, optional #4	5.6	Trad 75ft

1.4. The Basement 11 routes in Sector

Summary:: Sport climbing and Trad climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Settlement Crack Immediately left of Rust Pin, corner to left face finish. Rack 0.1-0.75	5.9	Trad 40ft
2	Rusty Pin Climbs the steep, lichen covered crack system just left of the Orange crush dihedral.	5.11a	Trad 40ft
3	Orange Crush Fun stemming up a dihedral below the cable traverse. Can be easily toproped.	5.9	Trad 40ft
4	CG's Project	5.13	Sport 50ft, 6
5	★★ Propulsion Follows thin seam on upper varnished face left of Pass or Flail.	5.12c	Sport 45ft, 6
6	★★★ Pass or Flail Classic route through shallow, flared jams leads to a bulge and insecure upper flared crack. Rack to #1 FA: Greg Lowe, 1965	5.11d	Trad 45ft
7	★★ I Got Stripes Seam through upper varnished face right of Pass or Flail	5.13a	Sport 40ft, 5
8	★ Monkey Wrench Delicate moves on face then around arete.	5.11b	Sport 45ft, 6
9	★★ Occam's Razor / Up & L Big holds on steep rock to a technical finish. FA: Chris Grijalva	5.12a	Sport 45ft, 6
10	Up & R Thin powerful face & arrete climbing.	5.12a	Sport 45ft, 5
11	Access Dihedral Offers an alternative access for the 4x4 ledge, or egress from the Basement. Several variations exist. Follow corner & exit left to ledge (5.8R); exit corner right, traverse roof, & finish through upper face slinging a boulder near Gagnsta Ledge access for anchor (5.7); climb broken face right of corner to 4X4 ledge & anchor boulder (~5.5) Standard rack.	5.7	Trad 40ft

1.5. Asbury Park 15 routes in Sector

Summary:: Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Rock climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★★ Detroit Muscle Leftmost route, bouldery start through overhang finishing on moderate terrain.	5.12b	Sport 39ft, 4
2	★★★ Bound for Glory Climbs arête left of face.	5.12b	Sport 59ft, 7
3	★★ Badlands 5.10 climbing on face followed by bouldery one move wonder crux. Finishes left of arête joining Bound for Glory.	5.12a	Sport 59ft, 6
4	The Notion -Direct finish variation, Badlands. Pull right through overhang, finishing on E Street upper face.	5.13a	Sport 59ft, 6
5	★★★ E Street Obvious corner located on north end of wall. Shares anchor with Bound for Glory. Rack to #3.	5.10c	Trad 59ft
6	★★ Suicide Rap Climbs large bulge.	5.12a	Sport 46ft, 5
7	★★ Rule of Three Climb Suicide Rap, finishing on right leaning seam to Thunder Road belay.	5.13b	Sport 59ft, 6
8	★★★ Thunder Road First obvious crack right of E Street. Variety of jams and bulge crux. Small gear #0-2	5.11d	Trad 59ft
9	Jungleland Near bolt 3 move left toward Thunder Road crack avoiding poor rock.	5.12a	Sport 56ft, 6
10	The Traditionalist Climb small roof and bulge above Flamingo Lane start using thin cracks. Rack small gear to #1	5.11d	Trad 49ft
11	Flamingo Lane Right trending crack & flake features lead to belay ledge above Pocket Loverboy. Rack to #3	5.7	Trad 46ft
12	Colby's Crack Direct start variation, Flamingo Lane. Easy run out low PG. Rack to #4	5.8	Trad 50ft
13	★ Pocket Loverboy Great face climbing with unique finger pocket crux.	5.11c	Sport 39ft, 4
14	★★ Stomach Your Fears Increasingly challenging climbing leads to crux at 4th bolt.	5.10b	Sport 39ft, 4
15	Gangsta Ledge Access Fixed rope on easy class 4/5 terrain to gain Upper Gangsta Ledge.		Via ferrata 25ft

