Australia • Sport climber Stream event
Sat 2 Mar
Chris Snell red pointed a route at Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre. • discussed 8 weeks ago
Red pointed a route.
26 ★★★ Sirocco 52m, 5
Started via the first two bolts of Father O. Makes for a more consistent route - at least that’s what I’m telling myself until I figure out the crux! — with Ben W
Goshen Watts started this discussion 3 months ago.
oh nice... I tried it this way when Trying father O... Thought it was actually the "line of least resistance" between the 2 climbs.
Chris Snell replied 14 weeks ago.
I agree. This start actually gives two really awesome long pitches up the middle of the wall that many climbers would find far more achievable than the described routes with hard cruxes.
benwiessner replied 11 weeks ago.
Will Monks and I have been chatting about whether this variant is 'worthwhile enough' to be a route on thecrag. I think it is (that's why I did write it up, as the 'Father Sirocco Linkup'), whereas Will thinks it doesn't meet the 'worthwhile enough bar' (that's why he merged it with Sirocco). We've both written enough about our opinions to fill a textbook (each), with some good arguments put forward by both sides... but so far neither of us has been unable to convince the other party.
Of course, it all comes down to opinions, and Will nicely pointed out that neither of us has a more worthwhile opinion that the other and suggested that it would be good to hear what others think - so Goshen Watts & Chris Snell: what are your thoughts? Does anyone else wish to weigh in on this thrilling and extremely non-trivial matter?
PS regardless of what's decided, thanks to Will Monks for being nice and decent about this. Who would have thought that was possible on the internet.
Chris Snell replied 11 weeks ago.
Mmmm. Good question. I actually think that this Father Sirocco line should become THE route with the original start listed as a variant option.
Goshen Watts replied 10 weeks ago.
I haven't actually ticked either route this way yet - just played around trying them - but plan to go back and do it this way. Are the bolts a bit badly positioned for this though? It's quite a runout either way isn't it? Although only on par with sirocco after it's crux I guess. Would the grade be any different? I'd suggest Father O and Sirocco get 27 (unless you're 6ft), so the new 'variant' can retain 26, haha - not sure how popular that would be! In any case I have no issues logging the route like Chris did, and only think it's worth adding a new variant on theCrag if it doesn't feel contrived (bolts way out off to the side).
Zac replied 10 weeks ago.
After spending some time recently on the Father Sirocco line, I also believe that this line should be included into the crag as a separate route.
SJ replied 8 weeks ago.
I also think the Father Sirocco line should be its own glorious line on thecrag. There's a very high change it sees more traffic that both Sirocco and Father 'O, so why not give it its own line?