1 - 100 di 180 vie.
Grado | Via | Stile equipaggiamento | Popolarità | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Tiger Wall Seneca Wall | |||||
15 | Bong Tree
When approaching along Flinders Lane from Ali Baba's Cave, start at the first L-facing corner you get to on 'Seneca Wall'. This is directly above the rap anchor down Tiger Wall. P1 (20m, 12) Up the corner, with a low roof on the R. P2 (35m, 15) Up 6m then step L and up ramp to arete, FA: Keith Lockwood, Athol Fraser, Doug Palmen - 1978-04-08 & Doug Palmen, 1978 | 55m | |||
21 R | One Hundred Percent Mabo
Start as for BT. FA: Louise Shepherd, Tim Day (alt) - 1994-02-00 P1 (25m, -) Up BT for 22m then move 3m R to hanging belay. P2 (25m, 21) Up to roof and scarily over it (you're 3m L of 'Time Out' at this point). Committing! | 50m | |||
18 | Time Out
Start as for 'Seneca'. Climb the first pitch of 'Seneca' then continue directly up through roof (with guano), and another bulge further above. FA: Mike Law, Kevin Lindorff - 1977-09-24 | 50m | |||
13 R | Seneca
Has a lot of loose blocks. The topo is vague at the top - pls fix it if you work out where the route goes! Start 7m R of BT. Done in 3 pitches but pitch lengths not supplied. (1) Up until you're under the roof crack. (2) Up then do a loose traverse R into diagonal crack. (3) Up towards roof but go around it on the R. FA: John Moore, Keith Lockwood - 1973-07-15 | 77m | |||
20 | Native Title
2 bolts Walk-off Takes the square-cut L-facing corner through the roofs R of 'Time Out'. Start 3m R of 'Seneca'. FA: Wade Stevens, Tim Day (alt) - 1996-06-09 P1 (30m, 19, 1 bolts) Straight up the sickle-shaped crack to a jug below the bulge. Unlikely moves through the bulge (BR) to belay on Seneca's loose traverse. P2 (20m, 20, 1 bolts) Directly up to the square cut corner (BR), through this then R to the arete and up. | 50m | |||
17 | Shock Treatment
Start at the far R edge of 'Seneca' wall. Topo is vague at the top - pls fix if you know where it finishes. FA: Mike Law, Mike Stone - 1977-10-00 P1 (25m, 17) Up corner, around a crack in a bulge, then L to a belay. P2 (25m, 17) Up the line and through the roof via a scoop. | 50m | |||
11 | The Lost Chord
This is a good pitch to go to the top of the cliff after Phoenix or 'The Eighth'. Start: Start at the top of 'The Eighth', at far R end of Flinders Lane. FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran (alt) & Felicity Rousseaux, 1993 | 30m | |||
Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | |||||
9 | ★ Eagle Cleft Variant
| 120m | |||
11 | ★ Eagle Cleft
1
2
30m
2
11
30m
3
10
30m
4
10
28m
Start: Start under the big chasm which separates 'Bard Buttress' and 'Tiger Wall'.
Monster chasm FA: Mike Stone & Ian Speedie, 1964 | 120m, 4 | |||
19 | ★ Pacemaker
FA: Geoff, amp; Maureen Little & Pat Ford, Giu 2017 | 110m, 4, 3 | |||
12 | ★ Hawk
1
10
46m
2
12
25m
3
12
30m
4
25m
Start: Start as for The Bard (which is described on the 'Bard Buttress' page).
FA: John Bennett & Greg Martin (alt), 1964 | 130m, 4 | |||
10 | ★ Hawk Variant Finish Pitch 4
Pitch 4 Variant: At the belay do not move right into the chimney. Instead step left for about 2-3m then follow an obvious line trending slightly left for a full 50m pitch. This is an obvious line that is quite prominent as a crack line on the cover of Louise Shepherd's guide book to 'Arapiles' FA: Mark Witham & Deb Churches, 2000 | 120m | |||
14 | ★ New Tricks
Spectacular climbing on the 'Swansong' wall. Steps left from a roof above the 'Hawk' traverse, then finishes up a hanging corner high on the right-hand tower.