1.6. Gangsta Ledge 10 routes in Sector

Summary:: Trad climbing and Sport climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★★★ Teardrops on the City Steep juggy roof to exposed arete.	5.11a/b	Sport 65ft, 6
2	★★ Tiny Giants Technical face climbing on crimps.	5.13a	Sport 45ft, 6
3	★ A Country Mile Corner right of Teardrops on the City. Moves left through roof. Shares anchor with Teardrops on the City Rack small cams to #2.	5.10a PG	Trad 65ft
4	Country Mile Var. -Variation (5.9 PG), traverse right under roof to Giants of Science anchor.	5.9	Trad 70ft
5	★★★ Giants of Science	5.11b	Sport 45ft, 6
6	★ Father Roy Climb through bulge using hand crack. Rack to #2 Giants of Science or Lucky Town anchors. Alternatively belay off ledge. Finish with Class III traverse south along ledge or top out cliff with a short pitch.	5.11a	Trad 90ft
7	★★ Lucky Town Stick Clip first bolt or bring 1 or 2 #1’s to protect initial moves. Finish on run out slab left.	5.11c	Sport 45ft, 4
8	★★★ Rattlesnake Speedway Small roof to large bulge with seam.	5.12a	Sport 65ft, 6
9	★★ Takeda Route Last route encountered before southern cable traverse. Moderate climbing to bolt, thin face crux, & quality 5.9ish finish. Standard rack to #0.75, passive gear.	5.10b	Mixed trad 65ft, 2
10	Upper Alcove Access Short route through left facing dihedral next to Takeda Route gains Upper Alcove ledge. Build natural or gear belay. Rack to #3.	5.6	Trad 20ft

1.7. The Catwalk 8 routes in Sector

Summary:: Mostly Sport climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★ Clarence on the Sax Fingers to hands crack on left hand side. Rack to #3	5.11a	Trad 45ft
2	Maria's Bed Climbs multiple steep roofs.	5.11d	Sport 55ft, 7
3	★★ Little Early-Pearly Last route before Catwalk. Slabby with short bouldery crux near 4th bolt.	5.12a	Sport 45ft, 6
4	Unknown 2	5.13a	Sport
5	Unknown 3	5.11c	Sport
6	Unknown 4	5.12c	Sport
7	★★★ BNF Cryptic, thin, & sustained.	5.11c	Sport 25ft, 4
8	Unknown 5	5.11c	Sport 25ft, 5

1.8. College Wall 9 routes in Sector

Summary:: All Sport climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Community College Broken arête FA: Colby Wayment	5.8	Sport 60ft, 10
2	Ivy League Tricky sustained climbing though 2 sharp arêtes. FA: Colby Wayment	5.11a	Sport 60ft, 8
3	★★★ College Dropout Slab-roof-face climbing. Crux through upper headwall finish. FA: Gerald Levi Johnson	5.10c	Sport 60ft, 10
4	★★★ Academic Probation Var. finish through right trending crack in upper headwall. FA: Colby Wayment	5.9/10a	Sport 60ft, 9
5	tier two #1 climb through corner to anchor FA: Colby Wayment	5.9	Sport 90ft, 10
6	★★★ Var 2 Var. from corner follow bolts left to slab/face & committing mantel. FA: Colby Wayment	5.10c	Sport 90ft, 9
7	Var 3 Climb corner finishing on left anchor FA: Colby Wayment	5.8	Sport 90ft, 9
8	Greek Letters Suck! Follow obvious bolts through stacked boulder bulges-roof-slab. Admittedly contrived the intent was to climb directly through the bulges but easier option exist. Be cautious following, run out through easy terrain.	5.10b/c	Sport 90ft, 7
9	★★★ Cum Laude Long quality pitch containing varied climbing through stacked boulder problems. Find permadraw in corner, extended slings on bolts 4,7,10 to reduce rope drag. Enjoy top out & either bring up second or lower. 70m required, walk off not recommended. FA: Gerald Levi Johnson	5.11c	Sport 110ft, 15

