Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
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Unknown | ||||||||
7+ | ★★ Reibekuchen | Westpfalz | Thu 9th May 2013 | |||||
8 | Härte 7 | Westpfalz | Sat 11th May 2002 | |||||
8+ | Kanalratte | Westpfalz | Sat 11th May 2013 | |||||
Zwischenreingedrängelt. Hard to stay 'en route' and not climb on the neighbouring routes. #2go
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7+ | Goldener Oktober | Westpfalz | Tue 24th Apr 2018 | |||||
8+ | Privatweg | Westpfalz | Wed 1st May 2002 | |||||
8+ | Direkte Klammkante (Klammkante) | Westpfalz | Sat 11th May 2013 | |||||
Nice!
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6b E5 | Cryogenics | Cheddar | Sun 16th May 2010 | |||||
8 | ★★ Ulis Ochsenfahrt | Westpfalz | ★ Good | Sun 16th Jun 2013 | ||||
Not as good as I had hoped. Stupid first bolt, bouldery crux and easy climbing to the top. Albatros and Sick Boy are a lot nicer.
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9- | ★ Blockverschneidung | Westpfalz | ★ Good | Sat 11th May 2013 | ||||
Feels and climbs just like at 'home' in Ettringen. Palming and bridging your way up a steep dihedral. Can't see how to climb the route without the pinscars though. Maybe next time with the crack gloves the other way round... hmmm!
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8+ | ★★ Kreuz Bube | Westpfalz | ★★ Very Good | Fri 11th Sep 2009 | ||||
Trad | ||||||||
5.11c | ★★★ Levitation 29 | 300m, 20 | Red Rock | ★★ Very Good | Sun 28th Mar 2010 | |||
Led all the harder pitches. Good classic. Liked the 1st, 2nd and 5th pitches best. Stupid belay after p5. Why not continue another 15/20 m and climb the entire crack??? So, be smart and take 20 draws and finish the crack the way it should be done.
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8 | ★★★ Jahreswechsel | 9 | Westpfalz | Fri 10th May 2013 | ||||
Fun route with two cruxes. Nice and technical in stead of bouldery.
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8 | ★★★ Superlative | 32m, 8 | Westpfalz | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 4th Aug 2011 | |||
Super! #hard
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8 8+ | ★★ Rotes Auge | 28m, 7 | Westpfalz | ★ Good | Mon 21st Apr 2014 | |||
7a/+. kalte Finger. Macht die Griffe sauber!
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7+ | ★★ Reibeisen | 6 | Westpfalz | Thu 9th May 2013 | ||||
Nice moves and good rock. XIII-. #hard
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7+ | ★★★ Canapé (Canape) | 40m, 6 | Bohuslän | Sun 12th Aug 2018 | ||||
Only first length. 2nd was wet/a climber was working it on a static. Slab with holds. More about where the bolts are then about the climbing. Which is a pity.
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7+ | ★★★ Gamzatti | 30m, 5 | Bohuslän | Thu 9th Aug 2018 | ||||
7- | Grisehale | 18m, 4 | Bohuslän | Fri 3rd Aug 2018 | ||||
One move wonder towards the belay. Mixed. 6b+?
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8 | ★★ Fliegerwandl | 22m, 3 | Weser-Leine-Bergland | Thu 1st Jun 2000 | ||||
8 | ★★ Lall im All | 20m, 3 | Westpfalz | ★ Good | Fri 11th Sep 2009 | |||
8 | ★★ Mäandra | 35m, 3 | Westpfalz | ★ Good | Sun 12th May 2013 | |||
One move wonder difficulty-wise. Nice wall for a starter and easy crack to finish with slap/dyno inbetween. First tried 19 years ago. #2go
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8+ | ★★★ Flirtin with Disaster (Flirting with disaster) | 2 | Ettringen | ★★ Very Good | Sat 1st Oct 2011 | |||
One of the best routes in Ettringen. Starts with overhanging crack (hands) and ends with a boulder.
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6b+ | ★★★ Bianca Parete | 30m | Valle Orco | Wed 29th Jul 2015 | ||||
1 tricky move. Slipped off humid holds.
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8- | Wer Rastet der Rostet (Wer rastet rostet) | Ettringen | Mon 17th Sep 2018 | |||||
8- | ★★ Le Mitard | 17m | Ettringen | Tue 29th Nov 2016 | ||||
Toprope rep. N #soft
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8 | Mein lieber Schwan | Westpfalz | Sat 15th Jun 2013 | |||||
O, the joy of having enough reach in the Pfalz... ;-).
