Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Top rope | |||||
15 | Bindun
Start at Fisherman's Basket but swing right onto the blocky face and up the corner to the top. Protection looks marginal... Top-rope only! FA: Gary Rankin, 1991 | 10m | South Coast | ||
24 | ★★ Clear Felling
This is the pillar between the routes. Top rope only. No bolts please due to proximity to other routes. FA: TR: Terry Svingen, 2003 | 13m | Burleigh Heads National Park | ||
22 | Dunno
A one move wonder, but what a move! Hard, technical face with big hueco immediately to the right of Grunt FA: Grant Edser, 2000 | 10m | Redcliffs | ||
Hard Won (open project)
A hard but contrived arête which uses only the most difficult moves | 10m | Redcliffs | |||
17 | ★ This Won
Face climb just right of arête FA: Phil Box, 2000 | 10m | Redcliffs | ||
16 | ★ Other Won
Face and thin crack climb up the easiest line on the face FA: Steve Waite & Alison Greenhalgh, 1998 | 10m | Redcliffs | ||
20 | ★ Which Won
Up thin crimpers and side pulls to smears avoiding the easier crackline of Other Won. FA: Grant Edser, 2000 | 10m | Redcliffs | ||
16 - 19 | Twin Paranoia
On the seaward side of the boulder, climb the L-leaning twin cracks (R-one wide, L-one thin) L of the overhang to the top. Natural pro and tree belay. FA: Steve Baskerville & Jason Shaw (TR), 1998 | 7m | The Citadel | ||
19 | Heartburn
| 8m | Atherton Tablelands | ||
20 | Cheese Gobbler
| 14m | Atherton Tablelands | ||
18 | ★ Cheese Grater
| 17m | Atherton Tablelands | ||
24 | ★★ Cosmic Winch
| 12m | Coningham | ||
18 | Mononeuron
| 23m | Fruehauf | ||
24 | Leger Frenzy
| 18m | Fruehauf | ||
27 | Jack Jumper
| 15m | Fruehauf | ||
26 | Mozzie Fodder
| 15m | Fruehauf | ||
25 | This is Steep Mum
| 18m | Fruehauf | ||
5.4 | Chicken's Choice
| 12m | Lily Pond | ||
5.5 | The Tits
| 12m | Lily Pond | ||
5.9 | Staircase Direct
| 12m | Lily Pond | ||
5.3 | Staircase
| 12m | Lily Pond | ||
5.9 | ★★ The Nose
| 14m | Lily Pond | ||
5.5 | ★★ The Pig
| 14m | Lily Pond | ||
5.1 | Exit Route
| 8m | Lily Pond | ||
12 | Not Straining Rail
Incorrectly written up as Straining Rail which is located downhill on the Chain buttress. Northwest Vic guide in 2000 only recorded the routes Sze and Drain Pipe and mentioned a few lines to the right of the later on this face. Very popular beginners climb. Could be Trad but very poor pro. Start in the corner on L (It's cheating to use the big boulder behind you) and then head straight up the wall. | 20m | Camels Hump | ||
12 | Dog Rock
| 10m | Inner Melbourne | ||
12 | Number One
| 12m | Inner Melbourne | ||
15 | Sonufa
| 12m | Inner Melbourne | ||
12 | Number Two
| 12m | Inner Melbourne | ||
22 | Wodka
| 14m | Inner Melbourne | ||
17 | Mt Bob
| 15m | Inner Melbourne | ||
20 | 39 Cents Of Glory
On the main slab is an obvious white water streak. Follow this over the steepening and past some dubious flakes. No protection! FA: Iain Sedgman, Peter Watson & Peter Cunningham, 1979 | 30m | Beechworth Area | ||
18 | Little Crack
The short crack at the left end of the Flake Off wall is a "muck around boulder problem". FA: Iain Sedgman & Peter Cunningham, 1979 | 6m | Beechworth Area | ||
14 | The Arena
The western face of the outcrop known as Dog Face, at the top of the hill above Wagstaffe General Store. FFTRA Will Monks, Peter Monks, Dec 96. FA: Will Monks & Peter Monks, 1996 | 15m | Bouddi National Park | ||
20 | ★ 15+ L Variant
FFTRA Will Monks Dec 96 FA: Will Monks | 12m | Bouddi National Park | ||
21 | ★ 15+
FFTRA Peter Monks, Will Monks Dec 96. The crack starting out the roof at the L end of the orange wall 200m above the southern end of Lobster Beach. FA: Peter Monks & Will Monks | 12m | Bouddi National Park | ||
17 | Moss City
At the R end of the slabs above the beach known as Little Lobster, 150m N of Lobster Beach. Was a little slick on the FFTRA! Approx 30-50m N of the more recently established Lobster Cave routes. FA: FTRA Will Monks & Peter Monks, 1996 | 18m | Bouddi National Park | ||
22 | ★ Temper Temper
At right hand end of short wall. Boulder up rounded flakes. Top rope or solo only. FA: Paul Riviere (solo), 2002 | 6m | Woy Woy | ||
15 | SB#1
Start: P1 10m right of S at ground level. P2 from same ledge as SB#2 and SB#3.