1.9. Alcove 17 routes in Sector

Summary:: Mostly Sport climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Unknown Left A king line for 5.10 climbing at the schoolroom. Crux at 2nd bolt, middle crux, and spicy finish. Great warm up for the area.	5.10d	Sport 11
2	Unknown Right Steady climbing through progressively difficult terrain. Crux is final moves. A must do 5.10.	5.10c	Sport 11
3	Mantle-ray Mellow climbing to exciting finish.	5.9	Sport 6
4	Feel Good Inc. Will make you "Feel Good" after getting shutdown on the harder routes in the area. Likely the easiest route on 4X4 ledge.	5.8	Sport 75ft, 6
5	★★★ Spicy Tuna Roll	5.12b	Sport 45ft, 7
6	For Whom the Bell Tolls	5.13b	Sport 50ft, 8
7	★★ Postmodernism	5.12c	Sport 65ft, 7
8	Ross Route Follows black streaked crack.	5.11b	Trad
9	The Hoax Stout arrete with at least 7 bolts.	5.12a	Sport
10	Clown'n Around Climb face through tough pinches. Finishes on No Talent A** Clown anchor. Either top out left and step right to anchor or turn arete and clip last bolt for No Talent.	5.11a	Sport 40ft, 4
11	Face of Time Upper head wall with crux near anchor. Originally started from Clown'n Around (9 bolts) but can linked from No Talent A** Clown (11 bolts).	5.11c	Sport 80ft, 11
12	★ No Talent A** Clown Decent moderate arrete climbing with tricky crux.	5.10c	Sport 55ft, 5
13	Helicopter joyride Multiple cruxes with spaced out bolts. A worthy route with great exposure!	5.12c	Sport 9
14	Airstrike Shares first bolt with helicopter joyride & branches right.	5.12a	Sport 4
15	★★★ Bad to the Bone Classic hand crack, option to finish on Universal Current or clip bolts on Raktajino. Rack to #2, doubles #1.	5.11a	Trad 90ft
16	★★ Raktajino	5.11a	Sport 90ft, 8
17	★★ Universal Current Rack to #3	5.7	Trad 90ft

1.10. Night School Wall 11 routes in Sector

Summary:: All Sport climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Strange Relationship Finishes straight to anchor on small pinnacle.	5.11a	Sport 6
2	The Word Dyno off the deck provides an exciting crux early.	5.12a	Sport 8
3	★★★ Epitaph Steady climbing leads to thoughtful crux on thin holds.	5.12c	Sport 10
4	★ Overkill	5.12d	Sport 9
5	Black Sweat Blank climbing on arete leads to 10+ climbing and more moderate climbing to finish. Possibly the most difficult sequence in Schoolroom.		SportProject 8
6	★★★ Salary Man Starts with small roof and finishes on bolted crack.	5.11c	Sport 9
7	Splendid Isolation Steep overhanging rock and bulges make up the first half of this challenging line.	5.12d	Sport 8
8	After Hours This line is used to access upper routes of Nightschool wall. Finishes on 4th bolt line up first crack encountered.	5.8	Sport 8
9	★ Insomnia Finishes on 1st bolt line leading to small pinnicle.	5.10b	Sport 6
10	★★ Vacancy	5.9	Sport 8
11	★★★ Night School	5.10a	Sport 10

1.11. The Tangerine 5 routes in Sector

Summary:: Sport climbing and Trad climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★★ Fist Full of Needles Left facing dihedral north of the Tangerine. Climbs face with crack for protection. Gear belay on top, descend south using tree crack area repel stations. Rack to #6, doubles 3-6.	5.7	Trad 75ft
2	★★★ Verona Excellent face climbing with reachy crux	5.11a	Sport 60ft, 6
3	★★★ Excess Ain't Revellion Rack to #1	5.10b	Trad 60ft
4	★★ Collateral Damage Rack #0.75- #2	5.11c	Sport 75ft, 5
5	★★★ BLU-82 Crux finish that will leave you gassed.	5.11c	Sport 80ft, 8

1.12. 5.10 Slab 4 routes in Sector

Summary:: All Sport climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★★ Ladybug	5.10b	Sport 49ft, 5
2	★★ Mantis	5.10c	Sport 49ft, 4
3	★★ Body Count	5.10a	Sport 59ft, 6
4	★★ Attack on America	5.10d	Sport 59ft, 6

1.13. The Great Flake 9 routes in Sector

Summary:: Sport climbing and Trad climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Great Flake North Standard Rack, rappel off.	5.6	Trad
2	★★★ Tigers on Vaseline Follow arete on northern end of Great Flake. Stout climbing off deck leads to moderate terrain. Stick clip recommended.	5.12c	Sport 60ft, 3
3	★ Mercury Topaz	5.12a	Sport 60ft, 6
4	★★ Mr. Styles Begin in left facing corner flakes continuing up face.	5.10c	Sport 60ft, 5
5	★★ Lickety Split	5.11c	Sport 60ft, 7
6	★★ All Quite on the Western Front Opt. small/medium nuts	5.10b	Sport 50ft, 5
7	★★ Rehab's For Quitters	5.9	Sport 50ft, 5
8	★ South Ridge Direct 1 bolt for start crux. Rack to #3.	5.10c	Mixed trad 60ft, 1
9	★★ South Ridge Climb cracks up & around arete. Rack to #3	5.6	Trad 60ft

