Grado | Via | Stile equipaggiamento | Popolarità | Falesia | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
5.11c | ★★★ Yaak Crack | 15m | Red Rock | ||
5.11c | ★★ A Day in the Life | 15m | Red Rock | ||
5.11c | ★★★ Banshee
First few bolts of Abiyoyo but right from the perma. Fight your way to the huge hueco and enjoy the brilliant jugs above. | 30m | Red River Gorge | ||
5.11c | ★★ Spirit Fingers
FA: Craig Smith, 1997 | 21m, 7 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.11c | ★★ Heresy
Bouldery little beast from the ground to the anchors. Fabulous fun and worth the 10 metres of trauma. | 10m | Smith Rock State Park | ||
5.11c | ★★ Sister of Pain | 20m | Red Rock | ||
V3 | ★★ Hobbit Hole | Pawtuckaway State Park | |||
5.11c | ★★★ Witness the Citrus
Some absolutely insane terrain for the grade, busting through some fairly substantial roofs with general steepness in between. A wild ride. FA: Dario Ventura, 2011 | 29m, 12 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.11c | ★★★ Levitation 29
1
5.10a
2
5.11a
3
5.8
4
5.10b
5
5.11c
6
5.10c
7
5.10d
8
5.8
9
5.9
FA: George Urioste, Joanne Urioste & Bill Bradley, 1981 FFA: Lynn Hill, John Long & Joanne Urioste, 1981 | 300m, 9, 20 | Red Rock | ||
5.11c | ★★★ Crown of Thorns
Leftmost route under the arch | 21m | Red River Gorge | ||
YDS_ALT:5.11+ V3 | ★★★ Gunsmoke
Ultra classic traverse from left to right. The best way to get pumped in Joshua Tree. Don’t sit down at the rest for more than thirty seconds!! | 25m | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.11c | ★★ Groundwork
Perma draws from bolt 2 upwards | 17m, 9 | Maple Canyon | ||
V3 | ★★★ King Tut | 3m | Buttermilks | ||
5.11c | ★★ Phantom Pain
FA: Dustin Stephens, 2013 | 20m, 9 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.11c | ★★ Apocalypse Later
FA: Greg McCausland, 1988 | 18m, 6 | Rumney | ||
5.11c | ★★ Have a Beer with Fear
| 9m, 4 | Red Rock | ||
V3 | ★★ Mandatory Overload
FA: Kory Cooper-Fenske | Acadia National Park | |||
5.11c | ★★★ License To Thrill | American Fork Canyon | |||
5.11c | ★★★ Sancho Belige | 23m | New River Gorge | ||
5.11c | ★★ Officer Friendly | 10m | Denver | ||
5.11c | ★★ Cereal Killer
FA: Tim Kemple Sr., 1999 | 24m, 8 | Rumney | ||
5.11c | ★★ Lynx Jinx
Steep but with less than perfect rock in a couple of spots. Still very worthwhile | 21m, 7 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.11c | ★★ Desert Pickle | Red Rock | |||
5.11c | ★★★ Overboard | 25m, 8 | Smith Rock State Park | ||
5.11c | ★★★ The Regular North Face Route
| 280m, 8 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.11c | ★ Relaxed Atmosphere
FA: Porter Jarrard & Jamie Baker, 1991 | 18m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.11c IV | ★★★ Astroman
This is what it's all about, pitch after pitch of demanding, ultra high quality climbing on excellent stone w/ a surpassing view. Almost all the pitches would be highly sought after if they were base routes and three or four would be mega classics. If you don't think this climb is great, either you're just being contrary or you need to find another sport. Bibliographic Note 1: supertopo.com has an excellent free topo download for this climb that most will find more useful than the following route description: http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/Yosemite-Valley-Washington-Column-Astroman Bibliographic Note 2: An old issue Rock and Ice (from the 80s) had an article by Bob Yoho providing the pitch by pitch "betamax" - move by move sequences for all the cruxes -- on this route. This is amusing to look at after you do the climb, but it will probably just confuse you beforehand. Approach: Walk east from the Awahnee on a road for about 15 minutes until you encounter a climber's trail on the left which heads up to Column. The climber's trail can be hard to spot in low light, so if you're getting an early start, it's worth scoping out at least this much of the approach beforehand. The climber's trail continues past the start of AM which is more or less directly below the obvious right-facing 'enduro' corner. After leaving the main climber's