FA: Geoff Little, Keith Lockwood & Maureen Little, 24 Lug 2015 | 110m | |||
14 | Swansong
Start: Start as for 'Eagle Cleft'
FA: Keith Lockwood & Chris Baxter, 1974 | 120m, 5 | |||
15 | Twilight Zone
A monster girdle. Why would you bother. Start: Start as for EC. Marvelous if you love 300m of downclimbing.
FA: Chris Baxter & Daryl Carr, 1968 | 300m, 10 | |||
23 | ★★ Fall Out
Double ropes are mandatory as pitch 1 takes a devious wandering line through some daunting territory. Also note that pitch 1 can be climbed in isolation as there is a rap anchor just right of the first belay. Start: Start just R of 'Eagle Cleft', at the top of the easy initial slabs.
FA: Kim Carrigan, Kevin Lindorff (although p4 was previously done by Mike Law & Glenn Tempest), 1978 | 97m, 4 | |||
24 | Fall Out Direct
A straighter version of pitch 1 but you'll probably still want double ropes. Start: Start as for 'Fall Out'. FA: Louise Shepherd & Robin Miller, 1983 | 25m | |||
24 | ★★ Let's Face It
Pitch 1 of this route can be climbed in isolation as there is a rap anchor at the first belay. Start: Start as for 'Fall Out'.
FA: p4: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd FA: p2: Chris Shepherd & Rod Young FA: p1: Chris Shepherd & Lincoln Shepherd, 1981 | 100m, 4 | |||
20 | The Long, the Short and the Tall
Another worthless traverse. Start: Start as for 'Eagle Cleft'. FA: Mike Law, Mike Stone & Chris Baxter, 1977 | 140m | |||
25 | ★ Brainstormer
wonderful little companion route to Barnstormer. Breaches the roofline 1 ½ metres left of Barnstormer, past a bolt, some trad gear then a second bolt, before tending rightward for the last two body-lengths to Barnstormer’s anchors. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Malcolm Matheson, Giu 2016 | 15m, 2 | |||
24 | ★ Barnstormer
Start: Start between LFI and FoaHTR.
FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1978 | 60m, 2 | |||
27 | ★ Fox on a Hot Thin Roof
A very technical ceiling. Take a #4 Friend for the wide slot at the end. The prominent roof crack left of The Good... Scramble up to belay just below roof. Undercling left past two fixed wires to the wide slot. Back aid to descend (no in-situ anchor). FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter & Peter Watson, 1977 FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1979 | 25m | |||
20 | ★ The Good, The Bad and The Ugly Left Hand Start
A better way to get to the crux at the top of the first pitch. Start: Start 2m L of 'The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly'. Up the easy slab then a thin crack (this bit goes at 18). Join the original first pitch for it's final cruxy corner FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1992 | 30m | |||
20 | ★★ The Good, the Bad and the Ugly
1
20
35m
2
20
15m
3
50m
Pitch 1 has seen a few very serious falls, but the protection is quite ok if you take care to eliminate directional forces on the crux pro. If you don't know how to do this, then this route might deserve a "serious" rating. Start: About 25m R of 'Eagle Cleft' there is the first significant weakness in the big roof. Start under this.
FA: John Moore, Chris Dewhirst, Peter Cohn & Fred Langenhorst, 1968 | 100m, 3 | |||
The Good, The Bad and The Ugly Right Hand Finish
This looks to be the original finish to the route and not a FA. Go up R from the second belay to a bird eyrie, then steeply through a niche to reach the face of a narrow buttress. Start: Start at the 2nd belay of 'The Good, The Bad and The Ugly' FA: Wade Stevens & Tim Day, 1996 | 50m | ||||
26 | ★ Into the Black
The steep bits look like a hoot, shame about the rest. Previously said to be a 30m route which was certainly wrong. The total height to Flinders Lane is 100m. The difficult section finishes after about 50m. Start: Start as for TGTBaTU.
