Aiuto

D Minor Pinnacle Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.

Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

ed Campbell Gome Douglas Hockly Andrew Clark James Gooden Cliff Barnett

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Alcuni contenuti sono stati forniti sotto licenza da: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. D Minor Pinnacle 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:
G
F
M
A
M
G
L
A
S
O
N
D

Stagionalità

Tutti Arrampicata trad

Lat / Long: -36.761236, 141.845178

descrizione

The completely separate pinnacle at the L end of the Organ Pipes.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles,The Organ Pipes Area

limitazioni per l'accesso

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

ereditato da Arapiles

note per la calata

Rap stations atop Cadenza and Aardvark.

etica

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

ereditato da Arapiles
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Aardvark Original Start

The uphill arete of the pinnacle. No gear at the start. Join Aardvark to finish.

FA: Peter Lindorff & Chris George, 1974

FFA: Kevin Lindorff, 1975

22 R Trad 18m
2 Aardvark

Start at the top end of the chasm between the D Minor Pinnacle and the Piccolo Pinnacle, opposite Lemmington. The thin crack over low overlap then R-facing flake to chains.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Ed Neve, 1975

18 Trad 18m
3 Cadenza Direct

Start just R of Aardvark original start. The black groove to the ledge, then the short steep thin crack above.

FA: Ian Speedie & John McLean, 1966

FA: Alec Campbell, 1966

FFA: Dave Jones & Rich Heap, 1996

28 Trad 18m
4 Cadenza

Start at the left-leading diagonal crack. Follow it into the easy chimney on Cadenza Direct and up to the sloping ledge. Traverse 5m right to a tricky exit.

FA: Michael Stone & Ian Speedie, 1965

FFA: Andrew Thomson, 1975

20 Trad 20m
5 The Philosopher

Follow the seams straight up from the start of Cadenza to the break, then finish up Cadenza. Take care as gear is hard to see and place.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & Phillip Stranger, 1968

FFA: Kim Carrigan & Chris Peisker, 1979

24 Trad 18m
6 The Philosopher Direct 25 Trad mista 18m, 1
7 Les Memoires d'un Ane

Thin and glassy. Start 2m R of The Philosopher. Climb past 2 bolts, join The Philosopher, then at first horizontal traverse right to flake (FH) then up to anchor.

FA: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1984

27 Trad mista 18m, 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 Quaver

Start at a flaring chimney towards the foot of the south face. Up the chimney to a rest. Move up and L onto a mossy face and go L past a FH to the brink overlooking the gully. Then up the south wall all the way.

FA: Ian Speedie & John McLean, 1966

14 Trad mista 30m, 1
9 Semi-Quaver

Fairly good climbing culminating in the left arete of D Minor. The strenuous crux past the last bolt is a little contrived though. Start at a short diagonal finger crack 3m right of the Quaver chimney.

  1. 20m (16) Up finger crack to ledge then diagonally left into Quaver. Swing up left onto slab and FH and go straight up thin centre of slab to the first belay of D Minor.

  2. 10m (20) Up arete left of D Minor - clip the first bolt from up L then drop back down and climb the front of the arete direct.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman. 1990s., 1994

20 Trad mista 30m, 2, 3
10 Minuet

Up unprotected face two metres L of D Minor then a short crack to join D Minor.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Peter Allen, 1964

15 X Trad 33m
11 D Minor

Avvertimento Flora e fauna: Skeleton Fork Fern

The major crackline running up the middle of D Minor pinnacle. This climb has excellent protection but has a sad history of death and serious injury from people taking long falls off the top overhang onto the easy-angled middle section of the climb. Please take care to place multi-directional runners on the top overhangs so that lower runners are not pulled out by rope tension during a fall. Can be done in a single pitch taking care with rope management.

  1. (25m, 10) Follow the crack on fine holds until jugs lead up a steepening. Easy angled ground leads to a great belay spot under the overhangs.

  2. (10m, 14) Follow the crack through the overhangs.

FA: Ian Speedie, Mike Stone & Bruce Hocking, 1964

14 Trad 35m, 2
12 Crescendo

Avvertimento Flora e fauna: Skeleton Fork Fern

Essentially the right arete of D Minor. Start 2m R of D Minor. Up thin stepped line. Things ease off from about half-height before an exciting finish up arete.

FA: Tony Dignan & Kevin Lindorff, 1978

17 Trad 35m
13 Cantata

Avvertimento Flora e fauna: Skeleton Fork Fern

Good line up right side of D Minor Pinnacle. Start below bulging crack on arete right of D Minor.

  1. 16m (16) Climb line past bulge.

  2. 14m (18) Traverse right along the big break and take the crack up the middle of the wall. Two bulges at the top provide the excitement.

FA: Ian Speedie, John McLean. Aid reduced by Mike Stone & Keith Lockwood in 1970. Freed : Chris Baxter, 1974

18 Trad 35m, 2
14 Cantata Variant Start

Avvertimento Flora e fauna: Skeleton Fork Fern

The little flake 2 metres right of the bulging crack.

19 Trad 30m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
14 D Minor Trad 35m, 2
Quaver Trad mista 30m, 1
15 X Minuet Trad 33m
17 Crescendo Trad 35m
18 Aardvark Trad 18m
Cantata Trad 35m, 2
19 Cantata Variant Start Trad 30m
20 Cadenza Trad 20m
Semi-Quaver Trad mista 30m, 2, 3
22 R Aardvark Original Start Trad 18m
24 The Philosopher Trad 18m
25 The Philosopher Direct Trad mista 18m, 1
27 Les Memoires d'un Ane Trad mista 18m, 3
28 Cadenza Direct Trad 18m
Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文