Nodi in Far North

PLEASE NOTE: As it stands (as of 20/07/2018) there are multiple route and area descriptions that are incorrect (most glaringly in the less trafficked areas of the Mount). Efforts are being made to fix this, but be aware that any new-routing activity or general climbing in the Far Northern Group should be done with consultation to locals, the existing guidebooks, and/or to The Australian Route Register (more detailed information on some single-pitch climbs: http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page_id=10&action=region&region_id=8).

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, PB Gully Area

On the southern side of the gully, directly opposite PB is a small wall up on a terrace. In middle of wall is obvious crack (allegedly grade 6). Probably best approached through the notch from Nameless Gully.

Thin seam on black streak at left end of wall, using left arete where necessary.

Starts just right of Black Legend at the right-slanting line. This could be the ‘’obvious grade 6 crack’’ mentioned in the Black Legend description. Climb the right-slanting line for a few metres, step left at horizontal break and continue up the centre of the wall.

Climb the unassuming but nice wall between Eddie Mabo and Is The Pope A Catholic.

Line 4 metres right of Grade 6 crack.

Climb the seam up the middle of the clean wall right of Is The Pope A Catholic.

The gully gets quite steep and fragile so the upper section is best accessed from above by abseil from trees (separate rap rope is useful).

Companion route to The Land That Time Forgot. Take some biggish cams. Approach by abseil.

Bridge the deep-set corner a few metres left of The Land That Time Forgot. Exit right and continue up the pleasant easy crack in the headwall. This crack is clearly visible from the Telstra tower.

One of the remotest, most primeval parts of 'Arapiles'. A rewarding adventure. Good climbing too. It's clearly visible from the Telstra tower - the big grey wall across the valley. Approach by abseil.

Skirt clifftop around left (northish) to head of 'PB Gully'. Down gully system to the main wall.

Steeply into right-facing corner which is followed until a terrace appears up on the right. Don't be tempted. Instead, step left and up centre of wall, finishing over central overhang and headwall.

Thin flake at upper end of main section of gully. Hard move right to ledge then easy climbing.

Start as for 'Impasse', traverse 4m R, go up 2m, then traverse back 3m! Now go up via a desperate crux, then up steep wall on brilliant rock and holds. Chain on ledge above topout.

Alternatively, clip the bolt on the direct start, batman up and head R into the crux. Less hassle and still 25.

Originally done with very high side runners to the L of the crux.

Open project past a bolt. A couple of pretty hard moves.

Wandery but good climbing. Start at a pair of horizontal breaks 4 metres right of 'Temporary Imbalance'. Up to second horizontal, traverse R 4m, go up 2m then diagonally right (not straight up the seam) and up the concavity on pockets and blind holds. Diagonally left to finish. Chain on wall above topout.

Start up PB, at the horizontal go diagonally left and through the bulge to join Impasse at horizontals. Using some of the crux holds on Impasse, move up and slightly right on pockets and then move left and up to finish. Chains on ledge above. Probably the best of the 24s/25s in the gully, though Blockade is very good too.

The "R" comes from the scary start of PB, the rest of the route is well protected.

The dominant line on the wall is sustained and has just enough small but good protection on the difficult start - which is the crux.

Rings above this also service Tangent.

Scary up the shallow corner and thin wall to join PB

How hard is this really? Start up PB and continue straight up past two impossible moves.

Nathan Hoette spent 2 days on this. Even Malcolm Matheson didn't onsight it. It's a shame this has one of the most holdless bums at Arapiles in it - the rest is quite nice 22.

Devious line starting as for 'Tangent'. Up through the bulge (crux) past RP's / small wires then R to seam just L of Tangent. Up and L to next break, then R and through roof.

Start up easy grey crack 2 metres right of 'Heavy Horses'. Traverse right then follow short, left-leaning bottomless crack and head diagonally right to arete.

Tangent direct. Reach problem 3 metres right of start of Tangent. Finish direct through the roof as for Angles Up.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Intrepid Gully

Has a few good sections. Takes left arete, starting at little shallow corner on right, then slab to orange crack, to cave, finishing on jugs.

'Cos it's next to "The Verge". Gets into some pretty sick territory. Worth doing if you're in the area.

The second pitch (an exciting roof) can also be climbed as a good second pitch for "The Verge".

