Routes in West Virginia for selected grade

After pulling the first roof on West Pole, move left under the roof on decent hands and small feet. After turning the corner, BEWARE the chunky holds out to the left: it's loose and friable there (trust me).

Move up to a good stance at the left facing corner (crux - harder if you use the pockets/cracks on the face). Pull moves up to another good stance below the bulging rock. Move up past 3 bolts to some easier ground. Trend right and up past a gear placement or two and up to the last bolt (extended draw helpful). Move right from the bolt and up to overhanging, left-facing corner. Climb the face/corner up to the Kauffman-Cardon ledge and belay.

Great link-up to Bee Sting Corner.

You could also step left on the ledge before the 4th bolt to a two-bolt anchor that's pretty much at the start of Dufty's Popoff. Makes for another nice link-up.

Location

Start is about 20-25 feet right of the start of Skyline Traverse, just behind a small tree. Look for a small left facing corner and thin cracks/pockets on the face.

4 bolts, shuts.

A testy, two bolt route, with FIXE Super Shuts at top.

Summer 2009: bolt hangers & top anchors replaced.

Quite a ways up to the first bolt, with groundfall potential of 50 feet or more. Possibly a mixed route...some bolts, leading to a set of Metolius rap hangers at the top. Little else is known about this route.

9 bolts, finishing at a set of chains.

Bolts were removed on September 6th 2008, as requested by the first ascent party. This route is named "No Stoppin' The Burn".

A little run-out, til you get to the lip.

6 bolts, fishing at a set of ring anchors. UPDATE: New top anchor bolts were installed, Spring 2009

5 bolts, Metolius rap hangers at top. Starting at the trail, climb short vertical face to a BIG ledge, passing one bolt before the mantel. Continue across the ledge, scrambling up low angled rock to the second bolt. Climb steepening rock, passing another bolt or two, gaining a small roof. Clip another bolt, pull the roof, climb a short headwall to reach the anchors.

Starts on ledge, to the right of Barnacle Bill. 4 bolts, ring anchors at top.

All hangers removed in March 2008, due to safety concerns (aging & corroded bolts).

5.9, 7 bolts + ring anchors. Very high quality.

8 bolts, ring anchors at top. Note: A #1 Camalot was used after the last bolt during the first ascent. An excellent route, which many climbers feel is very stiff for a 5.9, probably a 5.10-.

Trad route, with cold shut anchor at top.