Grado | Via | Stile equipaggiamento | Qualità | Arrampicatore | Data | |||
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Memory Lane | ||||||||
17 | ★★ Penney Ante | 25m | ★★ Molto buona | Ven 22 Gen 2016 | ||||
Very underrated, first part is an easy scramble, then a great lay back all the way up
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17 | ★★ Penney Ante | 25m | ★ Buona | Gio 25 Ott 2012 | ||||
With Laura and Megan. Hot sun and ok easier climbing, but my head wasn't in the game.
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22 | ★★ Moonage Daydream - con Adam Mujaj | 30m, 6 | ★★ Molto buona | Sab 13 Mag 2017 | ||||
The crux reach was just a bit too much for my height, other than that it was a good route.
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22 | ★★ Moonage Daydream - con grace | 30m, 6 | ★★ Molto buona | Sab 16 Set 2017 | ||||
Interesting climbing, crux felt very reachy.
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22 | ★★ Moonage Daydream - con cedric, Ben Taylor, Jeh C | 30m, 6 | ★★ Molto buona | Lun 3 Ott 2022 | ||||
Crux is easier to move through if I had 2cm more reach. Shortie's will have a crimping challenge
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22 | FA ★★ Moonage Daydream | 30m, 6 | Mar 13 Apr 2010 | |||||
LED with Ant 1980
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22 | ★★ Moonage Daydream - con Aurora Pandora | 30m, 6 | Sab 18 Mag 2024 | |||||
where's the 'day flash' tick type?
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22 | ★★ Moonage Daydream - con Aurora Pandora | 30m, 6 | Sab 18 Mag 2024 | |||||
woah. another cosmic route i have looked at numerous times, thought about, got scared, needed to poop, pooped, came back, and decided to go home. so i cast my silly ethics aside and tried some headpointing! its so fun! makes the send attempt waaaaay less stressful. was also good to see there is good gear in the flake, carrots at cruxes, and easier climbing where it seems run out. today was a dream come true trying to put this together!
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24 | ★★ Highlites | 27m, 8 | ★★ Molto buona | Dom 30 Lug 2017 | ||||
Not quite the warm down I was looking for but a sick route in its own right. Pumpy open hander bottom half, crimpy foot free traverse middle then engaging top. I was working hard.
Thanx for the rebolt, Evan??
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24 | ★★ Highlites - con grace | 27m, 8 | ★★ Molto buona | Sab 16 Set 2017 | ||||
tough start to sustained climbing above. This route was a lot better than i was expecting it to be.
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13 18 | ★★ TZ Direct Start | 30m | ★★ Molto buona | Mar 13 Apr 2010 | ||||
very harry!
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13 | ★★ TZ Direct Start | 30m | ★ Buona | Dom 16 Set 2012 | ||||
A good start to TZ. Probably harder than 13 though. Some choss and a bit of vegetation.
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18 | ★★ TZ Direct Start - con Ben Hanley | 30m | ★★ Molto buona | Dom 31 Mag 2020 | ||||
Seconding Ben, fun and consistent!
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18 | ★★ TZ Direct Start - con Aurora Pandora | 30m | Mer 22 Mag 2024 | |||||
Ah Cosmic, the 'Cathedral of the Mountains'
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18 | ★★ TZ Direct Start - con Grace Mackie | 30m | ★★★ Classica | Dom 31 Mag 2020 | ||||
Massively under-rated climb!
Sustained climbing at the grade on bomber gear the whole way. Interesting and varied climbing throughout. |
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18 | ★★ TZ Direct Start - con Johan Løvoll Ødegaard | 30m | ★★ Molto buona | Dom 11 Dic 2022 | ||||
Came in with high hopes, was a killer route, loved the finger crack, still on the search for that pure finger crack where you only need jams, another epic day, keeps getting better and better, go cosmic county! Sick crag
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18 | ★★ TZ Direct Start - con Andrew Durrer, Connor Browne, Eirik Reiestad | 30m | Mar 13 Dic 2022 | |||||
Cool climb and definitely not as scary as it looks! Some bomber nuts and hexes as well as cams 0.5-4.
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18 | ★★ TZ Direct Start - con Aurora Pandora | 30m | Sab 18 Mag 2024 | |||||
good to jump on something new (and not warm up on interstate yet again!) - direct start seems the only way to go and gives the climb a lot more to chew on. nearly goofed it at the crux placing cams in bluies rock and failing to understand how to do so
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18 | ★★ TZ Direct Start | 30m | ★★★ Classica | Dom 19 Lug 2020 | ||||
Pretty stoked to get this, feels like a step up. Not so stoked to not find any sunglasses up there 🙃
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18 | ★★ TZ Direct Start - con Grace Mackie, Ben Hanley | 30m | ★★★ Classica | Lun 3 Ago 2020 | ||||
Back for the tick. A great route.