FA: Mark Moorhead & Roddy McKenzie, 1980 | 30m, 2 | |||
24 | ★ Out of the Blue
Start: Start 8m L of 'Marbuck'.
FA: Rod Young & Mark Moorhead (alt), 1980 | 70m, 3 | |||
18 | ★ Blue Diamond
Start as for Out of the Blue but go right around the roof rather than through it, then back left to rap station. Apparently thin on gear. FFA: Glenn Tempest & Karen Tempest, Mag 2015 | 32m | |||
24 R | ★★ Marbuck Variant
This fantastic route should be far more popular now that rap anchors have been added to eliminate the crappy third pitch and long walk off. If you like your ankles unbroken and just want to do the awesome second pitch, you can skip the bold start by doing any of the pitches on either side. Start: Start 2m L of 'Marbuck', immediately below the main line followed by 'Marbuck' pitch 1.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Simon Parsons (Chris Peisker had previously done the independent bit at the start around), 1977 | 70m, 3 | |||
24 | ★ Marbuck
A very very big roof, which will hopefully see more action since the addition of a rap anchor which eliminates the manky 3rd pitch and long descent. Start: About 10m R of TGTBaTU is the next major crackline up to and through the roofs. It fizzles down to a seam near the ground: start 2m R of this seam.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Murray Taylor (aided), 1968 | 73m, 3 | |||
26 | ★ The Last Emperor
Starts a pitch up and climbs wall between Marbuck and You Can't Stop the Gobble - see topo. Belay on ledge Up the orange wall and through the bulge (crux) then left across the steep wall R of Marbuck. Rap as for Marbuck. Two bolts. FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2015 | 32m, 2, 2 | |||
23 | Kick Start
Thin crack, move R under roof, then pull through roof. Up wall to ledges and traverse R along these to the 'No Future' rap anchor. Start: Start 1.5m R of' 'Marbuck'. FA: Mike Law, 1982 | 30m | |||
15 | ★★ Kaiser
1
15
38m
2
15
15m
3
30m
4
25m
The first 2 pitches are great but the rest is ordinary. Start: Start at the next strong crack line about 10m R of 'Marbuck'.
FA: Chris Dewhirst & John Moore, 1966 | 110m, 4 | |||
18 | ★ Kaiser LHF
The brittle flake on the L wall of the chimney/gully of 'Kaiser' p4. Start: Start at Kaiser's third belay. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Phillip Armstrong, 1978 | 25m | |||
15 | ★★★ Kaiser - Resignation
Classic. Start up first two pitches of Kaiser, finish up top two pitches of Resignation (15,13, 15,12). | 99m, 4 | |||
14 | ★ Resignation-Kaiser
The "Other" linkup of Kaiser and Resignation. Climb the first two pitches of Resignation to belay just above the horns. Take the fun traverse L to finish up the last two pitches of Kaiser. | 110m, 4 | |||
18 | ★★ Kaiser Resignation Direct
In p1 of Kaiser, go direct up the crack instead of traversing left and dog-legging right. | 90m, 4 | |||
22 | ★★ You Can't Stop the Gobble
Start: Start as for 'Kaiser'.
FA: p2 Kevin Lindorff & Phillip Armstrong, 1978 FA: p3 Roddy McKenzie, Craig Nottle & Graham Sanders, 1981 FA: p1 Louise Shepherd & Julia Butler, 1989 | 71m, 3 | |||
21 | ★★ No Future
An eye catching and intimidating route. Quite a committing lead, but with good gear available if you have the skill. NB the tombstone block has now been made relatively safe (pinned). Start: Start 2m R of K. FA: Kim Carrigan, Geoff Little & Eddy Ozols, 1978 | 30m | |||
22 | ★★ No Future Direct
Up 'No Future' to the bulge then, instead of traversing R, continue straight up to a (new) bolt (as of late May 2015). Pull the bulge and step R to finish up the line. FA: Louise Shepherd, Tim Day & Nick Neagle, 1991 | 30m, 1 | |||
26 | ★★ Vanya Going Underground
Fantastic climbing and very, very tough. The route was done with a fixed wire to protect the start - the wire is no longer there so you may want to place it on rap. Up the thin seam on the orange streak, L and up flake, head R then back L and over roof. Start: Start 6m R of NF. FA: Lincoln Shepherd, 1984 | 25m | |||
22 | ★ Eat More Meat
Shallow groove to thin crack, then L to next crack and up it. Start: Start 2m R of VGU. FA: Eddy Ozols, Mark Moorhead & Rod Young, 1980 | 30m | |||
16 | ★ Resignation Left Hand Start
Up the shallow L facing corner for 10m and rejoin the original. Slightly fiddly gear. Start: Start just L of R. FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1977 | 35m | |||
15 | ★★★ Resignation
1
10
35m
2
15
15m
3
15
23m
4
11
23m
A well loved classic, but it deteriorates towards the top. Start: Start 3m R of EMM (12m R of K).