Please brush the holds after you've finished - it's fairly essential on sandstone to have clean holds - as well as it being a gesture of decency towards the next climber. Bitte nach dem Klettern die Griffe putzen.
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7+ | ★★ Zu Früh Gelacht | Westpfalz | Wed 25th Apr 2018 | |||||
Fun route. Don’t forget the cam for the upper crack (several sizes fit, a C3 0,5 or 0,75 can be placed at the top of the crack).
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7+ | ★★★ Moderne Zeiten | 900m | Marmolada | Thu 15th Aug 2013 | ||||
Multipitch. Circa 27 pitches in 12 hours. Very cold and not easy to find the route because of the fog/clouds. So it took us long - too long ... ('5 minuten bis zur letzter abfahrt...'). Not as good as I had hoped. A modern bolt-protected route would have nicer, safer, more logical (yes) and just plain better climbing. The line tries to find the best climbing, but is compromised by the need to go where the pro is. Which is just not the best line. Its not granite with obvious lines, so get over it
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6a | ★★ Mister Green | 30m | Valle Orco | Wed 29th Jul 2015 | ||||
Genial!
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6b+ | ★★ Cochise | 30m | Valle Orco | Wed 29th Jul 2015 | ||||
Super
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6 | ★★ Ulsprickan | 25m | Bohuslän | Wed 28th Aug 2019 | ||||
6 | ★★ Machete | 15m | Bohuslän | Thu 2nd Aug 2018 | ||||
7 | ★★★ Trampoline | 25m | Bohuslän | Sun 12th Aug 2018 | ||||
6+ | ★★★ Bagatell | 25m | Bohuslän | Sun 12th Aug 2018 | ||||
7- | ★★★ Granitbiten | 25m | Bohuslän | Fri 3rd Aug 2018 | ||||
Nice line, but average climbing.
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7 | ★★★ Trampoline | 25m | Bohuslän | Sun 12th Aug 2018 | ||||
6 | ★★ Machete | 15m | Bohuslän | Thu 2nd Aug 2018 | ||||
Really Nice!
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7 | ★★★ Masken | 15m | Bohuslän | Tue 7th Aug 2018 | ||||
7 | ★★★ Pyspunka | 20m | Bohuslän | Tue 7th Aug 2018 | ||||
Easy and fun. 6b+/c
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7+ | ★★★ Än Du'rå Hörnet | 15m | Bohuslän | Sun 12th Aug 2018 | ||||
7+ | ★★★ Hassan Chop | 25m | Bohuslän | Sun 5th Aug 2018 | ||||
2 meter hard. Rest is 6b. Beautiful rock, but a lot of chalk on the holds. Please brush!
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6- | ★★★ Bergkirstis Polska | 35m | Bohuslän | Thu 9th Aug 2018 | ||||
6 | ★★★ En liten bit granit | 15m | Bohuslän | Thu 2nd Aug 2018 | ||||
Fun climb. #FA
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6 | ★★★ Tiega for guld (Tiega för guld) | 40m | Bohuslän | Wed 28th Aug 2019 | ||||
6a E4 6a | ★★★ Calvary | 19m | Stanage | Sun 1st Mar 2009 | ||||
One hard move (the mantle) - the rest of the route is more of a mental problem then difficult climbing.
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6a E3 6a | ★★ Telli | 10m | Stanage | Sat 14th Jun 2008 | ||||
6a E5 6a | ★★★ The Hebridean (The Herbrudean) | 30m | Outer Hebrides | Thu 1st Jun 2017 | ||||
E5 6a #2go
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5c E3 5c | ★★ Four Pebble Slab | 12m | Froggatt Edge | Thu 18th May 2017 | ||||
6a E3 6a | ★★★ Kafoozalem | 36m | Bosigran | Wed 12th May 2010 | ||||
7 | ★★★ Tor Line | 60m | Bohuslän | ★ Good | Sat 11th Aug 2018 | |||
Short but surprisingly hard over the roof, despite the perfect handjams.
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7- | ★★★ Melange | 18m | Bohuslän | ★ Good | Sat 11th Aug 2018 | |||
6- | ★★★ Villskudd | 40m | Bohuslän | ★ Good | Tue 1st Aug 2017 | |||
Not that special.
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6 | ★★★ Mallorol | 35m | Bohuslän | ★ Good | Sat 11th Aug 2018 | |||
One tricky move before the roof.
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8+ | ★★ Seepferdchen | Ettringen | ★★ Very Good | Sun 20th Sep 2009 | ||||
Beautifull undercling/crack. Thank god they did not bolt it. Strange, there's no really hard moves, but took several tries to get it done - pumpy route.