trail, scramble up ledges to a small ledge with a tree which is where the climb starts. Without route finding errors, the approach can be done in an easy 45 minutes. P1: Trend up and right on easy vegetated ground for about 100' to a ledge with anchors. This bushy pitch can be wet and unpleasant in spring. It makes sense to skip this belay and continue up a right facing layback w/ finger jams (short stretch of 10a) on steeper, nicer rock for about another 50 feet to another set of anchors; if you plan on doing the easier version of the next pitch, belay here, otherwise traverse left 20' and belay at the base of a thin crack. 10a 170-190' P2: The Boulder Problem. Option 1 the traditional Boulder Problem: From the left end of the ledge, climb up a thin crack, fiddle in some small nuts, bust some fingery, footless, old school 11c moves (the technical crux of the route), reach a ledge/flake and traverse right 20, then up another 20'of ±5.9 layback jamming to a small, sloping ledge w/ fixed anchors. Option 2, easier, more direct, less well protected. This variation goes straight up, avoiding the two traverses. Historically, the route did not go this way because it was harder to protect but with modern small cams (~0.2 Yellow) it is safe. The climbing is thin lay-backing/face climbing. ST rates it 10a but 10d is more like it. The need to hang out and place gear adds some difficulty. After you make it through the crux first 10', you encounter a ramp with a crack in it. Be forewarned, this may be covered in dirt, exasperating when you are desperately trying to plug a unit (~0.5 Purple). Above this point, the two options merge. I will blasphemously recommend option two, skipping the boulder problem, as the more direct, in character with the rest of the climbing, momentum preserving way. Note: Dean Potter caught some grief when he took the piker's variant during his solo of AM, so if you've got hard-ass friends or are in the limelight, you might want to "bear down" and go the hard way. Note 2: Either way, this is a quality pitch. Pitch 3: The 'Enduro' Corner. Totally classic, an endless Indian Creek style, continuous corner which favors those with smaller hands. Starts out with #2.5 Friends and gradually thins. Keep you eye out for the occasional bomber hand-jam and stem rest. Towards the top, the corner thins more (1.5 Friend) and most people go from jamming laybacks to straight lay-backing. This point is probably the crux of the pitch and ends with a thank god sinker hand jam. The last 40' of the pitch are 5.7 chimney in which it is nice to have a #4 Friend or Camalot. Belay at the second set of anchors, on a big ledge. 11c 165'. If you rap from here, you've done 'Astroboy'. P4. One of two "easy" pitches on the climb. Head up and left in an easy, blocky corner system for maybe 20'until you hit an cruiser hand-crack which is followed to a small stance in a flare with bolted anchors. 5.9 80'. P5. Another great one, reminiscent of the Rostrum. Follow a wide hands corner crack for about 1/2 a rope length until encountering a roof; the trick on this pitch in rationing and/or walking your bigger gear through this section. From the roof, reach left to a thin crack system, finagle in some small gear (RPs, purple Alien) then step over to this crack and follow it up ( 10c layback & face climbing, occasional small nut) until you can reach back right where the crack is easier and followed to another bolted anchor ledge beneath the ominous, impending maw of The Slot. 10c, 130'. P6. The Harding Slot. Competitor of the Hollow Flake for THE imagination seizing Valley pitch. Many strong climbers have melted down here. There are a couple of reasons for this: first, it requires a style of climbing that is rarely encountered outside of the Valley and avoided in general and second, most average and large size people don't believe they can fit through the slot. (This is a great pitch to be small on.) At any rate, from the belay crank up on straight forward 10+/11- lay-backing for about 25' until a stance. Place some #1 Friend size gear (BETA ALERT: there is an obvious 1.5 Friend