FA: Daryl Carr, Jerry Grandage & Ann Pauligk, 1966 | 96m, 4 | |||
16 | ★★★ Resignation Direct
The direct line up P2 of Resignation and into the bulge of P3. P1: As for Resignation. P2: Instead of heading left to the weakness, continue straight up on orange rock to reach the bottom of the bulge on P3 of Resignation. Continue to Resignation's belay. P3: Follow P4 of Resignation. | 90m, 3 | |||
15 | ★★ Resignation RHV
Start at the 1st belay of 'Resignation'.
FA: Pitch 2 RHV Glenn Tempest & John Chapman, 1976 | 70m, 2 | |||
23 | ★★ Tough Titties
Trend rightwards into the hanging groove via a hard boulder problem (wires then bolt). Further technical moves (2 more bolts plus small cam) lead to easier ground and lower-off. Start: Start just right of 'Resignation' 1st pitch. FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2004 | 20m, 3 | |||
22 | ★ Rubber Neeples
Start right of Tough Titties below a rooflet / blob sticking out at about 6m with a bolt below it. Up to the blob and past it then up and left to chains. Nice rock. FA: Douglas Hockly & Duncan McGregor, 2012 | 18m, 1 | |||
21 | Harrier LHS
A variant start to 'Harrier'.from the left. FA: Mark Moorhead, Craig Nottle & Roddy Mackenzie, 1983 | ||||
20 | Harrier
The roof is cool. Said to be 100m, which looks right, but the pitch lengths don't add up so you'll have to make do. Start: Start 5m L of 'Underneath the Colours'.
FA: Kevin Lindorff later added the roof. FA: Keith Lockwood, Ed Neve (aided the start & veered around the roof), 1973 | 100m, 3 | |||
21 | Harrier Direct Start
Start 3 metre right of 'Harrier'. Head diagonally left up smooth orange wall to join 'Harrier' at the bulge. FA: Kim Carrigan & Lincoln Shepherd, 1979 | 18m | |||
26 R | ★★ Is Vanya a Dog?
A very technical and super reach dependent face route which is a tad bold to start. Used to be a very sandbagged 24 for many years. Solid for the current grade! FA: Lincoln Shepherd, 1983 FFA: 1983 | 18m, 1 | |||
25 | ★★ Bienenstich
A classic Arapiles baby bum face route. Originally given 24 but since upgraded (rightly so) in line with Vanja's upgrade. Quite sustained and powerful. FA: Ingvar Lidman FFA: 2004 | 20m, 2 | |||
20 | ★★ Antiques Road Show
Just right of Bienenstich, slab moves up past a bolt to a crackline. Up this then L to the depression above Bienenstich. Up to second bolt and up glorious white wall on good holds to double ring bolt anchor. The first section is probably a repeat of 'Underneath the Colours', but the top wall is new and very worthwhile. Maybe Underneath the Colours and Antiques Road Show should have their grades aligned seeing as they share a crux move at the first bolt. You can also start up Ab Fab and traverse in above the first bolt for a great 18. FA: Geoff Little, 2015 | 25m, 2 | |||
21 | ★ Underneath the Colours
Great climbing in the first 25m - the rest is a bit dirty and easy, but OK climbing, and can be avoided by stepping back L to the DRB of Antiques Road Show. Start 8m L of Skylark. Up and a little L to a FH at 12m as for Antiques Road Show, then move up and R through the bulge about 4m R of the 2nd FH of Antiques Road Show. Continue straight up for 10m then step L to DRB unless you like the look of the very dirty 20m of moss above. To avoid confusion - there are not 3 routes on this bit of wall. AR is a retro of the first 15m of this climb then Ab Fab comes in from the right and finishes up this climb to the Kestrel ledge. FA: Doug Fife & Phil Steane, 1982 | 55m, 1 | |||
16 | ★★ Absolutely Fabulous
1
16
2
16
Great first pitch up face left of Skylark. Second pitch is a bit scrappy until a good finishing headwall.
