Vie in South East

This has now been bolted.

A sustained link-up that guarantees a good workout. Start up Gun Ho, stepping L at jugs, finishing up Cadwallada. Dynamic, technical with a heartbreaking finish.

Climbs the blank face to the L of the upper section of SE. Contrived.

The classic of the crag

If you're too short to do the Anaphalaxis dyno then use the good initial hold to move left to bolt and then up to the horizontal break and finish as for Anaphalaxis.

At the final overlap on WD make a tricky move right to join the crack. Past a U-bolt then to the WD Chains.

Start up Bondage and Discipline until the roof. Then climb straight up on good but well spaced holds (a little harder if your short) & finish at General Benefit chains.

Start with the 2 first bolts of Bad Habits, go right around the arête to the big hole and then up to the chains

Climb the crux of Genital thrust into the crux of Bad habits.

Large boulder to the right of the sport climbs. There is a low wave wall on the north side of the boulder. Start on the right hand side of the wave on jugs, move left to big sloper, bust to jugs and top out.

Start very low on the far right of the boulder on big jug and low feet, bust out to the start of the V2 then finish. Fun but low.

A good fingery traverse starts at the two finger pocket about 5m right of the start of PE and continues via pockety moves to SE. When the start of SE is reached, do the first tricky move of SE to reach the horizontal. Do about one move along the horizontal to the right from where your feet can reach the nice footholds on JJ and then get down onto the holds of JJ. There is a nice layaway pointing left and then a shallow pocket. From here continue right past A to finish at the start of PL. The traverse can also be done in reverse. Try and link up both directions if you don't feel the effects of lactic acid. Also there are extensions on either end.

Gun Ho - The first few moves of the various climbs can be done as boulder problems as a lot of the climbs have cruxy moves in the first 4 metres or so!

Suck Ethics

Jack Jumper

Anaphalaxis

Play Lunch

Wasted Daze

Start with RH undercling and LH side pull. Climb up through the steeper section of the wall.

Start on the large sandy jugs and traverse out leftwards on crimps.

Sit start the series of edges through steep ground on the right side of the cave. Might have lost some holds since the first ascent, looks hard.

Steep line of big moves between good holds to the left of Circles.

Sit start below the circles on the right side of the wall.

Stand start at Circles and traverse left along the line of jugs and out along the lip of the cave. Top it out, but watch for the hollow sounding jug.

This climb is on the obvious bulge to the left of the drain feature. Start on rail and climb up to high slab topout.

Left hand on good sidepull. Starts left heads a little right then back left to top out.

Start right hand low on the arete and left hand on centre of face crimp.

Sharing the same arete as Frankest of shadows. Start left hand using the arete and right hand using a low side pull.

Start on long rail and mantle with not great feet. Or crimp and highstep to victory.

Start on sloped rail just right of the mossy corner. Move up and down and left via some funky moves then easy to finish up 4.

Start as for Lets Play Twister, climb this to juggy pocket then traverse the crag via start hold of Nice for What and crimps till you join The Deepest Sighs, climb this to the top.

5 meters to the right of Nice for what is a blank face with text on it. Start left and right low on the flake. Flake running up the face, with a slab top out. Project

Sit start at break. Up on orange slopers then jump to rail.

### Unfortunately the Owl has gone missing. ### Would be nice to find some fun replacement rock/s we could paint or keep as grip-lifting challenges.

Pinch and lift the owl painted rock with one hand. Pinching from the top.

Rules if you want a clean by the book send: To "send" The owl lifter must fully straighten up (back erect, legs and hips locked out); once standing straight, the lifter must maintain control of the owl for 1 second. Then lower the owl controlled way maintaining grip until the owl has returned to the ground.

The classic traverse along the base of the quarry. Start far right on "The Blind Leading the Crippled" and traverse left for 50m+, with three distinct cruxes until under the dog-leg crack (Justin's Crack). If your into "adventure bouldering" keep going and top it out on the lefthand side of the quarry.

Traverse the entire cliff from left to right.

L-most line of bolts on slab, starting just behind the small tree. 4 UBs to chains shared with 'Twilight Groping'.

Start 2m R of 'Don't Buy a Cheap Ryobi'. 4 UBs to chains shared with 'DBACR'.

Straight up centre of slab, 2m R of 'Twilight Groping'. 5 UBs to chains.

Start with 2 bolts of 'Weetbix' traverse L then climb diagonally towards the anchor of 'Don't Buy a Cheap Ryobi'

R-most line of bolts on slab, 2m R of 'Eye Bolt Route'. 4 UBs to DUBB.

Cheeky alternative start to Weetbix from the far right corner. Crimpy slab problem instead of the easy ladder of Weetbix.

Short easy climb, great for beginners or first time leaders. 3 UBs to DUBB.

Delicate climbing. Starts 2m L of 'Bastard Cancer'. 4 UBs to DBB shared with 'BC'.

Arête just L of main slab. Nice rock. Bouldery start, can pre-clip first bolt from easy corner to R. 4 UBs (5 if you use last UB on 'Death Unto Racists') finishing at DBB shared with 'DUR'.

