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Sit down start with hands on hold low down on the corner. Move slightly diagonally left and top out up the arete.

Sit start and climb up arete.

Sit down start up on arete to top out.

Sit start, climb up on sharp grips to top. This is about 2m left of CLEEROY.

Climbs up the low arête from a sit start. Start low on a big flat ledge & smaller crimp slightly higher for the right and top out.

Left sidepull & right on a big edge, up as for MAD COW.

Start sitting 1m left of the small scoop on some slopers for the left & right. Climb up the layback to the left.

Sit down start with right hand in a shallow pocket and left on a sidepull up to a sloper on the right. Top out.

multiple traverses possibilities

Straight up the middle of the scooped wall, top out.

Stand start on a platform with an undercling, top out and don't fall!

Starts just left of the fence on the eastern side of the boulder. Climb up and then traverse left and down again.

Two variations, the right being more protected

Delicate moves on delicate rock down-low, followed by awesome powerful moves through the 45 degree overhang at the top.

See details: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/108135069/hyenas-secret

#SD

Sit-start at the furthest right and lower point of the big diagonal cracks. Work your way up this leftwards to get establish on good holds when the cracks end. From here either dyno to the top or use a poor intermediate crimp and bump up. Top out from there.

Sit-start low to the right of the arete, go up on crimps and big left-hand gaston staying right of arete to the top.

Stand start to COW CORNER.

Start sitting with both hands on a big ledge and top out.

Steep, featured arete. Good value for the length.

This line straddles the black/orange divide, going directly up. A red X4 cam may be useful.

History: old, partially bolted route with no hangers, no anchors, some bolts missing. Originator not located, so additional bolts, hangers and anchors added.

Startup 'Your Body is a Wonderland NK' moving left thru the overlap system. At the slab fork right up the hairline crack. Continue to the roof then rail left to join the original line.

The main event. Harder than it looks.

1. 20m (21) up the flake system right of the Original Route and into the overhanging crack. You'll find gear in here and lay-backing it helps. Climb to the roof and then traverse right using a kick jump move (awesome!) and up to a belay under the roof.

2. 20m (23/24) move left into the roof. A yellow DMM Dragonfly micro cam is useful here. Line is not yet confirmed but there are two options here. Rail far left (harder) with bad feet (may need to campus) or go more direct and go right of the undercling block. Once on the headwall mantle onto a yellowish block (it's solid) and using an undercling standup to clear a blank looking face. Go up the big flake on your left then easy terrain to the top.

Climb up left of large crack.

Start with crack, climb out right and mantle up on flake.

Climb the crack up the center of the wall.

Climb up right.

Video

Climb the arete.

Climb the face to the right of the arête using undercling.

Sit-start with jugs and climb up left on good holds.

Video

Sit-start in the hole with large hold and climb up on edges.

Climb the crack left of L'Arête

Sit-start in the overhang and climb up.

Climb the back sloping face. Depending on which way you go the grade will vary. Not for beginners.

Up the steep blocky arête on the true left bank entrance to gorge. Abseil off slung block.

This climb is at the left end of the crag and starts 4m left of Journey Into Space. It is found by locating the prominent grey-coloured flake/jug some 6m up the wall. Easily up 3m to plant-covered ledge. Move left along this until directly below the previously mentioned flake/jug. (It is worth belaying on this plant ledge to protect leader on the first hard moves). Up with difficulty and pull up overhang to reach the prominent jug. Up this leftwards to horizontal crack. Climb up to a good hold and step rightwards across steep wall (crux). Delicate moves rightwards lead to a fairly dynamic move up and across to obvious hole on wall on right. Strenuous move straight up to easier ground and top. The climb is much harder than it appears from the ground. From the first moves off ledge it is unrelenting until the finishing hard move 15m up. Keep a #7 wire ready for the crux.

The obvious crack below and leading to the large block at the end of the traverse on Eagle’s Nest Crack. Aid from one peg on the traverse into the crack low down.

A line consisting of beautiful moves until the usual Egyptian easy finish. Start up the first bolt of DIY/Ulf Carlsson Memorial Climb, and instead of going right, go straight up, to the small pockets above, up towards the larger/pocket/jug before moving to the crack on the left and exiting the hard climbing.

Gear is thin and thoughtful but there throughout the climb if you look for it. first ascent was headpointed.