placement here -- don't fill it up w/ gear.) Once you've got bomber gear, make a plan and execute. The next 6 or 7 feet can be both baffling and exhausting. You're working with very thin hands (for only one hand!) in a slick, smooth flare that's not quite a chimney and not quite a corner. ST indicates a "dyno chicken wing" is the secret here; I say nonsense -- that's the sort of inscrutable beta that's likely to leave have you hanging on the rope, thinking about rap anchors. So somehow you've passed the entry move, and you're standing on a small ledge, still able to move your head. You're officially in the slot. Make sure there's nothing on the back of your harness (you should have lengthened your knot at the belay and left your helmet on the ground) and start squirming. They say take an 'S' path but it's not like you could move otherwise. Stay calm and settle for an inch at a time progress. The entire slot itself is about 20-25' long and the really narrow part 10-15'. There is gear to be had in the back of the slot but don't place it unless you have it in for your second; anyhow, it would be pretty hard to fall -- if you slipped, you'd quickly wedge. For those absolutely too large to squeeze through, there is an alternative, lay-backing the outside of slot, supposedly 11 X. (I question the X as I've heard a fairly reliable story of a guy going this way and taking the fall unscathed three times before he finally made it through.) I've belayed a 2nd taking this outside route and it seemed horrendous -- if possible, any members of your party who have to go this way should be following. The Slot is the key to route. Be ready for it which means having someone who can lead 5.10 squeeze and get through the baffling entry moves. Some parties which had been cruising up to that point bail after being stymied by the entry moves. There are some great pitches above the slot and just because one move is giving you fits is no reason not to experience them; if need be, aid a couple moves and press on. 11b, 60'. Note: you probably started the slot in the sun and ended in the shade. Plan accordingly. You're now at the point of no return. The ledge at the end of slot is the last with bolted anchors and the last place you could reasonably retreat from. P7. Hands around a roof (10b), then some 5.9ish hands brings you to a spot where the traditional route goes left at 11b and the pikers var. right at 10c. The 11b way is better (technical face/stem move with good gear) but if your tank is running low, discretion might be the better part of valor. More quality 5.9 cracking takes you to a good ledge where you'll actually have to rig your own belay. 11b/10c 150'. P8. Changing corners. Fantastic. 20 or 30' of easy ground bring you to mantle (11a) which is one of those moves that you can sail through one time only to flail the next time. There is an old, questionable bolt here which can be backed up w/ something like a #0.4 grey; if you're really motivated top rope pro (#2 Rock?) can be had. After the mantle, some more easy ground takes you to the base of the corner, right-facing at this point, which is ascended until things get too hard and you step left around the arete onto slabby face which is followed for a few feet until you start wondering about your last pro, out of sight, below you around the arete. BETA ALERT: reach blindly back right and place something (2 Friend, 1 Camalot?) in the original corner. Eventually you rejoin the corner, now facing left, for a long stretch of finger-locks and stemming (small nuts). (The face passage is sensational but can be avoided by staying in the corner (11d, better gear)). After the corner ends, continue in easier, wider cracks (good to have a 3 Camalot and a 4 Friend) until a stance in the vicinity of a couple of fixed pins. There are several belay options before this point but its good to stretch it to here in order to be able to link the next two pitches. 