Start with 3 bolts of 'Bastard Cancer' traverse R, bolts 2-5 of 'Phantom Stone Thrower', continue up 'Ruddiocracy' then traverse to the anchor of 'Serial Driller' (crux)

L-most end of main slab, 3m R of 'Bastard Cancer'. 5 UBs to chains.

Start immediately R of PST, climbing just to the L of the UBs. Exciting climbing with some thin moves. The crux clip is now a little cruxier (Aug 2017), having lost a handy jug, adding a grade (from 19). May still shed a little rock so belayer beware!

Start just L of small roof, a few metres R of 'Ruddiocracy'. 7 FHs. Finish at same chains as 'Tour de France' & 'Serial Driller'.

The crag test piece. Start 2m R of 'Les Grands Ensembles', at R end of rooflet. 7 FHs, though hanger on 1st is missing (nongs!) NOTE 1st bolt now U-bolt (2017). Chains shared with 'LGE' & 'Serial Driller'.

Start at Tour de France, continue trending right on UBs to join Serial Driller. Extra UB has been added for 'high' traverse to chains, no need to clip second last bolt. And if confident, climbs well to clip the second UB as your 1st.

Start 3m R of 'Tour de France', towards R end of central slab. Follow L line bolts after 3rd bolt. Trend L at top to chains shared with 'Les Grands Ensembles' & 'TDF'. 9 UBs. NOTE: top section (to chains) is more technical due to block with holds shedding (May 2017).

Start as for 'Serial Driller' but follow R line of bolts after 3rd bolt. 8 UBs to chains.

Start with 6 bolts of 'Totally Awesome' continue past the step for 2 bolts in 'Open Festering Wounds' traverse L in the apparent bolt face to climb the last 3 bolts of 'Serial Driller'

Start at R end of the tall section of main slab, 2m R of 'Serial Driller'. Lots of loose rock so take care. 9 UBs & FHs to DBB.

Start a few metres R of 'Totally Awesome'. Up right facing corner to overlap. Move slightly leftwards from top of overlap, then finish back right up final slab. 5 UBs to anchors.

The best route at the quarry? Continually interesting climbing up the groove feature and bulge. 4 UBs to anchors.

A route squeezed in between PNSH and the rubbish rock to the right (use the arete to the right but don't venture further right). Kick right from the pedestal near the top to finish. Might not really be 19 but with a heavy fever and respiratory difficulty it just might be.

Start shared with 'Trad Wankers Must Die'. Up easily past 3 UBs and optional FH. Then head L through steeper section past final UB to anchors. A block with the crux hold worked loose mid-2017 increasing the grade of the climb from 20 (to 21 or 22).

"A route in the classic tradition of Waterworks Quarry. A route that will warm the hearts and minds of repeat ascentionists, chill them to the bone and make them sick to their stomachs. This route epitomises its creator's hedonistic and sociopathic style and is a textbook case of man against rock, rock against gravity and gravity against the combined forces of Ramset and Ryobi. The first bolt, with its stark placement and uncompromising height off the deck, deftly describes mans inhumanity to man. It is also a vivid phallic symbol graphically outlining the first ascentionist's subconscious insecurity about the size of his bit. The moves up the wall above form an abstract modern dance that brings to mind images of East European conflict especially the side-pull which is the key to reaching the third bolt and a new round of Geneva peace talks. A man will always return to old stomping grounds and search for his roots; pulling up on the crucial razor sharp undercut one can almost feel them. The heady aroma of vast African plains drifts tantalisingly through ones nostrils and momentarily the mists of time part, you run, then walk, then crawl back down the evolutionary chain until an apelike heave sends you scurrying up and over the crux. You pause to appreciate the moment and the true symbolism of the metaphor, but a glance at the vacant expanse looming high to the left tells you the best is still to come."

Start as for 'Oh Joyous Lobotomy'. At the 3rd UB head R past a final UB to anchors. The FH between the 3rd & 4th bolts doesn't offer additional protection and there's less rope drag if it's not clipped.

Nice climbing. Start up right facing corner (shared with DITNO). Where DITNO moves right, continue straight up the line. Clips the same bolts as DITNO. No chain or lower-off, but easy to traverse 2m left or right to an adjacent route.

Climb the cruxy corner to the second bolt on UR, move right to easier left trending corner line. Up to chain on JBMHD.

A somewhat contrived line, yet opening new possibilities. Start halfway between Urban Renewal and Jesus Built My Hammer Drill. Lower section is a crimp fest, middle section a side-pulling stepladder, upper section a cruxy blank face. Stay centred on the bolt line and do not use holds to your left (Resurrection) or right (Jesus). Finish at the same anchor as Resurrection and Drilling in the Name of. In loving memory of Majo.

Link up. Start up 'Jesus Built My Hammer Drill'. At 3rd UB, head L to join 'Drilling In The Name Of' at its 4th UB. Finish at 'DITNO' anchors.

Good thin climbing up face to L of 'The Blind Leading The Crippled' arête. 4 UBs to anchors.

A line between JBMHD and BLTC. Avoid the temptation of the large holds on climbs either side. Possibly could be described as a bit contrived.

Ascends the blunt arête at the R end of the cliff. Try climbing it blindfolded! 4 UBs to chains.

Discontinued due to chossy death risk.

Discontinued due to chossy death risk.