Nodi in Mt Blackheath Area

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

It is possible that time stopped here in a crusty Chimney-de-Ville in 1968, and was thereafter only viewed from above through the hazy sheen of mirrored Aviators by moustachioed hang glider pilots.

Sport bolted section visible to the left from the lookout. Has a half dozen sport routes in the 22-25 range, reputedly good fun, put up by Lloyd Wishart around 2005. (info from climb.org.au)

Descent gully here.

Start: Corner just right of access gully.

1. 25m corner to trees

2. 25m wide corner

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Start: 2m left of 'Moment of Truth'.

Seam and corner.

Start: 150m right of access gully, marked with faint MOT chip. Small right leaning corner with twin trees on ledge at 25m.

Corner and layback.

Start: 3m right of 'Moment of Truth'. Looks like upper flake could be freed.

Start: Small right leaning corner 40m right of 'Moment of Truth' marked S-F.

1. 10m To block.

2. 17m Right to groove, left to gully.

3. 43m Gully to tree.

Start: Marked S-F Rambly grey corner.

Start: Same as 'Calm'.

To tree on right wall, wall via bolts, right to arete then lookout.

Start: 15m right of S-F.

Flared overhanging offwidth chimney strewn with fragments of cathartic writing on plates thrown off the lookout above "to everyone who has ever stuffed me .. STUFF YOU" etc. Get into it, and get your rage out!

Start: 66m right of 'Calm'. Marked with giant KA. Horribly broken chimney with what looks like better crack to left.

1. 17m (11) yellow corner, traverse left to chimney, right to crack.

2. 13m Chimney and crack

Start: At break in overhang 10m right of 'Knees Also', marked T.

1. 17m Left to tree then easy slab to block.

2. 13m To right.

Start: At break 3m right of 'Troika' marked Q, below obvious lengths of gal chain.

One grade 9 move up break then up easy grade 4 gully and rambly slabs, passing old iron eye bolt on slab and DRB under niche which might be the top of some line of carrots. Tree belay with superlative 180 degree views of cliffs from ZigZag to Shipley and the valley below.

Old Description

1. 14m Crack, traverse left and up to tree.

2. 16m right leading chimney.

Rock platform and shared tree/block belay for T, Q and U 50m down from lookout at -33.641613, 150.244933. DRB and ancient iron ring 4m below.

Start: 3m right of 'Quadrill' at break in overhang marked Q.

1. 16m Through break, right and back left to piton belay.

2. 14m Right up bulge

Start: Chimney 33m right of 'Us'.

1. 20m chimney, squeeze right to ledge of piton.

2. 6m Up and out of chimney.

Start: Base of chimney at head of gully 33m right of 'Bottle Chimney'.

1. 20m Chimney to chock.

2. 10m up to roof, traverse right, big chockstone to tree.

Start: At base of chimney 13 right of 'Tanglefoot'.

1. 13m chimney to tree.

2. 17m gully then left and up easy mossy corner.

3. 13m Easy chimney.

Start: Small bluff 6m right of 'Clam'

1. 20m crack, traverse left and up bulge

2. 13m 'Clam' P2.

Start: 40m right of 'Knees As Well'

1. Arete.

"Start at crack"

Chimney

Crack in corner.

Start: Yellow corner crack.

1. 15m To big boulder.

2. 30m corner to small ledge, traverse left to gully.

3. 10m Chimney

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Start: 300m right of 'Solo Climb' at huge right angled corner with chimney in right wall.

1. 23m Chimney to tree.

2. 20m Chimney to tree.

[No you are not not reading double - Ed.]

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Start: Middle of giant recess in small corner 100m right of 'Knees'

1. 13m Corner and piton.

2. 6m Corner and traverse left to tree.

3. 20m left to arete and tree.

4. 17m Right and up overhang.

This is some way south of the lookout, about here -33.645662, 150.244035

[Surely this old Ewbank aid route deserves to be freed? - Ed.]

Start: Sweeping recessed overhang 100m right of 'Windy'

1. 33m Corner and tree over bulge, crack to roof, along wall to ledge.

2. 10m "Up"

This is the north facing orange walls on 'Mt Blackheath', about 500m east of the hang glider ramp. If not for the 10m band of overhung vegetation for the first 10m off the ground, it'd be quite ok.

Long wall - starts easily enough for about 15m then cranks up into reachy orange wall and pumpy finish. There is a chain on the flat rock at top that can be used to rap off with an 80m rope. 18ish draws.

A mix of water-polished "slab" and big grain crimpy wall climbing. Finishes with a little wave of steepness and mantle. To access fix a rope off trees and rap 45m down to large vegetated ledge (safe to walk around unroped). This is the right of the two bolted routes starting off this ledge. Two FHs to begin then the rest is u-bolts. Long draws, and a proper single length sling on the 10th bolt just after the flake section reduces ropedrag.