11b 150'. P9: Blast through a long stretch of 10- which trends right. Then up 50' of 5.9 cups and fists (#3 through #4 Camalot, easy to walk). At the end of this crack, step right and hand traverse right to the left end of a long ledge and set up a belay. This may be a really good pitch, but at this point you're probably too sated to really appreciate it. 10a, 200'. Move the belay to the right end of the ledge. P10. The scary face pitch. Not the best pitch on the route, but as the sting in the tail, essential to the experience. The nature of the rock changes from classic Valley granite to something less desirable. Up an easy corner for about 20'. Then a reachy 10+ move with decent protection including an extruding angle that makes a good foothold (shame); ST gives this section an R but it seemed pretty well protected to me. Up a few easier face moves, taking whatever gear you can get, and establish yourself at the base of a thin, downward pointing flake. You can get ostensibly decent gear at the bottom of the flake (red RP, #0.2 yellow) but the flake is expanding, so this gear probably isn't worth much. If you're lucky, there may be some fixed heads within reach to the left. Whatever the case, sack up, commit to sending and work up the flake (10b) which gradually gets easier but doesn't offer pro for at least 20'; if you blew it in this section, it is possible you'd zipper all the way down to a menacing spike at the start of the difficulties. At any rate, you succeed, place a 1.5 Friend size piece (phew!) and romp up easier ground to a ledgey area. 10d, 100+'. 50' of 4th class up and right leads to the top of the column. Descent: follow a rough trail, north for a short while and then east for much longer, with the occasional class three or four section. This will eventually feed you into slabs which are tediously descended (class two to four, possibly complicated by wet streaks) until you eventually can walk back west towards the column and find the trail to your packs and the bottom. The full descent from the top of the column to the valley floor will take two to three hours and would be quite sketchy in the dark. I don't remember much more about the descent but it would probably be well advised to consult SuperTopo or some other authoritative reference before embarking on it for the first time. Protection 1 ea 2,3,4 RPs 2 ea 1-4 Rocks 1 ea 5-7 Rocks 1 ea purple & blue Alien 2 ea cams from #0.3 blue to #0.5 purple Camalot 3 ea cams from .75 to #2 Camalot 2 ea #3 Camalot 1 ea #4 Friend, #4 Camalot. Water, haul line, headlamp. | 10 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.11c | ★★ Shuttle Craft
A sustained route with fun, bouldery moves. Short and punchy on the far right end of Dilithium crag, just above the anchor. FA: Tom Herbert | 10m | Owens River Gorge | ||
5.11c | ★★★ Crack-a-Go-Go
FA: Harvey Carter & Pete Pederson, 1967 FFA: Pete Livesy & Ron Fawcett, 1974 | 40m | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.11c | ★★★ Aesthetica | 26m, 8 | New River Gorge | ||
YDS_ALT:5.11 PG13 | ★★ Marshall Amp
Great line, starts in the crack on the LHS of stratocaster cave. | 32m, 8 | Red Rock | ||
YDS_ALT:5.11 | ★★ Trashcan Overhang
| Shawangunks | |||
5.11c | ★★ Sangre de Muertos
| Austin | |||
5.11c | ★ Different Strokes
| 18m | Red River Gorge | ||
5.11c | ★★★ Crosley
FA: Andrew Wheatley, Mike Wheatley, Phil Wilkes & Arthur Cammers | 24m, 8 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.11c | ★★ Pickled
| 15m | Red Rock | ||
5.11c | ★★★ Butterballs
| 25m | Yosemite National Park | ||
V3 | ★★ The Wave
| Red Rock | |||
5.11c | ★ Third World Lover
FA: Porter Jarrard & Rob Turan, 1991 | 18m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ||
V3 | ★★ Funky Tut | 3m | Buttermilks | ||
V3 | ★★★ Birthday Direct (hard stand) | 3m | Buttermilks | ||
5.11c | ★★ Fistful of Dollars
| Rifle Mountain Park | |||
5.11c | ★★★ Heating Up the Hood | Mount Charleston | |||
5.11c | ★★★ Running Man | 37m, 11 | Red Rock | ||
5.11c | ★★ Homer Erectus
Start on the left side of the west-facing wall of Diamond Point. Move right at bolt 8 to make it easier. | 26m, 9 | New River Gorge | ||
5.11c | ★★ Dry Spunk
| Maple Canyon | |||
5.11c | ★★ Tony the Tiger | 24m | New River Gorge | ||
V3 | ★★ The Crown