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18 | ★★ TZ Direct Start - con Ben Hanley, Daniel Butler | 30m | ★★ Molto buona | Lun 3 Ago 2020 | ||||
Had to come back and lead it for myself after seconding Ben Hanley last time, super enjoyable
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18 | ★★ TZ Direct Start - con Jake Delaney | 30m | ★★ Molto buona | Mer 22 Mag 2024 | ||||
Great warm up, this deserve more attention, real good from top to bottom
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18 | ★★ TZ Direct Start - con Maureen | 30m | ★★★ Classica | Dom 5 Lug 2020 | ||||
Still can't climb finger cracks, pumped out on the steep bit near the top. Such a nice line.
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18 | ★★ TZ Direct Start | 30m | ★★ Molto buona | Dom 11 Apr 2021 | ||||
Need to try this when I learn how ton ringlock. Although there are plenty of jugs to use instead of thin crack
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18 | ★★ TZ Direct Start - con Marco de Jongh | 30m | ★★★ Classica | Lun 12 Apr 2021 | ||||
A beautiful route, all was fine until the top, when I realized my finger crack techniques are nonexistant. A good learning, very keen to hone that skill and come back for this
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18 | ★★ TZ | 30m | ★★ Molto buona | Ven 22 Gen 2016 | ||||
Direct start was a good way to get into the loose hand crack above, nice long climb
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18 | ★★ TZ - con Nicola Tan | 30m | ★★★ Classica | Lun 18 Set 2017 | ||||
did the direct start. awesome climb! suprisingly pumpy. finger crack can be mostly avoided with good crimps.
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18 | ★★ TZ | 30m | ★ Buona | Sab 21 Nov 2009 | ||||
Via the direct start. Pleasant and well protected
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18 | ★★ TZ | 30m | ★★ Molto buona | Dom 16 Set 2012 | ||||
Via the Direct Start. Good climbing for the grade, with a spicy finish to keep it interesting. Shame about the choss and vegetation.
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19 | ★★ TZ - con Eamonn | 30m | ★★ Molto buona | Dom 2 Ott 2016 | ||||
Thought it was tougher than Baird's
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18 | ★★ TZ - con Isabella Bradley | 30m | ★★ Molto buona | Dom 20 Ago 2017 | ||||
Fun ferny-climb with hands in the craaack!
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18 | ★★ TZ | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Ven 22 Giu 2018 | ||||
Why is this underrated? Really nice climbing, a classic of the grade. Look for the large marking TZDS. There is another marking for tz at some chossy boulder lower and 10m to the left
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18 | ★★ TZ | 30m | ★★ Molto buona | Sab 20 Giu 2020 | ||||
Excellent fun corner and crack
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18 | ★★ TZ | 30m | ★ Buona | Dom 27 Mar 2005 | ||||
Not bad. Led in 1 pitch from ground. easy walk off
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18 | ★★ TZ - con Bonnie | 30m | Dom 9 Apr 2023 | |||||
Quite nice once again
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18 | ★★ TZ | 30m | ★★ Molto buona | Ven 22 Gen 2016 | ||||
Great little crack, worth more than one star in my opinion.
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18 | ★★ TZ - con Sami | 30m | ★★ Molto buona | Dom 2 Ott 2016 | ||||
A bit of practice for the finger jams! Was in the full sun, so probably didn't help but found the top section quite tricky to get solid jams. Bumped a lot of gear up, but pumped out near the top while trying to place a cam. Down-climbed to last piece and took a rest. Even after the crack, still sustained. Misread the route and did some desperate moves at the top!
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18 | ★★ TZ - con Dane Evans | 30m | Dom 9 Apr 2023 | |||||
poor strategy and headspace
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15 14 | Jitterbug | 20m | Sab 14 Mag 2022 | |||||
Quite vegetated, not that good unless you're looking for that kind of thing. Bit hard for the grade but I did wander off a bit. Two small trees at top for anchor, backed up with cams further back. Would recommend a short static or long cord to build quality anchor. Rap off large tree to left or bolts to right.