Similar to Forever War but steeper, pumpier and with an easier mantle finish. Rap in as for Forever War. This is the left route off the ledge. Stick-clip first bolt - and take care getting to 2nd bolt. At the 10th bolt drop down a move and traverse right along break for a metre then up (doing it direct is at least 2 grades harder).

Small corner, a couple of rusty carrots and an old double bolt belay with white sling halfway up wall. If you know more info please add! Topo line is a guess.

Carrots visible on orange wall up high. Not sure where this starts. If you know more info please add it!

Steep arete to the right of Blistering - overhangs about 4m. 3 star climbing but faff hanging belay knocks off a star. Find a single Ubolt & a FH above a black funnel (top of Blistering). Fix a rope and rap down - clipping a couple of bolts on the way down to hanging belay stance above vegetation.

The steep corner crack up the middle of the North-facing orange walls, 300m E of Blackheath Lookout. Rap in to semi-hanging trad stance above vegetation.

Packed full of fun from start to finish. Top of route is GPS -33.6413, 150.2514 - look for large cairn about 10m back from cliff edge - then walk towards cliff edge to find two Ubolts on shelf. Fix rap rope (not possible to pull down) and rap down ramp and then down orange wall. Clip a couple of bolts on the way to stay connected to cliff. Belay is a small cave about 15m above the ground - it's semi hanging when belaying but ok to sit down in between shots. Best to put on draws on as you rap as some clips are a bit tricky on lead. Route climbs a series of reachy shelves and edges - then traverse right a few metres then one of the best moves ever - the crucifix pocket dyno. Finish up sustained orange face.

The finger-crack corner in orange rock in the lower cliffband, about 70m R of and below Blistering. Move R around roof and up crack above.

Rarely visited trad/mixed crag with easy access and great in winter.

Big Top duplicate route to be deleted

Most of the crag is on Crown Reserve land, except the far northern end, and the road north of the cattle grid. Respect both government regulations and private property to ensure ongoing cliff access and good relations between climbers and land managers.

Warning A massive (2020?) rockfall has fallen down the corner right of this wall.

Note: This is not the route of the same name at Cosmic County.

Very impressive buttress.

Start: Marked HPD just left of red wall and major corner.

1. (15m) Climb wall between crack and arête to good ledge and belay.

2. (30m) Pull with difficulty through overhang moving left then right to gain base of buttress. Up buttress with 4 or 5 BRs (3 rusty FH visible)

Warning Fresh rockfall smashed down nearby so unwise to ground-up until inspected from above.

Soaring slightly-vegetated off-width corner 4m right of High Plains Drifter.

A wall followed by a crack in the higher buttress.

Start: 35 metres right of High Plains Drifter on left hand side of ledge above the track, marked I with an angled up right arrow.

1. (17m) Up scoopy wall passing a drilled in baby angle runner. Fine groove leads left around the arête to belay at base of crack.

2. (18m) Up crack moving right at half height into parallel crack. Follow this to top.

Scrubby crack.

Most of the crag is on Crown Reserve land, except the far northern end, and the road north of the cattle grid. Respect both government regulations and private property to ensure ongoing cliff access and good relations between climbers and land managers.

Most of the crag is on Crown Reserve land, except the far northern end, and the road north of the cattle grid. Respect both government regulations and private property to ensure ongoing cliff access and good relations between climbers and land managers.

Start marked HWS / AMB below SS FH on same ledge as AMB, although climb may start from ground as described below. One old rusty bracket and 2 SS FH visible on grey slab above initials.

1. Layback to ledge via BR

2. Left up slab via 2 BR to BB on ledge

3. Blind corner 2 BRs

Scramble up right near the Isis mark past 5m of horrid vegetation, or better still send up a willing assistant, to the pleasant starting ledge -33.64125, 150.25595.

Start marked HWS / AMB below SS FH.

Climb may trend right up somewhat vegetated wide corner.

Access track here.

Marked "GC/A". Under the thick ferns is a crack in a slabby right-facing corner. Not climbable in current condition and probably best left alone.

Climb ferny crack of Grandpa Chook for about 7m then traverse right to arete (3 BRs) to break, 2 aid pitons then easily to bollard and piton belay on right.

Several sets of side-by-side and other single carrots visible from above start.

Looks very freeable - but description says aid. The direct start looks cleaner and better and is marked "SCA" - apparently Silver City Express.

Nice initial wall.

