Australia • Trad climber Ikey session
Ikey red pointed a route at Werribee Gorge and mentioned Miranda R. • 1767 1 Point 13 Points • 10 days ago
Red pointed a route.
17 ★ Conscientious Pontius 13m — Good
There were 5 red cams in the crack when I got to the top (I only clipped 3). Figured there wasn't enough fixed gear so I punched an overcammed in near the top, couldn't adjust it on the lead and didn't clip it. (Miranda easily got it out). Good little climb, wish it was a bit longer.
The stuck cam there is really annoying. It's in a good handhold and its properly fucked. I was like yeah it's not going anywhere until I looked at it. Definitely do not clip it. One of the lobes is completely destroyed, has been cut in half. Didn't have a crack at getting it out, I figured better minds than me have tried. I think it's probably worth cutting the sling, I might bring a knife next time I head to the gorge. — with jacob, Miranda R, nick
Connor Gundberg started this discussion 9 days ago.
Letsgoooo big dubs for dooseynator!!!
Jimmy replied 9 days ago.
Hang on.. there are five red cams STUCK in the crack concurrently?
Ikey replied 9 days ago.
Thanks condog
Ikey replied 9 days ago.
haha jimmy, theres only one thats stuck, thats the fucked one that shouldn't be clipped/ should be removed somehow. I placed the other 4 on my go. There's not a free rack stuck in the crack :'( .
Jimmy replied 9 days ago.
I was nearly about to charge down the highway...
Karina Schofield replied 4 days ago.
I'm going to be cutting that sling off when I get there on Saturday. I think once the sling's gone I'm going to take my warning down. I agree, it's a pain in the butt where that cam is.
@dalai replied 4 days ago.
Would a cordless angle grinder reach it cam?
Karina Schofield replied 3 days ago.
I considered it, but the cam's in deep enough that I was told a hacksaw could only barely get at it, and then someone pushed it in a bit more to try to get it out of the way. I think with the sling removed, it removes most of the obstruction and the safety hazard. It is a bit of an eyesore though unfortunately.
@dalai replied 3 days ago.
Been a lifetime since I've been on that climb, so I'll have to check it again and look for options. As leaving in the back of the crack isn't it. If a grinder won't reach, I might be able to reach it with a cordless reciprocating saw.
Karina Schofield replied 3 days ago.
I totally agree. It would be best if it could be completely removed. I don't have the power tools to do so myself though, unfortunately, though I've always wanted a recip saw! Also I might not be there this Saturday after all, we'll see.
Jimmy replied 3 days ago.
Would love to see a picture of the before and after if possible!
Ikey replied 3 days ago.
I think its probably worth leaving the warning up until its gone gone, can't imagine anyone would actually clip it but yknow.
An angle grinder definitely wont be able to reach it. I reckon a recip saw might be able to get to it but id suggest bringing a long blade. I was planning on bringing a hacksaw when I go next (whenever that is), hopefully its not too out of reach.
@dalai replied 3 days ago.
I don't have a recipe saw either, but meaning to buy one. Bosch have an 18V that shares my hammer drills batteries so going to order it now. Not sure when I'll get out there though. Hopefully people don't try and push it in even further!
Jimmy if it's me dealing with it, I'll take some photos.
@ikey thanks for the tips.
@dalai replied 3 days ago.
Reciprocating saw now ordered.