Tutti 31 vie visualizzati.
Grado | Via | Stile equipaggiamento | Popolarità | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
22 | Andrew and Ferret's Bogus Journey
From belay chain on "Slinkin Leopard" step left then up through small cave, back right and up. FA: Andrew Lindblade & Ian Anger, 1991 | 12m | |||
18 | Get Your Bloody Fingers Out of My Nostrils
Start as for "Follow Your Nose" then climb straight up from horizontal on jugs to a crux mantle at top. FA: Lionel Clay & Kurt Smith, 1986 | 10m | |||
22 | ★ Follow Your Nose
Very pumpy. Start: Start near the top left end of the wall. FA: Mark Moorhead, Dave Fearnley & Ian Anger, 1982 | 12m, 1 | |||
24 R | Follow Your Nose Direct Start
Harder and bolder than the original. Start: Start 2 metres right of "Follow Your Nose". FA: Geoff Weigand, 1989 | 8m | |||
21 | Dropkick The Fucking Carburettor Down The Pines
Traverse as for "Follow Your Nose" and keep going, past "The Fortress" to a bolt on "Lord Of The Rings". Start: Start as for "Follow Your Nose" FA: James Falla & Paul Hoskins, 1987 | 20m | |||
27 | ★ Mormon Poultry
Two bolts left of fortress lead into FYN DS FA: Simon Weill | ||||
26 | ★★ The Fortress
A few pieces of gear required higher up. Sustained wall leftward past 2 bolts. At jugs, move right and up. (A pumpy variant is to go left instead and finish up Follow Your Nose). Start: Start 6 metres right of "Follow Your Nose". FA: Dave Fearnley & Mark Moorhead via start from left. As described Kim Carrigan, 1982 | 18m, 2 | |||
27 | ★ The Fortress RHV
Start up Fortress to 2nd bolt, then right and up trying very hard to avoid going back L into the original (and better) version. FA: George Fieg (?), 1995 | 12m, 2 | |||
29 | ★★ Kinky Leopard
Start as for Slinkin' Leopard, then head left after the crux "drive by" through punchy boulder (trad) then finish up Fortress. FA: Lee Cossey, 2015 | 20m, 3 | |||
29 | ★★ Gridlock
Straightens out Slinkin'. Start: Start as for Slinkin' but go direct and up to the end of the L-wards traverse FA: Dave Jones, 1998 | 15m, 3 | |||
28 | ★★★ Slinkin' Leopard
Surely one of the best route names in the country. Start 3m R of 'The Fortress'. A slopey traverse R is protected by a bolt (stick clip). Up past two more bolts before heading L to the crack. Up more easily with trad gear and one more bolt to anchors. FA: Geoff Weigand, 1984 | 20m, 4 | |||
26 | ★★ Wackford Squeers
Brilliant route. Take small cams (00 Friend) + some medium cams (.3BD, .5BD, .75BD) for after the 3 bolts on the traverse. Start: Start 4 metres down from "Slinkin Leopard". FA: Lincoln Shepherd, 1983 | 30m, 3 | |||
30 | ★ Chuckles Bolty
The "crazy linkup" of Lord of the Rings into Slinkin' Leopard. FA: Nathan Hoette, 2004 | ||||
20 | ★ Going For The One
The original route on the wall is quite good but rope drag can be a problem. Start: Start at obviuos weakness right of "Wackford Squeers", as for "Lord Of The Rings Direct". FA: Glenn Tempest & Kevin Lindorff, 1977 | 30m | |||
28 | Straight Outta Compton
AKA Straight Outta Wackford. As for Wackford Squeers Direct, then arbitrarily follow the difficult C-shaped sickle to the L in the upper section (rather than the obvious line of least resistance). FA: Geoff Weigand. Carrigan had climbed the lower section on, 1985 | 25m, 3 | |||
26 | ★★ Wackford Squeers Direct
Very hard crux down low after the pocket (which sadly was a chip ?). Use a short draw and/or a good belayer if this is at your limit as you will fall a few times here. Continue straight up on the R side of the top bulge. There is a very good 3/4 cam placement in a key handhold here so perhaps best to carry it with you and place it at your waist after using it. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985 | 20m, 2 | |||
26 | ★★ Bolte Wackford
Soft for the grade and contrived, but the climbing is good. Up Henre Bolte through its crux to the break, traverse L for 2m into the top section of Wackford Squeers and over the top bulge as for that. | 16m, 3 | |||
25 | ★★★ Henry Bolte
Superb thin face-climbing. (#2 Wallnut after the first bolt, .75BD in the break after the 3rd bolt + a few more cams in the higher easier section to DBB) Start: Start just right of "Going For The One" FA: Lincoln Shepherd & Mark Moorhead, 1983 | 30m, 3 | |||
23 | Got It!