Start: Marked SCE

1. Up slightly left to gain the main wall then straight up it past 3 BR’s to bushy ledge below sloping bulge. Piton (in place) used to pull over bulge to another in situ peg runner. Up wall above to convenient ledge or tree. - K. Bell

Good climbing up a spectacular curving orange corner. A little vegetated at the bottom but it does not affect the climbing.

Start: Marked P, 4m right of Silver City Express.

1. (35m) Pull over bulge and move left up wall towards corner above the bushes. Follow the corner with increasing difficulty. Exit right to single BB which can be reinforced by a 3.5/4.0 cam above.

Delicate grey wall with some bolts but mostly on cams and stoppers. Belay as for Polybius.

Start: Marked P, same as Polybius.

1. Over bulge and up wall to BR. Move left past bolt then diagonally right into middle of the wall and up to another BR. Hard blank section above to a narrow horizontal slot. Over this to another BR then slabby ground leads to belay shared with Polybius and On Any Sunday.

Blunt arête to the right of Kerisal on trad pro. Take range of stoppers and cams. A cam larger than a #4 can be considered essential.

Start: Marked OS, 1m right of Polybius.

1. Up groove then move right to bulge below blunt arete. Through bulge then follow arête to horizontal break. Belay

Next 5 routes are 15m right. Head around crumbling shale ledge, or down and to right past seasonal soak via ferns and swordgrass.

Start: Marked SS/H/J, same as Sargasso Sea, or from the right end of the shale ledge at obvious cracks that head out to the right of the end of the roof above.

1. Step left onto obvious arête and follow it to a good ledge shared by Sargasso Sea, Jericho and El Desperado. Top run out, take a range of cams to reinforce the belay.

First attempt to crack the Sargasso Sea wall.

Start: Marked SS/H/J, same as Sargasso Sea.

1. (40m) Up short groove to ledge and move left. In the middle of the ledge take a rising traverse towards the obvious arête. Up it to belay as for Sargasso Sea.

A great wall and slab pitch. So named because the wall was initially very mossy. Take 1.0 to 1.5 cams to augment the belay.

Start: Marked SS/H/J about 5m right of the drop down from the traverse around from On Any Sunday, and 3m left of El Desperado.

Up short groove to ledge and the undercut blunt arête. Climb this and the orange slab above to an obvious bulge. Take this on its right to gain a horizontal break. Move left along this then climb up to a BR. Diagonally left for a few moves then up right to another BR. Directly up to a good resting spot and BR. Climb the wall and slab above either side of the bolt to a good ledge and belay (22). Alternatively, move left to the arête and follow it to the top (21). The first ascent went directly above the bolt. A #1, #3.5 and #4 cam are essential on this pitch. Take a range of stoppers.

Ascends the thin corner crack that is capped by a spectacular curving roof. Probably the first climb in the area. Start: Marked ED, 3m right of Sargasso Sea.

Up the thin corner, harder than it looks but gets easier about half height below the horizontal break. At the break swing out left and follow the arching wide crack to the Sargasso Sea belay.

Next 3 routes are on ledge part of the way up 'Jericho' (maybe El Desperado instead?) just before it curves to the left.

Crack, traverse then unusual corner crack. Follow El Desperado until slightly above the BR on right wall. Step right and diagonally across and up to crooked corner crack. Follow this to the top.

Direct and delicate wall climbing.

Start: Marked SOTB, 1m right of El Desperado at ground level (not the high ledge part way up El Desporado)

Directly up wall to bolt above small ledge. Easier up to break. Up through break right of obvious arête. Continue through scoop to the steep final wall (bolts and cam runners). Up the wall to top passing an in situ peg runner.

Great climbing above the leftward leaning arête capping the roof of El Desperado. As for South of the Border to horizontal break. Through this and move left climbing just above the obvious arête above El Desperado (BR’s) onto wall above. Up and diagonally left to the obvious curving crack and follow this to the top.

Back to track level

Start: Marked BA.

Rambly gully.

Start: 2m right of Bitter Aloes on other side of gully.

May have been marked LD?

Don't confuse with Pussy Galore climbed later at the James Bond area.

Vegetated start but rock and moves above are good though a bit run-out.

Start: Marked F, 2m right of Pussy Galore.

Up slab past trees to steep wall and double bolt runner (a second bolt was added by somebody on a subsequent ascent), pull onto slab and move up past large tree to the right of a blunt arête. Up this to ramp, move up and right to good ledge below final short wall. Up this (BR) to top.

At least five BRs up the grey slab and arete left of corner up high. FA unknown

A delicate slab leading up to corner.

Start: Marked J, 8m right of Felix.

1. (35m) Up slab to roof, move left and onto slab above. Follow this to obvious corner crack. Up this to exit left onto the Felix buttress. Tree belay. - K.Bell

Start: Same as Jokerman.

Short somewhat vegetated corner. Start not marked.