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14 | Jitterbug | 20m | Pessima | Sab 14 Mag 2022 | ||||
lots of vegetation after the chimney and some vertical bush bashing halfway. somehow got up without crack climbing
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12 | Doodle Bug | 15m | Media | Gio 11 Mag 2017 | ||||
Quite the vegetated chossfest.
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12 | Doodle Bug - con Chanté Fisk | 15m | ★ Buona | Ven 4 Dic 2020 | ||||
Come for the grade, stay for the second half of the climb. Battle through the bush to reach a very satisfying second half crack.
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14 12 | Doodle Bug | 15m | Sab 14 Mag 2022 | |||||
Better than jitterbug, vegetated and unpleasant down low but second half is cool. Large tree at top. Might be able to use a 5 or 6 Cam on this.
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19 19 R | ★★ Colostomy Corner - con cedric, Ben Taylor, Jeh C | 55m | ★★ Molto buona | Lun 3 Ott 2022 | ||||
Hard work to protect and scary on lead. Would have felt better with softer shoes. Was wearing the crack boots.
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14 | ★ Blondie | 37m | ★ Buona | Dom 19 Giu 2005 | ||||
loose blocks in chimney
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14 | ★ Blondie - con Maureen | 37m | ★ Buona | Dom 5 Lug 2020 | ||||
If you like chimneys this is actually kinda fun. Occasional gear. Thoughtful vegetation avoidance.
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14 | ★ Blondie | 37m | ★ Buona | Dom 13 Giu 2021 | ||||
Easy awkwardness to finish the day. Engaging mix of chimney, choss, finger locks and jams in between veg and loose chockstones, pro not bad. Enjoyable for aspiring choss heads
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21 | ★★★ Barbarossa | 35m | ★★ Molto buona | Lun 9 Apr 2012 | ||||
It was a while ago but I remember turning this into an epic somehow.
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21 | ★★★ Barbarossa - con Ben Hanley | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Dom 7 Giu 2020 | ||||
Seems to get better every time. Can comfortably be done without any gear, except for a thread at the start now the bolt is gone.
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21 | ★★★ Barbarossa | 35m | ★★★ Classica | Ven 14 Mag 2004 | ||||
crimpy goodness after airy traverse
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21 | ★★★ Barbarossa | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Dom 16 Set 2012 | ||||
Followed Paul up at the end of the day.
Some walls are just made for climbing and this is one of them, perfect holds the whole way on bomber rock.
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21 | ★★★ Barbarossa - con Tom Breadon | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Dom 2 Ott 2016 | ||||
This is now a sport route with lots of carrots.
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21 | ★★★ Barbarossa - con Al Bradley | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Gio 6 Giu 2019 | ||||
First time seconding, scary and a bit dangerous traversing to the bolt with the retro gone. Maybe a carrot would make the ethics police happy? Great climb though, very sustained.
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21 | ★★★ Barbarossa - con Grace Mackie | 35m | ★★★ Classica | Dom 7 Giu 2020 | ||||
the start traverse seems a lot more scary now that the bolt has been chopped. The second is very well protected if climbing on double ropes.
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21 | ★★★ Barbarossa | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Sab 15 Mag 2004 | ||||
sustained pleasure
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21 | ★★★ Barbarossa | 35m | ★★★ Classica | Sab 22 Set 2007 | ||||
Super all the way, face climbing at it's best
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21 | ★★★ Barbarossa | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classica | 1990 | ||||
Fantastic! Best 21 at the crag!
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21 | ★★★ Barbarossa | 35m | Mar 13 Apr 2010 | |||||
with Micky B
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21 | ★★★ Barbarossa | 35m | ★★★ Classica | Dom 16 Set 2012 | ||||
End of day awesomeness. After the semi-sketchy traverse (thread and 0.4 cam to protect), this climb is a piece of old-school brilliance. MUCH better than Building a Better Mouse Trap. The first half is thin, high-stepping crimpy goodness, and the second half is interesting, obscure moves between jugs and through roofs. In it's entirety its unerringly interesting. Rope drag is a real problem (even with long slings on the appropriate draws). A 70m rope JUST reaches the ground on rap.
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21 | ★★★ Barbarossa | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Sab 3 Ago 2013 | ||||
Absolute stunner! Classis Blueys climbing, crimping your way up! The death traverse with no pro is enjoyable once you get your head in the right space!
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21 | ★★★ Barbarossa | 35m | ★★★ Classica | Dom 26 Giu 2016 | ||||
Unreal climbing up and impressive face. Doesn't get much better than this for the grade. Would of only been nicer if it wasnt carrots that were always just out of reach.