Probably Lukenia's best. It makes its way up the left side of the left-hand of the two main overhangs, surmounts this then strings together four or five mind-inspiring moves across the wall above. You can look for difficulties in the first pitch but it is easier to simply take 'The Keep' as far as the first belay. A long pitch follows. Move rightwards to the obvious quartz-hole on 'The Keep', then right a few moves and up past a bolt to easier ground below the left-hand overhang. The remainder of the climb is the crux and includes pulling over the overhang past a bolt on the left, up a move, then traverse 5m rightwards across the steep wall above the overhang. Easily to belay.

On the far right of the wall, a prominent crack rises R of a wide chimney. The route follows the crack to the top. Four men bled into this route on the first ascent. The crack is wide and quite loose. More ascents needed to determine grade.

The obvious square corner on the left of the face has now been climbed free. Not as good as it looks. Hard start up corner leads to very difficult bridging at 9m. A mantleshelf enables easier climbing to be reached 6m below top.

Start below the blunt arete. Climb this and then surmount roof by an area of white rock.

Worth the effort. The pro exists but the final 9m is guaranteed to make the boys shiver in their megas. Take a #0 RP along and save it for after the overhang. Start on left side of cliff beneath obvious flake/crack. Up flake, step left, up slightly then rnantle shelf to good ledge. Move right to orange wall and bolt. Up awkwardly leftwards to ledge below groove. Ignore this and step right to another ledge. The trick is to now reach the steep slab which lies above over the overhang. This is best done by delicately stepping up, then gingerly making a long step leftwards to a srnall sloping ledge on lip of overhang below a thin vertical crack. Climb this (crux) and continue carefully to top.

Where are you now Jet Morgan? (Journey Into Space is a BBC Radio science fiction programme written by BBC producer ...... by Tacconi. The 1957 annual included a short story called Jet Morgan and the Space Castaway, written by Chilton and illustrated by Cornwell). This is a gem of a climb, with great variety of moves and superb positions. At the left end of cliff there is an overhang with a diagonal break through it. The route is directly in front of the driver at the point where the road up to Lukenia meets the road which goes along the base of the cliffs. Start below overhang where there is a flake on the ground. Climb 6m to where a rising crack goes up leftwards through the overhang. Hand-traverse up crack, and pull up through lip of overhang onto steep wall. Delicate traverse rightwards (crux), along ledges on lip of overhang, until easier ground is reached 2m right of peg. Climb wall to top bearing slightly leftwards. Bolt pro after the hand traverse.

A hard mixed route - don't believe the old guide which calls this a "genuine sport climb"! Take some small nuts and cams as well as quickdraws for the three bolts. Start left of the root coming down from Eagle's Nest Crack and climb the crack in the front of the boulder past a bulge to the platform below Epitaph. Move right onto wall and climb direct past three bolts. At the third bolt step left (crux), then continue direct to top.

Climb the unprotected face between Death of Disco and Sweet Fanny Adams for 5 meters on small edges, before getting to a good horizontal rail and pocket which can take gear. Powerful moves left and up across a flake to get established at a broken crack system, and then up the face on easy holds.

Start to the left of the Ulf Carlsson Memorial Plaque, following a curved line of 3 bolts. Get established on small crimps at the start and traverse right with bad feet to the second bolt. Power straight up past the third bolt, then traverse delicately right across a blank face to get established on a pillar. From here join the top section of Pharaoh's Wall and keep an eye out for hornets!

The ultimate finger-tingler! Start 3m right of Bandana, Climb thin crack to obvious "pigeon-hole" at 4m. Move up bulge above on good holds, then two hard moves lead out rightwards across wall and up to easier ground.

A journey to remember! The first pitch is the same as Drowning In The Shallow End, rising easily for 25m to the right-hand and slightly higher nettle tree. Climb 6m to distinct grey ledge. Move up slightly rightwards to bulging dark wall where there is excellent pro in a horizontal slot. Climb holds on right where a tricky move reaches easier ground. Move left to obvious crack and easily up to final overhang and bolt. 1m left of bolt there are holds, so grab the current and use these directly through overhang (crux) to finish.

Dark overhanging crack starting atop boulder. Beware of birds.

Tunnel to cactus to base of low arête. Move up ramp to right, then traverse around arête onto clean face. Great pockets and oodles of protection if you can hang around to place it. Overhanging finish.