Vie in Sud Africa del grado selezionato

Takes the obvious breaks up the buttress just upstream of ZENITH RIDGE.

1. 25m 21 Ascend the shallow corner until able to pull onto easier ground above. Move slightly right and then climb diagonally left to the base of the obvious finger-crack. Follow this to a stance with tree.

Start 3m downstream of MHLABATINI CHIMNEY on the true left side of the kloof.

1. 25m 21 Climb easily up to a large ledge. Continue up a jamb-crack in a downstream facing corner. At the top of the corner the going gets tough. Continue up a layback crack to a common stance with ZENITH RIDGE.

2. 25m 17 Climb up the chimney. Move right then up to a stance.

1. same

2. Pitch 2 can be climbed more directly by continuing up the crack and through the chimney crack above. A lack of handholds makes this route technical and strenuous and is somewhat more difficult than freeing the original aid (21).

Start from a chimney between the large boulder and the kloof wall at KLOOF DESCENT.

1. 9m 15 Climb across rightwards to a tree. Continue rightwards with an awkward mantleshelf onto a large ledge and tree belay.

2. 28m 21 Ascend the layback crack on the left of the tree (5m) then step left and up to a protruding ledge below a short steep wall. Climb the recess on its left using a nut to gain the ledge above the steep wall. Move up the groove, step right and up to the bulge. Swing left into a short groove with a good jamming crack and up this to the overhang. Move back right into the original groove and up to a large ledge and peg belay.

3. 9m 15 Gain the horizontal break in the left wall and up into the cubbyhole. Move across left, around the arete and along the ledge to a belay in the corner above the tree.

4. 22m 15 Ascend the corner and traverse right below the overhang to a small tree. Move up 1.5m and up right onto a slab, then up a short steep groove. Continue up rightwards to the top.

Note:

A fine route. Pitch 2 provides sustained climbing with great variety on good rock.

About 50m below the wade pool, the kloof opens up for a short while on the true left. Just upstream of this, there is a sloping ramp rising upstream. SEARCH starts 10m upstream of the widening of the kloof.

1. 25m 21 Climb awkward crack from ground level for 5m to gain the sloping ramp. Move into recess on orange rock with small roof 10m above the sloping ramp. Continue to top.

On the same side as GRINALDUS, about 100m downstream two roofs are visible - the first about 15m above the stream bed, the second 10m above the first. Scramble up to a stance below the first roof.

1. 25m 21 Step off a block and do a difficult move through and up to a ledge (tree belay) under the next roof. An immaculate move takes you through the next roof.

Same start as STATE OF INDEPENDENCE.

1. 30m 17 Climb the first pitch of STATE OF INDEPENDENCE and continue up the left hand crack for 5m. Traverse awkwardly left to a small tree.

2. 25m 21 Step right from the tree and climb the steep crack above to a small stance. Continue up the recess on the right.

Essentially a direct version of DEXTER.

1. 20m 21 Start directly below the stance at the end of the first pitch of DEXTER. Climb up short open book to a roof. Awkward moves through the roof, then climb the corner above moving left onto the face at the top to gain the stance.

2. 12m 10 Scramble up the corner and chimney behind the stance to a belay point on top of a flat boulder on the right.

3. 43m 20 Ascend the right hand of two cracks to a ledge with a tree. move left behind the tree and up another short crack and continue to the top.

Note: The first free ascent was in Aug 1987 by S. Middlemiss and M. Hyslop.

First ascent: 16 Nov 1986 R. Dodding and P. Greenfield (Pitch 1); Feb 1969 A.D. Barley and M. White (Pitch 3).

Climbs through the large overhangs guarding the base of the crag near HIGH NOON. This is approximately 50-70m downstream of DEXTER. The route follows some obvious cracks through the roofs (about 5m above the streambed) into a shallow chimney/corner, which is followed to easier ground.

1. 15m 21 Climb up to the roof and move gymnastically through to the chimney, follow this past a small tree to easier ground.

A good climb up the steep wall. New anchors put up in May 2015 (MCSA).

