Grado | Via | Stile equipaggiamento | Popolarità | Falesia | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
{UIAA} 4+ | ★★ Via Steger
1
3
20m
2
3+
20m
3
4
30m
4
5.0
10m
5
4+
30m
6
4+
20m
7
2
30m
FA: Hans Steger/Ernst Holzner, 1928 | 160m, 7 | Torri del Sella | ||
{UIAA} 4+ | ★★★ Spigolo Piaz
Take path no. 542 from Rifugio Re Alberto (some short aided sections). Go to the base of the Towers and go up the gully/couloir that divides the Torre Piaz from Torre Delago. Climb until you reach a small platform at the saddle between the two towers. This is where you start the route (40 m, I/II, 1 piton + cemented ring). 1st pitch: Climb vertically until you reach a mini-cave and pass it on the left (piton), and continue along a vertical stretch of whitish rock (nail). Move to the right for a few meters, then return to the left until you reach the edge of the corner where you stop. (30 m, IV+, 3 pitons) 2nd pitch: The most beautiful point of the route. Belay stance, go around the corner to the left, looking out over the valley below in an impressive way. Climb the vertical arete (piton) on small and somewhat polished holds. After about ten meters, return to the right of the arete. Scramble up some easy blocks you reach a small ledge. Follow a not-so obvious crack above it until you reach a ledge with the belay stance. (30m, IV, 3 pitons) 3rd pitch: Climb the dihedral staying just to the right of the arete (2 close pitons). Then, a leaning ramp leads to a small ledge where the belay is located. (25 m, IV, 2 pitons, lots of fixed slings) 4th pitch: Go diagonally to the right, following bladey bits of rock. Go up a whitish slab, up through a chimney until you reach the easy ridge that leads to the summit. You can divide the pitch by stopping before the white slab. (50m, IV, 1 piton) Descent: The main abseil descent is on the the north-east face, possible to merge abseils with double ropes.
From here, follow the trail back down to Rifugio Re Alberto. FA: G.Battista/F.Jori/I.Glaser, 1911 | 160m, 5 | Gruppo del Catinaccio | ||
{UIAA} 5 | ★★ Sonntagsspaziergang
1
5
35m
2
4+
30m
3
4+
25m
4
2
50m
5
4+
35m
6
5-
35m
7
4+
45m
Start of the climb: GPS 46.508,11.303 A few cams and slings can be useful. The area around the start of the climb has been obviously cleared of vegetation, and the rock cleaned. You can see a tree with a fixed sling approx. 5 metres off the ground from the base.
Descent: From the top anchor, follow the tracks to the right. They lead you down to the dirt track a about 100 m from the farm house. FA: Luca De Giorgi & Peter Warasin, Feb 2020 | 260m, 7 | Jenesien | ||
5a | ★ Kindheitstraum
| 24m | Tisner Auen | ||
5b+/c | ★★★ Dirty-flirty
1
4a
30m
2
5b
35m
3
5b+/c
30m
4
4a
40m
5
5a
35m
6
5a+
35m
7
5b
30m
Als Lockdowns, Ausgangsperren und Ähnliches jegliches edle Gestein in unerreichbare Ferne rückten, mussten wir Kinder aus dem Bozner Stadtkessel und dessen Umgebung uns mit porphyrlastigen Wochenendbeschäftigungen zufriedengeben geben. Um es trotzdem spannend zu machen entschieden wir, uns auf eine neue Erfahrung einzulassen. Mit einem Rucksack voller Bohrhacken und dem Fahrrad zwischen den Beinen fuhren wir also los. So entstand eine nette Route in den unteren Schwierigkeitsgraden, die trotz guter Absicherung etwas „Alpinfeeling“ verspricht. Perfekt für ein romantisches Kletterdate.
