Aiuto

Vie in Grotto Wall

Cerca in:

Filtri via:

Filtri ascensioni:

-

Altri filtri:

  • Vegetazione
  • Condizioni
  • Stile
  • Aspetto
  • Discesa
  • Pendenza
  • Tipo di roccia
  • Meteo
  • Pendenza avvicinamento
  • Accesso dall'acqua
  • Durata avvicinamento
  • Legalità
Ordina per: Modifica in blocco (max 100)

Tutti 35 vie visualizzati.

Grado Via Stile equipaggiamento Popolarità
24 Llareggub Variant

The line, moving L then up at half height. Rap off Llareggub's DRB anchor.

A hold's broken off this, making it more like 24 than 22

Start: Start 2m L of 'Llareggub'.

FA: David Shelton, Tim Day & Erik Lock, 1996

Trad 15m
18 Llareggub

Originally graded 12... things were different back then!

Start: At a little painted "L" about 10m R of the L edge of 'Grotto Wall'.

FA: Dave Neilson & Rod Harris., 1967

Trad 15m
23 Interstitial

Face L of Factoids, with a crux 3rp that is best placed on abseil. I'm going to put a bolt in. Traverse L after crux to finish up crack, rap off Llareggub chains.

FA: Douglas Hockly & Paul Deacon, 2009

Trad 15m
21 Factoids

Climb the wall L of The Flue; either directly (reachy to hidden fingerlock), or by stepping in L from a few metres up Hot August Night (thin and poorly protected). Chains rappel. A bolt appeared at some point but it has now gone.

FA: Robin Miller, Mike Collie & Craig Nottle., 1983

Trad 15m
21 Hot August Night

Up 'Factoids' until rooflet, then step R and up blunt arete (pro a bit iffy). There is also a loose block up high, so don't go pulling it onto your belayer. Rap off as for 'Factoids'.

Start: As for 'Factoids'.

FA: Simon Mentz, Andrew Eastaugh & Louise Shepherd., 1992

Trad 15m
8 Boundary Rider

A hybrid route between Llareggub and The Flue.

  1. 23m As for The Flue – the major chimney left of the grotto. Belay at pre-existing rap station.

  2. 12m Up steepening prow, past left side of roof, to another rap station, as for the easy top of Llareggub that no-one does anymore.

  3. 10m Easily to top of pinnacle for spectacular views. Descend north side of pinnacle into Pan Grove.

FA:

Trad 45m, 3
12 The Flue

The prominent gash at the L end of 'Grotto Wall'.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Garry Sudholz., 1967

Trad 30m
11 Bastress

The arching grey buttress between The Flue and the grotto is an enjoyable easy route.

Start: Below the grey buttress at a tricky run-out slab.

Up the slab (poor pro) to the L edge of the grotto, then continue up the line above.

FA: Rod Harris & Dave Neilson., 1967

Trad 36m
23 Nothing

Pretty contrived.

Start: Just R of 'Bastress'.

  1. 25m (22) Take the seam up L side of orange wall through bulge.

  2. 10m (23) Move L across 'Bastress' to the steep orange wall (actually the R wall of The Flue). The original description mentions to take crack 'n ups... so have fun.

FA: Mike Law-Smith (pitch 1), Mike Law & Steve Howden (pitch 2)., 1982

Trad 25m, 2
27 Body Recession

Climb past 3 bolts (and sometimes a fixed wire) to a lower-off.

Start: Bounding the L end of the grotto is an overhanging orange wall.

FA: Martin Scheel, 1989

Trad mista 15m, 3
14 Heart of Stone

One of the Mount's best waterfalls after an extended period of rain.

Start: Deep in the back of the grotto beside a pile of skeleton bones.

FA: Bruno Zielke & Gordon Talbett, 1969

Trad 27m
20 Toad in the Hole

Climb the slab past 2 bolts to the chains.

Start: The back wall of the grotto is a short slab.

FA: Steve Howden & Mike Law, 1982

Trad mista 12m, 2
21 Twenty-nine at the Quarry

Climb the slab R of TITH, clipping that route's 2nd bolt. Probably best to top-rope it from the chains after leading TITH.

Start: R of 'Toad in the Hole'.

FA: Charlie Creese & Robin Miller, 1985

Trad 12m
19 Catch 22

Up chimney then traverse R (pin) to corner. Up this then move R (crux) to finish.

Start: At the chimney at the R end of the grotto.

FA: Rod Harris & Dave Neilson, 1967

FFA: Nic Taylor., 1976

Trad 15m
18 Catch 22 Variant Finish

Keeps going straight up to access Toad's chains. Would've been done a 100 times before.

FA: Michael Hillan & Paul Badenoch

Trad 12m
23 Catch This

Up Catch 22 intil bolt on R can be clipped. Dive R for the catch, then layback the desperate flake to the arete and finish in the chimney.

Start: As for Catch 22.

FA: Mike Law & Ian Anger, 1982

Trad mista 15m, 1
27 Hot Coq

Up the orange wall past 5 inconspicuous carrots. Apparently, finishing directly past the last one is the most 'enjoyable' way to do the route.

