Vie in Gloucestershire

Two contrasting pitches that combine to give a sustained and complex line up the walls left of the edge of the North Wall. Described here with the direct variation on pitch one. Start at a clear patch of rock 5m left of the corner of The Angel's Eye.

1. 5c, 25m. Move up left onto a ledge and peg. Climb the tricky wall above to another peg and transfer left to a groove and cracks in orange-stained rock. Move up to the overhang and pull over (peg) and up the short wall to a good ledge. Traverse left along the ledge to a belay below a block.

2. 5c, 32m. From the top of the block, go right and back left to the base of a flared rib. Follow the thin and technical rib, past a peg, to better holds. Move up and then head for a short crack on the right that leads to easier ground and The Great Ledge.

Direct through the overhangs on Big brother.

Well-travelled, with the second pitch being particularly good. Start about 10m up the slope right of the edge of the buttress at a corner that heads up through vegetation.

1. 4a, 21m. Follow the corner to a ledge and continue up the cleanest rock on a rib to the right to a ledge and tree belay.

2. 4c, 28m. Head up to a spike of rock (thread) in a small corner and then move carefully up and leftwards to a wall and thin crack (peg). Climb the wall above to a ledge (peg) and then on up to a small overhang (peg). Traverse right to a couple of corners that lead to the Great Ledge. Belay at the abseil station.

Start as for Joe's Route but near first peg runner trend right and climb the arete/corner with little protection until able to pull over large block on left and stand up (bomber cam in the back). Climb to good peg then continue to in-situ belay.

plenty of pro on first pitch, properly respected and looked after, the oak sapling will make an excellent runner. Second pitch is "balls out," no pro on solid 4c ledges that require bold mantling moves and therefore gets its well deserved HVS status. Once on the 2nd pitch there is no going back.

Location - Small Wall is reached by following the guide book description for Narcotic Corner & 'Suicide is Dangerous'. From the Beech tree in front of Suicide, descend 3 metres to the multi stemmed tree, then traverse left (facing out) until under Small Wall. 'One For Button' takes an independent line through the break in the overhang to the left of 'Under a Raging Moon' (see guidebook) Description - Start where the rock has been cleaned in the centre of the wall, then traverse slightly left and straight up through several horizontal breaks to the thread. Move up (good friend placement), before reaching for a good pocket. Pull through with a long reach to another small finger pocket directly above, then stretch out right (good friend) for a good hold(s). High step onto the upper wall for more good holds, protection and a rest. Climb the delightful technical wall above (peg) with a few difficult, thin moves and eventual slap to the ledge. (easier for those with a long reach). Abseil station now in place on the ledge. (A Second ascent awaits !! ) Additional info - Small Wall has been extensively cleaned, as has four of the existing routes in the guidebook. Three of these routes have also had their original threads replaced. 'Under a Raging Moon' (E2 5c) deserves a star. There is a second abseil station now in place for this route and the adjacent route 'Northerners Can't Climb' (E1 5b). 'Amoeba' (E1 5a) and 'Tiswas' (HS 4b) have been cleaned and compliment the other 3 routes.

The only sensible access to this route and others on Small Wall now are via the Guide books description to Narcotic corner and Suicide is dangerous. The climb and its neighbours have been extensively cleaned, in-situ threads have been replaced and an Abseil station installed on the ledge above instead of using the tree. From the Beech tree in front of Suicide, walk 3 metres down the bank to a multi stemmed tree, traverse left (facing out) round the tree until under Small Wall. Use the Guide book from here. A great little route and a gem of a little crag now it has been cleaned.

Follows the wide earthy corner to the right of 'Northerners can't climb', then up a steep wall with a tricky mantel to finish.

Small Wall - An existing route with original peg and new tat. Climbs the right face of Tiswas (HS 4b) to the upper break, then finishes up that route. The route compliments the other three E grade routes at the crag, now it has been cleaned.

The route is located on the 'Original Sector' of the Great Wall and is currently in the Lower Wye Valley guide book. The first pitch (5c) has now been extensively cleaned, the lower thread has been replaced and the pegs check out ok. The second pitch (5c) needed little cleaning. The route offers some very fine climbing, a little bold in places and certainly deserved to be recovered from the undergrowth.

A long ramble up to the left of the easy way down. Start is an obvious cleared patch. From here ramble your way up the cliff following the occasional peg and plenty of shrubs for threads.

A variation on John's Route on the second pitch.

Pitch 2 - 45m, from the second overhang trend rightwards (rather than going left) to some vegetated ledges. Follow the shorter hard wall to easier ground and some cool quartz holds. Continue on to an overgrown top out. Difficult to find a good belay, maybe a couple of rotten tree roots or the stone wall, or risk the traffic on the road?!

Just left of the bottom of The Easy Way Down is a heavily shaded wall. The wall left of the disjointed square-cut grooves has a bouldery start and easier but bold climbing above.

Start at the disjointed square-cut grooves. A good pitch with some committing moves to link the initial grooves.

