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Ascents in World by Juhani Connolly

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Showing all 38 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Sat 20th Jan 2018 - Maku Iwa
Chigasaki Rock Kibou Mine
5.11c Moujiki Vacance Sport Very Good
Sat 20th Jan 2018 - Maku Iwa
Chigasaki Rock Tougenkyou
5.10a Sunset Sport 9m, 3 Good
Mon 15th Jan 2018 - Maku Iwa
Chigasaki Rock Tougenkyou
5.11a Zelda Sport 7m, 3 Very Good
Bouldery to the second bolt then trivial finish. Very enjoyable

 
Sun 14th Jan 2018 - Maku Iwa
Chigasaki Rock Kibou Mine
5.11c Moujiki Vacance Sport Very Good
Figured the moves after a couple attempts and watching others for a clean ascent on my third go! Hopefully lead it next time.

 
Sat 6th Jan 2018 - Maku Iwa
Chigasaki Rock Tougenkyou
5.10a Abracadabra Sport 6m, 2 Good
Mostly a footwork problem.

 
Mon 2nd Oct 2017 - Kogashi Yama
不動滝左フェイス
5.10c ハートブレーカー/Heartbreaker Sport Good
Sat 30th Sep 2017 - Kogashi Yama
不動滝正面フェイス
5.11a Kamoshika hang Sport 20m, 5 Classic
Got up to the(coming out of the hang) crux in one go, but ended up flailing. Simple, solid route. Crux holds are hard to scope out from the bottom, but the rest is more or less as expected from inspection at the bottom

 
Sat 30th Sep 2017 - Kogashi Yama
不動滝左フェイス
5.10c rain Sport Very Good
I really enjoyed this one. I had intended to do mizumore kousuke, but took this line by accident. So I actually continued past the bolt and finished the second (easy) half of mizumore afterwards.

This one isn't in the book, which has a couple other easier variations on it? I'd say the local topo is generally better

 
5.10a ウルトラマンフェース/ultraman face Sport Very Good
Tough for the grade. Local grade is 5.10a, but the book gives it 5.9!? Possible some holds have come off?

 
5.9 競技会ルート/kyougikai route Sport Good
accidentally did a slightly harder variation at the start. There's 2 bolts, left one seems more like the correct route

 
Sat 30th Sep 2017 - Kogashi Yama
不動滝右フェイス
5.10a 凹状ハング/concave hang Sport Average
mostly a one-move wonder, didn't bother to red-point

 
5.10a 凹状フェース/Concave face Sport Good
Loose rock. Would be trivial but the holds are all facing the "wrong way" making it interesting

 
5.9 猫マタギパート1/neko-matagi part 2 Sport Good
Good warm up. Unclear as to what's on

 
5.10b 猫マタギパート1/neko-matagi part 1 Sport Very Good
Enjoyable techy climbing, would recommend

 
Mon 30th May 2016 - Kawamata
Kōmori Iwa- B Block
5.10b Mugibatake Sport Very Good
Unusually for the area, chunky reliable footholds available

 
5.10a Miyazaki Midori Sport Very Good
Fun route with some unique formations

 
Mon 30th May 2016 - Kawamata
Kōmori Iwa - A Block
5.10a Shinobu Yoshi Sport Very Good
Fun overhanging route

 
Mon 30th May 2016 - Kawamata
Kōmori Iwa - D Block
5.9 Moonbeam Sport Good
Felt hard for the grade

 
Mon 30th May 2016 - Kawamata
Kōmori Iwa- C Block
5.10a Iki no ee Yatsu Sport Good
Sat 16th Apr 2016 - Komochi Yama
Shishi Iwa
5.8 Shishi Iwa
1 lead by Self
2
3
4 lead by Self
5 lead by Self
Trad 90m Very Good
Nice airy route lots of slabby moves

 
Thu 11th Feb 2016 - Maku Iwa
Upper Area 上部エリア Silent valley
5.10a You can Sport 3 Very Good
Had some difficulty finding holds around the second bolt

 
5.9 Night traveller Sport 2
The guidebook says 5.9+ or 5.10d without using the right wall. I only used the wall at the start and it wasn't necessary, but the difficulty hardly seemed up to 5.10d

 
Thu 11th Feb 2016 - Maku Iwa
Chigasaki Rock Kibou Mine
5.10c Veterans (kikanhei) (帰還兵[kikanhei]) Sport 6m, 3 Very Good
Figured out some better beta including an easy position to clip the third draw from and finally got this great route

 
Sun 31st Jan 2016 - Maku Iwa
Chigasaki Rock Tougenkyou
5.8 Inchiki Suruna Sport 9m, 5 Good
Nice face climb

 
5.10c とけいワニ Sport 4 Very Good
After failing on lead, worked out the beta to this enjoyable but delicate slab. Will probably try for the redpoint soon

 
5.7 Silk Road Sport 10m, 4 Good
A bit damp but an enjoyable slab climb with plenty of good holds

 
Sun 17th Jan 2016 - Maku Iwa
Chigasaki Rock Ali Baba area
5.10b Ali Baba Sport 10m, 3 Very Good
Thin rails all the way up. Great climb

 
5.10c アニー[annie] Sport 4 Good
route isn't super-clear based on the books topo. It appears to be sharing the first 2-3 bolts with magic lamp, then heading diagonally left to join anne at the 3rd bolt

 
Thu 14th Jan 2016 - Jogasaki
Family Crack Area Hidari Face
5.9 Sam Crack Trad Good
Thu 14th Jan 2016 - Maku Iwa
Chigasaki Rock Kibou Mine
5.10c Veterans (kikanhei) (帰還兵[kikanhei]) Sport 6m, 3 Very Good
4 attempts in, still falling at least once per attempt but enjoying it

 
Thu 14th Jan 2016 - Maku Iwa
Chigasaki Rock Ali Baba area
5.10b Ali Baba Sport 10m, 3
need to come back to this. Fell after the crux and last bolt losing the onsight

 
Thu 14th Jan 2016 - Maku Iwa
Chigasaki Rock Makoron Land
5.10a New Arai Sport 8m Average
5.10b Christmas Rose Sport 8m, 3 Very Good
5.10b Mazo Okesa Sport 8m, 3 Good
Dec 2015 - Maku Iwa
Chigasaki Rock Tougenkyou
5.10b Youhandoki Sport Average
Sun 4th Jan 2015 - Maku Iwa
Chigasaki Rock Makoron Land
5.10b Christmas Rose Sport 8m, 3 Very Good
2015 - Maku Iwa
Chigasaki Rock Tougenkyou
5.10a Aborigine Sport 6m, 2 Good
2015 - Jogasaki
Akane no Hama
5.10a Lucky Stone Trad Very Good
After doing the crux on toprope a couple of times I went for it and got it! Crux is getting over the roof. The fist jam I used to get over it was one of the most satisfying things in my climbing career to date!

 

Showing all 38 ascents.

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