1.14. Tree Crack 17 routes in Sector

Summary:: Sport climbing and Trad climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Psycho Corner Climb through ledges & flakes to splinter hand crack. Be cautious of loos blocks on topout.	5.10b R	Trad
2	★★★ Goodbye Blue Monday Opt. nuts or small cams	5.12a	Sport 59ft, 6
3	★★★ Breakfast of Champions	5.12d	Sport 59ft, 5
4	★★★ Tree Crack Rack small to #2.	5.11a	Trad 79ft
5	★★★ Tastes Like Burning Opt. #1	5.10d	Sport 75ft, 6
6	★★ The Wasp	5.12c	Sport 66ft, 7
7	★★ Macondo Climb to ledge at start of route. Trend left following flakes and ledges aiming for the upper corner. Rack to #3	5.9	Trad 82ft
8	★★★ Rockprodigy	5.12a	Sport 49ft, 5
9	★★ Explosivo	5.11d	Sport 75ft, 10
10	★★★ Castrated Stalker Var. pitch 2 finish (5.9): Continue from belay up left trending crack finishing on Shiny Demon. Rack to #2	5.12d	Sport 59ft, 6
11	★★★ Shiny Demon Alternate finish to Solar Flare & Rocketsauce. Traverse right along crack intersecting Rocketsauce at 8th bolt. 1 or 2 pitches. Rack to #3	5.9	Trad
12	★★★ Rocketsauce	5.11c	Sport 95ft, 10
13	Creamgenes Direct finish for Solar Flare	5.10d	Trad 69ft
14	★★ Solar Flare Rack to #2 Var. (10dR): direct variation.	5.10	Trad 82ft
15	★★ Phat Abbot	5.11c	Sport 49ft, 6
16	★★ Jammin for Jesus Small nuts/ micro cams to #2	5.10b R	Trad 49ft
17	★★★ Ethics Mixed route starting with 3 bolts. Rack to #3	5.9 PG	Mixed trad 75ft, 3

1.15. The Schoolyard 6 routes in Sector

Summary:: All Trad climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Approach Crack Approach as for Utahnics and continue north along base. Locate Tree Crack and find moderate crack. Belay off single bolt. Rack to #3.	5.7	Trad 66ft
2	Corner Overhang Var. 1 Climbs below prominent overhang. Climb west face right of overhang (PG13). Rack to #3	5.10b	Trad
3	Var. 2 Climb slab to corner in the back of overhang. Move right on horizontal crack beneath roof. Rack to #3	5.11d	Trad
4	Var. 3 Climb up and left to left most corner of the roof. Travers under roof walking cams. Exiting roof is the crux for variations 2 & 3.	5.11d	Trad
5	★ Strange Behavior Climb corner toward large detached block. Finish on diagonal finger to hand crack. Be mindful of sharp corners. Rack to #4, double #1-#3	5.9 PG	Trad
6	Fixed Line Below the Great Flake is a fixed line to access lower class broken terrain and gain 4X4 ledge.		Trad

1.16. Utahnics Wall 9 routes in Sector

Summary:: Trad climbing and Sport climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★★ Hype Dependant	5.12a	Sport 40ft, 4
2	★ Diamondback Nuts and cams to #1	5.9	Trad 40ft
3	★ Utahnics	5.10a	Sport 40ft, 5
4	★★ Holy Moroni	5.8	Sport 40ft, 5
5	★★ Oh My Nephi Var. Nephi Direct (5.8): Climbs through bulge, generally left as a top rope.	5.8	Sport 40ft, 5
6	Telestrial Rack to #3	5.7	Trad 40ft
7	Terrestrial Rack to #3	5.8	Trad 40ft
8	★ The Good Ward Rack to #2.	5.6	Trad 40ft
9	Celestial Rack to #3	5.7	Trad 40ft

1.17. Taylor's Corner 5 routes in Sector

Summary:: All Trad climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Drop Zone An ambiguous and notorious Greg Lowe route ascending a right arching corner above Utahnic wall ranging from ~10R-11+X depending on line. Standard rack, singles to #1, doubles #1-#3 Descent: Walk north to Tree Crack sector and repel from summit tree or anchors at lip.	5.11b R	Trad 120ft, 2
2	27th Street Overhang A little know route climbing an obvious feature......		Trad
3	Taylor's Corner Start on face south of large arete/ left side of corner. Pass pitons continuing up and left finishing through upper dihedral. Rack to #3	5.8	Trad 100ft
4	★★ Box Elder Salsa Start in large corner south of 27th Overhang.	5.10c	Trad 85ft
5	Laurel 5.8 C2. Thin seem through face. Moderate climbing to topout. Standard rack, multiple of small cams & nuts.	5.11c R	Trad 90ft