Start: At the R edge of the grotto, 2m R of Catch 22/This.

FA: Nick White, 1992

Sportiva 15m, 5
26 Soft Cock

Position yourself at the base of the coq. slide up and right passing a bolt, then when things start to ease off, jump back on the coq and take it to the top.

Trad mista 17m, 3
20 Aussie Drivers

Head straight up. Maybe move L to rap off Hot Coq's anchor at the top?

Start: 4m R of 'Catch This'

FA: Michael Collie & Michael Totterdell, 1983

Trad 12m
17 Ghostdrivers

Climb Bastress into the giant scoop. Traverse R about 8m till you get to some gear and go up the wall, then L up the arete to the chains of Hot Coq (which are over the edge).

FA: Douglas Hockly & Oz, 2015

Trad 25m
22 Passion

Use pocket to get past the arch and then continue up to bulge (bolt). Pull through this (crux) and then ramble on to the top of the crag.

This is a complete sandbag - much harder than 22 and the bolt is rusted and looks rubbish.

Start: About 8m L of 'Boomer'.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Lincoln Shepherd, 1983

Trad mista 25m, 1
18 A Lusty Sequel

Climb the face L of 'Boomer' to the top of the crag. Wander off L to Pan Grove or 'Celeste' rap station.

Start: Just L of 'Boomer'.

FA: Craig Nottle & Michael Collie, 1983

Trad 45m
15 Valm

Start as for 'Boomer' and head into the gulch. Trash up this to the top.

Start: About 10m R of the grotto is a deep chimney/gully.

FA: Colin Lindorff & Bill van Muirs, 1970

Trad 30m
15 Boomer

An ancient route with complicated FA details... if you want the full story then look in Noddy's guide. Chris and Sue Baxter climbed the wide crack option on pitch 1 on 8/5/1983.

Start: Below the gaping chimney/gully starting halfway up the cliff.

  1. 24m (15) Up to the overlap (peg), where hard moves past this on the left leads to chimney/crack. Best option is to take the wide crack on the right past a bulge, or continue up chimney to ledge on right.

  2. 18m (15) Continue up the steep crack (on the L) to ledge. Belay here, then scramble up and L to get off.

Start: Original description says: "half-way up Boomer's 1st pitch, direct variant leaves gully for the wide crack on R wall." hmmm...

  1. 25m (15) This probably means: climb Boomer's first pitch.

  2. 18m (14) And then finish up 'Squeaker'.

FA: Col Abbott & Jenny McMahon, 1965

FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1983

Trad 42m, 2
23 John and Betty

A popular sport route (but you may wish to take some gear for the finish). Stepping left into Boomer for the first half is quite unavoidable.

Start below the orange wall near the highest point of the arch, and follow the line of fixed hangers.

FA: Kieran Loughran, 1992

Sportiva 23m, 5
21 Amazing Lace Direct Start

Thin and poorly protected climbing leads to the original route. Finish up that.

Start: Just L of the original route.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Steve Moore, 1980

Trad 23m
19 R Amazing Lace

Starts just left of squeaker on thin gear. Tricky left moves into line at about 8m. Go up to John and Betty's rap station.

Start: R of 'John and Betty', and just L of 'Squeaker'.

FA: Steve Moore & Chris Shepherd, 1980

Trad 23m
14 Squeaker

Another early climb. This one is supposedly better than it looks.

Start: About 7m R of 'Boomer'.

  1. 23m (14) Up groove, then bridge scrubby chimney. Belay as for 'Boomer'.

  2. 18m (14) Finish up the RH crack past a few dodgy blocks at the beginning. Descend as for 'Boomer'.

FA: Possibly John Moore & Chris Dewhirst, 1965

Trad 41m, 2
18 Thingummyjig or Something Similar

Up black face to little overhang (crux, small cams) at 3/4 height.

Start: A few metres R of Square

FA: Dennis Kemp & Dave Mudie, 1987

Trad 38m
17 Tich

Up wall, passing roof on the L to big ledge at 30m. Walk off here, or take optional finish up V-chimney.

Start: 5m R of 'Squeaker', below prominent ceiling/nose up higher.

FA: Digby & Alison Gotts, 1971

Trad 40m
19 Rites of Passage

Can be used to access 'Golden Oldies' Wall, if you're into that sort of thing.

Start: 5m R of 'Tich' at foot of slab.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns & Jack Lewis, 1986

Trad 25m
18 Captain Vomit

The LH diagonal.

FA: Craig Nottle & Michael Collie, 1983

Trad 20m
20 Lord of the Ring-Holes

The RH diagonal. After the corner, move R through bulge and up to overhang above.

FA: Craig Nottle & Michael Collie, 1983

Trad 25m
19 Sir Francis Goose

Up groove to bulge. Take the line L of the overhanging nose on massive jugs.

Start: 3m R of LOTRH is a groove.

FA: Craig Nottle & Michael Collie, 1983

Trad 25m
18 Chairman Meow

Climb the wall 2m R of SFG, trending slightly R. Take the line R of bulge.

FA: Craig Nottle & Michael Collie, 1983

Trad 25m

Tutti 35 vie visualizzati.

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文