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Nodi in Virgin Summit Tor

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Nodo
Virgin Summit Tor

From the car park go through the gate and follow the jeep track to the left. After about 500m veer right, uphill onto the ridge track. After another 200m you'll come to a sign saying 'Ridge Track 1.7k'. Follow this for another 50m. 'Virgin Summit Tor' is on the right. The first route you come to will be 'Wuss in Boots'.

23 Wuss in Boots

Excellent obscure and hard at 23 (whoever put it at 22 is on drugs... many very good climbers regularly onsighting 24 have failed to get up this despite multiple attempts). Having said that it climbs exceptionally well when you find the right positions.

The superb looking finger seam up the front of the buttress. Small cams in the good slot between the first 2 BR. 2nd BR is positioned too high so may need clipping with a wire.

DRB anchor shared with Dicky Knee Dihedral.

21 Dicky Knee's Dihedral

2 black hill stars.

Now traverses in from right past a painted FH after the tree stump it started off burnt plus starting holds fell off the original direct start. 2 RB and a couple of wigglies in the excellent corner. DRB anchor

Rebolted including new anchor 12/23. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

25 The Malmsbury Dihedral

3 RB.

Rebolted 12/23. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

25 The Malmsbury Kid

3 RB to DRB anchor.

Rebolted 12/23. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

17 Panda-monium

Good climbing past 2 RB. Note it is easy but runout through the scoop to 2nd RB. Can be climbed direct at top but most step left. DBB with FHs anchor on top.

Rebolted 12/23. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

16 Russell's Megaroute

Carefully up the right side of the huge flake. Slab above passing 2 RB to DRB anchor.

Rebolted 12/23. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

16 Like A Virgin

2m L of Russell's Megaroute and better than it too.

Carefully up the L side of the huge flake and slab with 2 RB to DRB anchor.

Bolted 12/23. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

13 Cushy

10m left of No.11YKK down on ground level. Climb the nice handcrack

M6 No 11 YKK (The Big Zipper)

Very fine fused seam behind a large tree. Goes clean. The bolt mentioned in the previous guide was pulled out be hand apparently (not the only time this has happened at Black Hill by the way) and is not required.

Pulled out by hand on abseil!

18 Sticky Fingers

On the block immediately E from Virgin Summit Tor.

Tutti 11 nodi visualizzati.

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