1.18. Schoolroom South Buttress 24 routes in Sector

Summary:: Trad climbing and Sport climbing

1.18.1. Center Stage 11 routes in Sector

Summary:: Trad climbing and Sport climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Drop the hammer	5.8	Trad
2	★★ Cosmic chain if Events	5.10b	Sport
3	Anna Begins in corner & climbs to rim. rack to #3	5.8	Trad 4
4	Filling up the Basement	5.9	Sport
5	Upstairs at the Front	5.10c	Sport
6	Doing it for the O Follow alternating bolts & horizontal breaks. Rack to #2	5.9	Mixed trad 4
7	Trophy Husband Club Clip a lone bolt continuing up face using breaks & bods for protection. Rack to #2	5.10a	Mixed trad 1
8	The Old Way Climb corner to ledge then move left through breaks & pods. Rack to #3	5.9	Trad
9	★★★ Rope Thief Climb corner then follow first set of bolts on upper headwall. Rack to #2	5.10c	Mixed trad 55ft, 4
10	★★ Forgotten Highness	5.10d	Sport
11	Under the nose of the Reaper Great warmup for the area be careful of block toward top of route.	5.10a	Sport

1.18.2. Coupler Area 9 routes in Sector

Summary:: Trad climbing and Sport climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Stinky & Grumbies 70m rope.	5.11c	Sport
2	Snail Trail Rack to #3, 70m rope.	5.8	Trad 2
3	Avoiding the Sting Rack to #3, 70m rope.	5.8	Trad
4	Thank my Wife	5.10a	Sport
5	Young Handsome & Strapping Breaks & pods lead to corner. Rack to #2	5.8	Trad
6	Probably a Lowe Rack to #2	5.7	Trad
7	Destined for Obscurity Rack to #3	5.6	Trad
8	Snake Eyes Further right from main wall. Follows a steep arete & headwall, 70m rope.	5.10d	Sport 2
9	Merciful Snake Snake Eyes var. finish. Move left at the start of pitch 2 through small corner. Move back right to gain pitch 2 anchor. Rack to #2, 70m rope.	5.7	Trad

1.18.3. SO EX 4 routes in Sector

Summary:: All Sport climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Unknown 1	5.11c	Sport
2	Unknown 2	5.11b	Sport
3	Unknown 3	5.10c	Sport
4	Total Consumption of the Mind	5.11a	Sport