Belay off immovable blocks 5m back with directional rusty carrot near edge (on right facing out). FA: Steve Babka | 23m, 2, 3 | Evans Crown | ||
16 | ★ SB#2
Start: In middle of SB# ledge. Mildly overhung start then up scoopy slab with 3 rusty carrots. Belay off immovable blocks 5m back with directional rusty carrot near edge (on left facing out). FA: Steve Babka | 6m, 3 | Evans Crown | ||
21 | SB#3
Start: On right of SB# ledge. Desperate overhanging start then up easier slab past 2 rusty carrots. Belay off immovable blocks 5m back with directional rusty carrot near edge (on left facing out). FA: Steve Babka | 5m, 2 | Evans Crown | ||
12 | Headache
Start: Slabby arete toward the left end. Probably goes up the giant slabby block which is clean and rough in the middleand steeper and lichenous at the top. Start only possible from the lower left as the middle starts with a 3-5m overhang. Probably also soloed, with only a few potential RPs in a seam on the left. FA: J.Friend, 1970 | 20m | Evans Crown | ||
25 | Top Rope Arete | 7m | Bridle Rock | ||
22 | Pizzas Over The Pilbara
| 11m | Newman | ||
20 | ★ Keepings Off
Start below the overhang midway between 'Froth' and 'Arrow'. Straight up, keeping off 'Froth' and 'Arrow'. | 18m | Kangaroo Point | ||
16 | ★ Ring Around the Moon
Start 1m R of 'Dinosaur'. Marked "RAM". Up arete to overhang then escape R and top out. FA: Bernie Corfield & John Jones, 1980 | 18m | Kangaroo Point | ||
23 | ★★ Sa-raie
Start between 'Surrender' and 'Love Hurts'. FA: Justin Apeggio | 18m | Kangaroo Point | ||
21 | Foreclosure of a Dream
Start: Below big overhanging block Left of GR. Up easy crack to below the big roof & RB. Layback out right onto small ledge and climb nice crack to grassy ledge. Up sustained wall on right of sharp arete, with good gear in horizontal cracks, to loose top. NB: This route needs an anchor, as Council have since shotcreted the top 2m of cliff and established the parkland above. FA: Simon Hennig (TR) & Neil Montieth, 1993 | 20m, 1 | Kangaroo Point | ||
19 | ★ Toby's Mum
A TR route off Basalt Assault's chains (use quickdraws on chain to reduce wear). Start 4m L of Basalt Assault with a layback hanging L from the granite xenolith. Layback up xenolith slab to a mantle shelf. Undercling, traversing R off mantle shelf on small footholds. Up L to nice jug. Step R onto xenolith and straight up on extremely fingery holds to finish 1m L of BA's chains. FA: Chris Bell & Matt Brown, 2000 | 14m | Castle Hill | ||
23 | ★ Quark
Start on right side of obvious arete move up arete to finish. (Large flake on left is loose) Will require long anchor set-up FA: Douglas Hockly, 1999 | 17m | Castle Hill | ||
24 | Pumping
| 12m | Atherton Tablelands | ||
26 | As Good As It Gets
| 12m | Atherton Tablelands | ||
22 | Close Suspects
A leaning corner above the water at the lefthand end. | 10m | Canberra | ||
20 | ★★ Downward Bound
Thin crack just left of the large dark overhang near the waters edge, ~3 m left of Romance in Cow Paddocks. | 10m | Canberra | ||
20 | ★ Romance in Cow Paddocks
Climb up to the niche beneath the overhang, then left and up. | 10m | Canberra | ||
24 | Romance in Cow Paddocks Righthand Variant
| 10m | Canberra | ||
18 | ★★ Prosthetics
The undercut corner, then a small rooflet and up the left-facing corner above. Starts at the left side of the rockfall scar, 5 meters right of Downward Bound. Double anchor bolts on the top of the prow. | 15m | Canberra | ||