The blunt borehole rib between Paul's Wall and Grey Wall. Independent climbing but runners are easily placed in adjacent routes. Add a grade for a blinkered solo

Start at the pocketed wall 3 metres left of the end of the 'Easy Way Down'. Climb direct to the ledge, then follow the crack and groove. Trend slightly right to finish at a tree belay.

The left side of the arete with gear midway is a good-looking line but little-travelled and a bit grubby at the start.

Four contrasting pitches split by good belay ledges. The difficulties on the second pitch are 'traditional' meaning probably harder than VDiff! Start at a tree at the base of a vertical corner that is at the beginning of The Easy Way Down.

1. 23m. Climb the corner with a thin crack, and another couple of corners above it, to a huge flat ledge with various tree belays.

2. 4a, 10m. Can be avoided on the right. Walk right to a well defined hand crack. Boulder up the fun wall and overlap just to its left and then the more technical polished groove in the next wall. Belay at a tree and cracks in the short wall above.

3. 18m. The buttress above is climbed via an excellent crack just left of two small trees. Belay on good ledges above.

4. 12m. Climb a thin hand crack up the centre of the final buttress just right of a tree. Belay at the top on flat ledges.

Like its near neighbour, there is lots of entertainment to be had on this route including some tough but avoidable moves on the third pitch and a fine arete on the fourth. Start at a corner 5m down and right of the beginning of The Easy Way Down.

1. 10m. Climb the slightly earthy corner to ledges (on The Easy Way Down) and belay at a tree.

2. 18m. Just to the right is a short rectangular section of rock, above which is a wide crack. Gain the wall right of the crack and climb it boldly to a ledge above the wide crack. Head up right of a tree to a corner and take this to a huge flat ledge. Walk right to belay at a 3m well-defined hand-crack.

3. 4a, 10m. Nip up the hand-crack and then move over to below a short well-scratched finger-crack. Climb the crack - hard - and then easy ground to belay below a short slab just right of a tree.

4. 18m. Climb the short slab and move up to under the blocky arete of the buttress above. The arete, started on its right-hand side, is excellent. Belay on good ledges above.

5. 12m. The crack-line up the final buttress gives a fine finish. Belay at the very top of the crag on flat ledges.

A swerving and sustained line on good rock and holds.

This is the popular first pitch of an old multi-pitch climb. Above the first pitch, much of the rock is vegetated and not described here. Start at a clean area of rock 15m down and right of The Easy Way Down. Climb the easiest line, passing the overhangs on the right, to a block on a large flat ledge. The break in the short wall above gains the ledge of The Easy Way Down and a tree belay.

Another popular first pitch of a multi-pitch climb. Much of the rock above the first pitch is vegetated and not described here. Start on the far left side of the Black Wall and climb the easiest line past the right end of a ledge with a block on it to meet the ledge of the Easy Way Down and various belay options.

The Severe finish to the 'Direct Route' on the third pitch. Climb the steep wall behind the belay for 15m.

A small rockfall has left some loose rock low down. Start 1m left of the thin crack of Black Wall. Climb direct past some dubious rock to a thread just right of a sapling. Finish up the wall above in common with Black Wall.

08/05/2016 - It has been report that the upper thread is no long viable due to the rock failing after a fall. Take care on future ascents and back up the other left-hand side thread!

A sting in the tail. Climb directly up the wall behind the right ash to the prominent bulge (in situ thread just below). Pull round slightly rightwards to reach easier ground and then The Broadwalk. Tree belay above. Less adrenalin flows for an easier finish (HVS 5a, and just independent of Black Wall) from the thread up the left-hand side of the bulge.

Black Wall Area, right of Save Me from Tomorrow. Climb the right side of the slim wall right of the corner, with occasional use of holds round the blunt arete, to a small, bushy tree. Step right above the tree and climb up with some difficulty past two flattened bolts to the terrace. The bolts can be threaded, which is just as well, as there's no other gear. Not sure if this route will be welcomed/allowed. Parts of it certainly climbed before. Form an orderly queue with complaints!

From the Broadwalk climb the short corner immediatly left of the third silver birch from the right. Ascend as direct as possible over ledges and short walls to Terry's Wall

On Terry's Wall. A direct line between Terry's left hand and right hand finishes. Worthwhile.

On the right side of Terry's Wall. From the belay ledge, mount blocky ledges on the right, move onto the wall, and climb cracks 1-2 metres right of Terry's Gone Crackers to a grassy ledge (with holly) on the right. Move up and stride left; then climb directly to some projecting holds near the top. Exit leftwards to avoid clifftop looseness.

A very good pitch. Begin at the large open corner. Take the corner for 10m to a thread and transfer to a ledge to its left (peg). Follow the small rib above until moves rightward reach a thread (not in place) just left of the base of the Yr Herwehla narrow corner/groove high on the face. From a foot-ledge above, (peg) locate a small, thin, left-leading crack and make some intricate moves up it and the wall above to reach a good break (some shattered rock here). Go right 2m and then up easy angled rock and some flakes to a belay on The Easy Way Down ledges. It is possible to descend from the Microserf lower-off after the hardest climbing.

