Nodo |
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South Wales |
Pembroke
Perfect rock, perfect gear, a big tide range and as much isolation and adventure as you're willing to go looking for. |
Pembroke |
Pembroke North
This area covers Cardigan Bay to Milford Haven (CC Guidebook Vol 1) |
Pembroke Pembroke North |
Carreg-y-Barcud |
Pembroke Pembroke North Carreg-y-Barcud |
Grey Face |
HVS 5a ★★★ Ethos |
E2 5b
★★ The Woodentops
The crack line to the right of Ethos. Finish left and top out at the same point as Ethos (thereby avoiding the loose rock). |
HS 4b Bananarama |
Yellow Wall |
HS 4b ★ Yellow Edge |
E3 5c Pass the Parkin on the Left-hand Side |
E2 5c Be Clever |
E1 5b ★★ Sinecure |
E3 6a ★★ The Hypocrite |
E3 5b Octopus |
HVS 4c Granny Basher |
HVS 5a ★ Gentlemen's Corner |
VS 4c Agent Orange |
Main Face |
VD ★ Left Edge |
E1 5b My Back Pages |
HS 4b ★ Metamorphosis |
E1 5a Be-bop-a-lula |
E2 5b Be Reckless |
E1 5b ★ Be Brave |
E1 5a
★★ The Great Valerio
The traverse following the obvious horizontal break across the left side of Main Wall. |
E1 5b
★★★ Beyond the Azimuth
The striking leftward rising diagonal crack. Fantastic. |
E2 5c
★★ Stingray
Start from the ledge at 4m height. Starting from the low ledge is 6b! |
E1 5a Be Careful |
VS 4c ★ Roger the Pidgeon |
E8 6b Daddy Cool |
Pembroke Pembroke North |
Caerfai Bay |
Pembroke Pembroke North Caerfai Bay |
Porth-clais
At the head of Porth-Claus Harbour you'll find some great climbs. Popular with groups but we'll worth a visit on a personal trip with an amazing slab wall. |
Pembroke Pembroke North Caerfai Bay Porth-clais |
VD
Harbour crack
A wide crack at the left of the crag. |
HS 4b
Glaze crack
Follow the line with some technical moves. |
HS 4b
Porth clias Crack
Classic route starting just to the left of diagonal crack, climb the middle of the slab up a impressive crack. A must do. |
S 4a
Diagonal Crack
Follow the big diagonal crack until it moves around the corner. Make sure you're well protected on the corner becuase once you move around and upward you'll be struggling to find gear. Easy climbing though. All in all a great route. |
VS 4c
Vegetables rights
Climb up past some pockets and a little left. |
HS 4b
All Lines Engaged
Climb to the diagonal break, then a thin crack. |
VS 4c
Sea Rider
Follow the crack away from the arete. |
HVS 5a
Dreamboat Annie
Right hand side of the slab before going around the corner. Very small and spaced out protection. Traverse right and climb the arete. |
S 4a
Inset
Far right of the crag, straight up the tight corner. A little unprotected at the top. |
VS 4c
Frieze
Once again starting on the diagonal crack then up the small cracks. |
Pembroke Pembroke North Caerfai Bay |
Caerfai Beach |
Craig Caerfai
Great slab venue, the climbs are very good for their grade. Can be accessed at high tide with no swell. Best at low tide, avoid in bad condition. |
Pembroke Pembroke North Caerfai Bay Craig Caerfai |
HS 4b
White wall
To the right of Mildred mind wrap. Climb slab on the first small ledge then continue up twin cracks. |
VS 4c
★★★ Nameless
Climb up the blank slab to the rectangular legde. Carry on up small cracks until the large triangular crack and the then top out. |
HVS 5a
Unknown sentry
Climb up the delicate blank slab with little to no protection until you meet horizontal cracks half way. Place some small cams/micros before following cracks to a winder triangular break (across from nameless) top out a slightly higher tear. |
VS 4c
★★ The Bryn
Abseil in check stakes. |
HS 4b
★★ Caerfai Crack
Abseil in check stakes. |
D
White corner
Up the very easy corner to a stake belay at the top. Watch out for people abseiling onto you. |
VS 4b
Submarine Slab
Abseil in check stakes. |
D
Scorch groove
Follow the deep scrambleish corner until your underneath a large block. The with little to no protection make a bold move right under the bludge, move up and around until you're in the next corner. Continue with little to no protection up the loose, messy corner to a stake belay. |
E2 5b
★★ Orogeny
Abseil in check stakes. |
VS 4c
★★★ Armorican
Abseil in check stakes. |
HS 4b
★★★ Mildred mindwrap
Climb up to on the left most part of the crag to a ledge below the arete, climb the arete then follow a crack leading right. |
E2 5b
Age gap
Climb the right crack on small protection until it meets age concern. Climb up past a peg and direct to the overlap then to finish. |
Pembroke Pembroke North Caerfai Bay |
Penpleidau Promontory |
Pembroke Pembroke North |
Porthclais - Ffynnon |
Pembroke Pembroke North Porthclais - Ffynnon |
E1 5b ★★ Saltheart Foam Follower |
VS 4c ★★ Purple People Eater |
VS 4c ★ Ffynnon Ffynnon Ffynnon |
VD Apex Arete |
HS 4b ★ Brown Slab |
S 4a ★ Slab Recess |
VD ★ The Crack |
VS 4c Cracked Wall |
HVS 5a Slab Happy |
VS 4c Just Another Route |
D Rising Damp |
HVS 4c Technical Ecstasy |
S 4a Late Harvest |
VD Allergic to Common Sense |
E1 5b ★ Aqua plane |
Pembroke Pembroke North |
St David's Head |
Pembroke Pembroke North St David's Head |
HVS 5a Overhanging Buttress |
D
The Rake
Climb the slab then continue up the crack above to a grassy belay. |
Pembroke Pembroke North |
Porth-Clais |
Pembroke Pembroke North Porth-Clais |
HS 4b ★★ The Arete |
E1 5a ★★★ Dreamboat Annie |
VD Against the Grain |
VD Harbour Crack |
HS 4b Glaze Crack |
HS 4b Porth-Clais Crack |
VS 4c Vegetable Rights |
VS 4c Frieze |
S 4a ★ Diagonal Crack |
HS 4b All Lines Engaged |
VS 4c Sea Rider |
S 4a Inset |
HS 4b Ship of Fools |
HS 4b Zawn Climb |
D Porth-Clais Corner |
VD The Cracker |
S 4a ★★ Red Adair |
VS 4c ★★ Red Wall |
D Porth-Clais Chimney |
Pembroke Pembroke North |
Trwyn Llwyd |
Pembroke Pembroke North Trwyn Llwyd |
HVS 5b ★ Inversion |
E1 5b ★ Arabian Slug |