1. Start up 'The Verge', but instead of stepping right into the scoop ,go straight up through the thin bulge passing a fixed wire on your left. , keep heading up easy orange face to bulge passing a FH to jugs out right and up to break, From there, power straight up the thin bouldery face and onto easy ground up to a high chain rap anchor.

2. The second pitch starts several meters to the right of the chain anchors, (trad anchor available) below an orange column with a FH. Up this to a white scoop under the roof FH. Up and out left along the pumpy lip traverse passing a FH. then over the lip and up to chain rap anchor. Rappel is 30 + m ! FA Robert Mudie & Muki Woods Alt

Start just up right of The Viragoes. Straight up and through thin crack in bulge, move right into large, guano-stained, V-scoop. Bridge up scoop to roof, past FH, swing left along lip and up short crack.

Somewhat disparaged but takes in some interesting country. The traverse on the first pitch is nice but poorly protected.

1. 30m (10) Diagonally right up the ramp until one can traverse back left to the guano-stained V-scoop on 'The Verge'. Continue left to the nose of the buttress and follow it on jugs to the anchor of The Viragoes.

2. 15m (8) The crack above then up a short, juggy wall to terrace the overhanging arete. There's an ancient , unnecessary bolt.

3. 30m (10) Climb the corner between the overhanging "Hearse Aretes" then chimney to terrace (Check out photos of Hearse Arete at Gardom's Edge, UK to clarify the description).

4. 7m (15) At the back of the terrace are 2 corners [this is about a 10m walk from the top of the P3]. The steep right-hand corner is good fun and quite technical. The one on the left is probably easier but doesn't look as good. This pitch can also be avoided by scrambling right and down and around to the rap anchor at the top of Hum Terrace.

Up diagonal line right until short corner on right of the phallus. Up this behind Phallus exiting around side. Now mount phallus and ejaculate onself through roof. Continue upwards to distinct orange mini-scoop with crack through middle. Don't escape right or left but bridge through roof to belay. Finish up Sweet Surrender's second pitch or do Where's Merilyn?

Start: 3m Right of the Verge.

Start: 4m right of big silver rocket

1. -m (16) up mossy slab moving right to short crack. Up to rib. Climb this to steepness where move left on horizontals to belay ledge.

2. -m (10) Continue up to good horizontal. Traverse 5-6m left on good holds & good pro until you can step up easily. Continue up to good ledge with bolt (Vagabond's belay).

3. -m (17) Step right and continue up the end of 'Sweet Surrender'.

A pretty good route but escapable in parts.

Begin just left of the big tree.

1. 25m (18) Undercling to start then up flakes and cracks to big ledge.

2. 35m (17) Go left into lowest orange scoop. Tackle this on the right and into smaller scoop above, then up past another two bulges.

Because it's thin. Start up 'Sweet Surrender' and move R to below orange wall. Straight up past two bolts then direct up juggy nose above to ledge.

Rigt of Sweet Surrender's first pitch, climb to roof, move right around this and up to 'Vandal' terrace.

Pretty orange wall left of Vandal's main corner.

Go up wall to scoop; left here and up.

Wonderful direct finish to 'Assistance Required'. Originally climbed Sweet Surrender to the second scoop and then moved right and up wall to high central scoop. Many (most?) parties climb Assistance Required into high central scoop. From the scoop, go straight up steep wall past small cam on lovely rock and over bulge.

Used to be vastly undergraded at 14 though older masters of the thrutch maintain that the grade was OK.

The route originally started up the diagonal ramp from 'Vagabond' but noone does that now.

Start in the gully just above the tree, directly below the big orange corner.

1. 15m (13) Pull onto wall and climb groove to large ledge at base of corner.

2. 15m (14) The great corner leads to another ledge.

3. 15m (17) Hard moves into the undercut corner and bridge to the top.

Another inspiring route name.

1. 15m (23) Middle of bulging wall right of Vandal's second pitch and just left of the final bit of 'Swallows and Amazons'.

2. 15m (23) Swing onto smooth left wall of 'Vandal', climbing midway between that climb and Puzzlin' Evidence.

Originally done with two pitches, the rap anchor at the end of the first pitch turns it into a good single pitch climb. It also comes into the shade reasonably early.