https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/dirty-flirty-glaning-bei-bozen/ FA: Fabian Aster, Friedl Brancalion, Silke Griesser, Ulrike Griesser & Paul Pruenster, Apr 2021 | 240m, 7, 12 | Jenesien | ||
{UIAA} 4+ | ★★★ Spigolo Sud
1
3+
25m
2
4+
30m
3
4
25m
4
3+
25m
5
4
35m
6
3
25m
7
4+
20m
8
3
20m
https://www.bergsteigen.com/fileadmin/userdaten/import/topos/680_Topo_477c78a4-7a0e-4c60-a435-09ac06d6d449_hexenstein_suedkante.pdf You can start along the Via Gnu Entry route. FA: Andrea Colbertaldo & Luigi Pezzotti, 1939 | 210m, 8 | Sass De Stria | ||
6a | ★★★ Kiss the Riss
| 16m | Tisner Auen | ||
5b+ | ★ Zeitlous
| 15m | Tisner Auen | ||
5a | ★ Etschtol Kante
| 24m | Tisner Auen | ||
6a | ★★ Moos Party
1
4a
35m
2
5b
32m
3
5c
35m
4
5c
45m
5
4b
30m
6
6a
28m
7
4c
45m
bellissimo il penultimo tiro https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/dirty-flirty-glaning-bei-bozen/ | 250m, 7, 8 | Jenesien | ||
5b+ | ★ Mara
| 16m | Tisner Auen | ||
{UIAA} 5+ | ★★★ Via Trenker
1
3
30m
2
4-
35m
3
5+
35m
4
3+
35m
5
4-
25m
6
4-
30m
7
1
40m
After passing the Lokomotiv, go along the southwest wall of the First Tower until you reach a recess, with pillars on the right and left. The route runs along the evident dihedral slightly inclined to the right.
a) Head up a couple of metres before leaving the crack and traversing diagonally right up an easy slab to a large ledge. Anchor on two glue-in bolts in the middle of the ledge. b) Continue up the crack to the top before stepping out right on the ledge, belay on two pitons, OR belay on the right of this directly under the chimney of the final pitch (2 glue-in bolts). (25m, IV-)
a) Abseil from summit: To the right of the saddle between 1st/2nd towers, follow the ridge ~30m to an abseil (40m). OR b) Descent by the "Via Normale" From the summit, follow the obvious path that leads to the saddle between the First and Second Sella Towers, then continue around the 2nd Tower, following the rock piles/cairns. At a crossroads, take the path that turns right down the steep gully towards the valley. There are points where downhill climbing is required, never higher than II. Here, the abseil and the Via Normale join up again. Shortly before the base of the wall, the trail separates to the left and right. To the right, there are two abseil anchors (top 35m, bottom 25m). To the left there is a downclimb (grade II). Once at the base, follow the path to the right to return to the parking lot. FA: L.Trenker & H. Pescosta, 1913 | 230m, 7 | Torri del Sella | ||
5b | ★ L'ho Giá Visto | 15m, 6 | Città dei Sassi | ||
6a | ★★ Jochgeier | 22m | Juval | ||
6a+ | ★★ Haeng di | 20m | Juval | ||
5b | ★ Zaperlezap | 18m | Juval | ||
{UIAA} 5+ | ★★★ Via Kasnapoff
FA: M. Zelger e Signora von Kasnapoff, 1913 | 300m, 11 | Torri del Sella | ||
5a | ★ Facile/Leicht
| 14m | Bagni Di Zolfo | ||
{UIAA} 6 | ★★★ Via Micheluzzi
1
5-
2
5+
3
4
4
6
5
3
6
5+
7
5+
8
5+
9
6
10
5
11
5
12
5
13
4+
FA: Micheluzzi/Castiglioni, 1935 | 380m, 13 | Piz Ciavazes | ||
5a | ★ Edelweiss | 28m | Marchegghof | ||
4 | ★ Was guckst du?