Sustained climbing with the main difficulties in the narrow corner/groove. Start at the large open corner, as for Valley Forge. Climb the corner (thread) and short steeper section at its top before moving right and up to a thread (not in place) just left of the base of the narrow corner/groove high on the face. Enter the narrow corner/groove and climb it to a tricky exit and ledge above. Finish as for Valley Forge, up easier angled rock and flakes to a belay on The Easy Way Down ledges. It is possible to move right to the bolt belay/lower-off at the end of pitch one of Therapy after the hard exit from the narrow corner/groove.

A semi-sport climb that can be done as a single pitch. Begin right of the large open corner at some black stuck-on rock.

1. 5c, 27m. Move up to a horizontal break and then go left and up a crack past a peg and on to reach a ledge and peg. Follow the bolts and pegs above up a groove, over a bulge and past a flake and another groove to a double-bolt belay.

2. 5c, 10m. Move up past a bolt to a crack and another bolt above it. Head leftwards to finish at a ledge just left of the roof. This ledge is on The Easy Way Down.

Left hand start to Therapy, up the steep slab past a peg.

An interesting top section with reasonable protection, but it might be more enjoyable to start up Pulp Friction and traverse right above the lower roof.

Starts from 2 bolt belay above and right of the first pitch of Therapy. Gained by easy rising RW traverse from the stance of that route, or by abseil from near the easy way down. Step R and climb up to where you can span L from the crack to a good flake hold. Go through small roof; then dyno for jugs on ramp-line. Finish more easily, but with no further bolts, to an abseil station.

Climb the dusty red rib for a couple of metres until a short traverse left gains an old peg and thread (belonging to some long forgotten route, I don’t know which). Now climb up the rib above on interesting holds avoiding the poorer rock to the right. Next move up with good gear to a horizontal slot. Taking care with the rock, pull up under the roof and bridge right, 2 pegs. Now pull up to the right over the lip, peg, and make a short traverse right along the break to join up with Whatever the Weatherley. Finish as for Whatever the Weatherley.

A few metres to the left of Loan Shark is a large cave. Start in the centre of the cave.

From the cave floor mantle up onto the dusty ledge on the right. Traverse right along the ledge to the arete, a thin crack and the first gear. Move up the rib to a peg. Now using caution, move up and left through a patch of poor rock, and attain a bridged position above the apex of the cave. Now move over the roof past an old flattened staple bolt. Continue over more steep rock to an easing under a final overhang (keeping to the right of VapourWare). Pull over the final roof keeping away from the line of flattened staple bolts to the right (Foot in Mouth?). The climb now joins VapourWare after its flake crack and finishes at its two bolt belay.

Start at a groove below 4 pegs in a slabby wall. Climb the groove to a break, pass the pegs with increasing difficulty to reach a ledge. Continue up the wall above to reach a bushy ledge and 2-bolt belay/lower-off.

Start at the bolt belay of Loan Shark (which can be reached by traversing in from Bottle Buttress). Climb the slabby wall past two bolts and a peg to reach easy ground and a 2-bolt belay/lower-off.

Nice route with meandering traverses.

Plenty of interesting climbing though the line is a little meandering and grassy in places. Start at left end of the second ledge of the approach scramble – a bolt high on the wall above is easily seen but not on the line of this route.

1. 4c, 24m. Move up to below an overlap and then gain a slim corner on the left with difficulty (peg). Climb the corner and, when level with a tree on the left, traverse a break to gain the tree. A wide rib above is followed to a good ledge and tree belay.

2. 4c, 14m. Above is a thin thread in a pocketed crack (also on Bottle Buttress). Climb the crack to a ledge and then up the easier wall just right of a tree to a ledge, tree and block belays.

3. 4c, 35m. Climb a ragged crack up on the left and then continue up a slab to grassy ground. Head left to a crack on the left-hand side of the steep wall above. Move up the crack and use holds on the right to reach easier but broken ground and follow this to a tree belay. The Easy Way Down is off to the left.

Climb a small hidden groove 3 metres right of the large roofed groove, and move left on a ledge above the crack of Coda. Climb up on good holds slightly leftwards and then back right to stand above a bramble ledge. Now climb directly past a peg, the break a hollow sounding flake. Pull up above the bush to the last moves of bottle buttress to a tree belay.

Extremely hard lower section makes for enjoyable climbing in the easier 2nd pitch.

First pitch is steep and quite sustained. One or two good moves through the overhangs make it interesting and worthwhile.

Start at the tree and bushes 5m left of the foot of 'clutching at straws'. Boldly climb the arete on delicate flow stone, tree runner, past a hidden borehole (M/L cam) to the right, to a stepped ledge system. Step up to the foot of the continuing arete carefully, to reach blocks and various protection options. Continue up the arete above, steeply on suspect rock, turning it to its left, past good gear, to reach a perched blocky flake. Surmount this, thus finishing the arete and trend leftwards to an exit. Pass through bushes, past a substantial tree and 2 rock tiers to reach the left most extreme of the central rib exits. Tree belay at top, fence is becoming delapedated.