Eroded wall right of twin cracks. Start: Middle of wall with twin outcrops at base. Faintly marked "BB"

1. 15m Up through scoops with peg runner to bulge (BR). Through it to another smaller bulge. Up through it to gain ledge with trees.

2. 15m Left arete and wall with 5 bolts. Difficult start using BR for aid then climb easily to top.

Two glue in BRs on arete 5m left of Hi Tension. Not sure if it has an indepedant finish? Details unknown.

Wanders through some steep territory.

Start: Marked HT, in corner with a crack on its right.

1. (15m) Up corner then right left along diagonal crack. Pull over bulge to horizontal break – belay.

2. (30m) Up wall right of arête past BR. From the ground two rusty FHs are visible on this top pitch.

Listed in Harry Luxford's guide as P? FA please rename and claim.

Start: Marked P, 0.5m right of Hi Tension.

Short corner followed by longer corner.

A corner followed by a sweeping traverse across a wall.

Start: Marked HT, corner as for Hi Tension.

1. (10m) Up corner to tree belay.

2. (30m) Move right onto slabby wall. Tap across it taking a diagonal route towards arête. Up wall to the left of arête to top.

Major bolted arete. Bolts are all rusty FHs. Faintly marked "H" 3m left of Senile Dementia.

1. (20m) Balancy first move to pocket then left onto arete (FH) and up to ledge (double FH).

2. (30m) Up wall past bolt to bulge, left around it to rampy groove then slab above to BR. Continue up arête to top. - K.Bell

Crack and flake followed by a steep wall. Steep and run-out wall to finish.

Start: Marked SD/JB, same as Senile Dementia.

1. (40m) Climb corner to flake then out right under flake until it runs out into wall. Move up and right to BR (hard to clip) then up and left through bulge onto steep wall. Up the wall to a strange pocket taking a 1.5/2.0 cam then move right and up to BR. Up wall above to ledge. Climb remaining wall to top – tree belay.

Good looking corner but vegetated again. Was cleaned before climbing.

Start: Marked SD/JB

1. (40m) Follow corner crack to top – tree belay.

8m right. Marked BAU. Undercut start then long wall above with lots of bolts.

Glue in carrots and FHs up the lower section of the arete of High Riser. Traverses in from the right to start. At least five bolts visible from the ground. May be entirely independent of High Riser?

Another nice arête.

Start: At the base of a narrow gully 15 metres right of Business as Usual.

1. (15m) Up the crack at bottom of gully then follow ramp out left past steepening rock to good ledge at the base of the wall.

2. (25m) Up wall moving right to arête, follow it to the top. - K.Bell

High Riser Variant

Climb directly up wall above first belay. FA: Keith Bell, Kevin Bell​​​​​, 1980’s.

A sharp little wall.

Start: Gully beside High Riser.

1. Climb the gully beside High Riser to a narrowing chimney with ledge out to the left. Climb onto ledge and follow it to a fixed peg and hanging belay.

2. (30m) Climb above piton to BR above ledge, move right and up to another BR. Continue up the wall to another BR. Up steepening wall to a break on the left, cam runner. Move slightly right then up through a bulge to BR with easier ground above. - K. Bell

Climbed on News Years Day and the name reflects the condition of the first ascentionists as well as the climb. Start. Keep following the ramp above Ferny Chimney to the top of block. Climb starts off its left hand side.

1. 20 Straight up the obvious crack.

Classic old chimney groove though steep in places. Start: Follow the ramp left of ‘The Square’ up to marked overhanging start behind tree.

1. 30 Climb overhang into the gully and follow it to the top.

Faintly marked "A" at twin cracks above horizontal tree. Shares its first pitch with The Square.

1. 15m Up first pitch as for ‘The Square’ then move left along ledge to below hollow.

2. 25m Steep moves to start past bolt runner. Up slab to hollow taking it on its left. Climb wall above moving slightly left to top.

Good looking crack followed by a chimney. ("Thin crack right of A" in previous guide)

Start: At crack through a red wall marked by a chipped square.

1. (15m) Climb crack to good ledge and belay at base of corner/chimney.

2. (35m) Climb strenuous overhanging crack into chimney then up chimney behind to the top. - K. Bell

FA unknown but climbed by Keith Bell and Greg Mortimer in 1972.

Ringbolted wall 8m right of A. FA info unknown

Short square cut arete just before crag disintegrates. Start on right and swing around left. Two BRs and cams.

Just right of Talking with Your Mouth the cliffline takes a major turn - from North-East to North-West. There is evidence of a semi-recent large rockfall and landslide here. The first three routes are located on a higher ledge system - to access, head north, then scramble up about 25m above the rockfall. Take care and use tree belay at base of corner.