| 16m | Tisner Auen | ||
5b | ★ Erika
| 17m | Bagni Di Zolfo | ||
{UIAA} 5+ | ★★★ Via Vinatzer
Takes a line up the centre of the 3rd Tower with a steep crack leading to the crux overhang above the big ledge at 2/3 height. FA: G.B Vinatzer & V Peristi, 1935 | 350m, 11 | Torri del Sella | ||
6a+ | ★★ Langes P1 | 22m | Unterinn | ||
5c+ | ★★ Kasnapoff-Zelger
1
5b
20m
2
5c+
15m
| 35m, 11 | Latsch | ||
5a+ | ★ Schrege Moidl
| 24m | Tisner Auen | ||
4b | ★★ Laica | 10m, 5 | Città dei Sassi | ||
5c | ★ Idefix | 11m | Juval | ||
{UIAA} 4 | ★★ Hintergrat | 900m, 4 | Ortler | ||
5a | ★ Peter Pan | 15m | Trodena Molini | ||
6a | ★★ Wenriss | 26m | Höhlensteintal | ||
7a | ★★ Die Langweilige
1
6a
18m
2
7a
18m
| 36m, 2 | Höhlensteintal | ||
5c+ | ★ Reine Welt
1
5a
18m
2
5c+
10m
| 28m | Höhlensteintal | ||
4c | ★★ Glücksverschneidung | 22m, 8 | Latsch | ||
5a | ★ MFG
| 20m | Tisner Auen | ||
5c/c+ | ★★ Lord | 13m, 6 | Città dei Sassi | ||
★★★ Brigata Tridentina
A great moderate Via Ferrara. quite exposed. amazing views | 600m | Brigata Tridentina | |||
5c | ★★ Kaminkehrer
| 25m | Tisner Auen | ||
6a | ★★ Halbmittag | 18m | Hohe Festung | ||
6a+ | ★★ Kinderspiel
1
5b
8m
2
6a
9m
3
6a+
7m
| 24m | Höhlensteintal | ||
6c | ★★ Hexentanz
1
6b
8m
2
6c
20m
| 28m | Höhlensteintal | ||
6b | ★★★ Crazy Diamond | 18m | Unterinn | ||
5a | ★ Rampenführe
1
5a
12m
2
5a
13m
| 25m, 12 | Latsch | ||
5a | ★ Jerry | 7m, 3 | Città dei Sassi | ||
6c | ★★★ Die Köchetour
1
5c+
14m
2
6c
14m
| 28m, 2 | Höhlensteintal | ||
5c+ | ★★ Alte Jungfrau | 25m | Höhlensteintal | ||
5b | ★ Miraculix | 11m | Juval | ||
6a | ★★ Spaate | 18m | Juval | ||
6a+ | ★★★ Pocahontas | 24m | Trodena Molini | ||
5b | ★ Principessa | 12m | Città dei Sassi | ||
4c - 5a+ | ★★ I Have A Dream | 14m, 6 | Città dei Sassi | ||
6b | Wintergarten
1
5a+
35m
2
5a
35m
3
5b
45m
4
5b
35m
5
5c
30m
6
6b
30m
7
5b+
40m
https://www.sentres.com/it/tour/alpinismo/jenesien-noafer-bichl-wintergarten-fuehre/800480664/ | 250m, 7 | Jenesien | ||
6b | ★★★ Delenda Carthago
1
4a
2
6b
3
6a
4
6a
5
6a
6
6a
The first pitch is shared with the historical Schober-Rossi route and is unbolted. There is a belay where the Schober route branches to the left. Otherwise all pitches are fully bolted except for some of the easier sections (like before the end of pitch 3). Tracciata: Roly Galvagni & Massimo Maceri, 2002 | 180m, 6 | Torri del Sella | ||
5a - b | ★★ Zanna bianca | 12m, 6 | Città dei Sassi | ||
5b+ | ★ Cactus/Kaktus
| 18m | Bagni Di Zolfo | ||
{UIAA} 5+ | ★★ Dibona - Südostwand
5 obl. FA: Ivano Dibona, Angelo Dibona & De Stefani, 1934 | 350m, 10 | Torri di Falzarego | ||