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21 | ★★★ Barbarossa - con Vanessa | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Dom 21 Ago 2016 | ||||
This was just ace! Tricky down low and awesome the whole way. So good at the grade!
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21 | ★★★ Barbarossa - con Che | 35m | ★★★ Classica | Mar 15 Nov 2016 | ||||
Bloody serious business old school crimpin'. I couldn't tell you the beta for a single move, but climb upwards to glory. Managed to get up and down on a single 60 using rope extension magic, biner blocking and a grigri.
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21 | ★★★ Barbarossa - con Tom Collins | 35m | ★★ Molto buona | Sab 17 Giu 2017 | ||||
good climbing, maybe a bit soft for the grade?
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21 | ★★★ Barbarossa - con Jason Lammers | 35m | ★★★ Classica | Sab 22 Lug 2017 | ||||
Been on the bucket list for a long time and it didn't disappoint. Classic of the grade.
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21 | ★★★ Barbarossa | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Dom 30 Lug 2017 | ||||
Done without clipping the new first ring which was exciting. A pretty hard nice over the lip to start the climb but what follows is varied technical sport climbing that is just magic. Thoroughly enjoyed the last third and variety of moves and holds
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21 | ★★★ Barbarossa - con Dan | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Dom 17 Set 2017 | ||||
Probably the best 21 I've done.
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21 | ★★★ Barbarossa - con Stu Dobbie | 35m | ★★★ Classica | Dom 4 Feb 2018 | ||||
Couple of draws on the first hangers but other than that an onsight. Stupid bolting, you had to work hard for nearly every clip.
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21 | ★★★ Barbarossa - con Paul Frothy Thomson | 35m | ★★★ Classica | Sab 11 Ago 2018 | ||||
Absolutely nails. So many of the carrots are tediously hard to clip if you're short. Super stoked to fight my way up this for the onsight, especially as i was kind of expecting a relatively relaxed wander up a classic 21. Silly me underestimating an old school County classic!
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21 | ★★★ Barbarossa - con Rachael Brock | 35m | ★★★ Classica | Sab 1 Mag 2021 | ||||
Sustained and thin, a nice climber loaned me some bolt plates so I didn’t need to rely on nuts!
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21 | ★★★ Barbarossa - con Matt King | 50m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Mer 3 Ago 2022 | ||||
Finished up the worthless bit of 17 at the top to make this one big mega pitch. Incredible and incredibly sustained face climbing. Climbed the traverse at the start leading on a locker with an 8 tied to the "bottom" end of the rope, then dropped this once I had a cam in at the end of the traverse.
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21 | ★★★ Barbarossa | 35m | ★★ Molto buona | Sab 28 Ott 2023 | ||||
Will remember this one as it was quite full on for
Me today:)
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21 | ★★★ Barbarossa | 35m | ★★ Molto buona | Sab 15 Mag 2004 | ||||
Very nice climb, it's all there
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21 | ★★★ Barbarossa - con Adam Mujaj | 35m | ★★★ Classica | Sab 13 Mag 2017 | ||||
Great route, it just sustained the pump throughout with out any particularly hard moves. Loved the double kneebar close to the top for a rest. Be a bit cautious when lowering, on my 60m even with the first bolt unclipped we had to play a few games to get to the ground.
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21 | ★★★ Barbarossa - con Nick Morgan | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Dom 21 Mag 2017 | ||||
Awesome face climbing! I tied into both rope ends and dropped the end clipped to the ring after reaching the ledge after the traverse. Use a finger size cam or wire at the ledge and maybe a #1 half way up.
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21 | ★★★ Barbarossa | 35m | ★★★ Classica | Dom 6 Set 2020 | ||||
Theme of the route: Crank on crimps followed by some fancy footwork and then climb into a good rest. Repeat x 8.
Two out of the ordinary tatics used, why become a strong climber when you can become a smart climber (or a cheater depends how puristic your attitude is):
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21 | ★★★ Barbarossa | 50m | Mer 3 Ago 2022 | |||||
Linked both pitches
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21 | ★★★ Barbarossa - con Kelly | 35m | Lun 8 Mag 2023 | |||||
Scary traverse climbs better than it looks!
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21 | ★★★ Barbarossa - con Sam Clark | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Sab 27 Ago 2016 | ||||
Brilliant. Definitely one of my favourite 21s
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21 | ★★★ Barbarossa | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Ven 28 Ago 2020 | ||||
Would be logging an onsight if I didn’t freak out on the traverse at the thread. This traverse can be quite dangerous, especially for low ape index people. A bolt slightly to the right of the thread could one day save someone’s ankles.