FA: Geoff Little, Maureen Little & Keith Lockwood, 2015 | 88m, 2 | |||
20 | ★ Renovation Nation
More direct second pitch to Ab Fab FA: Bec Hopkins & Simon Mentz, 13 Giu 2016 | 20m, 4 | |||
16 | ★★ Skylark
This good climb starting up the left arete of 'Kestrel' is probably best done with a long first pitch. A lot of parties take advantage of the rap anchor and skip the second pitch or do 'Kestrel Direct Finish'. However the second pitch has some good climbing, especially on the crux overhang low down. Noddy graded the top section 12 back in the day but is now unable to identify where it went. They may have gone much further right or maybe just a sandbag. Now has a lower-off on top pitch to avoid bushes and loose rock on exit - 60m rope mandatory.
FA: Matt Taylor, Keith Lockwood & Nick Andronis, 1975 | 85m, 2 | |||
18 | ★★ Skylark Direct Finish
Straight up above the Kestrel rap station. Move left and mantle the ledge (crux). Straight up from there, sneak right under the roof and continue up mildly overhanging rock to Flinders Lane. FA: Peter Holmes & Meg Holmes, 1996 | 38m | |||
19 | ★★ Grand Design
The left wall of Kestrel. Scramble up the first 3 metres to the alcove. Small corner then past bolt to seam and follow this for 18m to join arete, eventually meeting Skylark for the final few metres FA: Glenn Tempest & Karen Tempest, Lug 2015 | 54m, 1 | |||
13 | ★★ Kestrel
A very long, sustained, bridging classic that requires a three-dimensional approach. The polished corner facing north (morning shade). If you have only a 50m rope belay in the alcove 3m off the ground to make sure you don't run out of rope. There is a rap station on the L when you get to the ledge (50m). Be careful of the large loose block at the belay. It seems well keyed in but treat with caution. Use similar caution with a few other blocks envcountered during the pitch. If you only have a single rope, you can do two abseils (2x30m) from the DRB to the left atop Antiques Roadshow. Please don't use the old exit left up the gully to Flinders Lane as it acts as a funnel for rocks onto the climbs below. Consider Kestrel Alternate Finish as an easy way to get to Flinders Lane. FA: Doug Hatt & Ian Guild, 1964 | 50m | |||
8 | ★★★ Kestrel Alternate Finish
An easy pitch for parties wanting to get from Kestrel to Flinders Lane without an increase in grade. From the belay at the top of the first pitch, step right and climb up right a couple of metres to a ledge system. Walk right across the mossy ledge system to the corner on the final pitch of Yo Yo and follow this to Flinders Lane. Make sure to place a good directional runner after the traverse. | 42m | |||
15 | ★ Flying Moose
Up the starting ramp as for Kestrel, step right up a few easy blocks the then left up left leaning shallow corner. Head directly up through shallow overlaps and towards the top keep 3 metres left of Pfeffernusse before a final reach right to the rap chains beneath large overlap. FA: Hywel Rowlands & Ross Ellingwood, Mar 2018 | 23m | |||
19 | Subsonic moose
After the rooflet on Supersonic Moose, continue straight into Kestral. It's the obvious thing to do. FA: Wendy Eden & Louise Shapherd, 15 Set 2018 | ||||
19 | Supersonic Moose
