Vie in Starless Buttress

Up past 'Oh Bondage' there's a tight gully with a slender buttress in it. Obvious but not worthwhile. Probably should be in 'Skyline Walls' section.

Start up orange flake 2m R of major crack then scramble up ledges. Finish through overhang.

A great little face route reminiscent of Blue Mts sandstone. A few intricate gear placements (interspersed by obvious ones) keeps the pulse up along the way.

Start: Left side of Wind Wall.

Bit of a squeeze job that adds a direct finish to 'Not Like a Hurricane' Climb 'Not Like a Hurricane' past horizontal break and mantle onto ledge. Clip the bolt and continue up and slightly right to top.

Start as for 'Oh Bondage' for 5m, step right to a small thread, up past break to ledge, instead of mantling traverse right to jugs and your final gear before blasting straight up to finish.

Carrigans variant. Basically a totally different route to the original. From the good crimps just after the 2nd carrot bolt cut back left diagonally up the wall to wire placements and the last bit of Not Like a Hurricane.

Moorhead had placed the first bolt but not been able to get through the next sequence. He talked Yosemite Stonemaster Mike Graham into rapping the line (which he did blindfolded!) - then he went for it on lead. The last half of the route was established onsight in an amazing effort. Micro crimping past two carrot bolts leads to the mental aspect of the route - which quite arguably is the crux. Big fall potential off virtually half height gear if you lose it at the top grade 23 slab move. Employ a good belayer.

As for RLTW, but when you hit the top break, gear up for a final boulder problem! Heartbreaking, mainly because if you fall off the hard finish (well protected), you have to go back down and re-climb the the real business! Established at grade 27 - you might wonder why it was ever downgraded.

Start: As for RLTW.

(Potentially) unrepeated after 33+ years and with good reason.

Rusty PR, then dodgy and loose but critical undercling block (do NOT put gear behind this), a rusty BR that's too high to clip, then R into 'Windsong' and up to small roof. Then L a bit and over bulge past another BR as for Windsong's new and improved finish.

Start: Start 6m R of RLtW beneath rusty peg.

Arguably 'Arapiles' boldest route. Technically easier than RLTW but as stated within Gordy's 330 of the Best Guide "a 20 metre fall is a distinct possibility". Given that this fall will have you penduluming into the base of 'Los Endos', it's also a lot more serious than the latter. A technical face climb with the main crux well protected, but which stores a nightmare sequence of intricate footwork and a last minute slab rockover just where you don't need it (the last 3 metres). Use extreme caution.

Start: Start as for 'Windsong'.

Start as for Windsong but continue straight up instead of traversing right. Exit the Crux bulge above with small RP's for protection ( difficult to place on lead). The route then rejoins Windsong. Finish as for Breezin and Ride Like The Wind Direct Finish.

Starts off the far right end of the ledge (ample gear options for building a belay). Up to FH, then to flake (sling it), before lurching L to groove and up it, to arrive at a hands free stance. From here there are a few variants, but the best option (as shown in topo) is to head up and left to the fixed hanger, where more difficult moves await.

The original (23) wimped out by following jugs R around arete. The first direct finish (24) increased quality and boldness by moving right but staying just L of the 'Los Endos' arete.

A bold journey through technical terrain and good but spaced gear. Start easily (either up the corner or traverse in from the left) to reach a prominent horizontal break, and follow this to the right. Reachy moves lead to a reinforced flake. You can soon reach left to clip a bolt (on Windsong), before arriving at a stance. From here, avoid the temptation to follow the juggy line right around the arete (you will be punished with mediocre climbing and phenomenal rope drag); instead, establish yourself on the arete and enjoy the crisp edges and outrageous exposure to the top. Double ropes are handy.

R on suss rock, up short crack, R below bulge, then straight up to roof and beyond.

Start: Start at the same spot as LE.

Follow break across Starless to finish up arete.

Start: Start below LE.

The ugly black crack beneath the belay of LE.

Start: Start R of SS.

The short crack leading to the end of LF's initial traverse. Place a wire with a stick before starting.

Start: Start 2m R of LEDS.

An unwitting retrobolt of the first section of GSTQ.

Start: Start as for GSTQ.

Was very bold until the death flake departed and the retrobolts arrived.

Start: Start 4m R of LFDS.

Climb a little tree to gain a jug with a fixed wire. Now head R and over a bulge.

Start: Start 1.5m R of GSTQ.

Climb the shallow groove with a bolt.

Start: Start just L of SaBB.

Start: Start at the major line jagging it\'s way up the buttress.

1. 20m (22) Tough jamming up first groove to gain jugs, then go L to a belay.

2. 20m (22) Tiring jamming leads up L of the major bulge to a roof.

Head up L from the terrace past 2 bolts. Descend by downclimbing the crack to the R.

Start: Start R of SaBB just above the top of 'Dreadnought Gully', at a terrace on the R.

Very bouldery past 2 BRs, then L to flake.

Start: This route is actually located on the top section of 'Preludes Wall', but is included in this section as it is approached from above if done separately (but it's just as easy to approach it by climbing 'Subliminal Cut' on 'Preludes' Wall). Anyway, from the base of Wind Wall, head SW towards the top of 'Reaper Buttress', to find the top of a hanging gully. Scramble down the gully to find the bolts.