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style	Area
Class 4		Schoolroom Ridge	Trad	1.1. Graffiti Cave
5.4		Easter Sunday	Trad 79ft	1.3. Sunday Wall
5.5		The Spa	Trad	1.1. Graffiti Cave
		Dork Crack	Trad 66ft	1.2. The Ramp
		Kitchen Pass	Sport 110ft, 2, 6	1.2. The Ramp
		Easy Like Sunday Morning	Trad 49ft	1.3. Sunday Wall
		Super Bowl Sunday	Trad 75ft	1.3. Sunday Wall
5.6	★	Darkness on the Edge of Town	Trad 75ft	1.3. Sunday Wall
		Ritualistically Unclean	Trad 75ft	1.3. Sunday Wall
		Slabbath	Trad 56ft	1.3. Sunday Wall
		Upper Alcove Access	Trad 20ft	1.6. Gangsta Ledge
		Great Flake North	Trad	1.13. The Great Flake
	★★	South Ridge	Trad 60ft	1.13. The Great Flake
	★	The Good Ward	Trad 40ft	1.16. Utahnics Wall
		Destined for Obscurity	Trad	1.18.2. Coupler Area
5.7		Graffiti Slab	Trad 100ft	1.1. Graffiti Cave
	★★	Phantasmagorical var.	Sport 59ft, 4	1.2. The Ramp
		Simply the best	Sport 8	1.2. The Ramp
		Sunday School	Trad 59ft	1.3. Sunday Wall
		Sunday Staycation	Trad 75ft	1.3. Sunday Wall
		Access Dihedral	Trad 40ft	1.4. The Basement
		Flamingo Lane	Trad 46ft	1.5. Asbury Park
	★★	Universal Current	Trad 90ft	1.9. Alcove
	★★	Fist Full of Needles	Trad 75ft	1.11. The Tangerine
		Approach Crack	Trad 66ft	1.15. The Schoolyard
		Celestial	Trad 40ft	1.16. Utahnics Wall
		Telestrial	Trad 40ft	1.16. Utahnics Wall
		Merciful Snake	Trad	1.18.2. Coupler Area
		Probably a Lowe	Trad	1.18.2. Coupler Area
5.8	★★★	Bloody Sunday	Trad 69ft	1.3. Sunday Wall
	★★★	Thank God It's Monday	Trad 66ft	1.3. Sunday Wall
		Colby's Crack	Trad 50ft	1.5. Asbury Park
		Community College	Sport 60ft, 10	1.8. College Wall
		Var 3	Sport 90ft, 9	1.8. College Wall
		Feel Good Inc.	Sport 75ft, 6	1.9. Alcove
		After Hours	Sport 8	1.10. Night School Wall
	★★	Holy Moroni	Sport 40ft, 5	1.16. Utahnics Wall
	★★	Oh My Nephi	Sport 40ft, 5	1.16. Utahnics Wall
		Terrestrial	Trad 40ft	1.16. Utahnics Wall
		Taylor's Corner	Trad 100ft	1.17. Taylor's Corner
		Anna	Trad 4	1.18.1. Center Stage
		Drop the hammer	Trad	1.18.1. Center Stage
		Avoiding the Sting	Trad	1.18.2. Coupler Area
		Snail Trail	Trad 2	1.18.2. Coupler Area
		Young Handsome & Strapping	Trad	1.18.2. Coupler Area
5.9	★★	Blue Steel	Sport 59ft, 4	1.2. The Ramp
	★	Homecoming Princess	Sport 59ft, 5	1.2. The Ramp
	★	Phantasmagorical Direct	Sport 59ft, 4	1.2. The Ramp
		Orange Crush	Trad 40ft	1.4. The Basement
		Settlement Crack	Trad 40ft	1.4. The Basement
		Country Mile Var.	Trad 70ft	1.6. Gangsta Ledge
		tier two #1	Sport 90ft, 10	1.8. College Wall
		Mantle-ray	Sport 6	1.9. Alcove
	★★	Vacancy	Sport 8	1.10. Night School Wall
	★★	Rehab's For Quitters	Sport 50ft, 5	1.13. The Great Flake
	★★	Macondo	Trad 82ft	1.14. Tree Crack
	★★★	Shiny Demon	Trad	1.14. Tree Crack
	★	Diamondback	Trad 40ft	1.16. Utahnics Wall
		Doing it for the O	Mixed trad 4	1.18.1. Center Stage
		Filling up the Basement	Sport	1.18.1. Center Stage
		The Old Way	Trad	1.18.1. Center Stage
5.9 PG	★★★	Ethics	Mixed trad 75ft, 3	1.14. Tree Crack
	★	Strange Behavior	Trad	1.15. The Schoolyard
5.9 PG13	★★★	Catharsis	Trad 59ft	1.2. The Ramp
5.9 M5	★★	Lunch Box RIP	Sport 49ft, 6	1.1. Graffiti Cave