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8- | ★★ Le Mitard | 17m | Ettringen | ★★ Very Good | Sun 5th Sep 2010 | |||
Nice crack.
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8- | ★★ The Cabibo Kobayashi Maskawa (Mixing Matrix) | 15m | Bohuslän | ★★ Very Good | Fri 30th Aug 2019 | |||
Very nice route with surprisingly solid climbing
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6b E5 6b | ★★★ Strapadictomy | 9m | Froggatt Edge | ★★ Very Good | Wed 24th May 2017 | |||
Superb
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5.11a | ★★★ Crack Attack | Indian Creek Canyon | ★★ Very Good | Sun 4th Apr 2010 | ||||
Feels like Ettringen.
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6a E4 6a | ★★ Indoor Fisherman | 10m | Froggatt Edge | ★★ Very Good | Tue 23rd May 2017 | |||
Cool arete
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5.12- | ★★★ Anunnaki (Annunaki) | 15m | Indian Creek Canyon | ★★ Very Good | Thu 15th Apr 2010 | |||
fun. 2nd go. Botched onsight (cold fingers...)
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5.11d | ★★★ Dos Hermanos | 29m | Indian Creek Canyon | ★★ Very Good | Wed 7th Apr 2010 | |||
Nice varied route. One tricky move on the middle part and fun roof. #soft
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6- | ★★★ Prismaster | 50m | Bohuslän | ★★★ Classic | Tue 1st Aug 2017 | |||
Very beautiful! #hard
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5.11 | ★★★ Rock Lobster | 35m | Indian Creek Canyon | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 9th Apr 2010 | |||
Ever thinner...
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Sport | ||||||||
7b | ★★ Großes Geschenk | 40m, 21 | Leonidio | ★ Good | Thu 30th Nov 2017 | |||
Good route up the impressive headwall with a distinct crux. Before and afterwards not that difficult. Fantastic finger-shredding rock and outstanding position on the headwall. Great fun! #soft
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7a+ | ★ Vaskina Highway | 35m, 20 | Leonidio | Wed 29th Nov 2017 | ||||
Long outing up the golden wall/dihedral in the setting sun.
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6c | ★★ Mecano en Dios (L1+L2) (Mecano en dios) | 48m, 19 | Chulilla | Sun 25th Mar 2018 | ||||
7a+ | ★★★ Oyk | 37m, 18 | Leonidio | Fri 24th Nov 2017 | ||||
Lovely red & sharp crimpy rock. Big pitch with fun end. Good route!
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7a+ | ★★★ Boubouki Ext (Boubouki) | 38m, 18 | Leonidio | Sun 6th Jan 2019 | ||||
Not easy at the crux. Powerful climbing on polished holds and footholds. Nice exposure and length. Good route. Thank god for cold and crisp conditions today. #hard
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7a+ 7a | ★★★ Psili Makilopardali | 32m, 18 | Leonidio | Tue 21st Nov 2017 | ||||
7a | ★★ Triologie | 30m, 18 | Geyikbayırı | Sun 2nd Nov 2008 | ||||
7b | ★★★ Pontiki Sto Tiri Ext (Pontiki Sto Tyri) | 38m, 18 | Leonidio | ★★ Very Good | Tue 28th Nov 2017 | |||
Polished in the crux. Not easy at all/well harder than its neighbourto the right. Great and easy pocket-pulling after the kneebar. Fun route!
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7b | ★★★ Rauxa | 40m, 18 | Siurana | ★★ Very Good | Wed 3rd Apr 2013 | |||
Followed the crack al the way in stead of going right on the crimps to first belay. Don't stop at first belay, cause the extension is good and not very hard. Pumped!
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7a+ | ★★ Hazewee à Laeken | 35m, 17 | Rochers de Freyr | Sat 6th May 2006 | ||||
7b | ★★ El Americano | 35m, 17 | Chulilla | ★★★ Classic | Fri 23rd Mar 2018 | |||
Fantastic rock. Must do climb. Big fun, big smile.
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7b+ 7b | ★★ Snickers | 35m, 16 | Leonidio | Sun 6th Jan 2019 | ||||
7b+ | ★★★ El Corral De La Tia Poya | 25m, 16 | Chulilla | Sat 3rd Feb 2018 | ||||
Made it to the middle of the dihedral, and screwed the onsight bu trusting the friction. Very polished - should not have tried in the sun.... #hard
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7a | ★★★ La lévrotte (La Levrotte) | 35m, 16 | Saint-Léger du Ventoux | ★★ Very Good | Fri 6th Nov 2009 | |||
Great climb.