Rest of the climb is top quality, hard move to get out of the cave at the first bolt, and a few thin sections on the first half but gets easier near the top. I don’t think there is any need to bring cams, all well protected by the carrots, tho some of them might make you work an extra move to reach. |
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21 | ★★★ Barbarossa - con Tom Bes | 35m | Dom 18 Giu 2023 | |||||
wow what a write up for that other climb - this climb was great and I was stoked to have gotten it.
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21 | ★★★ Barbarossa - con Drew Henman | 35m | ★★★ Classica | Sab 30 Mag 2020 | ||||
Climbed this 25 odd years ago and at the time blew my mind as a new aspiring Blueys climber. still just as great and very happy to get it clean. Climbed after Drew, gear pre placed
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21 | ★★★ Barbarossa | 35m | Sab 12 Nov 2011 | |||||
batman start to avoid traverse. Rested and got pulled up the crux move. awesome climb - thin and long.
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21 | ★★★ Barbarossa | 35m | Dom 25 Ago 2013 | |||||
great wall climbing. Had a rest mid-way up the wall, but clean otherwise. Bolts are in pretty good condition for 30 year old carrots.
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21 | ★★★ Barbarossa - con David de Miguel, Luke C, Greg Blachon, Eson | 35m | ★★ Molto buona | Lun 30 Mag 2022 | ||||
What a route, got my ass kicked on it. Scary traverse leading to a pretty intense face climb for the grade.last climb of the weekend, Will have to come back for it.
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21 | ★★★ Barbarossa - con Patrick Chambers | 35m | Lun 13 Giu 2022 | |||||
glad i found the thread! but then got pumped out of my mind. pretty sure my love of 12 metre sydney routes is not doing wonders for my endurance
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21 ~22 | ★★★ Barbarossa - con Pedro Rocha, Hampus Holmberg, Lee Prescott | 35m | ★★ Molto buona | Ven 16 Dic 2022 | ||||
Felt much harder then some 24s I’ve pulled on, traverse is burly but the thin face on bolt plates makes it much harder than it should be. Maybe it’s just my beta that’s the issue though.
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21 | ★★★ Barbarossa - con Gee Rad | 35m | ★★★ Classica | Lun 22 Mag 2017 | ||||
NOT the best warm-up when you've hardly climbed at all for the past month. Wowsa...got me mega pumped & I took a flyer from the 4th carrot. Exciting climbing.
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21 | ★★★ Barbarossa - con Bruno Martins, Luke C | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Dom 29 Mag 2022 | ||||
Need to come back and work on this one properly.
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21 | ★★★ Barbarossa - con bisho | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classica | Dom 31 Mag 2020 | ||||
Ran out of juice. Working for the gear sucks. Amazing climbing.
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19 | ★★ The Skull-faced Omnibus - con Ryan Armstrong | 27m | ★★ Molto buona | Sab 27 Giu 2020 | ||||
Very tricky transition through the off width to gain the crack on the face.
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14 14 R | Phoenix | 30m | Pessima | Dom 19 Giu 2005 | ||||
over grown
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15 | ★ Waglands Effort | 35m | Media | Sab 15 Mag 2004 | ||||
Nothing special
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15 | ★ Waglands Effort | 35m | ★ Buona | Dom 17 Feb 2008 | ||||
nothin
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15 | ★ Waglands Effort | 35m | Media | Dom 17 Feb 2008 | ||||
worth a climb
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15 | ★ Waglands Effort | 35m | Media | Sab 15 Mag 2004 | ||||
You have to warm up
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15 | ★ Waglands Effort | 35m | ★ Buona | Sab 14 Gen 2017 | ||||
A bit terrifying
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15 | ★ Waglands Effort | 35m | ★★ Molto buona | Lun 1 Ott 2018 | ||||
An epic case study of how one can f**k up rope drag on double ropes. 5m from the anchor, it got so bad that I had to make a belay of my lucky microcam (has saved me life once before) and a tiny nut.
Try not to be tempted to hit the arete too early, before you get to the great ledge. Fun in the future, scary in the present. |
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15 | ★ Waglands Effort | 35m | ★ Buona | Dom 17 Feb 2008 | ||||
O.K
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20 | ★★ Ghost Riders in the Sky | 45m | ★★ Molto buona | Gio 10 Lug 2003 | ||||
hard start, steep
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