As Flying Moose except keep left at top and gain crack in overlap 3 metres right of Kestrel. A trad anchor can be built here. Up through crack and gain rising right traverse to easy stance then up the left facing corner of Surfacing before avoiding the boulders above by stepping left into Kestrel for the final 8 metres or so to the Kestrel rap chains. FA: Hywel Rowlands & Jo Lee, 28 Mar 2018 | 55m | |||
15 | Pfeffernusse Variant Start
Avoiding the crux of Pfeffernusse through starting as for Flying Moose and continue up a few easy block to beneath the slabby section, then finish as for Pfeffernusse. FA: Hywel Rowlands & Paul Graham, Mar 2018 | 23m | |||
19 | ★ Pfeffernusse
Start 5 metres right of the Kestrel ramp beneath a bolt. Climb directly up past bolt and wall above to a more slabby section veering left to easy stance and shallow corner. Directly up to rap chains. FA: Hywel Rowlands & Ross Ellingwood, Mar 2018 | 23m, 1 | |||
19 | ★ Velvet Green
A good single pitch to a rap anchor or an approach to the pitches above, The first climb in the area, it was filthy, the exact start wasn't clear and it had a weak second pitch. Now the first pitch is cleaned and re-instated and we'll just forget about pitch 2. Start between Kestrel and Yo Yo. Up past BR towards little overlap then up into shallow corner on it's left side. Up line to major overlap at 25m, moving right below this to rap anchors. FA: Rod Young & Chris Shepherd, 1980 | 25m | |||
20 | ★ Surfacing
Good climb up the faces between 'Kestrel' and 'Yo Yo' all the way to Flinders Lane. Start midway between these two routes, as for Velvet Green.
FA: Kieran Loughran & Robert Mudie, 26 Gen 2017 | 88m, 2, 4 | |||
21 | ★★ The Prime Of Life
The central line up the wall has a lot of good climbing. Can be done as one long pitch. The bolt tally is for the top pitch.
FA: Glenn Tempest & Kieran Loughran, 5 Ago 2017 | 55m, 2, 5 | |||
22 | ★ Diving Deep
Good climbing on the top pitch which may be little easier with addition of a bolt. Start as for Velvet Green and Mother Brown, midway between Yo Yo and Kestrel,
FA: Kieran Loughran & Louise Shepherd, 1988 | 60m, 2, 3 | |||
20 | ★ Mother Brown
Three bolts, two bulges and a slab. The middle bulge was climbed many years ago utilising a very dodgy big block (long gone). Up the initial moves on Velvet Green (bolt), to step slightly R to surmount the little bulge. Pull through the second larger bulge (bolt) and continue on up to a third bolt. Tiptoe up the final moves to the bolt anchors (as for Velvet Green). FA: Glenn Tempest, Karen Tempest & Roxanne Wells, 4 Ago 2017 | 25m, 3 | |||
21 | Ducks on the Pond
Climb the corner crack of 'Yo Yo' then continue directly up (rather than traversing R to the guano). Follow incipient crack directly up lichenous country to belay on ledge 2-3m L of Yo Yo's 3rd belay. Start: Start at the 1st belay of 'Yo Yo'. FA: Tim Day & Phil Robertson, 1997 | 30m | |||
16 | ★★ Yo Yo
The major left-facing corner facing 'Kestrel' is another well-trodden favourite. The second and third pitches can be fairly easily combined, especially if double ropes are used.
FA: Mike Stone & Ian Speedie, 1965 | 90m, 4 | |||
18 | ★★ Yo Yo Variant Finish
1
30m
2
24m
3
15
40m
4
18
12m
5
14m
This finish to the top of the cliff is a bit unbalanced but probably worthwhile. Maybe do it in conjunction with the grade 18 third pitch variant.
FA: Daryl Carr & Chris Baxter, 1968 | 120m, 5 | |||
23 | ★ Nakablitz
Quite an attractive climb up the steep narrow buttress right of 'Yo Yo'. Start: Start as for 'Falcon'.