5.9/10a	★★★	Academic Probation	Sport 60ft, 9	1.8. College Wall
5.10a	★★	Interstellar	Sport 59ft, 5	1.2. The Ramp
		I Don't Roll On Shabbos	Sport 59ft, 4	1.3. Sunday Wall
		Take an Atheist to Church	Trad 65ft	1.3. Sunday Wall
	★★★	Night School	Sport 10	1.10. Night School Wall
	★★	Body Count	Sport 59ft, 6	1.12. 5.10 Slab
	★	Utahnics	Sport 40ft, 5	1.16. Utahnics Wall
		Trophy Husband Club	Mixed trad 1	1.18.1. Center Stage
		Under the nose of the Reaper	Sport	1.18.1. Center Stage
		Thank my Wife	Sport	1.18.2. Coupler Area
5.10a PG	★	A Country Mile	Trad 65ft	1.6. Gangsta Ledge
5.10a PG13		Alienation Effect	Trad 59ft	1.2. The Ramp
5.10b	★★	Stomach Your Fears	Sport 39ft, 4	1.5. Asbury Park
	★★	Takeda Route	Mixed trad 65ft, 2	1.6. Gangsta Ledge
	★	Insomnia	Sport 6	1.10. Night School Wall
	★★★	Excess Ain't Revellion	Trad 60ft	1.11. The Tangerine
	★★	Ladybug	Sport 49ft, 5	1.12. 5.10 Slab
	★★	All Quite on the Western Front	Sport 50ft, 5	1.13. The Great Flake
		Corner Overhang Var. 1	Trad	1.15. The Schoolyard
	★★	Cosmic chain if Events	Sport	1.18.1. Center Stage
5.10b R	★★	Jammin for Jesus	Trad 49ft	1.14. Tree Crack
		Psycho Corner	Trad	1.14. Tree Crack
5.10b/c		Greek Letters Suck!	Sport 90ft, 7	1.8. College Wall
5.10c	★★★	E Street	Trad 59ft	1.5. Asbury Park
	★★★	College Dropout	Sport 60ft, 10	1.8. College Wall
	★★★	Var 2	Sport 90ft, 9	1.8. College Wall
	★	No Talent A** Clown	Sport 55ft, 5	1.9. Alcove
		Unknown Right	Sport 11	1.9. Alcove
	★★	Mantis	Sport 49ft, 4	1.12. 5.10 Slab
	★★	Mr. Styles	Sport 60ft, 5	1.13. The Great Flake
	★	South Ridge Direct	Mixed trad 60ft, 1	1.13. The Great Flake
	★★	Box Elder Salsa	Trad 85ft	1.17. Taylor's Corner
	★★★	Rope Thief	Mixed trad 55ft, 4	1.18.1. Center Stage
		Upstairs at the Front	Sport	1.18.1. Center Stage
		Unknown 3	Sport	1.18.3. SO EX
5.10	★★	FDR	Trad 49ft	1.2. The Ramp
	★★	Solar Flare	Trad 82ft	1.14. Tree Crack
5.10d	★	Castle Rock	Mixed trad 30ft, 2	1. Schoolroom Area
		Unknown Left	Sport 11	1.9. Alcove
	★★	Attack on America	Sport 59ft, 6	1.12. 5.10 Slab
		Creamgenes	Trad 69ft	1.14. Tree Crack
	★★★	Tastes Like Burning	Sport 75ft, 6	1.14. Tree Crack
	★★	Forgotten Highness	Sport	1.18.1. Center Stage
		Snake Eyes	Sport 2	1.18.2. Coupler Area
WI3 - 5		School Rock	Ice 300ft	1. Schoolroom Area
5.10d/11a M6	★★	Love Peace Weed	Sport 49ft, 5	1.1. Graffiti Cave
5.11a		Rusty Pin	Trad 40ft	1.4. The Basement
	★	Father Roy	Trad 90ft	1.6. Gangsta Ledge
	★	Clarence on the Sax	Trad 45ft	1.7. The Catwalk
		Ivy League	Sport 60ft, 8	1.8. College Wall
	★★★	Bad to the Bone	Trad 90ft	1.9. Alcove
		Clown'n Around	Sport 40ft, 4	1.9. Alcove
	★★	Raktajino	Sport 90ft, 8	1.9. Alcove
		Strange Relationship	Sport 6	1.10. Night School Wall
	★★★	Verona	Sport 60ft, 6	1.11. The Tangerine
	★★★	Tree Crack	Trad 79ft	1.14. Tree Crack
		Total Consumption of the Mind	Sport	1.18.3. SO EX
5.11a/b	★★★	Teardrops on the City	Sport 65ft, 6	1.6. Gangsta Ledge
5.11b	★	Monkey Wrench	Sport 45ft, 6	1.4. The Basement
	★★★	Giants of Science	Sport 45ft, 6	1.6. Gangsta Ledge
		Ross Route	Trad	1.9. Alcove
		Unknown 2	Sport	1.18.3. SO EX
5.11b R		Drop Zone	Trad 120ft, 2	1.17. Taylor's Corner
