Vie in Mitre Rock del grado selezionato

A quite good top pitch. This old route originally started up The Baptism and then traversed right in a very strange way only a few metres below the major ledge system. Here it's described with a direct start just left of The Nude Balloon Dance, offering a much better climb. The first pitch can be done as an easy climb in it's own right - has some OK moves but is a bit broken.

1. 30m (8) Climb the line 2m left of The Nude Balloon Dance until below the steep orange headwall. Move left and up to the major ledge system.

2. 12m (14) A hard pull into the shallow black corner then traverse right for 2m and move up. Now up and slightly left to finish almost directly above the start of the pitch.

A weird crux on pitch 2 could fool some people. Pitch 1 is very worthwhile however and it's easy to step R a few metres to finish up Revelations pitch 2 or The Bishop pitch 2 if you don't like the look of the roof slot.

1. 25m (11) Start up Serpent then take right-facing corner to overhang. Through overhang and up to ledge.

2. 20m (14) A total one move wonder. Jam/squirm/thrash up the roof crack then up easy chimney.

The major orange corner has a few boisterous moves. Be aware that the first gear is too low to keep you off the boulder if you come off the balancy slab.

Climb wall direct to a prominent sentry-box at top of cliff.

1. 27m (14) Start as for Penny Dreadful but diagonal delicately left and up to small undercling roof. Move up and right into right-facing corner and up to ledge.

2. 15m (5) Juggy wall.

Takes the big wall around right from Leather Bound. So-so. Start up the gulch between Leather Bound and The Great White Hope, moving left to the prominent crackline on the wall around right from Leather Bound. Up crackline, step right through bulge, then finish up corner system on the front shoulder of the buttress.

Below Edgell Gerber is a short crack to gain the ledge.

1. 25m (14) Start up this then from the ledge diagonal right to gain a crack between Iago and Morgul Can't. Up this to ledge.

2. 15m (-) Step across the DA chimney and climb the wall.