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Crags of Joy

  • Contesto grado: FR
  • Ascensioni: 66

Stagionalità

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Limitazioni per l'accesso ereditato da Rocklands

(Leaving this here as its inherited by child locations - please take the time to take pictures of the boulders you visit and post them under the relavent locations so that we can start populating more topos 🙂).

As of 2014, no climbing is allowed in Rocklands without a valid climbing permit. Land owners often conduct inspections in the climbing areas and anyone found without a permit will be asked to leave the climbing area. Permits can be obtained online - www.quicket.co.za - or purchased at CapeNature's Kliphuis campsite office; De Pakhuys campsite office; or Traveller's Rest farmstall and restaurant.

Etica ereditato da Rocklands

  1. Bury your faeces and carry out your toilet paper. If the ground is too hard to bury your faeces, please carry it out with you and dispose of it in the campsite bins. Poop bags are available for free at De Pakhys. (A special note about this: Tea Garden has been closed primarily due to this problem. Animals such as baboons may eat human faeces and could contract diseases such as Tuberculosis and hepatitis, which could prove detrimental to the population)

  2. Do not litter – carry everything you bring in with you back out with you and dispose of your litter in the bins at the campsite.

  3. Stick to the allocated paths marked by cairns and as illustrated in the guidebook. Diverting from these paths causes far more erosion than is necessary and may cause the extinction of certain sensitive plants in the area.

  4. No graffiti on rock surfaces. (Black Shadow boulder has been closed to climbing due to graffiti)

  5. No pof is allowed in Rocklands. The resin damages the rock surfaces and this damage is irreversible.

The complete disrespect of boulderers for the land on which they climb is a very serious and has become a very real threat to bouldering in Rocklands.

Rocklands bouldering is in peril. Rocklands does not belong to the climbers.

Our access is not a right, it’s a privilege and our treatment of the land is the difference between us being allowed to climb in Rocklands and us being banned from climbing in Rocklands altogether.

Irresponsible boulderers have caused this problem and boulderers are the only ones who can fix it.

Please respect the land you climb on in South Africa and adhere to the above mentioned rules. Your privilege to climb in Rocklands depends on it.

Vie

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Grado Via

Climb the face to the left of Facebook

Tracciata: Ryan Graefe

FA: Scott Noy, 2011

Up the dihedral then finish up the face.

FA: Guy Holwill, 2007

Superb bouldering on a rope, steep and powerful. Accessible and easy to work, the anchors can be reached from scramble up slab to top rope, and the belayer can spot / belay from the ledge at the 3rd bolt.

FA: Steve Koehorst, 2021

Closed Project of Sean Maasch - powerful moves and a big all-off dyno to finish

Mant: Sean Maasch, 2021

Open bolted project on the outside of the corner

FA: Steve Koehorst, 2021

Face/slab to the left of "Imagine".

FA: Scott Noy, 2015

Climbs the arête right of Facebook

FA: Guy Holwill, 2007

FA: K. Rycroft, 2008

Climbs the crack.

FA: Graham Shillington, 2007

Has been retro bolted

Start opposite a gnarled yellow wood tree. Boulder up left to a committing dyno, then move right and climb the arête.

FA: Cody Roth, 2009

Climb the left hand crack and continue straight up.

FA: Chris Kelk & Scott Noy, 2014

Climb the right hand crack...

FA: Scott Noy & Chris Kelk, 2014

Climb the obvious line to the right of the right crack.

FA: Scott Noy & Chris Kelk, 2014

Climb up to the right of a bush and up to a ledge and finish up the center of the 'gable'.

FA: Scott Noy, 2014

FA: J. Samson, 2007

Start on a ledge to the right of a tree. Rail to the right and up a blunt arete with a mantle to reach a break. Move to the next break then rail right and climb up past a rock-scar to the top.

FA: Scott Noy, 2014

Start up layback, move left then up to rail, do a tricky move to a ledge, move to next ledge then up scoop and continue straight up.

FA: James Pearson, 2014

Start as KaKa-Boom but from the rail traverse right and climb up diagonally right finishing up a black pocketed wall.

FA: James Pearson, 2014

Scramble up to the ledge and onto some blocks, traverse left along the high break and continue along the ledge to join Rhinoferos.

FA: Scott Noy, 2014

From the ledge, Start below corner, climb up and right to ledge and continue and to nice stance in the corner.

FA: Scott Noy, 2023

Climb onto ledge. Start below black pebbles rock with 3 small vertical cracks. Climb straight up. The last band is mossy and needs a clean , climbing out right is advised.

FA: Scott Noy, 2023

Start a few meters right of Girl with the Dragon Tattoo. Climb up the crack feature to ledge and join the forenamed route to finish.

FA: Samuel Schlesinger, 2023

Climb up the left-hand crack, mantle the slab and the finish straight up.

FA: Scott Noy & Chris Kelk, 2014

Climb the right crack then continue straight up using a pebble pocket to reach seam and finish up the wall using a pebble.

FA: Scott Noy, 2014

Climb Quail Trail but finish rightwards.

Climb up to the right of the arching crack.

FA: Scott Noy, 2014

Climb up through rail to a big lockoff move into a diagonal licened seam, continue up straight up.

FA: Scott Noy, 2014

Start below a little tree, climb up to jug rail, then climb up a blunt arete with left hand and straight up obvious features.

FA: Scott Noy, 2014

Start from a nook to the right of a tree. Head diagonally left behind the tree, then straight up to a roof. Place good pro at the decent holds just over the lip. A couple of thin, strenuous moves gain you the headwall. Head up and a little right, past rails and a pocket, to the top. Beware, there may be some loose rock low down.

FA: phlip olivier, Willem le Roux & Danie Moolman, 4 Apr 2015

Pull off the ground on good rails. Pass the blank section with a long reach off an undercling. Place a blue alien (or equivalent) in the undercling feature to prevent a ground fall. A series of stretchy moves takes you past a ledge to the top. May be harder if you are vertically challenged.

FA: phlip olivier, Willem le Roux & Danie Moolman, 4 Apr 2015

Start with left hand on undercling, boulder up and right then do a long move up to crimp and climb up to ledge. Climb the overhang wall, first on good holds then some dynamic final moves to finish.

FA: Roland Hemetzberger, 2018

Start with good rail, traverse right move up using pocket...

FA: James Pearson, 2014

Start with two pockets, big move up, climb up past big flake and continue up through roof and up headwall.

FA: James Pearson, 2014

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Selected Guidebooks more Nascondi

Autore/i: Tony Lourens

Data: 2023

ISBN: 9780796123541

A definitive guidebook covering all the sport climbing found throughout the whole of the Cederberg mountain range, describing 436 sport routes across a wide range of grades from F4b to F9a.

Alloggi in zona more Nascondi

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