Climb THE BLOODY BARON for five bolts, then break right across a slab until under a black corner with a prominent crack. Swarm up the crack to an overhang and move left through it to the slab and chains above. New anchors May2015 (MCSA)

Start outside the left corner of the cave, finishes up a highly visible yellow lichen covered face. Mostly right-facing. Pumpy start sure to get your blood flowing for greater things in the cave!

UP TO ROUGH BREAK RIGHT THROUGH OVERHANG

FROM MID STANCE ON THE RIGHT FACING SLAB UP THE ARETE AND INTO THE CRACK SYSTEM TO TOP

Continue past Too thin to ride to the 3rd recess.Climb the obvious crack running right of the left facing wall. Existing route but not in original route guide. Unknown bolter or original name, excellent climb.

On the arête, 3m from Asymetric. Climb up the obvious arête, following the bolts to the chains on top.

Start up a thin face with technical climbing up a shallow break. Pull through the triangular roof above on the right and climb to top.

A hard line. The climb uses a very sharp hold high up. Climb the overhanging nose right of Chockstone Crack, move to the top using two vita l holds on the left of the nose. The crux was once in days back done with aid (16/A2). Avoid using the side holds and the grade goes up to 22 (bit silly not using them though...)

Start up the short smooth face to the faint crack line 1.5m left of the nose. Can be climbed straight through the bolt line at the crux. If you choose to layback, there may be a temptation to use easier holds far out right. Climb the headwall slab to lower-offs..

Climb up the well defined crack with hand-jam to cubby hole. Pull out left onto the smooth buttress at the roof. Watch the rope on sharp edges when lowering-off. Reachy. Originally graded 22.

About 3m to the right of BLACK MAGIC is a large obvious corner. Climb directly up to the corner after negotiating the initial overhang, climb the corner (crux) and continue straight up crack above without stepping right onto easier rock (a superb direct line).

At the right hand end of the big cave. About 4m to the right, and around the corner from the start of STARGAZER is a crack up an overhanging recess. Climb this (crux) and follow easy cracks to the top.

To the right of CRYSTAL CANYONS is an overhanging bulge with a tree at its base (in the centre). Up the wall/bulge are 2 thin cracks on either side of the tree. Climb the left hand crack.

Climb up nose right of Knersis using hangers and expansion bolts.

On the far left hand side of the main cliff, starting from the ground follow the evident crack to the top. Bottom bolt keeps rope out of climbers way. First Ascent: BB: Derek Pienaar & Andries Smit. Nov 2002

Start as for ZEPPELIS but rail left above the bulge 1,5m and balance up into a corner. Move left on a higher crack for a further 1m to reach corner/crack. Continue up the corner to the top.

Crank off the ground 3m to the right of ZEPPELIS and proceed straight up keeping off the ridge.

A short but fun bouldery climb to the right of CRANKER. Standing right underneath the jutted corner, hang and dyno up to the groove further up on the nose. Be careful if continuing to the top since there are no bolts.

Small Boulder located under a tree, approximately 100m from entrance following the wall.

sit start lay back the crack to the top

Sit start with two good crimps slapping for a sloppy jug traversing to your left top-out in 5 moves. It's a good idea to have a couple of spotters as the fall down the embankment would suck.

To get this grade, stick to a line about 30cm left/right of the 2nd and 3rd bolt. Alternatively, move right into the corner at about grade 16. This route is bolted with U-Bolts.

Very short and bouldery. Try to stay straight in line with the bolts.

Climb the (often wet) corner system leading up to the roof. The crux is to break through this to the chains. Alternatively go aorund left at about grade 18.

Starts just right of MOSTLY HARMLESS. Long and sustained.

A very thin start followed by some easier moves above the ledge. Tricky move to reach the chains.

Use a 60m rope for this one! Facy start, easy but fun finish.

Start up a vertical break. After the ledge, move diagonally right into the corner which leads through the large roofs above. Safest to use a 60m rope.

Intense start, eases up after that

Shares first 2 draws with Squeaker, then keeps left of it

Move left at Ex Girlfriend Crack third bolt. A higher exit lowers the grade to 19.

Strenuous moves up and left to the large block then up to the chains.

Climb just right of the green groove. Anchors shared with Genesis.