Start at flake 5 metres up and right of Vandal. Layback the flake left then climb the right wall of Vandal. Ignore Vandal's first belay and continue steeply up crack in right wall to ledge and bolt anchors 5 metres back. The second pitch went up a little then up the easy arete.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Intrepid Gully

Gear is fiddly, take slings for jugs. You can go L above the roof into a small corner, or just straight up. Start on left arete of gully, right of the start of Vandal. Trend right up face, through bulge, then left and up steep wall.

Start 2 metres right of Angry Penguins, up to small roof, up and right to jug on lip of another rooflet. Straight up.

Going straight up from the first roof is a variant top-roped from chains.

Black and brittle but still good. Take a thin sling for one placement. Start about halfway along the left wall of the gully, about 5 metres right of Angry Penguins. Up vague crack to a good break. Traverse 2 metres left to sickle flake then hard moves up left to jugs.

Wall right of Epic Demic past bolts. Continue up Down And Out or traverse off either way.

A novelty girdle of the right wall with a jump in the tail. Start below the chockstones at the head of the gully. Up right wall to horizontal break and traverse right all the way to Opening and follow that to terrace. Jump the gap and go up to chains (or use Leasehold's chains).

Steep, wide crack on the right wall, deep in the gully. Poor protection without some really big cams.

Dimpled grey wall 1 metre R of Intrepid past 2 bolts.

Protection is just OK and rock is a bit fragile. Up the wall 3 metres right of Intrepid to break. Go over bulge at small, left-curving crack.

Ramp as for Opening then straight up groove to break. Step left and take thin crack through bulge right of Pick And Lose.

Good for a hot day. Seem to remember that it is a bit pushy. Climb ramp 1 metre right of Pick And Lose then traverse right to below shallow overhanging corner just left of arete and up this corner.

Right arete of Intrepid Gully. Now has a new glue-in U-bolt which requires stick-clipping. The Leasehold rap chains are just to your right on top.

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

The slightly overhanging little wall down and R of the entrance to Intrepid Gully has three ring-bolts. It's quite technical but very short so boulderers will probably just highball it at V2!

This wall around right from the Intrepid Gully and below Hum Terrace has not been very popular but it does have some good climbs.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Hum Terrace Area

Start at the left hand end of the wall, about 6-8m R of the entrance to Intrepid Gully. Up wide crack for a few metres then step right and go up steep orange streak. Rap chains.

Rarely climbed. The top pitch is supposed to be hard and poorly protected but from the ground it looks like a piece of easy choss and, in fact, it is an easy piece of choss.

Start right of Leasehold at a low orange roof, 5 metres left of the heavily chalked roof of Fade Out.

1. 15m (25) Desperate 2 moves out first bulge, then funky climbing left out main roof.

2. 15m (12) Easy, mossy choss to Hum Tce.

A good little roof leads to an interesting wall.

A filler roof problem.

Mostly good apart from a section of poor rock after the initial roof. Take L of two desperate handcracks through roof about 4m R of All In Vein. Rock improves up the corner, then direct through the roof and up to ledge at about 25m. Original route wandered off left before roof but DF is much better.

Inital crack of Bhutan then follow FiHP and take DF through roof.

Start up the hand crack 1m R of FIHP... which is also desperate. Then wander across FIHP and keep going L then up and back R via a loose block. This route is pretty worthless and the only bit worth doing is the start as a slightly easier alternative to the start of FIHP.

The major crack-line 5 metres right of All In Vein offers some good climbing but it's currently ruined by a large bush.

This crack is the same one climbed by Intrepid but on the opposite side of the cliff! Thin people may be able to chimney through to Intrepid!

Another quite good climb. The line was originally gained by traversing in from Totally Stoned but should be started direct, as described.

The line at the left end of the ledge, starting up an easy corner that is just right of Anchors Away. Good steep climbing on clean rock. The name is referring to the recent sandbagging activities due to flood and is not related to the grade.

Scramble onto the ledge to start this route, which takes the steep weakness found about halfway along the ledge. Reassure yourself that the numerous rock scars at the start of the route indicate that all the loose rock has been removed by earlier parties. The rock quality soon improves, and the route maintains interest for most of its length.

Filthy. Start 3 m R of Bitterblue, through overhang, step L then veer R up short wall.

Crack and wall right of Fretwork. Not too bad but has a few dirty holds.