FA: Mike Law & Mark Colyvan, 1983 | 57m, 2, 2 | |||
18 | ★★ Falcon
A good climb and a nice 1 pitch option in this area. Start: Start right of 'Yo Yo' - the big gully.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Norman Booth, 1973 | 30m, 2 | |||
20 | ★★ They Eat Pigeons Don't They
A good line up the front of the buttress R of Falcon. Up the slippery crack (some find this the crux) to Falcon's ledge at about 8m. Step off this diagonally R past a bolt (shorter folks might find this the crux) then drift back L to a small corner and up slightly R to a juggy finish. Falcon's chains are just around the corner. Start: Start at thin crack up the front of the buttress, 6m left of Phoenix. FA: Peter Martin & Louise Shepherd, 1988 | 30m, 1 | |||
23 | Problem Child
The left arete of Phoenix has a hard boulder problem low down amongst a lot of easier climbing. FA: Kim Carrigan & Chris Shepherd, 1979 | 50m | |||
13 | Pegasus
Another combination route. OK at the grade if you're in the area. Start up 'Phoenix' until past the bulge on the arete to the left and then follow the arete ('Problem Child') to the top of the buttress. Abseil down 'Nakablitz' (40m). | 48m | |||
11 | ★★ Phoenix
Takes the lovely right-facing corner on the righthand-side of 'Central Buttress' before joining 'The Eighth' on the final two pitches. Take a few long slings for thread runners.
FA: Bruce Hocking & Ian Speedie, 1964 | 98m, 3 | |||
9 | ★★ The Eighth
1
8
24m
2
9
25m
3
9
30m
4
8
20m
FA: Steve Craddock, Bob Craddock & Robyn Lewis (via a harder pitch 2 variant), 1963 | 99m, 4 | |||
8 | The Eighth Direct Finish
A way to the top of the cliff. Unfortunately it breaks down very quickly into an unpleasant gully. 20m (8) From the right end of Flinders Lane, climb a juggy corner into a chimney. Belay on second ledge. 45m (4) Up the chimney-gully. FA: Greg Lovejoy & Bob Craddock, 1964 | 60m, 2 | |||
19 | ★ Straight Eight
Quite pleasant climbing. Start: Start 4 metres right of 'The Eighth' at nice seams.
FA: Unknown, 2000 | 42m, 2 | |||
11 | ★ The Eighth Direct
FA: John McLean & Richard Schmidt.., 1966 | 96m, 3 | |||
21 | ★ Great Working Dog Stories
Two good pitches. The easy top of pitch one can be a bit dirty. Start: Start 3 metres right of 'The Eighth Direct'.
FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1992 | 40m, 2, 2 | |||
16 | ★ Monkey's Paw
Nice long pitch with multiple tricky sections Climb orange crack 4 metres left of 'Syrinx', just right of GWDS. When it stops, step left to the next orange crack. Up easy ground to small orange R facing corner, step left and through overlaps 2 metres left of "interesting move" on 'Syrinx'. Up to 2nd belay on Syninx. Continue up that or roped traverse across to abseil on 'Nakablitz'. FA: Recorded: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1992 | 42m | |||
15 | Monkey Poo
Goes quite a way up 'Syrinx' and then breaks out left and probably hits the 'Yo Yo' Variant finish at some point.
FA: Steve Hanson & Andrew Topolcsanyi (alt), 1994 | 140m, 4 | |||
Tiger Wall Syrinx Area | |||||
10 | ★★★ Syrinx
1
10
20m
2
10
20m
3
10
35m
4
8
38m
5
9
12m
6
8
25m
7
7
20m
The first three pitches in particular offer superb climbing at the grade, while the final pitches provide an opportunity to explore those high balconies dominating the upper reaches of the cliff. The first two pitches are often combined. While the first part of the climb only spends a small amount of time in the chimney, some parties have mistakenly climbed the chimney in its entirety. This is not a club that you should aspire to join. Despite its enjoyable nature, there have been a number of serious injuries and a death on this climb. Here the start of the fourth pitch has been revised to reduce the danger of a long fall to the belay ledge.
