Vie in Northern Norway del grado selezionato

Inner corner offers good 3D climbing. Lots of good holds.

Follow the obvious crack up the inside corner. Easy to protect. Beware the thin flake.

Located in the far right corner.

From the arete, follow the left trending crack until it ends. Traverse around the arete into excellent jamming in a corner then follow easy angled slab to the summit.

Trend left from Høstdrømmen towards the RF corner system. When this end following a thinner crack system out right to rejoin Høstdrømmen.

Big cam handy

1. 30m

2. 30m

3. 30m

4. 30m

P1/P2 can easily be linked & helps speed things up on busy summer days. It´s also common to climb right at P5 to the abseil line, as the final pitches are not of the same quality & it´s common for the rope to get snagged on the flake above

1. Starts a few metres left of Smeagul in the grassy crack & up to the black ledge where you move right over to the Gollum belay.

2. As for Gollum.

3. As for Gollum.

Beautiful series of cracks. Very easy to protect. Comfortable belay stances and descent on foot.

In the guidebook, the first pitches of Gollum and Smeagul are reveresed. Gollum starts at the top of the block.

As for Gandalf, Gollum or Lost Gandalf then move over to the base of the orange chimney (kamin)

A classic & the first route to dry on the wall

A nice alternative for anyone wanting to climb Gandalf with a pack

1. As for Guns n' Roses (40m)

2. As for Gandalf (35m)

3. As for Gandalf (25m)

Ascends up to Eastern ridge of Kvandalstinden. Marginally nicer to boulder hop your way here from Kalle (aiming for valley between Vågakallen/Kvandalstinden). The route starts up the boulder field on the right of a grassy ledge below a hand crack.

Located in a corner at the top of the grassy gulley on cliff to the right of Trollfestningen. Sarts at the same height as Spurven finishes. There´s a description in the old Ed Webster guidebook; 4 skyhook moves needed on pitch 4.

Nice sequence of easy craks and a bit of slab.

The easy stemming/layback corner

Located on the wall across the gully from the guidebook routes. The route tackles the entire wall via slabs & dihedral climbing. The FAs suggest a single rack to #3 plus wires.

From the corner under the big grassy ledge in to the finger crack through the slab

Mixed route

Mixed route on the left side of the slab

Located on the wall above Habanos. DBB