Some bouldery moves. There's a good plunge if you miss the final lunge. Start: Start just right of "Henry Bolte" FA: Kim Carrigan, Geoff Weigand & Brian Wright, 1981 | 27m, 2 | |||
17 | ★ Barbed
A good easy route on a great wall deserves a star. Pitch 2 is really good and eats cams. Great on a warm day. Start: Down and right of the other routes is a prominent crack leading to a bottomless chimney.
FA: Peter Watling & Andrew Hebdon, 1981 | 42m, 2 | |||
23 | ★ Gurtle Tier
Line of bolts to a lower-off right of "Barbed". Feel like it climbs a bit contrived by where the bolt placements are, but it's a fun little warm up for the main events up the hill. A cam is good for the top if you scare easily FA: Two Germans., 1996 | 12m, 3 | |||
23 | White on Black
Up for 2 metres then traverse right to pockets and up brushed wall to ledge. Rap as for "Gurtle Tier". Start: Start 3 metres right of "Barbed" at a short, steep flake. FA: Kim Carrigan, Mike Broadbent & Louise Shepherd, 1982 | 12m | |||
24 R - X | ★ Big Bird
Cautiously up the grey pitted face trending R to join School for Scandal. FFA: Christopher Glastonbury & adam demmert, 19 Mar 2021 | 15m | |||
26 | ★ School for Scandal Direct
An unprotected, dynamic crux leads into School for Scandal. FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 19 Mar 2021 | 17m | |||
23 | ★ School for Scandal
Maybe 20m below Barbed and 10m up from the Clown a doglegged thin crack doesn't reach the ground. Up seam in grey slab until desperately thin moves gain crack. Rap anchor. Gear is rather sketchy. | 25m | |||
15 | The Pilgrim's Progress
Start as for School for Scandal but continue up and right to small corner leading into The Clown chimney finish. Rap as for SfS. Pro is a bit fiddly, take small wires and cams. FA: Lou Shepherd, Wendy Eden & Kane Hendy, 10 Dic 2016 | 20m | |||
12 | The CIown
Not great. Well up the gully left of the main buttress, almost to 'Henry Bolte Wall', is a narrow chimney.
FA: Chris Baxter, Chris Dewhirst, John Moore. Pitch 2 variant : Garry Sudholz, Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth.., 1968 | 78m, 3 | |||
18 | ★ Serious Callers Only
Pretty good climbing and protection. Start just right of second pitch of 'Barbed'. Access via abseil anchor of 'Not Invented Here'. Easily up to the big break. Straight up the short overhanging wall, 1 metre right of a left-leading diagonal line, to a good flake. Up 3 metres to top of flake, step right and up water-washed streak to little bulge and up to easier ground. Continue straight up through bulges at top. FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood, Ray Lassman & Norm Booth, 2012 | 28m | |||
19 | ★ Not Invented Here
Might seem a bit contrived to people too short to do the move past the bolt at a reasonable grade. Access via 25 metre rappel from anchor above this climb. Double set cams to #1 Camalot, plus 1 each #2 and #4. Easy up to the ledge-break and up the short overhanging wall 1.5 metres right of 'Serious Callers Only'. Reach straight up the smooth wall past the bolt then right a little and up on killer incuts to left side of the roof of 'Clear Conscience'. Swing right above overhang and go up to rap anchor. FA: Kieran Loughran & Keith Lockwood, 2011 | 25m, 1 | |||
20 | ★ Zero Gravitas
Start at belay anchor for 'Not Invented Here' Up onto the big break and traverse 3 metres right to FH below short, shallow corner. Short jump or hard moves into corner and up to good stance. Up wall (2 FH) to roof then follow seam up steep wall above roof (FH) then final, easier bulge. FA: Kieran Loughran, Louise Shepherd & Norm Booth, 2012 | 25m, 4 | |||
16 | ★ Clear Conscience
"An obvious leftward-curving line starting high up on the buttress, not far right of the all finish of 'Going For The One' ." The Carrigan guide (ad hence the Shepherd one) has it starting 2 metres right of pitch 2 of 'Barbed' but that doesn't fit the description of the start "under a tight, awkward roof". In fact it appears to be the huge roof-flake up high on the right, which is on the left of the final scramble section of 'Beau Geste' etc. Approach from the right under a tight, awkward roof and then follow the diagonal line over some steep walls and overhangs. FA: Glenn Tempest & Kevin Lindorff, 1977 | 20m |
Tutti 31 vie visualizzati.