Vie in Africa del grado selezionato

The second should have a back rope for the first 9m. At the right-hand end of Upper Cliffs is a prominent chimney. This superb technical route starts just left of this feature, below a slab, Gain slab easily and traverse left to corner (bolt). Swing around left edge and ascend face above (crux). On up steep rock (bolt), to a final belay bolt. Up easily to top or abseil off bolt.

Not in either guidebook - from Alex Anderson website? Maybe in a bulletin

Sit-down start on good rail, moves up the rail and over the lip. Avoid dabbing on the tree that is directly under you.

On the boulder with a tree in front of it just to the right of Nightcrawler.

Sit-down start on the arete, left hand on good side pull and right hand on lowest crimp, starts up the arete and then takes a big swing to the face of the overhang with a very tricky mantle to the top. A true Lukenya test-piece.

Right of Rooster Tail. Sit-start on the lowest possible holds. Very hard first move (crux), to get to a better hold out left. Straight up from there.

Start on arete, make your way left onto face and then straight up through big powerful moves.

Sit-start on the only real obvious holds through the middle of the boulder. Hard move to get established in the pocket, then hard moves to the top.

Choice line in the middle of the boulder. Stand-start matched in a big horizontal pocket. Move up to the lip then work your way right to slightly more incut holds and use the left-hand edge of the rock on top to finish. Harder than it looks!

A mantling testpiece. Stand-start around the middle of the boulder with hands on the sloping edge, and feet on an obvious rail. Go up via a couple of small holds, hip flexibility and thrutching to better holds above and easy top-out.

A sharp and aesthetic traverse of the boulder. Start matched in "The Joker" crack and proceed to make a full traverse of the boulder utilising the features on the main face to the end of the climbable holds marked by a short horizontal crack with a small pocket at it's end. Once the furthest hold right "the pocket" has been achieved, the climber may top out. Note: the top edge of the boulder is off limits. The climber must dance around on the holds and features on the main face and belly of the boulder.

To the right of Heavy is the Head. Sit-down start with hands on low on quasi symmetrical crimpy edges, a few big moves straight up to the top. Deceptively difficult and low percentage.

Start on pocket/crack at the end of 'Final Boss' and proceed to do the problem in reverse up to where you join 'Jack.' From here, the problem proceeds up and left, sharing a stylish top out with 'The Joker.'

Start on two small crimpers above the rock. Traverse left and finish as for act of blasphemy. #SD #traverse #crimpy

Up the arete left of Sniffing Glue. Stand-start on two decent flat holds and work up the arete with power and precision to top out either straight up or left.

Crimpy highball up the left side of the boulder, on the face.

The logical conclusion to a lot of messing around on this boulder! As for Big Knife, but keep going with tricky beta along the rest of the boulder, finishing up Corkscrew. Long, fun and knackering!

Long and sustained! Start way to the right under the overhang, just left of the entrance to the cave, matched on the slanting hold from a sit-start. Work your way left on decent holds and bad feet to a hard match (crux), then round then corner and up the blocky finish.

A great, complex problem up the centre of the boulder. Start matched on the good blocky rail low down and work your way up and slightly right, establishing on an undercling and sidepull before a big move to the top. A tricky topout still follows, but the holds are there.

On the left side of the boulder. Grade is not really a good barometer on this one. Start on the good rail, get your feet set and launch for the top and mantle.

The arete immediately left of 'The Calm Before the Storm.' Start matched on the decent square knob. From there its just a matter of braving the storm ahead.

The sit-start to Machungwa. Start on the two low crimps down and right, hard scrunched-up move up and left to the start hold of Machungwa, and finish straight up. Harder for the tall.

This is a 15 bolt sport route on the SW arete of the Mouse.

Sit start with an awkward left hand gaston edge and a shallow right hand pinch. Use bad feet to make a big reach up and left to a sloping edge. From there climb the arete and top out. The sit is the most natural start, but you can stand start on the same holds in a lieback with a high foot for a V5, or start one move in at the sloping edge for a V3. This problem is on the obvious steep blunt arete on the left of the two adjacent boulders when facing them from the trailhead

7c crux, 7a obligatory

See here: http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200029800/Africa-Kenya-Ndoto-Mountains-Poi-East-Face-True-At-First-Light Downgrade proposed by Slovenian team that made the second ascent in 2003, to 7C: http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP03/climbing-note-jeran

Sit start on low, obvious rail. The first move off the rail is the trickiest. Awkward transition to then traverse up and right to the exit.

Furthest left (uphill) line on the boulder. Sit start at the blunt arete on a left-hand sidepull and sharp right-hand crimp. Climb the arete to the obvious finishing jug with wide moves and heelhooks.

Vincent Terisse et un jeune Réunionais avait équipé une petite longueur, surtout pour y faire des photos. J'imagine qu'on devrait pouvoir continuer dans le 7+.

Abseil notes:

Abseil via the same route. You can also walk down the 'Lemur Wall' ridge. See route diagram (link below) for more info!

Recommended equipment:

• 14 quickdraws
• 2x 60m ropes

Pitches info:

1. 30m (7 bolts)

2. 55m (13 bolts)

3. 50m (13 bolts)

4. 30m (6 bolts)

5. 40m (11 bolts)

6. 50m (13 bolts)

Route diagram:

AILEDESCIMES - King Lui

Other notes:

Very well equipped.

Left of "John 3.16". Topo.

Topo.

#SD

Listed here.

One block. Standing start and go left on smear footholds. Jump to top and mantle out. Scary and a bit dangerous, 2-3 pads needed.

Start on hold unter the edge and go right. Mantle on the prow.

Highball. Start with wet feet. Video 4:55.

This is the harder, sit start variation of the V5 Termite Be Your Last Step. This climb is a project and has yet to be sent.

Very sharp slab with a slightly positive incline. Incredibly small holds and bad footholds. All side pulls to the right of the holds are out-of-bounds, see photo below.

Start sitting on the small rock beneath the boulder and pull up off the ground on the left-hand side pull and the right-hand three-finger sloper, as shown in the beta photo.

First move is a big, right hand throw to a small crimp (Crux move). Then left hand to the small, sharp crimp above your right hand, chalked intermediates can be seen in the photo. Then right hand to the wide sloper pinch directly above and bring your feet up. Right foot high, stand up, reach for the left hand side pull and lean back on it. Crank in with the left and find a good, wide sloper above and then top.

from picture

Open project. Could be 7b after a good clean.