Spearhead Boulders, Arrampicata

3C 4A+4B+4C+5A+5B+5C+6A+6B+6C+7A+7B+

Mappa

8 7 6 9 5

5 The Snail 6 The Spearhead 7 Indian Rock 8 Amorph Boulder 9 Footprint Boulder

Indicazioni in Google Maps

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Stagionalità

Descrizione

Ventosa

The most obvious boulder which is shaped like an arrow can be seen from the road while driving towards the mountain. There are several other boulders scattered around this boulder with some good problems and a few easier routes. At present this is the most developed area for sport climbing.

Limitazioni per l'accesso ereditato da Swinburne

The area is on private land shared by the Bald Ibis Hiking Trail. Please contact the owners prior to accessing. They are friendly people and welcome climbers to the property. Please call Ansie on +27 (0) 82 926 1155 to arrange access. Be sure to book before arriving and pay before leaving. A day visitor fee may apply. Avoid bird nesting sites on the main crags.

Avvicinamento

<5 minuti

To get to these boulders walk along the road that heads towards the mountain from the barnyard. The road curves to the left and then hits a hairpin where you can see the Spearhead Boulder ahead of you, charge about 80m uphill to get to this complex of boulders. It is also possible to drive along the road until it levels at the second hairpin and you can see the Spearhead boulder ahead of you, instead of taking the hairpin drive straight along a track right up to the boulder, the road can be quite a challenge, especially in wet weather.

Etica ereditato da Swinburne

Testing was done a few years ago on the different types of bolts and it was found that on slab, vertical or slightly overhanging routes the stainless steel Hilti HSA-KR M10x110mm can be used. Please note that for anchors of multi-pitch routes or steep routes these bolts will not be strong enough. Either the M12x110mm bolt or the Upat UKA3 glue-in capsule with 100mm stainless threaded bolts can be used. Almost all of the other glue's and readily available bolts were tested and not always found to be sufficient. Please take extra care in testing where you place your bolts as there are many hollow sections of rock. Remember that when you bolt a route you do not own the rock, and that many others would also like to climb it, so bolt it for everyone and not only yourself. Some of the routes are still bolted with unrated U-bolts and some dodgy placements can be found, but for the most part all routes are safe. If you would like more information about bolting in this area please contact the Mountain Club of South Africa.