20 | ★★ Blurred Vision
A substantial rockfall in 2017 removed most of the original first half of this climb. The route is still climbable although may have some loose rock and dirt for a while. Start on the undercut wall behind the tree. Up the wall (leave the poor tree alone) to a ledge. Up the groove, then left onto the arete and up. A good finish on big buckets. | 13m | Canberra | ||
15 | ★ The Hanging Garden
In the heavily vegetated corner. Easily up wall to the ledge, then up the bottomless chimney. Not done much these days... | 11m | Canberra | ||
20 | ★ Robot Monster
A body length of good moves. Climb up to the ledge, then up the right wall of the chimney to another ledge then finish up to the right. | 12m | Canberra | ||
20 | ★ Dead Fish Crack
Start at the left end of the main wall beneath the lookout, a couple of meters right of the corner. Head up and left on the ramp, pulling through onto the wall above past an old piton, and up through the flared hand crack. Above here it trends up and right to the bolted anchor shared with Standing Room Only.
| 13m | Canberra | ||
21 | ★★ Standing Room Only
Start left of the small tree beneath a rooflet. Sustained face climbing the whole way, with a difficult crux, leads to a roof guarding the anchors. When pulling the roof, be gentle with the jugs, which have some fracture lines - belayer take precautions. | 13m | Canberra | ||
22 | ★ Scrofula
Marked with a faded "S" and starts a meter or so left of Closed Circuit beneath a vertical groove. Nominally follows the vauge groove, then right for a few moves, then finish straight up. Arbitrary and challenging to find moves that aren't part of Standing Room Only or Closed Circuit. | 13m | Canberra | ||
20 | ★ Closed Circuit
Start is marked with a white "CC" beneath the blunt arete to the left of the large overhang. Move from out under the starting rooflet then continue up the arete with some tricky moves to get onto the face above. | 11m | Canberra | ||
19 | ★ Charlotte Sometimes
The corner crack running up the left side of the the large overhang, approximately 1 meter right of Closed Circuit and using a few holds on the arete. | 11m | Canberra | ||
23 | Charlotte Sometimes Variant Finish
Step right from the corner once you are above the overhang and climb the groove up and right. | 11m | Canberra | ||
19 | ★ Robbins Memorial Route
Climb the arete beneath the central crack in the large overhang, 3 meters right of Charlotte Sometimes. Traverse left beneath the roof and finish up Charlotte Sometimes. | 13m | Canberra | ||
22 | ★ Extremely Anal
Up the arete beneath the roof, then reach through to jam the crack and make a few bouldery moves to transition into a layback on the wide section, before face climbing to the top. | 13m | Canberra | ||
20 | ★ Vermin Man vs Sludge Monster
A boulder problem consisting of a short rising traverse leftwards to the overhang. | 3m | Canberra | ||
24 | ★ Uncut Pork
A bouldery start bear hugging the arete leads to the minor rooflet. Move into the sweet right-facing flake, catch your breath, then tackle some sustained and technical climbing all the way to the bolted anchors. Keep looking left for your holds. Looks like the anchors have clips. | 12m | Canberra | ||
23 | ★★ Missionary Positions
Strenuous climbing up the small corner. Head left to the flake and layaways. Finish left as for Extremely Anal. | 13m | Canberra | ||
23 | ★ Missionary Positions Direct Finish