5a | Dida | 15m | Trodena Molini | ||
6b+ | ★★ Fetz geil | 20m | Juval | ||
{UIAA} 5- | ★★★ Via Comici
FA: Emilio Comici, Sandro del Torso & Mary Varale, 1934 | 240m, 8 | Torri di Falzarego | ||
{UIAA} 4 | ★★ Hoppetosse
1
4
35m
2
4
40m
3
3
30m
4
2 - 3
20m
5
4-
30m
FA: Johannes Kaufmann & Peter Warasin, 2018 | 160m, 5 | Jenesien | ||
5c+ | ★★ Flotte Lotte | 15m | Unterinn | ||
6a | ★★ Menopausa
| 17m, 8 | Morderplotta | ||
5c | ★★ Hopla | 21m | Höhlensteintal | ||
5a | ★ Cakewalk | 10m | Piccola Virgolo | ||
5a | ★ Elmar | 24m | Trodena Molini | ||
5b | ★ Halebopp | 16m | Trodena Molini | ||
5a | ★ Alf | 14m | Höhlensteintal | ||
6a+ | ★★ Lei guat | 20m | Juval | ||
6a+ | ★★ Che sballo | 25m | Juval | ||
6a | ★★ Super Trombetta | 20m | Sass De Stria | ||
4c | ★★ La nostra Prima
Extra points if you clip the cable! | 8m, 3 | Piccola Virgolo | ||
{UIAA} 4 | ★★ Via Rossi-Tomasi
Tracciata: Rossi & Tomasi, 1945 | 290m, 8 | Piz Ciavazes | ||
{UIAA} 4+ | ★★★ Versante Nord
Discesa: dalla cima scendere a sinistra in un canale (sud, II) e attraverso una lastra di rocce per ca. 30 m (alcuni ganci) fino al primo gancio fissato con cemento. Calarsi due volte per 25 m fino alla Forcella del Pollice e da qui proseguire sul SAT n° 104, 1.30 ore. | 250m, 8 | Cinque Dita | ||
5b+ | ★★ Fleckvieh
| 25m | Tisner Auen | ||
6a | ★★ Diva | 18m | Unterinn | ||
5b | ★★ Kleine Micheluzzi | 20m, 7 | Latsch | ||
5b | ★★ Tecnica/Teknik
| 12m | Bagni Di Zolfo | ||
6a | ★★★ Last not least | 20m | Juval | ||
{UIAA} 7 | ★★★ Via Abram
1
4
25m
2
4
40m
3
5
35m
4
5+
25m
5
7
15m
6
4-
40m
7
4-
35m
8
4-
30m
9
4+
25m
10
4+
35m
11
4
35m
12
4-
40m
FA: E. Abram & F Gomocz, 1953 | 380m, 12 | Piz Ciavazes | ||
6b+ | ★★ Dorà | 16m | Città dei Sassi | ||
4a | ★★★ Cucciolo | Città dei Sassi | |||
5b | ★★ Totem | 25m | Sass De Stria | ||
5c | ★ Blowing in the Wind | 25m | Sass De Stria | ||
6a/a+ | ★★ Schattenblume | 18m | Frea | ||
6b+ | ★★ Spargeltarzan | 40m, 2 | Juval | ||
5a | ★ Hakenflut | 22m | Höhlensteintal | ||
6a | ★★ illuminati | 9m | Piccola Virgolo | ||
5b | ★★ Graffiti | 9m | Piccola Virgolo | ||
5a | Mariakante | 10m, 5 | Latsch | ||
6b | ★★ Vespafahrt
1
4
8m
2
6b
10m
| 18m | Höhlensteintal | ||
6a | ★★ Pampa | 22m | Höhlensteintal | ||
5c+ | ★★ Gelbe Kante | 28m, 10 | Latsch | ||
6a | Pirelli rutschelli | 18m | Juval | ||
5c | ★★ Pizza Regina | 18m | Trodena Molini | ||
4b | ★ Brummler | 18m | Hohe Festung | ||
5c+ | 1 | 9m | Piccola Virgolo | ||
5a | ★★ Bio
| 8m | Tisner Auen | ||
4a | ★★ Onda | 14m, 5 | Città dei Sassi | ||
4c | ★★ Pisolo | Città dei Sassi | |||
4a | ★★ Diuck | 10m, 5 | Città dei Sassi |