Tutti 23 vie visualizzati.
Grado | Via | Stile equipaggiamento | Popolarità | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
14 | Lichenthrope
About 3m right of the far left edge of DR Pinnacle. Move up and right to bulging small overhang. Up and over this then slightly back left across cloud princess like lovely lumps. Straight up to top. FA: Kai Seth Robertson, 15 Mag 2018 | 20m | |||
16 | Retsina
Appealing leftward leaning clean crack, then up to finish just left of 'Rush Hour'. A longer version has been done (and re-named "I'm Lichen It") by finishing left into corner, through bulge and on to summit block. Start: Start 2-3m L of RH. FA: Andy Reynolds, Kieran Loughran (extended version added by John Lattanzio & Greg Pritchard)., 2006 | 12m | |||
15 | ★ Rush Hour
Start beneath the low "col" on the L side of the Pinnacle. Climb straight up the burgundy water streak. FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1989 | 15m | |||
26 | ★★ Redacted 1
Supercedes the old route Action Kid. Varied climbing with four different cruxes. Up 3m L of 'Social Comment' to ledge then continue straight up through a slopey bulge (crux 1) past a bolt. Crimp and slab R (passing underneath another bolt) into 'Birdman Of Alcatraz' (crux 2) then span right onto headwall (crux 3), to stance in crack. Right to 4th bolt and powerfully up (crux 4!). If you don't go right at the top but go straight up to the chains, it's called 'Redacted 2', also 26. FA: Kieran Lawton & Gordon Poultney, 2010 | 30m, 4 | |||
26 | ★★ Redacted 2
As for "Redacted 1", but avoids stepping out right at the finish and goes straight up via a fixed hanger. It features some fantastic (and weird) climbing, such that most people seem to choose this finish rather than the original. | 25m, 4 | |||
24 | Action Kid
This line must climb quite poorly for it not to get any stars - because the wall looks fantastic! Start 3m L of 'Social Comment', 20m R of 'Rush Hour'. Thin crack thru bulge to ledge. Up past BR, go L then back R and join Birdman on ledge. R up groove past BR. FA: Craig Peacock & Lincoln Shepherd (Mike Law added the DS in), 1982 | 40m, 2 | |||
13 | ★ Social Comment
Not many routes this easy get you up a wall like this. Start: Start below a L arching V-crack, 6m L of Birdman.
FA: Roger Murphy & Neil Philips, 1977 | 37m, 2 | |||
24 | ★★ Bent
Thin seam, cross Birdman to join Bad. Undercling L under roof to hanging corner, then L below bulge to finish up crack (BR). Start: Start 2.5m L of Birdman. FA: Mike Law & Brian Fish, 1982 | 25m, 1 | |||
23 | ★★ Bent DF
Avoids the last hard bit of Bent. It's thought that this finish might be where Bad P2 went (before the bolt!). Climb the majority of Bent, until the point where that route steps left across the void; instead, go up the round arete on good edges past a bolt. | 40m, 1 | |||
23 | ★★★ Birdman of Alcatraz
Considered by many to be the best 23 at 'Arapiles'. Start where the dominant flake/line reaches the ground. Follow the line, except at halfway where you need to traverse L for a few metres below the flake before going up to rejoin it. Staying with the flake is reachy 25. FFA: Kevin Lindorff FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth (aid), 1969 | 30m | |||
23 | ★★ Bad
Great first pitch. Pitch 2 seems a bit contrived and is usually not done. Start: Start 1m R of Birdman.
FA: Kim Carrigan, Tony Marian & Greg Child, 1978 | 45m, 2 | |||
18 | ★★★ Death Row
Layback corner then L into the "condemned cell", which takes some escaping! Great moves continue above, trending slightly L. Top anchor is several bits of rope/tat with a mallion. Walk over the top of the pinnacle, with a short down-climb to a rap anchor behind boulder. Start: Start at the L-facing corner at the R end of the main face. FA: Chris Dewhirst & Phillip Stranger, 1967 | 45m | |||
18 | Commuted
Start as for 'Death Row' Climb the initial corner on 'Death Row' and continue straight on up the line instead of stepping left into the condemned cell. Delicate, airy moves over a bulge lead to a corner system capped by a small roof. Bridge spectacularly through the left side, or more easily on the right. Continue up wall right of the arête to the top of the pinnacle. FA: Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 2003 | 45m | |||
10 | ★ Tequila Mockingbird
A ramble up the northern aspect of 'Death Row Pinnacle'. The first pitch was the scramble down from 'Garden Gnome' before the rap anchor went in. Start from a ledge right of Death Row ’s condemned cell and a bit down left from 'Garden Gnome' .
FA: Keith Lockwood & Ray Lassman, 12 Giu 2015 | 40m, 2 | |||
17 | ★★ Garden Gnome
Cute little thing starting 20m up right from 'Death Row'. Crack to ledge, then seam up grey face. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Kim Carrigan, 1979 | 20m | |||
21 | Cloud Piercer
Start 2m R of 'Sky Scraper' , just R of native pine. Groove, step L, straight over bulge. FA: Lindorff & Carrigan, 1979 | 16m | |||
22 | Sky Scraper
Contrived. Start 3m R of 'Garden Gnome'. Steep seam 2m L of 'Cloud Piercer', R at bulge but stay out of 'Cloud Piercer'. FA: Carrigan & Lindorff, 1979 | 18m | |||
14 | Buttons
Directly behind Garden Gnome some 10 metres around the corner. Short steep line to a series of scoops that look like buttons. Rap off Garden Gnome chains. FA: Hywel Rowlands amd Michael Dowling, 8 Giu 2014 | 10m | |||
14 | ★ Black Box
4 metres right of Buttons. Tricky climbing up black stained wall into small sentry box. Out to right side of box and head up arête of pinnacle. FA: Hywel Rowlands & Michael Dowling, 8 Giu 2014 | 25m | |||
14 | Black Box Direct Start
Nicer than the sentry-box start and no harder! Fingery wall midway between Black Box and Howling moving slightly left to join the original climb at about 6m. FA: Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 6 Feb 2016 | ||||
18 | Howling
5 metres right of Black Box. Climb middle of orange wall using little pockets and directly up middle of slabby pinnacle although this is run out (easy escape left of right). FA: Hywel Rowlands & Michael Dowling, 8 Giu 2014 | 25m | |||
8 | Water Wings
5 metres right of Howling. Start as for 'Laurel and Hardy' directly under the rap chains. Thereafter take left leaning crease in rock and the easiest left line to the pinnacle summit. FA: Hywel Rowlands & Josh Bassett, 2014 | 25m | |||
15 | Laurel and Hardy
Slapstick. Straight up the rap route on the back of the Death Row Pinnacle. FA: Bert Levy & Andrew Martin, 1998 | 20m |
Tutti 23 vie visualizzati.