Continue up from the corner and slightly right to a jug just below The Bummer, then traverse left on big holds. | 13m | Canberra | ||
17 | ★ Vandalous Behaviour
Up the wall on small toes and crimps just right of The Bummer, trying to stay off the corner, up to a two-bolt anchor. | 13m | Canberra | ||
18 | Heat and Dust
The once-brushed line a few meters right of Silent Running. MH: Definitely very dirty with thick lichen at the top in 2021. Tried to avoid using the crack further right. A trad anchor can be constructed using the crack at the back of the upper vegetated ledge - needs a small wire, a smallish cam, and maybe a sling for the little tree if you're desperate for more? | 12m | Canberra | ||
16 | The Ant's Pants
On the wall behind the I Hate Sunday Barbecues wall. The corner at the L end with a tricky start. When it expires, continue up steep rock to belay off the big pine tree. FA: Erik Lock & Nick Neagle, 1991 | 10m | Aldgate Super Crag | ||
14 | Sic 'em Rex
Arete 3m R of The Ant's Pants. FA: Erik Lock & Nick Neagle, 1991 | 10m | Aldgate Super Crag | ||
21 | Ant Acid
Locate a smooth wall several metres R of Sic 'em Rex. Boulder up the L side of this (2m R of a corner) to a ledge, then through the overhang and up the wall to a gum tree. FA: Erik Lock & Nick Neagle, 1991 | 10m | Aldgate Super Crag | ||
20 | ★ Damage Control DF
The centre of the Damage Control wall, with blinkers. FA: Doug Brooks, 2007 | 10m | Argadells | ||
16 | Anchor Blade
| 8m | Lark's Edge | ||
16 | Schweppes
| 8m | Lark's Edge | ||
18 | Postscript
| 10m | Lark's Edge | ||
19 | ★ Aussie Butler Variant
| 10m | Lark's Edge | ||
14 | Wall Street
| 10m | Lark's Edge | ||
22 | Ozone
Up the face (just to the left of the crack), around the horizontal roof edge, up the face. | 12m | Lark's Edge | ||
22 | ★ Thug
Climb the obvious vertical crack through the overhang, then keep following it up. More of a beast then it looks. | 12m | Lark's Edge | ||
20 | ★★ Poha
| 15m | The Monkeys | ||
22 | ★ Gasher
| 10m | The Monkeys | ||
13 | ★ Miss Muffet
Climb the arete on the LH end of the buttress. FA: TR Christie, 1967 | 17m | Rocky Tom | ||
16 | Cast Iron Claw
The face halfway between the LH arete and the chimney of Funnel-web. The first moves are fairly tricky. The rest is easier but steep. | 15m | Rocky Tom | ||
15 | ★ Funnel-web
The chimney which evenly bisects the buttress. Move out R at the top. FA: TR Reg Williams, 1967 | 15m | Rocky Tom | ||
20 | ★ Devil Rides Out
A devious and rather psychologically demanding little route. Start at the base of the chimney of Funnel-web. Traverse out on small holds, heel-hook onto the face (crux) then finish up the cracks and face above. | 15m | Rocky Tom | ||
16 | ★ Fly Trap
A testing route up the face just R of Funnel-web. Steep and worthwhile, though a little loose on the lower sections. | 15m | Rocky Tom | ||
15 | Spider Wall
The wall directly above the cherry tree. The difficulties are proportional to the height. FA: TR John Wholan, 1967 | 15m | Rocky Tom | ||
13 | Gossamer
Just around the corner to the R of Spider Wall is a gently sloping face. Start with a good orthopaedic move 2m R of the arete, then follow the good holds above to the top. | 10m | Rocky Tom | ||
9 | Arapiles Crack
| 5m | Rocky Tom | ||
16 | Square Root Variant
| 10m | Rocky Tom | ||
16 | Square Root Direct
| 10m | Rocky Tom | ||
19 | ★ Surd
| 10m | Rocky Tom | ||
16 | Square Root
| 10m | Rocky Tom | ||
19 | Cube Root
| 10m | Rocky Tom |