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7a 7a/a+ | ★★★ Thanks George | 25m, 16 | Kyparissi | ★★ Very Good | Mon 27th Nov 2017 | |||
Fantastic line. Not easy at all, 7a+ in ‘18 guidebook. First route in Greece together with Kyparissi on which I felt the polish was starting to spoil the fun. Bit humid today which did not help. Serious contender for an upgrade to 7a+.
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7a+ 7b | ★★★ Animula vagula blandula | 34m, 16 | Chulilla | ★★ Very Good | Sat 11th Mar 2017 | |||
Beautiful wall in bottom part with way easier finish. Very good route!
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7a+ | ★★★ Jah Jah City (Jaja City) | 40m, 16 | Geyikbayırı | ★★ Very Good | Sun 2nd Nov 2008 | |||
6c+ | ★★ Mezarlarınıza Tüküreceğim (Mezarlariniza Tükürücem) | 32m, 16 | Geyikbayırı | ★★★ Classic | Sat 25th Oct 2008 | |||
Nice one!
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7a+ 7a/a+ | ★★★ Tsoutsouni | 25m, 15 | Leonidio | Wed 22nd Nov 2017 | ||||
7a 6c+ | ★★ Tsibouri Extension | 25m, 15 | Leonidio | Sun 26th Nov 2017 | ||||
Balancy crimpy and not that easy at all.
Please brush the excess chalk off the holds after climbing! |
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7a | ★★★ Kakestykket | 30m, 15 | Flatanger | Tue 21st Aug 2018 | ||||
Knowing how to jam helps
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7b+ | ★★★ Revuelta En El Frenopatico (Revuelta en el frenopático) | 30m, 15 | Chulilla | ★★★ Classic | Thu 1st Feb 2018 | |||
Soft but beautiful. Perfect crimpy broccoli rock. Unfortunately an escape to the right is possible a couple of bolts below the anchor.
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7b | ★★★ Lycian Highway | 35m, 15 | Geyikbayırı | ★★★ Classic | Thu 30th Oct 2008 | |||
7a | ★★★ Purgandus Populus | 40m, 15 | Siurana | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 3rd Mar 2012 | |||
O yes! Glad I did this stellar pitch - must do route in Siurana.
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7a+ | ★★ Ntinta | 22m, 14 | Leonidio | Tue 1st Jan 2019 | ||||
Very nice route. Crux is going over the bulge with small holds and footholds. Glory jugs/colonette to finish. Fun!
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7a | ★★ Beso de Cobra | 30m, 14 | Siurana | ★ Good | Tue 2nd Apr 2013 | |||
Fun crack climbing. Love it. 6b+? #soft
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6c+ | ★★ Semazen | 32m, 14 | Geyikbayırı | ★ Good | Tue 20th Mar 2007 | |||
7a+ | ★★ Hayat Çok Uzun | 32m, 14 | Geyikbayırı | ★★★ Classic | Mon 3rd Nov 2008 | |||
Beauty!
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7a+ | ★★★ Sendero sinuoso | 35m, 14 | Chulilla | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 11th Mar 2017 | |||
Close to perfection!
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7a | ★★ Le Chmatex | 40m, 13 | Chateauvert | Thu 4th May 2017 | ||||
Indoor climbing wall style. Polished. Good moves, but très physique. #hard
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7a | ★★ Sokolatina | 22m, 13 | Leonidio | Tue 1st Jan 2019 | ||||
Polished and tricky crux. Worst route done in Leonidio this trip?
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7a+ | ★★ Sympatiki | 30m, 13 | Leonidio | Fri 24th Nov 2017 | ||||
Sharp crimps to easier climbing to a crux on pockets. Good, but not as good as both routes to the right.
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7a | ★★ Coño Paco | 28m, 13 | El Chorro | Tue 31st Dec 2002 | ||||
6b+ | ★★ Tururú que no te vi (Tururu que no te vi) | 30m, 13 | Chulilla | Fri 2nd Feb 2018 | ||||
Fantastic rock!
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7a | ★★★ Periclónica (L1) (Periclonica) | 35m, 13 | Chulilla | Fri 23rd Mar 2018 | ||||
6c | Revuelta en Frenopatico (Revuelta en el Frenopático) | 13 | El Chorro | Sat 28th Dec 2002 | ||||
7a | ★★★ Richar line | 30m, 13 | Chulilla | Sun 12th Mar 2017 |