5.11c	★	Pocket Loverboy	Sport 39ft, 4	1.5. Asbury Park
	★★	Lucky Town	Sport 45ft, 4	1.6. Gangsta Ledge
	★★★	BNF	Sport 25ft, 4	1.7. The Catwalk
		Unknown 3	Sport	1.7. The Catwalk
		Unknown 5	Sport 25ft, 5	1.7. The Catwalk
	★★★	Cum Laude	Sport 110ft, 15	1.8. College Wall
		Face of Time	Sport 80ft, 11	1.9. Alcove
	★★★	Salary Man	Sport 9	1.10. Night School Wall
	★★★	BLU-82	Sport 80ft, 8	1.11. The Tangerine
	★★	Collateral Damage	Sport 75ft, 5	1.11. The Tangerine
	★★	Lickety Split	Sport 60ft, 7	1.13. The Great Flake
	★★	Phat Abbot	Sport 49ft, 6	1.14. Tree Crack
	★★★	Rocketsauce	Sport 95ft, 10	1.14. Tree Crack
		Stinky & Grumbies	Sport	1.18.2. Coupler Area
		Unknown 1	Sport	1.18.3. SO EX
5.11c R		Laurel	Trad 90ft	1.17. Taylor's Corner
5.11d	★★★	Pass or Flail	Trad 45ft	1.4. The Basement
		The Traditionalist	Trad 49ft	1.5. Asbury Park
	★★★	Thunder Road	Trad 59ft	1.5. Asbury Park
		Maria's Bed	Sport 55ft, 7	1.7. The Catwalk
	★★	Explosivo	Sport 75ft, 10	1.14. Tree Crack
		Var. 2	Trad	1.15. The Schoolyard
		Var. 3	Trad	1.15. The Schoolyard
5.11d M7		Take Care of Her	Sport 59ft, 6	1.1. Graffiti Cave
5.12a	★★	Occam's Razor	Sport 45ft, 6	1.4. The Basement
		Up & R	Sport 45ft, 5	1.4. The Basement
	★★	Badlands	Sport 59ft, 6	1.5. Asbury Park
		Jungleland	Sport 56ft, 6	1.5. Asbury Park
	★★	Suicide Rap	Sport 46ft, 5	1.5. Asbury Park
	★★★	Rattlesnake Speedway	Sport 65ft, 6	1.6. Gangsta Ledge
	★★	Little Early-Pearly	Sport 45ft, 6	1.7. The Catwalk
		Airstrike	Sport 4	1.9. Alcove
		The Hoax	Sport	1.9. Alcove
		The Word	Sport 8	1.10. Night School Wall
	★	Mercury Topaz	Sport 60ft, 6	1.13. The Great Flake
	★★★	Goodbye Blue Monday	Sport 59ft, 6	1.14. Tree Crack
	★★★	Rockprodigy	Sport 49ft, 5	1.14. Tree Crack
	★★	Hype Dependant	Sport 40ft, 4	1.16. Utahnics Wall
5.12b	★★★	Bound for Glory	Sport 59ft, 7	1.5. Asbury Park
	★★	Detroit Muscle	Sport 39ft, 4	1.5. Asbury Park
	★★★	Spicy Tuna Roll	Sport 45ft, 7	1.9. Alcove
5.12c	★★	Propulsion	Sport 45ft, 6	1.4. The Basement
		Unknown 4	Sport	1.7. The Catwalk
		Helicopter joyride	Sport 9	1.9. Alcove
	★★	Postmodernism	Sport 65ft, 7	1.9. Alcove
	★★★	Epitaph	Sport 10	1.10. Night School Wall
	★★★	Tigers on Vaseline	Sport 60ft, 3	1.13. The Great Flake
	★★	The Wasp	Sport 66ft, 7	1.14. Tree Crack
5.12d	★	Overkill	Sport 9	1.10. Night School Wall
		Splendid Isolation	Sport 8	1.10. Night School Wall
	★★★	Breakfast of Champions	Sport 59ft, 5	1.14. Tree Crack
	★★★	Castrated Stalker	Sport 59ft, 6	1.14. Tree Crack
5.12a M8		MIA	Sport 59ft, 8	1.1. Graffiti Cave
5.13a	★★	I Got Stripes	Sport 40ft, 5	1.4. The Basement
		The Notion	Sport 59ft, 6	1.5. Asbury Park
	★★	Tiny Giants	Sport 45ft, 6	1.6. Gangsta Ledge
		Unknown 2	Sport	1.7. The Catwalk
5.13b	★★	Rule of Three	Sport 59ft, 6	1.5. Asbury Park
		For Whom the Bell Tolls	Sport 50ft, 8	1.9. Alcove
5.13		CG's Project	Sport 50ft, 6	1.4. The Basement
?	★★★	4x4 ledge Traverse	Via ferrata	1. Schoolroom Area
		Gangsta Ledge Access	Via ferrata 25ft	1.5. Asbury Park
		Black Sweat	SportProject 8	1.10. Night School Wall
		Fixed Line	Trad	1.15. The Schoolyard
		27th Street Overhang	Trad	1.17. Taylor's Corner