Must do! Great pockets and great big crown at top...hug it! | 7m | Horse Pens 40 | ||
5.11c | ★★★ Bloodshot
deserves more attention than it gets. Three large moves to a pockety traverse out left, then pull up to thin delicate edges to the anchors | 27m | Smith Rock State Park | ||
5.11c | ★★★ Hot Rocks
Climb the tenuous slab past one bolt to some bouldery crack climbing and some glorious vertical hands above. Doesn’t get much better. Take extra #2-4 cams for the top as it’s otherwise very slim pickings for an anchor. | 25m, 1 | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.11c | ★★ Pocket Line
Follow diagonal line of pocketed crack. Tracciata: todd goss | 11 | St. George | ||
5.11c | ★★★ Wristlets
Fun moves on a variety of holds and several cruxes. | 18m, 7 | Foster Falls | ||
B1 | ★★ Right Eliminator | Fort Collins | |||
V3 | ★★ Skip and Sandy
| Rumney | |||
5.11c | ★★★ Basement | 18m | Red Rock | ||
5.11c | ★★★ Pipeline
| Maple Canyon | |||
V3 | ★★★ Sign Of The Cross | 5m | Hueco Tanks | ||
V3 | ★★★ Monkey Hang
The obvious low roof opposite the corridor. | 2m | Tablelands | ||
5.11c | ★★★ Centerfire
FA: Porter Jarrard & Jeff Moll, 1993 | 23m, 8 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.11c | ★ License to Bolt
FFA: Brooke Sandahl & Jeff Ellington, 1987 | 23m, 5 | Smith Rock State Park | ||
5.11c | ★★ Native Son | Red Rock | |||
5.11c | ★ Bottom Feeder
| Rifle Mountain Park | |||
5.11c | ★★ Battle of the Bulge
| 34m | Indian Creek Canyon | ||
YDS_ALT:5.11 | ★★ Roof Burner | Red Wing | |||
V3 | ★★★ Genesis | Horse Pens 40 | |||
5.11c | ★★★ Moondance
Nice face climbing until you reach a small ledge, rest, then up the thin, technical corner. | 30m | Smith Rock State Park | ||
5.11c | ★★ Suicide Squeeze | Red Wing | |||
5.11c | ★★★ Curvaceous | 31m, 15 | Denver | ||
5.11c | ★★ Big Sinkin' Breakdown
FA: Hugh Loeffler, 1998 | 26m, 7 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.11c | ★★ Mid-Life Crisis
FA: Tim Powers & Mike Susko, 2004 | 12m, 4 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.11c | ★ Sally's Alley
FA: Ted Hammond, 1986 | 15m, 9 | Rumney | ||
V3 | ★★ Namedropper | 5m | Hueco Tanks | ||
V3 | ★★★ The Scoop | Rocktown | |||
5.11c | ★★ There Goes The Neighborhood
| 29m | Red River Gorge | ||
5.11c | ★★ Captain Fingers
FA: Nick Yardley, 1987 | 12m, 4 | Rumney | ||
5.11c | ★★★ Japanese Gardens
1
5.11c
2
5.11b
3
5.11a
4
5.11c
| 4 | Index Town Walls | ||
5.11c | ★★ Flakes Of Wrath Direct
| 20m | Potash Road | ||
5.11c | ★★ Maximum Overdrive
| 6 | Summersville Lake | ||
5.11c | ★★ The Big One
A fun route! A crimp ladder leads to a throw for a huge undercling (crux). Push on to the top. | 12m, 3 | Foster Falls | ||
YDS_ALT:5.11 | ★★ The Sicilian
| 15m | Indian Creek Canyon | ||
5.11c | ★★ Mossatopia
| 20m, 5 | Austin | ||
5.11c | ★★★ Pinching Bird Shit
| 11m, 4 | St. George | ||
5.11c | ★★ Black Mamba
| Rumney | |||
YDS_ALT:5.11 | ★★ Wild Works of Fire
| Indian Creek Canyon | |||
5.11c | ★★★ Khaleesi
| 37m, 15 | Lime Kiln Canyon | ||
{AU} YDS:5.11c | ★★ Hammered | 20m | Owens River Gorge | ||
V3 | ★★★ Swingers | 2m | Little Rock City | ||
V3 | ★★ Waves in motion | Atlanta | |||
5.11c | ★★ Poodle Chainsaw Massacre | 14m, 4 | Red Rock | ||
5.11c | ★★ Litmus Test | American Fork Canyon | |||
5.11c | ★★ The Stain
| 20m, 6 | Austin | ||
5.11c | ★★ Sex Dwarfs
Start on King of Ging, finish at top anchor for Jerry's Kids FFA: Steve Languell | 12m | Austin | ||
{AU} YDS:5.11c COM:V | ★★★ West Face
FA: TM Herbert & Royal Robbins, 1967 FFA: Ray Jardine & Bill Price, 1979 | 550m, 20 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.11c | ★★★ Lip Service
| 24m | Red River Gorge | ||
5.11c | ★★★ Brachial Plexus
FA: Dustin Stephens & Art Cammers, 2014 | 24m, 8 | Red River Gorge | ||
V3 | ★★★ Mystery Machine | Little Rock City | |||
5.11c | ★★ Solstice
| 16m, 9 | Maple Canyon | ||
5.11c | ★★★ The Hitchhiker
70m rope only barely makes the ground on stretch. Has halfway loweroffs for ropes shorter than 70m. | 40m, 26 | Maple Canyon | ||
V3 | ★★★ Firestarter
| Rumney | |||
5.11c | ★★★ Voyager
Bolted rap anchors, rap route with 70m rope | 7, 4 | Yosemite National Park |