Starts 1m right of ToB at a vertical crack. The route crosses WoS at half height to finish 2m right of it. Climb up the thin crack until one can traverse right, crossing WoS. Climb up to a small ledge. Continue above the ledge on steep rock to a recess in the roofs above, and the anchors.

Follow the obvious crack to a ledge and then break out slightly left

Traverse left under roof on easy rock, then through overhang and tops out left.

First ascent by Eke Zsolt from Hungary on Easter 2011.

Stand start left of eagle Owl.Start with a big jug and climb the small overhang and onto the face with a rail and top out.

Climb the second overhang to the right of sketchy.Top Out.

Follows the straight crack on the left side of the face. Directly left of 'Pick of Destiny'. Permission has been given to retro-bolt.

Starts left of tree. Sketchy bouldery start to some great gear a few meters up. Follow natural slotted bomber flakes up, straight up to the tip of the cliff line. Permission has been given to retro bolt.

Starts under the tiny roof a few meters up. Follow the crack that bisects the roof all the way to the top at the anchor tree. This is an uberclassic.

This climb is 2-3m left of 'Als Bells' and perhaps 10m downhill on a west-facing slab. 2-3m right of 'Hotspot' there is a weakness up to the high 1st bolt; climb thinly to the anchors above the overlap.

This route starts at the base of a huge, well established two-stemmed tree. Climb the layback under a small roof, using the finger 24 crack to step up and left onto the ledge. Then onto the face with fun climbing to chains.

A short route 20m left of 'FUG'.

Head straight through rhe overlap into interesting bouldery stuff.

Badly bolted weak effort about 3m left of 'Goose On a Loose'.

The second pitch of 'Gem Squash'. Traverse left from the finishing ledge of G'Gem Squash' and be prepared for some well-deserved ambiance. Can be done in one massive pitch with enough extender slings below the first set of chains. 70m+. A 60m rope will be just good enough to abseil from the final chains. MCSA bolts!

Climb 'Jenga' till the 2nd last bolt. Then thru the roof just right of 'Jenga' to ledge, then continue to higher anchors.

The first line on this face, probably now partially occupied by 'Toolbox' (above). Scramble up left past the start of 'Rodan', to a narrow ledge. Start on the left of the ledge, just left of the stacked blocks. Straight up a short face, though the overlap and up to below the roof. Rail left to the break in the roof, pull up to the next rail, and then move back right until you can pull up onto the grey ramp. Move slightly left and up the narrow, brown corner, stepping right at the top. Finish up the face between the aloes to the top.

Starts 15m left of 'The God No Wall' 'Rodan' in a break through the foliage. Unbelievable that this line has been overlooked. Great line with varied climbing the whole way.

Tie a knot in the end of your rope!

Start on u-bolts as per 'Alice in Grannyland' and sneak around the right of the arête onto hangers till the top.

Love of trees. Just right of 'Bittergal' is a recess. Climb the bolts using the tree to get onto the fun stuff. Colin's grab-tree is a rather unique feature on this climb, let’s hope it stays there.

Just right of 'Brolloks', great, bit cruxier than 'Brolloks'. Climb up to the ledge then move left after 4th bolt, and up bolts up to your left. Can also use the 'Brolloks' start.

The crack line.

Climb the face left of 'Smokey the Bear' up to the overhang, pull through the overhang onto a small ledge, continue up the face to the chains.

about 5m left of 'Wicked'.

Left of the open book, railing out right on top.

Thin face climb between 'Angel of Mercy' and 'The Winnebago Smile'. Name written on the rock.

Climb the short face to a thin seam and up this into a right facing corner. The route name was overheard at the local cafe. This climb was opened on trad, retrobolted and called “YOU MEAN THAT'S IT.”

This climb starts around the corner & to the right of 'Please Don't Touch', and moves out left over the V-shaped roof at about 2m. Using the arête gain the crack system which trends up right to the chains at the top.

Climb the thin face just right of 'Rocky's', staying on the face (Going left makes it easier).

An interesting adventure. Starting in the bush on the far left, traverse right on easy ground with great views out over the tree canopy. Extend the 1st 4 draws to minimize drag on the headwall. Clean by top-roping.