FA: Bruce Hocking & Mike Stone, 1964 | 170m, 7 | |||
25 | Penelope Pitstop
Positional Climb the wall and steep arete to the left of Boy Racer. FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2010 | 25m, 2 | |||
22 | ★★★ Boy Racer
A fabulous route that is one of the harder 22s about. From 3rd Belay of Syrinx, head up to the hand traverse leading left to overhanging corner. Up this to reachy step left around roof then meander to top. FA: Greg Child, Rod Young & Jeremy Boreham, 1978 | 30m | |||
25 | ★★ Sunday Best
Sustained right-hand line starting out of 'Boy Racer'. Half of this pitch was originally aided as 'Syrinx' 'Direct Finish' by Peter McKeand and Gordon Talbett on 26-12-1968 and Chris Baxter had freed the top half of the route from above the crux on 3-12-1977. FA: Kim Carrigan & Mark Moorhead., 1982 | 50m | |||
10 | ★★★ Syrinx Direct
A significantly shorter, easier and more exciting finish than the original. The u-bolt is on Hot Lonely Planet. Pitches 1 - 3. As for Syrinx, belaying to the right of the large ledge, near the painted arrow.
FA: Clive Curson & Steve Greig, 2012 | 130m, 5, 1 | |||
21 | ★ Hot Lonely Planet
The route starts from the big ledge at the end of Syrinx's 3rd pitch, about 7m R of Sunday Best.
FA: Clive Curson & Louise Shepherd, 2013 | 40m, 4 | |||
18 | ★ Trump Tower
A good pitch up the buttress between Syrinx and The Lute. Double ropes are useful.
FA: Keith Lockwood, 13 Set 2017 | 40m, 2 | |||
13 | ★★ Ariadne
Provides a good 4 pitch climb largely independent of Syrinx incorporating Clive’s magnificent traverse on Syrinx Direct (odd name for a traverse). There are only two short sections shared with Syrinx. As a whole, it offers good clean climbing, except for 10 metres of easy, somewhat mossy ground on the second pitch. That, as they say, will clean up with traffic, at which time we can probably add an additional star. Rope-drag can be a big issue, potentially destroying the fun on the traverse and there are many ways to slice and dice the pitch lengths and belays for pitches 2 and 3 to minimise this. This description takes a long, fairly direct second pitch finishing at an uncommon belay point. This allows for a shorter third pitch and the anchors are pretty straightforward so it’s quite an efficient option. Take lots of alpine draws or slings as most runners on pitches 2 and 3 will need a sling. Start at the obvious line 7 metres right of Syrinx, as for The Lute.
FA: | 120m, 4, 1 | |||
13 | ★ The Lute Original
An old climb which is just too vegetated and chossy. Start as for The Lute but at 18m continue up the mossy vegetated line for two 35m pitches to join Syrinx at it's third belay. Finish as for Syrinx. FA: Ian Speedie & Mike Stone, 1965 | 150m, 4 | |||
13 | ★ The Lute
This good, sustained variant on the old route has become popular as a single pitch option. Bridge the deep line 7 metres right of 'Syrinx'. At 18m continue straight up the steep thin line (the original followed the r-hand line). At 35 metres, traverse right below a large balanced boulder to ledge and rap anchor(35m rap). Note: Don't touch the boulder, you should cross below it. It would have been better if the new rap anchors had been placed in the line rather than on the traverse. FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman & Norm Booth, 2006 | 45m | |||
16 | ★ Deathwatch Beetle
1
13
27m
2
16
27m
3
10
35m
4
45m
This fine climb varies considerably from the original climb but is much better. Start as for 'The Lute Direct'.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Ray Lassman (alt). Pitch 3 direct variant : Simon Mentz & Glenn Tempest., 1981 | 130m, 4, 1 | |||
19 | ★ Greasy Burritos
A good pitch. Now has two bolt anchor. FA: David Gallagher & fan club, 1992 | 28m |
1 - 100 di 180 vie.