Right around the corner from Anchorman's Delight is a large corner system, left of The First Affinity. Start at the base of the crack in this corner. Up crack to roofs and through these. Continue up, stepping to the left of the arete to avoid the worst excesses of the crack. Then up mossy wall.

Start up Humbug, go straight through the excesses of the crack until it eases into the rest below Infinity's corner. Up this, step right off ledge and up steep wall.

It's not 19 and it's not at Frog. Start as for Humbug. Follow roof around right into low angle terrain then up obvious corner to ledge and up wall on left.

Originally the first pitch to Affinity (Hum Terrace) but the two are rarely done as one climb.

Pump-action. Worthwhile. Start as for The First Affinity.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Hum Terrace Area

A girdle traverse of the left side of the wall. Start 5 metres northwardsish of most southerly conifer.

From cave left of Down And Out climb out right and up overhanging wall.

Start from the big chock stone. Left to thin crack then up through roof to steep wall.

A few more repeats might help clear up the route description.

Option 1: From halfway along the Down And Out traverse, go up through bulges on tiny edges (and no gear?), to prominent flake.

Option 2: Traverse a quarter of the Down And Out traverse, then go up via thin seams and decent gear, before spanning a metre left to gain the prominent flake.

Follow the glory jugs to the Down And Out anchor (found tucked around the corner).

Up breaks L of red streak at top of Intrepid Gully.

Nowhere near Kansas City! Quite good but quite reachy and closer to 22 if you're short.

Pull up on jugs behind small tree immediately right of Kansas City DF, over bulge and up.

Start direct if you want but guard against cracked red hold with small cam (green Alien size). Otherwise start up Waddy Mackenzie.

Start 8m R of Kansas City Direct Finish. Boulder the hard start using square pocket and minimal pro, then up to the right of the left-leading diagonal, before following jugs to top.

One very long move on nice rock.

Steep wall on incuts to finish through overhang.

? repeat of Heavy Breathing.

1.5 metres left of Heavy Petting.

Fill in the double-entendres if you're so inclined. Start 3 metres left of Menagerie.

Strenuous for the grade but has great jugs. The Shepherd guide description for Menagerie followed this line but the original Menagerie description clearly places it further right. Start at top of rise behind the largest conifer (?same place as Heavy Petting).

Start right of largest conifer. Short red groove, traverse right then up to left-facing corner. Up corner and exit left.

Direct finish to The Second Affinity. Go straight through roof or left and up.

Absorbing climbing on immaculate rock. Originally the second pitch of a 2-pitch route; the first pitch is now The First Affinity. Start 5 metres down and right of large conifer.

Start as for Hum. Where Hum heads off R step L to slot under overlap. Pull through overlap and straight up with a steep finish.

Straight up to the break with not enough gear.

An enjoyable pitch with an exciting crux. Start 4m R of Affinity.

In fact it's a nearly blank wall. Pass the fixed hanger of High Kicks, and continue past a ringbolt, before getting to the honeycomb featured rock and a lower off.

Start just left of enormous conifer and just right of the rock step down and right from Hum. Technical moves lead to a delicate flake. The old carrot bolt, although poking out attractively, has been replaced. Finish at lower off where the nest of viper like rap slings once lurked ready to strike.

Desperate start. Start 3m R of High Kicks.

Sustained jamming and underclinging with feet cycling on glassy rock. The second pitch is fun in an adventurous way. Start below the right-leading roof-crack right of High Kicks.

1. 15m (20) Take the right-leading crack until it's possible to go left across the wall to cave belay.

2. 25m (18) Head right up steep wall then finish R up short steep corner.

A harder variant on the second pitch of Morning Thunder. The first pitch appears a bit pointless, and the route is best done by starting up Morning Thunder.

1. 15m (-) Start as for Morning Thunder, then go left under roof to cave on left.

2. 20m (24) Go out over roof diagonally right to join Morning Thunder at prominent flake. Continue up Morning Thunder until it traverses right on the second pitch; instead go straight up then hard moves 2 metres left to gain a horizontal edge, then easily upwards.

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

A great climb up the best section of the wall. Best done in one long pitch which will be pumpy to start and run-out to finish. Start at weakness 10m R of Stormalong.

1. 15m (24) Up crack to jug at roof. Arrange wires in horizontal pocket above roof then go boldly left and up to awkward stance. Veer right to flake then up to ledge.

2. 20m (22) Up easily on the left then traverse right above roof and up face to easier ground.